Was in a rush that morning.. it was in my cam backpack.. normally I slip it phone in the laptop compartment which is hard to access... but that day due to the rush I just slipped it on my top compartment and forget all about it... it was at Chatuchak... so be carefull of your belongings... especially ur passports!!

unless your watermark that size...
when scaled down to 800x600 etc, sure cannot read those chinese characters

The title slightly a bit too long haha, but otherwise its very nice yo, I love it   

Can... Grey set also can, but when u join the events, if im not mistaken u will be disqualified

Thanks for the feedbacks.

I can't see the rubbish, again probably I can't see small things like what happened to photos with sensor dust. lol! Need to wear specs now I think.

I realised about the meh composition too, hard to compose; there too many branches poking me,   this even with the help of articulating screen, without it, it's gonna be much harder.

Ya, I said I can't see it because perhaps my eyes not sensitive like how you guys can see dust spots.

Sorry for another post, but I think this is pretty important, and I have been receiving many inquiries on this, so might as well just put the info here

For those who are interested in getting cheap extension tubes (~RM30) for macro photography, do take note that these are merely hollow tubes which "holds" your lens at a certain distance from the sensor to allow a nearer focus point. There are different types of extension tubes (ET) with different mounts for Canon/Nikon/Sony etc.

[attachmentid=3723658]

Of course, there are more expensive extension tubes (ET) which costs around RM200-RM500 i.e. Meike/Kenko.
The main differences between these ET and cheaper ones are:
1) Electronic continuity between body and lens. Meike and Kenko ET allows the camera body to "communicate" with your lens, so aperture control and Autofocus abilities are still usable.

2) Better built quality: Can support heavier lenses without breaking

Afaik, using cheap extension tubes (also known as manual tubes by some) will cause Nikon systems to enter an aperture mode of F0 (due to the lack of electronic connection) when used on normal lenses without manual aperture rings. This will lead to photos coming out very dark, no matter what setup you use.
Based on what I know, there are only two ways of getting over this if you do not have a lens with a manual aperture ring
a) Get a lens with a manual aperture ring (duh lol), usually the one to go for is the 50mm F1.8D since its pretty cheap and very common.

b) This depends on the type of ET I suppose (don't think all cheap ET are like this). For Nikon systems, the only way to prevent the aperture value becoming F0 is to manually "trick" the aperture controls. Details can be seen here: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=402...&type=3&theater
All credits to Mr. Shahrir Haji Nawawi for sharing his knowledge on this 

Canon systems are easier to use with cheap ET though. One only has to attach a normal lens, set the aperture (say F16), then press DOF preview, remove the normal lens, then attach the ET plus the lens and the aperture will be set to F16.

Verdict for Nikon users:
Unless if you already have a 50mm F1.8D (which many have since it is the nifty fifty ), and only wanted to try out on macro photography (no intentions of buying any dedicated macro lens later), the cheap ET will be good enough~
If you intend to venture into the world of macro photography, then by all means get Meike/Kenko (especially Kenko if you plan on investing in a big macro lens i.e. 90mm/105mm/150mm/180mm etc. later on); the better built quality will reduce the risks of dropping the lens or damaging the connecting plates between lens and body. And of course, there is Autofocus. The AF capabilities differ from lens to lens, although it sucks on the 50mm F1.8g, it works like a charm on the 105mm F2.8 micro. I even shoot with AF now, big change in shooting style

Just sharing XD
Sorry for long-winded

[PFT.J]

Isn't the minimum focusing distance is the distance of object from your sensor? Not the lens?

Hi sifus,

I wanted to buy a new lens as the kit lens doesn't provide the sharpness I wanted. Finally step into prime lens.

As budget problem, I'm only able to get 35mm f.18 and 50mm f1.8. Normal usage would be traveling and food photo.

As much research 35mm is all rounded which is good for me since I take various crappy photos(LOL). But I want to hear more opinion on this.

Since food photo is also vital to me, 50mm also a good lens for better close up.

Opinion guys?

Side Question : How to avoid reflection from the food? You know, some oil will reflect the light from the ambient light which makes the photo suckish.. Photo taking with no set-up, just DSLR and in-door restaurant light. Is it I need a filter or something?

Problem is I normally shot at 28mm-ish, and those lens are bloody expensive with those aperture. Guess have to do some standing and positioning when using 35mm.

For event shot such as cosplay, 35mm is super good, not far not near, sharp, decent bokeh, bright.. but for food I have no idea how... and my friend keep poison me with his 17-50mm f2.8, the sharpness..!! 

Does 3 shots or depends on your setting at different exposure and yes you need do it yourself. The shortcut is HDR

Nope, bracketing involves shooting several photos of different EV/aperture/shutter speed etc., which you have to stich yourself later
But I think there are readily available modes like HDR in the D800 which take two photos and auto combine... but most people don't like it since two is not enough haha

It will take 3 (or more, depending on your settings) photos continuously, but you can set the interval timing between each shots under Timer (C6) iirc 

Yeap, there is an in-built HDR mode haha, but takes 2 shots only and combined for you... Dynamic range is not as good as 3 shots or more.

Bracketing on the D800 is pretty easy, but I remember that there's a catch to it. If I remembered correctly, the camera will always follow the no. of shots you set under Timer (C6), regardless of how many frames you set it to shoot under BKT; or something like that haha
Long time didn't shoot HDR already T____T

PS: Still, with the crazy dynamic range of the D800, there's no real need to take HDR liao haha Unless if you really want to create those insanely colorful landscape shots. Still no idea how to achieve those 

ideally if u want a future proof lens, the 50mm will be ok since its FX.
the 35mm and 40mm both are of cos DX, and between those 2, imo the 40mm wins hands down.
for portraits etc, 50mm also more preferable over 35mm.
and if u want wider for group shots, just use kit lens

btw, speaking of 50mm on aps-c...this guy is a celebrity already...all self-portraits.
http://www.viralnova.com/kyle-thompson-photography/

Hi all Nikon Bro!

My D80 refuse to work now. I try remove batt and reset it . On the top LCD only show "ERR". Anyone encounter this before? What seem to be the problem?
Dont know if worth it if send it to service center to repair. or get new D7100 or D600?

Can always ask for price quotes first before depositing right?

Still, the choice is yours
Nowadays a ~Rm1.5k DSLR is equivalent, if not better than the D80 in many aspects already I suppose

Still, I really love the dynamic range of the D80. Its the 1st DSLR that made me fell in love with photography anyway   

Want to ask, you guys ever clean the sensor all by yourself before?
I am horrified when I see this.


Thinking to clean the sensor all by myself after 1 year of use. Some say it is not advisable to use chemical cleaning liquid, some say it is not safe to fog the sensor with your breath. So which one is really true? I understand the former can corrode the surface of the sensor.

This guy use the latter:

I have one...