I'm ok with engine, exhaust, some road/wind noise.. it's interior rattling and creaking noise i cannot stand

Based on driving a borrowed new Civic turbo for a few days and sitting in a few friends HRV, I find the interior quality is better compared to my H.City (already CTL), H. Civic (7th), H.Accord (8th)

Long term remain to be seen.

material, fit and finish, feel to the touch, how it looks, etc.

Quality is a subjective term after all.

took me less than a minute to google it. The rating is good, just google it.

Any updates ? You went SC to fix it already ?

Probably nothing, its a matter of luck already.

Actually car electronics need to pass seriously stringent test for robustness and reliability, of course not to say every parts will get tested and not fail.
But it's seriously difficult to pass compared to consumer electronics parts for appliances/laptops/smartphones.

And every few years the requirements for car electronics gets more and more stringent even thought the pressure to cut cost is always there.

Also parts of car electronics are not all designed the same, safety related electronics parts have the most stringent requirements, followed by engine and powertrain control, then the body electronics and infotainment system.

Typical design requirements for car electronics nowadays is that it needs to last 15-25 years.

I use Bosch brand, ori or not I dunno, but I buy from a trusted and reputable parts dealer, only less than RM30
Last time I use those silicone refill buy from hypermarket, but since the Bosch ones so far so good, I just stick with it.

You are misinformed or do not know how stringent the industry is. The entire supply chain needs to conform, any business who choose not to follow face losing millions in business because the product lifecycle is so long and if you miss the qualification window or fail repeated audits and test, then your business is seriously impacted.

What the car manufacturers choose to give as warranty is not the same as the requirements they give their suppliers. Also you need to remember competition, if say Car manufacturer X can buy from supplier A or supplier B, and both supplier sell at the same price, but one supplier can show reliability of 20 years vs another which can show only 10 years, which you think X will buy from ?? Remember the price are the same, sometimes maybe the the 20 years one can even be cheaper.

If taking the example of a car headlamp... it will have various plastic, metal, alloy and electronics parts from many many suppliers... If you're the car manufacturer you will give warranty assuming the worse case and taking into considerations the least reliable part. Even thought say the control IC can last 20 years, but the LED driver may only last 10-15 years, and you have many of them. One failure out of the say the numerous chips will mean the whole headlamp fail and you get an unhappy customer.

Most of the times the electronics maker have a generic part that can be used for safety and most other parts of the car, take for example a normal IC switch, because you never know how it will be applied, it has to be designed with the most stringent possible use... so that means need to assume it's safety related.

Hahaha... yes. Because too many factors to consider.

But at least for the few thousand parts in my area, there's only a handful that has higher chance to fail... and it's always the most complicated one with the most features.

One small part, got hundreds of process to make it. There always that 1 unit out of a 100 million units which fail, and we cannot explain why.

Yup, super sluggish and so underpowered.

Let me know if you find a solution that does not involve selling the car and getting something better.
Dunno if an ECU re-map will help or not. But probably not by much, waiting for owners who have done it to feedback

Can't compare with the VW with their turbos... I drove the Passat 1.8T and Golf 1.4TSI, they are better drivers car compared to the Accord
Also of course interior quality and NVH is much better as expected.

Wanted to trade in my Accord for a Passat but 2 friends who owned Passat in Malaysia didn't have a problem free experience. Car regular in the workshop.
However my uncle in Australia owns 2 VW and not much complain, since for them VW is like Perodua only.

Let me know if you're interested, I'll bring you there. lol
At the same time I wanna bring my Type-R valve train and see if they can easily retrofit into the engine, or need major mods

I drive my Civic in the city most of the time, only use the Accord during weekends outing or going outstation.

It should not matter, have you tried the RON95 from a different petrol station, preferably different brand also.
I read the news in the past some petrol stations was caught adulterating their petrol with kerosene.
Dunno nowadays how.

Ah.. iVTEC doesn't control the fuel injection... iVTEC refer to the cam control mechanisms which affect the valve lift and timing

Depends you have any problems or not... my car mileage already ~217000 km, still on the factory fitted absorbers
maybe time to change, but ride still feel ok.

Me, my car kakis, my mechanics and my tuners know what it actually do... and iVTEC does not relates to how much fuel is injected

We control the fuel map, ignition map and cam phase map separately.

iVTEC is Honda marketing term. The details how it works depends on the engine... The Type-Rs are also using "iVTEC" but it's a lot different from the regular Hondas

Is the screw for the other side turning ? Or turning but feel loose compared to the other side ?
Could be broken. Another way is go to SC ask them adjust for you.

I think it's fixed that way

In MY they cut cost because gamen tax sky high, otherwise how to make it affordable.
If we are working in Australia, Europe, US... T, H and N badge can buy cash, no need to loan.
There the Japs cars cheaper than Myvi here.

Hell.. my uncle brand new bimmer cheaper than my 2nd hand 4 yrs used H badge.

Camry powerful ?.. this is good joke Of course kena smoke lah...
My friend Gen.2 smoked Toyota Altis and Toyota Camry... lol... it's only 1.6L but manual

My bigger displacement CP2 slower than my ET2.
On paper horsepower and torque was CP2 > ET2, but weight advantage and engine response was ET2 > CP2

I'm comparing dollar to dollar, without exchange rate...

A 4 yrs old used Civic here cost more than a brand new 3-series Bimmer full spec down under.

It's ok, no need to believe if you choose not too.

Haha... you need to re-read my post.

I'm not comparing a used Civic in australia vs a brand new bimmer in Australia
It's malaysia vs australia

So if your fresh grad pay in Malaysia is RM3k... in Australia also not that far.. just assume also AUD3k

So a typical fresh grad say buy a Myvi... you go search what 40k-50k will get you in Australia.

This post has been edited by unitron: Mar 22 2019, 05:06 PM

Soundproofing works... just that the price very expensive for the good ones.

Conti cars have good soundproofing, can easily see when you take apart their panels compared to Japs
Plus they are designed from the start to have a quieter ride with proper methodology

I think your road noise is wind noise right ?

Sometimes it's not only the gap, also the resonance effect... if you just stick something on it (like a soundproofing tile), you change the resonance frequency and this eliminate the noise. Of course soft material inherently vibrate less