Thanks for the answer, I'll repace those bad caps soon as possible. Sadly for the caps digikey part no: P11613-ND is no longer available, which is the best alternative for it? Including the exact part no if possible. Thank you.

Enha

There are several Rubycons, but digi-key specifically recommends the Rubycon 200VXH470MEFCSN22X30 Digi-Key part Number 1189-2838-ND as a direct replacement for the P11613-ND and is also a snap in type. The size and specs are essentially the same. Be sure and use extreme care soldering/desoldering so as not to damage the feed throughs. Low heat with flux helps. The cost for these caps is 3.39 usd. Good luck.

Hello,

I recently start to have problems with S750 PSU. I repair it over the years 3 times and now it's 4th time. My issue is that after an amount of time the PSU shut down and came back to idle after about 15 min. I suspect the issue is related the fact that the TOP243Y was entering in thermal shutdown and came back only after it cools itself. I changed couple of suspect components and measured all capacitors and all seams to be fine.
However I have one question that someone around here might be able to answer. The PSU is running fine now but the L aluminum heat sink is very, very hot. I measure it with my fluke multimeter and it stay at about 70 degrees which is very hot. This is only when the main power (70V/24V) is on.
So the big question is if this kind of temperature is normal or not. In my experience is a little too high especially if the case is closed and heat is not dissipated actively. At least maybe to confirm my readings of temperature.

Regards,
Cristian

Hi guys,

I had raised an issue on my Creative Megaworks THX 550 few months ago somewhere in Feb 2015 (post #195). However due to my job i do not have time to do research to fix the problem. I am also not a good technician.

I think its on the fuse or glue issue. Anyone knows where i can get such service to repair my speaker? Or anyone can help for a fee?

Thank you.

Hello,

my name is Jonathan.

I read your post on reparing the Creative Gigaworks s750 Subwoofer and was so delighted and relieved to find you!!

I have the exact same speaker system and my Gigaworks s750 Subwoofer (Model# MF7010) just went bad.

IN FACT, I BOUGHT ANOTHER SET JUST TO REPLACE THE SUBWOOFER BUT IT TURNED OUT TO HAVE A SHORT SOMEWHERE!(thats what i get from ebay!!)

anyway, with the first Subwoofer, I get no LFE Frequencies/sounds at all. It litterally just happened all of the sudden. Its been working for almost a year.

I can hear the subwoofer speaker working but there is no umph! Low Frequency Sound being produced anymore.

Anyway i will pay you hansomely if i could please send you my Subwoofer and you could do everything you did in your Post on the repair. Change the capacitors and standoffs etc.........

Please! i beg you!!!

let me know

you can call me at 786 348 3174 if you prefer to talk on the phone.

thanks

Sorry to disappoint you jblanc03, but the process explained here in these many pages, is intended to help those who are so endeared to their Gigaworks s750 subwoofer, that they are willing to spend the time and effort to attempt the restoration; a project which can be very time intensive and frustrating, as you may learn from the forum discussions here. The help and recommendations given by this forum can only be appreciated by those who experience their own unique problems as they progress towards their separate goals. While we will try and help each other along the way, there are no guarantees that yours will be a success, however, I believe that if you read and have the technical ability to persevere, you have a good chance of getting your system working again. Please post any questions you may have and we will be do our best to assist. Good Luck.

lex still in business?

Hello, Can you tell me in what way could be a problem?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4tFY61IPh-w&feature=youtu.be
Thank you for answering

This post has been edited by fevaelektro: Jul 21 2015, 06:03 AM

Hi, glad to have found this. Could anyone please tell me the value of the cap in C5? I accidentally scraped it off while removing the degraded glue. Appreciate it, thanks!



This post has been edited by mikoyreales: Oct 10 2015, 07:45 AM

Hi, I received your email and found your photo of the board and located C5. I see that you destroyed the cap and that there is no hope to recover and replace it. Also that there is no information on the same cap on my board that can offer any help to determine the value of the cap. First I would try to clean up the area and remove any of the old cap fragments that are still attached to the board. Then when you finish the glue removal and put everything back together, power up and find out what you have working/not working especially checking the inputs/outputs of the board. You may also try replacing the removed cap with a leaded cap; a small leaded wafer/paper cap .1 mfd 50v non polarized or one of your choosing to test for its effect upon the outputs. If you don't think you can work with SMT soldering techniques then just leave it for now or until you can find someone to do it. The important thing is to be sure that there are no pieces left from the damaged cap that would short out the circuit or allow a path for dc current to flow into other parts of the circuitry.

The glue still on the board shown in your photo does not look degraded or necessary for removal. I do not know the condition of the whole board, but if all the glue appears the same, then I would not attempt any more removal on this board to avoid further damage to the board. The only glue that requires removal is the darkened, yellow or dark brown and/or spotted. If the glue is white and looks clean like what it appears to be in your photo, I would leave it alone.

I don't know if this helps much, but it is going to be hard to determine what impact this cap will have on the overall audio operation of the speaker system, if any, until you have everything else up and ready to go, especially the main power supply.

I just registered my account on this great forum to say Thank You to Lex and to everyone who did their part in helping others to repair faulty Gigaworks S750 subwoofers!
Thanks to the pictures and clear and simple explanations, I learned so much, and managed to repair my S750 as well!

Removing that awful, sticky, degraded glue was the most frustrating part of the process, and although it was my first time in replacing capacitors, I did it and had fun!

Keep this topic alive for future generations!

Hi need some advice but it's regarding Edifier C3. A technician diagnosed that the amp I.c. is spoilt and that he can't repair it. I asked inter-asia and they do sell the whole board for 150+. Do u think it's worth paying for a new board?

very nice info!

Hi all (Is this thread still alive/relevant?)

I've got real issues with C62 (47uf, 25v - Upgraded to 50v)

Every time I power the system on this cap pops.. The regulator U7, D9, D13, R9, C7 and the optocoupler have all been replaced (with equally good/better parts) but still this cap doesn't like the power being turned on

Any ideas?

Hi bro.. i have a z5500 which the subwoofer went dead. Nobody seems to be able to help me repair it. Will you be able to provide service for it?

Hello! Does anyone hav original pinout for the transformer (ETD -29, placed in power supply) to share? I purchased a new one from "Myrra" and find out pin configuration is not the same..

hi , i have same problem but in other parts



i can't find it anywhere even in google so what is another replacement for this transistors ? or mosfet ?
please help , i have to replace one of them so i need it so badly .
can anyone tell me what is the Amper of this or full info about this so i can find replacement for it ?

i need to replace one of this transistors or mosfet look at the photos and tell me which one should i buy and its good for replacement . ty for help me i really want to fix mine i really need it .


look at this photo which one is good for replacement ?

sorry for asking again can i use SMD cap instead of normal cap as well or no ?

i think this thread is almost dead or something !