Properly phrased.
Due to security design of nfc protocol, currently nfc is not allowed to make any connection with other(nfc) over 15mm distance.

now u mention it, true enough that could improve on the AF... interesting to see how A7R fair out when my friend get their hands on them, then i could give it a comparison.

my suggestion for the Alpha future threads merging or fusion.

instead of nex + alpha or A E mount thread... why not

Thread A, Alpha Community Talks; photo talks sharing news outing discussion etc. high speed thread.

Thread B, Alpha Technical Talks; in depth technical question, where it will goes very slow and people requires technical help can read through it slowly.

and yes, people may double post the question in both thread. see whichever is active to reply, or senior will automatically try to answer the question back into the Technical thread. also, as**ole seniors can just zip their mouth in technical talk if they dont plan to help out, or any other answer then "google la"



domo_kun: sadly i think everyone forgotten the 55-210 E mount lens. which is affordable, good daylight bokeh lens. i love the rendered bokeh, kinda smooth for my taste.

This post has been edited by edpaul: Jan 8 2014, 11:55 PM

buyou12: let me give u summary

A5000 "touch screen"

A6000 E.V.F. Electronic View Finder (the small box thing u put your eye on it and see image inside, works like old film camera, just its a digital TV inside).... if you were to purchase this little EVF thing(sold separately) to use on A5000, it cost over RM 1k!... so imagine current combo price of A6000 with the EVF! (and if u read more online, it will tell u the EVF is very useful and u will be poisoned to A6000 anyway) the reason no touch screen on A6000 is you dont wan the camera to go crazy mode because your nose touch the touchscreen when u trying to use the EVF...

the rest operation about the same, but A6000 has much "Pro auto focus system" new tech maaa~

EDIT: correction


6so, tenchi0205, awiekupo and other who are interested in Macro:

Macrography is a very special genre of photography. there is NO "one way to macrography"...

first u get the basics... u dont need a macro lens. u need a magnifier or 'medium to increase MFD' there is many many many way. the first early days (film) was macro filters(rm30-200) that screw on in front of your lens.... then we have the Reverse Ring/Adapter method (rm30-50) then out came the extension tube(rm50-500), then lastly (my favorite) the Raynox DCR-250 (rm250-350)... all these method are budget method before getting your hand on a good 1:1 macro lens.

i have tried them ALL. but yours to experiment with. (thou if u asked me for advise, i will say throw the money on Raynox* if the filtersize fit) the rest is too hassle troublesome(extension), too risky(reverse ring) and lost of IQ (macro filter)

after getting ready the stuff you need. now down to the basic.

first, turn off AF. u do not need AF. period.
ii. do not start to 1:1 (max MFD) try to set to get as much DOF you can from the limited setting

slowly learn the balance of DOF (aperture vs distance) vs ISO gain/boost. a lot balancing u will struggle here... always DOF vs ISO..., but each result will determine your style... then, this is the last part..... Slowly grow to your Style. this is where macro is very special genre.... from 4:1 macro diamond shooting (yeaaaa its fun! playing with all sort of 0.5 carat to 5 carat diamonds!) to flash macro to natural light macro to stacking macro and many many more... each style will lead you to different equipment, hence dont rush into buying a macro lens with all kinda of accessories for it.....

like i mention, DOF vs ISO. to gain DOF, is either u lower the aperture to F8 or even darker F16, you will struggle on ISO IQ lost. i would suggest stay a further distance to gain more DOF, ease the aperture and iso... and crop the image (since u are not doing large print right away, so cropping is FINE)... then from here, u will start to learn that you prefer colorful bright background (natural light shooter) or dark background with subject popping (Flash Macro)... most ppl just use easy way out buying a flash... then slowly your style will emerge.

attach a photo, natural light macro. no-crop. NEX3(first Gen)+ SEL30F3.5 macro. F5.6, 1/20, iso1600 (Not processed yet)


1:1crop for pixelpeeper


This post has been edited by edpaul: Jun 13 2014, 09:36 AM

forgot to mention about the MF thingie
there is 2 basic way for macro focusing

either u use finger to manually focus it (aka fine tune) if u have a slow/still subject.
or if u have a active subject, lock the focus somewhere at a certain magnification, 1:1.25 or 1:1.5 or xxxx or a distance 3cm, 4cm, 5cm... and hold your camera, shift forward back to move the 'focus plane' or 'in focus area'

there is another 3rd way, for still subject/stacking method, the Macro Rail... google it lazy explain as its not my style... although i do have the rail... a 12cm and a 24cm rail (something like a longgggg tripod plate)

Opps, they removed touch screen from the a5000? Ohhh I'm lost with all the new release, I better get some reading done...

Raynox is fun and worthy because you can match with any lens as long within the filter diameter range (52-67mm). And it works best with the standard kit Tele zoom 55210 or any zoom from 50* up to 200.... Since Sony e mount mostly are very small filter diameter, u can eBay for step up ring eg:49mm step to 52mm, less then rm10 and u a are good to go...

tenchi0205: Sony VCL-DH1758 1.7x teleconverter works well with supported cybershots, but not what you think on the NEX contrast detection AF, due to sensor size, the way the optics works, its distort so badly that the sensor is unablestruggle to read-out the contrast properly.

honestly the 55-210 is a GREAT lens with the OSS build in.

and any camera model after NexF3, they have this new tele zoom thing something clearimagezoom? that give u up to 2x zoom but full resolution (not the crop mode zoom)... its kinda like a digital zoom function, and it works 100 times better then the VCL tele converter.

ChinWY: to me, who ever started talking bout crop factor or "hey that 100mm lens will be 150 in crop" is an idiot that wanted to cause confusion.

and i dont think the way you describe the crop factor is correct either. even i have a hard time describing it. usually i'd say, put our eye on the viewfinder (or look at the lcd for NEX case) and see the area it covers... then move(or zoom) around and compose till you see fit. dont go worry bout the mumbo jumbo field of view sh*t.

because i can tell u, u may get a same FOV from 75mm on FF to 50mm on crop, but the AOV is totally off and both result image looks totally diff due to the background compression. you will understand when u hold a 50mm on medium format and u will say "wow so wide". and a 90mm medium format is like 35mm on crop but the angle of view is so much prettier then 35mm on crop. the AOV looks as sweet as a 90mm on crop! but with FOV a lot wider like a 35mm. (confuse yet?)

This post has been edited by edpaul: Jun 16 2014, 05:39 PM

double posted by mistake

This post has been edited by edpaul: Jun 16 2014, 05:39 PM

For those who crazy bout moon, aside from Nikon system that oversharpen the image, the closest good photo I can see (affordable) is the obselete Sony sal 500 f8 mirror.

Oooooohhh u remind me of that 200-400 lens... Still mint in my drybox!

I keep forgetting to start my 28 days of moon phase photo...

its 100% or 1:1 pixel. its for u to check focus accuracy/sharpness in a single press and go on with photography. for most of us, we prefer it this way...

Mmm... Ezyfoto u seem to have bad experience with them... And yes, 3rd party(fotokem etc) dealer will require assistance from 2nd party dealers to register. Those 2nd party dealer (sony stores, saloons etc) has full access to the SEW website to direct register on the spot (10min done) and direct print out the SEW cert...

And register online will not affect the SEW. But my SEW never show up for most of my products.... Except for products that went in for service/repair only it is updated to the website. But if the shop manage to register the warranty for u, it should show up in their database, I even can check your warranty information from miri even u brought from penang. grab the receipt with the SEW purchase with date. That's your final proof of purchase if anything went wrong.

Sony honours BOTH SEW + 3 month online register...

this is how sad the NEX groups has turn into ever since so many gearhead has arised...

sadly but true, that the technological breakthrough like greater ISO are usually reserved and used on higher end bodies (FF)... and of coz its premium price and people who cant afford it will use excuse like, only rich ppl play with it... but the way i remember about photography, its always been the journey of learning to use the balance of F/#, SS, ASA... not comparing which camera is better.... its never ending of comparing, because in 6 month time, another better camera will pop up, those A6000 and A7s will just be another old lousier camera that the gearhead used to praise now shun... then and i will still enjoy using my old first gen nex3 in bali...

This post has been edited by edpaul: Jul 15 2014, 05:39 PM

there are few, ranging from rm80 up to 2k... each price range introduce diff features.

well, just understand some common sense.... as long as your attached lens is not big and heavy causing stress to the adapter/mount, then it should be fine. not saying it cant handle big lens, its up to how you handle the lens/adapter/body as one piece.

The Term KIT LENS, means the packaged lens... the whole 'kit' of the packages, even the battery consider belongs to the 'kit' set. that also can means, the (a mount)2470Ziess is A900 kitlens (theywere once bundled.) or the A550 with A1670zeiss

kitlens is just a rubbish word ppl misunderstood.

instead of mixing them all up, lets put it as, all entry camera, are bundled with a kitlens or twin kit, so, the 18-55, 16mm, 1650, 70210 are considered kitlens. those higher spec, special bundled packages are special cases.

another term we used, are, kitlens replacement, the 1670Z, 18135(or was it 105) could be consider as kitlens replacement as we all usually assumed the 1855/1650pz are kit lens.

This post has been edited by edpaul: Jul 16 2014, 04:34 PM

'
auw i wouldnt say like that... it will only make it more confusing. to make it worst, there is sometimes u will see 'overpriced useless lens' or 'overrated' or sadly 'underrated' lens~ ....

each lens has its own purpose. i mean, (since E mount has limited range, i will use A mount for example (and i dont wan to throw canikon lens later attract wrong crowd)....

SAL1650 F2.8 vs 18-135F3.5-5.6 lens vs 16-80z F3.5-F4.5
some people need the F2.8, go for the SAL1650.
some people need a better overall range, 18-135 kit lens is very very nice to use. (or the older 16-105)
some people wants something in between the first two... a stop between the two lens, and range in middle of two lens, zeiss quality, grab the 1680 then.

i used three of them extensively... i couldnt even tell which is the best i prefer, i like all three for their 'purposes'. there is no ONE WORD to describe/categorize them...

well, kit or not kit, it shouldnt matters. if the lens fit your purpose, its gonna be your kit lens agreed?

actually we all dont need to argue which lens is categorizes under which group/level or what not. If thats your favorite lens, and it brings the best of your skill... even its rm300, then its your PRO-grade lens, because it brings out your skill.

sidenote: my own opinion, i myself prefer the sel1650 for its compact size(purpose)... the 16-70 would be kinda defeat the purpose of being (mirrorless)small. if your purpose is range, dont let the size stop you.

seriously, 28-70 on FF is a very very very very limited range... i struggled with it

hey hey hey cooldown cooldown, if you dont put it too serious, it would be a fun discussion. i understand everyone has their point of view, and i notice everyone here are (yes, everyone are and me) trying to shove their idea into each other head. if u fail, just laugh it off... stay cool~

Hahahaha, last time I uses my a300 for wedding job, the groom's relative, a experienced user, with 5d2, look at me shoot so easily, asked me what Sony pro body is that?.... I'm like.... It's an entry level camera.... And he doesn't believes me (now he switched to sony)...


It's not what body suits wedding,
It's the right skill to do a wedding.

You don't use sport shooting skill or macro shooting skill to shoot a wedding...

(but albnok has a point on the a7R, due to physical design limitation, without EFC, the shutter lag is crazy!
Which make canikon LV totally not suitable for AD. That's why canikon ppl shun liveview.... The EFC was introduce first on the 2nd generation of NEX (c3) to fix that shutter lag limitation)... )

why FF is pro? im selling my service formed from my skill, not selling my service formed by my camera... which photographer service homepage is filled with photo of 'their gear' then 'masterpiece'? should every photographer fill their homepage with 80% photo of their gear so it gives confident to their customer? no rite?

if a person keep thinking society will judge them by the camera level they use, they will never walk out of that box. end up they actually judge themselves by their gears not society.

just my 2 cent.

if your photo cant win the client heart, but the camera gear win their hearts, then trust me, they don't deserves your hardwork, your effort, your skill because THEY WILL NOT APPRECIATE YOUR PHOTO as ART.