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 PROTON SAGA BLM, FL & FLX Rojak Thread V49, Poor people car everyday need to fix

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Quazacolt
post Aug 27 2013, 09:33 PM

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QUOTE(TitanRev @ Aug 27 2013, 09:00 PM)
Gaga sifu, kenji, david, mahihi....mau ask a bit
AFI RS cross drill or IMP cross drill? anyone have experienced using any of these 2 because I'm firing up my brake project but don't want to blinding buy stuff and end up bad...

For brake pads, I'm in between these 2 Bendix Ultimate or Rapids Stop 500C pads. Both have very good review and suitable for the occasional spirited driving and track.

For the braided hose and brake fluid, I already decided. Going for ProRs and Endless DOT4.
*
SUCH COINCIDENCE YOU POPPED THE X DRILLED QUESTION

thundergod_cid 2 disc cracked within 3 months
mine, although more than a year or maybe 2, however today i noticed there's hairline cracks coming out from the x drilled holes.

personal advise? if you hate seeing cracks on your disc, stay away from x drilled.
both me and elton (well, was. he using fake jun now lolz) are on IMP x drilled

for brake pads, EBC green stuff. or Ultimax if you don't mind brake dust and want to save a bit (actually save a lot, almost half price lol)
RS... nope. lol. less 9 month habis, worn my rotor like hell and needed to skim disc, and there goes my pretty slots (skim until almost tarak)
faded numerous times down hill from genting and one time it was so bad the pads couldn't recover and i had to stop on a flat terrain on karak highway (front wheels smoking like crazy until my FWS fogging up a bit)

never such nonsense on EBC. and i'm still the gentle driver compared to certain folks that glow their discs *cough nightstalker1993 cough*

ps: if you're going endless DOT4 brake fluid, never considered their brake pads instead? lol
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Endless_Brake_Technology_Europe
japan x europe smile.gif
Quazacolt
post Aug 27 2013, 09:34 PM

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QUOTE(V12Kompressor @ Aug 27 2013, 09:01 PM)
my car is stock... baiii
*
same high 5
Quazacolt
post Aug 27 2013, 09:48 PM

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QUOTE(V12Kompressor @ Aug 27 2013, 09:40 PM)
You just got contradicted by your own reply
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no la still stock la
Quazacolt
post Aug 27 2013, 11:20 PM

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ok folks, please do not cheat in a card game especially against kids.
Quazacolt
post Aug 28 2013, 12:06 AM

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QUOTE(dares @ Aug 27 2013, 11:32 PM)
blink.gif  blink.gif
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sign0006.gif laugh.gif
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

Quazacolt
post Aug 28 2013, 12:18 AM

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QUOTE(V12Kompressor @ Aug 28 2013, 12:09 AM)
apa abs? Titan?

HiLoSoftHardKetukKetampi?
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maybe RCS kot icon_question.gif
Quazacolt
post Aug 28 2013, 12:46 AM

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QUOTE(davidke20 @ Aug 28 2013, 12:38 AM)
I buy on THICKNESS minimal 21mm for any slotted + drilled vented disc, I don't really care how they drill it. Thickness is the key when going downhill battle.
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don't care how thick, if completely drilled through, prepare for cracks. at least that's what everyone's been telling me.

i also don't believe (since compared to their driving mine's gentle as hell already, honest) until i get the cracks myself doh.gif
Quazacolt
post Aug 28 2013, 01:10 AM

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QUOTE(kenjilew @ Aug 28 2013, 12:56 AM)
u drive like mad ppl give u what pad what rotor also die mia la... -.-
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the cracks on mine are no where like those "mad ppl" or the horror pictures that you can google. however it is happening, and it'll only go downhill from now on

food for thought:
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1437513

http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/suspension-...-dissolved.html

http://ebcbrakes.com/articles/dangerous-cr...drilled-rotors/

https://www.google.com/search?q=cross+drill...iw=1920&bih=959

=edit=
my EBCs are around/over a year, still got way more than half as opposed to another brake pad i've used doh.gif

ps: among my friends that are into motorsports anyways, they'd recommend RS800 instead if you still insist on RS, and don't mind the rotor wear/brake dust.

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Aug 28 2013, 01:12 AM
Quazacolt
post Aug 28 2013, 09:11 AM

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QUOTE(kenjilew @ Aug 28 2013, 01:14 AM)
what rs pads u using previously ?
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500 mia
Quazacolt
post Aug 28 2013, 09:24 AM

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QUOTE(davidke20 @ Aug 28 2013, 01:15 AM)
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

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yeap i do agree with your humble opinions notworthy.gif

however the fact that drilled rotors cracking has not much to do with the thickness of the surface nor positions it was drilled in relation to the vents.

case in point for your 2 facts:
- my rotors have no vents
- my brake pad temperature is OFFICIALLY rated between 300-400 Celsius (EBC shows real lab testing/graphs and don't simply claim how hot their pads can go) and they strongly advise against motorsports/track events so yeah technically my pads shouldn't be "sohai temperature"
to further emphasis, with a infrared thermometer, my rotors NEVER go above 400c, and they never glowed biggrin.gif (nor do i get silly outside car wash people spraying water into them when they are hot since i only wash/detail car myself lol)

for non complete drilled through rotors:
http://ebcbrakes.com/product/3gd-sport-rotors/
QUOTE
The dimple drilled rotor was invented by EBC back in the 90′s and has been imitated by many because of its ability to offer pad degassing without “Through Drilling” disc or rotor holes which has been shown to promote rotor cracks.


endless, a pretty known braking technology compmany, don't have drilled rotors at all, at most are below
http://www.endless-sport.co.jp/brake_rotor/index.html

project mu, also a damn famous company, also don't have drilled:
http://www.project-mu.co.jp/en/products/in...ml#pindex_rotor

and yea, i hope you're very much correct because replacing rotors aren't exactly cheap and they do take considerable amount of time for machine pressing (if you're going with the "might as well" path on doing your wheel bearings too)
like you (and myself as well) said, the cracks at the moment ARE NOT SERIOUS. and i really hope they stay that way smile.gif

what i've posted is merely an advise/warning to those wishing to go for drilled rotors smile.gif
Quazacolt
post Aug 28 2013, 09:27 AM

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QUOTE(yscsiew @ Aug 28 2013, 02:17 AM)
anyone know better choice of alternator to replace the ori one?(higher current but can fit without extreme modify, going ICE)
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unless you're gonna spend at least/over 10-20k ringgit on your ICE, you really don't have to bother with the alternator unless it is faulty, in which case you get it fixed/reconditioned
Quazacolt
post Aug 28 2013, 09:34 AM

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QUOTE(davidke20 @ Aug 28 2013, 06:58 AM)
They aren't expansive, AU$300 only nod.gif And I understand metal fatigue, I know the crack is unavoidable when rapid expand/contraction happen to an overheated rotor due to wrong choice of brake pad.

Therefore, my pad is only BOSCH standard.

But again, does it really work? I know cross drill is already a myth:

1) Basically having holes on the disc surface can simply means it looks nicer and hardcore for ricers like me, more for decoration.
2) Having cross drilled holes on vented disc to allow water/heat/asbestos channel out through the vents? Generally nowadays brake pads are asbestos free. Water can be easily vaporize as the heat start building up on the rotor itself.
3) Heat remover? According to WIKI
So, how does dimple drill benefit hmm.gif

*
i fade bosch standard on normal road braking, hell, i fade RS too cry.gif

personally, i'm not sure either. the links i googled seems to say it's a myth.
however i do have butt dyno feeling that the drilled/slots does seem to help in braking. if anything they SHAVE the brake pads more aggressively and with that kinda friction, one might think you're getting better stopping power? gas/water channeling/repellent aside.

so, perhaps the dimples are for ricers? or maybe they do something as per the original x drilled does, just perhaps a little less effect since it isn't complete drilled through, albeit trading off with less risk of cracking.
Quazacolt
post Aug 28 2013, 09:35 AM

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QUOTE(DonMe @ Aug 28 2013, 07:50 AM)
Although creamic discs are not cheap.
*
hmm i'm looking for those myself for the iswara, high carbon or ceramic...

can't seem to find, or pricing too insane lol

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