maybe brand new brake pads, locks wheels/slows rotors faster than the tire can cope.
functions, due to the bars, they WILL work your suspension/tires harder (which is good)

i would not be too surprised if it's the c drive 2 as they are comfort tires, however if you are having mixed tires, best if you can first identify where is the source of the screech. and to be honest, better if you practice changing all 4 tires instead of 2/pair, while practicing good tire rotations for even wear on all 4 tires.

didn't give you enough clues?

i've heard good reviews that it is rather fade resistant.

however with the rotor wear and noise, naw i'll pass on it.

not sure about BMK, but i used rapid stop 500c pads, down hill smoked like hell and fade until no more brakes, had to stop at the side of karak letting the car slowly roll till a flat terrain and stop to cool down the pads. the smoke was even blurring my wind screen.

and with the wear it did to my rotor, insane brake dust.

never again. lol.

try EBC greenstuff la. lol.

personally, id go with this:
if got sound before changing pads - skim
if your fingers can feel grooves - skim

otherwise, leave it. skim too many times = rotor replacement = hassle + money
and yes, skim disc 2/3 times max then have to change, cuz too thin already.

you shouldn't do that, as it re creates uneven braking surfaces in which you originally eliminated with your brake pads/rotor running in for the first 1-2k km.

that is only "acceptable" if you have noise/braking jutters however you don't want to skim the rotors and your pads are not due to replace yet.

it works for you most likely because you don't even brake that hard to begin with and it was never an issue on extreme thermal expansion/distribution.

can is can, however better on following specification of Mitsu/proton SPIII instead of dextron III
specifications are there for a reason, no?

that is true for the most part. however have to make sure the spec/data sheets are the same/similar, like how some gear/atf oils have high viscosity/low viscosity specifications. difference quite huge btw and if you don't follow, even if it has no issue, it may potentially cause faster wear/tear in the long run.

examples:
http://www.torcousa.com/technology/HiVis_ATF_Torco.pdf
http://www.torcousa.com/technology/LoVis_ATF_Torco.pdf

high viscos (thicker) for mitsu SPII / III
low viscosity for mitsu SP IV

another example would be DOT5 brake fluid being silicone based, are NOT compatible with DOT3/DOT4/DOT5.1

personally, i do Plug and play products, so my opinions can be a bit... how should i put it "not efficient" ?
i tend to pay more however i get less hassle since my upgrades are all EASILY reversible and removable should i want to sell/don't like.

while cheaper/more efficient options would be things like sifu davidke20 mentioned, using half cuts from other cars, modify/replace the knuckle so on and so forth.

personally i run on:

- IMP slotted/x drilled rotors skimmed once no f***ing thanks to rapid stop
now the slots are barely there. if need to skim again i'll be selling it instead (im sure there are people out there who don't mind some brake jitters/noise) :/

- IMP stainless steel brake hoses with DOT 5.1 brake fluid, very snappy braking response lol

- EBC Green stuff (RRP is 320 for iswara lol)
if you dont mind brake dust, consider going EBC ultimax (their basic product) thats around 160-170 or so RRP

if you're going the route as you listed, best if you 1 shot do all minus item 3, because they come in a set. having larger rotors/calipers (and/or additional pistons aka 2/3 pots etc) without the appropriate servo/cylinder you'll be getting VERY poor braking performance.
like wise, go the other way around of item 1/2 first, you'll easily lock your wheels and you'll be in a very dangerous situation.
so 1-5 minus 3 has to be done all together.
now you can see why i don't even bother them and kept stock ROFL! there WILL be trial and error and you'll need a LOT of patience for this. i use my car as a daily ride, not a track car that tends to sit in the workshop more than the road, so i won't have such patience hence my choice on upgrades.

ps: i got news that LKC bought satria liao, the RVR braking system is for sale and im f***ing tempted

salah.
you downgrade to mineral also no problem. if you heard that from magician, change magician.

davidke20

i still proceed to give the rear apm lowered springs a try, much stiffer, absolutely hate it on humps/potholes aka malaysian roads.

however the stability is there, i tried to press it from outside, as you said, only 1 bounce or barely much as the absorbers are full time engaged as the spring's much shorter than the H&R's and the absorbers, being sports oriented short stroke, it is stiff as f*** lol. http://www.thousand.com.my/index.php?m=pro...yID=41&proID=75

additionally, i've advanced my distributor ignition timing by 3-5 degrees
my mechanic help me advanced it and said right now it's the max for Ron 95, not sure how true is that, but damn my car suddenly become damn powerful lol. 130-140km/h can still see it climb decently compared to before rofl.
i think during the gymkhana sessions i could perhaps sit in 2nd gear without first gear for torque as that could upset the car balance/tires.

just tested the route from my house to kl sentral, decent twisties between duta - mahameru, averaging 130-160km/h.
feedback is really good, the stiffness really shines here, and thankfully it did not scrape the rear fenders unlike previously, probably because the absorbers are much better this time around.

it still hops a little if i throttle steer too much/too fast, however overall it's a lot more stable than before. i still prefer the old setup on a daily ride basis, however for track days, it is no doubt the current springs should fare much better. we'll see how it goes this sunday, if its really positive, i'll decide to keep the rear springs, probably have to end up keeping everything because i doubt anyone will buy the fronts only rofl. actually it does make sense though, if you have passengers at the rear, iswaras tend to sink quite a bit on stock spring/absorber setups and some humps will scrape similar to wira's.

DOT4 and 5.1 can mix, although not recommended since your DOT5.1 is wasted lol (after mixture it'll still perform as a DOT4, so there is no point to mix).

and yes, true. once you lock, its up to tire performance already and chances are if you're driving on comfort based tires/drifting tires ala silverstones, you better start praying early lol.

and you're welcome

many more questions liao lol

- how come the spring will fly out, too short than stock settings?

- what is that orange thing, some kinda wheel? lol

and lol 30mins milk making

"Fat Otaku heaven" (Y)

what size is that wheel o_O

hmm so you're recommending me to upsize my rear to 16"?

ohh basically lighten the rear la? (might as well just remove? lol)

she taxi'd other peoples' cars for so long, now her turn to return the favor la w