Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

Bump Topic Topic Closed RSS Feed

Outline · [ Standard ] · Linear+

 LYN Proton Saga/Iswara Driver's Thread! V27, all the older sifus went MIA liao :(

views
     
poolcarpet
post Oct 9 2013, 12:04 AM

On my way
****
Senior Member
548 posts

Joined: Sep 2005
From: Mars
tell them you need to keep back the faulty parts even after replacement, see what they say tongue.gif

QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 8 2013, 08:12 PM)
yeap, had such experience on the iswara, and even the kancil having out of spec air cond replaced to it.

original parts can be serviced (flushing, cleaned with solvents/chemicals etc) and only if it is damaged/leaking then a replacement is needed.

again, i have suspicion of them wanting your parts, and i have my own experiences so yes please do get 2nd opinions smile.gif
*
poolcarpet
post Oct 24 2013, 07:14 PM

On my way
****
Senior Member
548 posts

Joined: Sep 2005
From: Mars
you got a photo?

if you take a photo maybe i can point it out if i can remember... i took it out before, diy replaced it, but dont have a photo of it so i can't remember for sure...

QUOTE(Albert B @ Oct 24 2013, 01:04 PM)
Need some advice - how to remove the door lock actuator solenoid at the front driver side door (Iswara model). Can only find one mounting screw, but still got something attached inside.
*
poolcarpet
post Oct 24 2013, 07:15 PM

On my way
****
Senior Member
548 posts

Joined: Sep 2005
From: Mars
haha, i wouldn't claim to be sifu man!!! many real sifu here notworthy.gif

i still have not tried DIY the cabin filter, lol smile.gif no time to meddle with it yet, maybe next month smile.gif

QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 24 2013, 04:53 PM)
we have none. you can however, clean the fan blower which sifu poolcarpet shared in PDF format previously (i printed out lol!)
the way it is designed the fan does seem to be able to trap some dust and eventually it'll be VERY dirty
*
poolcarpet
post Oct 25 2013, 09:01 AM

On my way
****
Senior Member
548 posts

Joined: Sep 2005
From: Mars
This is the original type, same as what i replaced before. The attachment to the locking knob/stick is just a clip on if i remember correctly. So remove the locking knob/stick by gently removing it from the top of this. As for the screw, if i'm not wrong, there are also some screws as the side of the door (not under the door skin, at the side, i.e. Same as where the door lock mechanism is.

It's not difficult to remove i remember. Give it a try again and try to trace the linkages and screws.

QUOTE(Albert B @ Oct 24 2013, 09:56 PM)
The photo of the replacement part is as below, showing view from both sides, in the correct vertical position. Will take a photo of the door tomorrow.

The bottom screw is ok, but how to unfasten the top portion? If it is attached to the lock mechanism, then the lock mechanism must be removed together ?
*
poolcarpet
post Oct 25 2013, 09:03 AM

On my way
****
Senior Member
548 posts

Joined: Sep 2005
From: Mars
Maybe aerial connection loose, it's plugged to back of the cd player... Or maybe aerial itself no good, or maybe even player itself starting to kaput. Hard to tell sad.gif

QUOTE(wlm6070 @ Oct 25 2013, 09:00 AM)
i have one problem with my radio,most of the times failed to searching local radio station,is it problem with radio player or wirering itself.sometimes can hear,lets say i hear hitz fm and at the same times hear other station also,2 radion station in one channel...
*
poolcarpet
post Oct 25 2013, 09:04 AM

On my way
****
Senior Member
548 posts

Joined: Sep 2005
From: Mars
Diy the cabin filter also then teach us lah smile.gif

QUOTE(kickent @ Oct 24 2013, 08:00 PM)
done with the AC blower cleaning ...its quite straight forward actually..but need to prepare 8mm wrench to open the  blower cover...hehe

now my aircond seems a bit ok, air quite faster than before...thanks sifu poolcarpet  icon_rolleyes.gif
*
poolcarpet
post Oct 28 2013, 11:07 AM

On my way
****
Senior Member
548 posts

Joined: Sep 2005
From: Mars
anyone here on 13" rims and planning to upgrade to 14"? let me know cause i want to buy your 13" rims smile.gif
poolcarpet
post Oct 29 2013, 12:18 AM

On my way
****
Senior Member
548 posts

Joined: Sep 2005
From: Mars
neither smile.gif that is photo below the gearstick right? it's not there

it's a cable connected from the gearbox to the meter console, e.g. the one in the center (gold color ring..). if after changing cable it's still not working, then probably your meter kaput.

ori proton speedometer/odometer costs RM150 (just the middle part).

it's a real PITA to replace, unless you are really patient and good with diy smile.gif



http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h73/kahc...16052008833.jpg


QUOTE(gemini sharti @ Oct 28 2013, 11:46 PM)
[attachmentid=3695979]

Which one is the cable that is connected to the odometer and trip meter. Both odometer and trip meter on my Iswara stopped running.
*
This post has been edited by poolcarpet: Oct 29 2013, 12:19 AM
poolcarpet
post Oct 29 2013, 11:44 AM

On my way
****
Senior Member
548 posts

Joined: Sep 2005
From: Mars
https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1549104/all


QUOTE(Albert B @ Oct 29 2013, 09:47 AM)
Looks like the fuel pump. So the cause of all your troubles is no fuel supply to the carburettor.
*
poolcarpet
post Nov 9 2013, 01:56 PM

On my way
****
Senior Member
548 posts

Joined: Sep 2005
From: Mars
Respect!!! Really diy level 9 smile.gif

A new original proton speedometer odometer costs rm150. For me, i decided to change it instead of attempting repair smile.gif

QUOTE(gemini sharti @ Nov 9 2013, 12:33 PM)
Finally had some time to try to fix my Iswara speedometer. My odometer and tripmeter is stuck but the speedmeter is still working. Workshop quote me RM180 to replace it but I tried my luck in repairing it myself. Will tell what was the result but before that, this is what I did step by step:

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


The odometer stuck at 20k+ KM since I bought the car 2nd hand.

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


Took out all the 4 cables that were connected to the switch which are air cond switch, rear wiper switch, rear windscreen heat plate switch and hazard light switch. It was a bit difficult because of cramped space.

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


The plastic cover has been removed. Next up is the meter panel.

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


That's the speedometer cable. Not sure whether its in good condition. But when I drive the car, it spins.

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


This is what it looks like behind the speedometer.

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


I took out the odometer and trip meter separately. It looks very complicated and fragile so be careful and think twice before you decide to dismantle it. I made the decision to repair myself because I was planning to change the speedometer but decided to try my luck. When you take out the speedmeter needle, please be very careful, the coil that is connected to it looks very fragile.

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


I examined the gears, noting was broken and there wasn't any wear and tear.

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


Then I found out that a gear that is connected to the speedometer cable was stuck with some dirt. So I cleaned it and applied some WD 40.

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


The green gear will move the odometer and also the trip meter. Until now I can't find the problem because all the gears move smoothly when I turn it. I applied some WD 40 to all the gears throughout the process.

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


Then I found the culprit! It's the white gear which is connected in between the odometer and the trip meter. It seems that for some reason, the white gear could not move the trip meter gear thus it gets stuck and makes the whole thing stuck. So I decide to take out the white gear. It will make the trip meter useless but odometer is more important than trip meter. Better to have 1 working rather than nothing. But the problem is the white gear is difficult to be removed. So I decided to take out the main gear for the trip meter.

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


There will be a black gear in the place where I have marked a blue circle. I unscrewed the pin and took it out. So now the trip meter won't be moving. The white gear can now move the odometer.

And the result, the odometer works!!  brows.gif

But... the trip meter is not functioning (who needs it when the odometer is working) and I realised that the speedmeter needle is not as steady as before. Its shaking when the speed is below 40 KM/H. I did found out the the reading is slightly lower than before. I did took the meter out and reassemble the needle. Its still shaking but I guess the reading is ok now.

So what's your comment guys? Wana try it out? Or just change a new one? I spend almost 4 hours and it didn't cost me anything  biggrin.gif
*
poolcarpet
post Nov 11 2013, 09:16 AM

On my way
****
Senior Member
548 posts

Joined: Sep 2005
From: Mars
Maybe the temp gauge faulty?


QUOTE(neosaint99 @ Nov 11 2013, 01:09 AM)
Hey guys,

Wondering if you have had this problem. ---OVERHEATING---

My car temperature indicator goes up (all the way to 6 out of 6 bars) when I switch on my headlights.

When the lights are off, if I am driving at high speed or revving hard, the temp also does increase to perhaps 4 or sometimes 5 bars on a hot day.

I noticed that when I stop and leave the engine running when the temperature is at 4 or 5 bars, the fan does come on but for about 20 seconds and then stops. Then it will come on again for a short burst and go off again.

My understanding is that if the temp is past 3 bars, the fan should run continuously until the temp is brought down to the normal running temp.

My temperature switch is new as is my thermostat. For those of you who know me, you'll know that I only put in good stuff, in this case it was an original Mitsubishi thermostat and I think ABB switch or something of the sort.

My system's voltage when the lights are on is 13.2V at the lowest. When I'm driving without the lights its about 13.4V on average. So don't think its the alternator, but I may be wrong.

Anybody faced these problem before and have a solution for me? biggrin.gif
*
poolcarpet
post Nov 11 2013, 10:15 AM

On my way
****
Senior Member
548 posts

Joined: Sep 2005
From: Mars
Spare parts shop, ask for ori Proton. Should be around RM150 for the middle speedometer panel.

QUOTE(mo66 @ Nov 11 2013, 09:56 AM)
Hi all ... looking for iswara speedometer. Anyone got any idea where to get? Thx
*
poolcarpet
post Dec 17 2013, 02:17 PM

On my way
****
Senior Member
548 posts

Joined: Sep 2005
From: Mars
MYVI rim cannot, PCD 100. Iswara is PCD 114

Go look for PCD 114 rims, e.g. Perdana or Waja smile.gif

Or drop by tire shops to scout around and see smile.gif

QUOTE(jerrymouse @ Dec 17 2013, 12:00 PM)
ic ic...I think at the mean time I will focus on the tyre and aircond. Can I use Myvi 14inch Rim on my iswara? I saw a few post in Mudah.my selling good condition Myvi rim for under 1k.

For Aircond part, any shop in PJ area that offer reasonable and honest services?

Thanks again.
*
poolcarpet
post Dec 18 2013, 11:15 PM

On my way
****
Senior Member
548 posts

Joined: Sep 2005
From: Mars
Here's my recommendation, based on the bold sentence below. Please DON'T waste money on VS or grounding. Just maintain the car well, use original proton parts, and keep it stock standard. It will be good enough for you to get from point A to point B but do take extra precaution when driving, it's not exactly the safest or toughest car on the road.... yawn.gif

Once you've saved up enough money, you can then opt to get another car based on your needs.

Hope you're not offended by the frank suggestion smile.gif

QUOTE(k3lvinNdad @ Dec 18 2013, 10:22 PM)
My 1st car also and the reason i choose this is because tight in budget.

So i was looking to what should i do with it to improve it to become better with minimal cost.
so far my list is only:
VS
Grounding
*
This post has been edited by poolcarpet: Dec 18 2013, 11:16 PM
poolcarpet
post Dec 18 2013, 11:39 PM

On my way
****
Senior Member
548 posts

Joined: Sep 2005
From: Mars
Sorry, my personal point of view - if you can't accurately measure it, then you won't know whether it works. So before considering whatever add ons, have you accurately dyno-ed your car (which will cost $$$$)? tongue.gif So in the end, it's a waste of $$ to install VS/grounding/bla bla bla and you will just feel the placebo effect.

Anyway, just my comment, feel free to ponder or disregard smile.gif

QUOTE(k3lvinNdad @ Dec 18 2013, 11:36 PM)
...will cause the system to be more efficient there for better performance.
*
poolcarpet
post Dec 26 2013, 10:00 AM

On my way
****
Senior Member
548 posts

Joined: Sep 2005
From: Mars
For certain bulbs, you can try using LED smile.gif E.g. interior cabin light smile.gif Example here



QUOTE(Albert B @ Dec 26 2013, 09:21 AM)
As mentioned by k3lvinNdad, just bring the sample to the spare parts shop, this also applies to all other bulbs like the boot light, ceiling light, instrument cluster, small bulb in headlamp etc
*
poolcarpet
post Jan 8 2014, 01:28 AM

On my way
****
Senior Member
548 posts

Joined: Sep 2005
From: Mars
I know ori Proton lower arm costs RM150 each... not sure about just the bushes..

QUOTE(k3lvinNdad @ Jan 7 2014, 10:35 PM)
Thanks for the advise, but if let say is lower arm bushes, how much normally will it cost?
or how much normally bushes cost? rclxub.gif
*
poolcarpet
post Jan 8 2014, 12:04 PM

On my way
****
Senior Member
548 posts

Joined: Sep 2005
From: Mars
RM220 each?!! that's approaching Japan models lower arm prices already... (made in Japan some more)

QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Jan 8 2014, 03:38 AM)
hmm gotten mine for 220 each just recently, raised price?
*
poolcarpet
post Jan 10 2014, 04:58 PM

On my way
****
Senior Member
548 posts

Joined: Sep 2005
From: Mars
should be higher gear... e.g. 4th or even 5th gear.

if first gear also don't stall immediately, it means clutch is REALLY REALLY REALLY GONE.. tongue.gif but if it doesn't stall at higher gears, it also means not so good already...

QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Jan 10 2014, 02:52 PM)
find empty area to test:
gear 1, and just release clutch.

if the engine stalls immediately, then clutch is good else then may need to check/replace
*
poolcarpet
post Jan 10 2014, 05:01 PM

On my way
****
Senior Member
548 posts

Joined: Sep 2005
From: Mars
normal RM10 won't be nice fitting. plus it looks lighter and 'cheaper'. if you don't care about the appearance so much, it will do fine. however, be careful when washing car, don't end up cutting your own hand from the plastic edges sticking out.

Bosch... i think is closer to ori spec. well, you get what you pay for, if possible, go for ori. If need to save some $$ esp. if maybe it might drop again or get damaged again, just get the cheapo RM10, both works just fine to signal and indicate to others which way you want to turn.

QUOTE(gemini sharti @ Jan 10 2014, 02:45 PM)
Roads at Johor Bahru nowdays are full of potholes. It's like road on the potholes not potholes on the road  mad.gif
2 days ago after driving around Johor Bahru town, I realized that my front left turn signal's cover went missing. I'm sure I didn't hit anything so I guess it just fell of.

[attachmentid=3809520]

As usual got 2 versions at the spare part shop, 'normal wan' RM10 & Bosch RM45. What's the difference eh?
*

3 Pages < 1 2 3 >Top
Topic ClosedOptions
 

Change to:
| Lo-Fi Version
0.0288sec    1.14    7 queries    GZIP Disabled
Time is now: 16th December 2025 - 12:44 AM