Those are diacs actually. Never thought those on the main power section (for power amplifiers) could affect the standby functions. I guess the MCU also monitors the main power section as well. Will take note of that...

Usually those ASUS cards are rated better than Creative ones. The only Creative soundcard that is considered fine (can be recommended) is the Titanium HD. Others like those from ESI Audio (which now owns AudioTrak) and Echo Audio are also recommended as they are considered HiFi and studio quality. You can also use an external DAC, either using SPDIF (optical, coaxial) or USB connection. You can try inquiring here as well: Special Interest -> Home Entertainment -> Audiophiles -> Headphone Amplifier and DAC Recommendation, portables, desktops, amps, dac, lai (Headphones)...

Can be used for ceramics, but not recommended for the "lytics" (short for electrolytic capacitors). You do not want to boil the electrolytes inside those capacitors.

This post has been edited by lex: Oct 7 2013, 03:34 PM

The usual troubleshooting procedures, for example check for failed components and check whether there is output voltage on the secondary standby side (if none then check voltage at transformer, then if none then check voltage at primary standby side, etc... etc...)

This post has been edited by lex: Oct 17 2013, 02:38 PM

For capacitors, look for brands like Nichicon, Panasonic (also known as Matsushita), Rubycon, Nippon Chemi-Con (also known as United Chemi-Con, formerly Marcon), and Sanyo (nowadays known as Suncon).

So far had not had to replace any resistors, except for that 0 Ohm link. As for resistors, depends on the original resistor being replaced and should follow the wattage of the original resistor (in other words, the size of the resistor determines the wattage). The diode is pretty much run-of-the-mill 1N4004, which is a very common diode.

That one very much depends on whether you're going to replace them, and/or depends on the fault/problem itself. The "funky" look is mostly leftover excess flux and not degraded glue. If any of those MOSFETs had blown/failed then you will need to replace them.

Try online stores such as RS Components, Farnell/Newark/element14, Mouser and Digikey. They are guranteed to sell original capacitors (and not those Pasar Road counterfeits).

This post has been edited by lex: Dec 4 2013, 01:41 PM

Just change all those 85C capacitors to ones rated for higher temperatures, such as 105C ones (as shown in my guide here). Preferable to use those with high ripple current handling and/or low ESR type, as this speaker uses switching mode power supply...

That's not a "ceramic resistor", but a ceramic disc capacitor. Just replace with another one, of the same capacitance. Usually should be 100nF or 0.1uF, 50V or higher.

This one is incorrect as its rather wider than the original. The diameter should be 22mm otherwise the capacitors will not fit together. Should be this 22mm diameter version (if using Mouser): Mouser > Passive Components > Capacitors > Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors > Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Snap In > Panasonic EET-ED2D471BA...

Incorrect one again, as the lead pitch is 3.5mm. Should get the version with 5mm lead pitch. Digikey > Capacitors > Aluminum Capacitors > UHE1V221MPD6...

Look for Nichicon HE series, like this one: Digikey > Capacitors > Aluminum Capacitors > UHE1E470MDD.

If you are talking about the cracked ceramic disc capcitor replacement then it would work. Like I've mentioned earlier just any 100nF or 0.1uF ceramic capacitor of 50V or higher rating can be used (even those cheaper but awful Y5V ceramics), since this capacitor is non-critical (functions as low impedance side for those original general purpose 85C capacitors). However, for the capacitor that is very close to the heatsink (which is actually part of the switched mode power supply feedback section) then stick to the capacitor I've specified (for stability reasons use either X8R, X7R or NP0/C0G ceramics).

This post has been edited by lex: Dec 6 2013, 03:45 PM

Yups, I do repair many types of speaker systems. What was the actual brand and model (as can't find any references to the brand "Power Studio")? Also what was the problem with them? Anyway, just PM me for more details...

After looking up this model, looks to be quite a complex speaker system (even has custom software to remote control it). Possibly has integrated MCU and DSP for its crossover and external output connections. By the way, what was wrong with it? Can describe the symptoms?

Sounds much like the power supply section blew, possibly some weak, failed and/or faulty components. Usually should be fixable/repairable...

Yups, can use the same capacitor (that more expensive X8R high temperature ceramic) for both.

Either ones should be fine, just different packaging from the details on the website. Another option would be Nichicon PW series (slightly higher specifications than Nichicon PS series).

Their specifications are much lower than the Nichicon CS series. Here are some similar capacitors (with way better specifications than the ones you've chosen): Mouser > Passive Components > Capacitors > Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors > Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded > Panasonic EEU-ED2W680 (used in the 2nd repair) and Mouser > Passive Components > Capacitors > Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors > Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded > Panasonic EEU-EE2W680 (used in the 3rd repair which was not shown here). Both of them are also high ripple current handling plus long life...

This post has been edited by lex: Dec 7 2013, 12:54 AM

That's typical as the chemical from the degraded glue has "eaten" into the solder resist layer (that green thingy). Usually its still workable, as long as you did not break any fine traces. Make sure those traces are still connected to each other, and check for possible shorts with surrounding copper areas (e.g. bits of copper layers pulled up and mangled). There are large areas of copper that is mostly either (hot) GND or +350VDC (or +154VDC for U.S version). Removing degraded glue from that resistor (encased in heat shrink tubing) should have been a piece of cake (and I did not have to remove that resistor) but not sure how you've gotten that "ugly" (lots of scrape marks can be seen). What tool did you use?

Yups, I can repair that Razer Mako speaker system. Have already fixed/repaired 3 units so far, and all have the same ticking sound syndrome (plus other problems).

Must have patience, padawan. As mentioned some time ago (here: Post #11), degraded glue removal can be very tedious and have to proceed slowly (and carefully/meticulously) to avoid damaging/breaking PCB traces. When using a sharp knife, try avoid directly touching the PCB (otherwise there will be deep scrape and scratch marks, and possibly damaging/breaking fine PCB traces)...

This post has been edited by lex: Dec 13 2013, 04:31 PM

Usually I would use a flat head screwdriver, and very rarely I would use anything sharp like a knife and/or blade. Often have to proceed slowly and carefully (bit by bit on difficult patches) thus must have patience also as you do not want to damage any fine PCB traces.

This subwoofer power supply is switched mode type, thus the filter capacitors (at the secondary output section) should have been those low ESR or low impedance type, such as those I've chosen like Rubycon ZLJ and Rubycon ZLH series. That Rubycon YXA series is a standard (general purpose) capacitors with low ripple current handling. However Nippon Chemicon KMF series would be much better as its targeted as low impedance product, and had better/higher ripple current handling than Rubycon YXA series. Anyway, Rubycon YXA should have been already EOL'ed. Are those counterfeit capacitors? Diameter and lead pitch/spacing also goes into the capacitor selection. Does those capacitors have the correct diameter (12.5mm or less) and lead pitch/spacing (5mm)?

With Digikey, besides Rubycon ZLH and Rubycon ZLJ, there are choices there (with 12.5mm diameter and 5mm lead pitch/spacing) such as Nichicon HE, Nippon Chemi-con KZE, Rubycon ZL and Rubycon YXG.

Have to check the 4th unit first (was sent all the way from another country) for that C40 capacitor value. If that fuse blew then there must have been quite a short somewhere. Also those burned capacitors may indicate excessive ripples and voltage surges on the power rails...

Better check the MOSFETs, due to that blown fuse. Sometimes failed MOSFETs show no signs but can be shorted internally (usually between the gate and the source, and/or between drain and source). Also check all fusible links (those zero Ohm thingies). As for that list, all looks good though that Nichicon CY is a little skinnier/smaller than the Nichicon CS I've chosen. Just make sure all have correct diameter, lead spacing and proper height (not too tall until touching the toasty heatsink, which will shorten the lifespan of the capacitors).

This post has been edited by lex: Jan 23 2014, 09:48 PM

For those components on the power board, then check Post #37...

There could be components with voltage break down (which usually would require an insulation/breakdown tester), especially those non-electrolytic capacitors and MOSFETs (leaky transistor). Can use the series light bulb method to check for shorts and/or breakdown (if insulation tester not available at the moment). As for the amplifier boards, there should be another regulator there (usually a Buck switching type) for the BASH power amplifier I.Cs thus do check them (for shorts and other failed components)...

This post has been edited by lex: Feb 5 2014, 04:13 PM

Try replacing the DIACs near the main power section (where the bigger SMPS transformer is located)...

As for fixing that solder pad through hole problem, check my previous/earlier reply here: Special Interest -> Home Entertainment -> Audiophiles ->Creative GigaWorks S750 7.1 speaker repair, A short guide and info with pictures... (PC Audio) -> Post #21. Looking at the comments, you also need to learn some basic of electronic repairs particularly understanding the circuitary (in other words able to read where and how the components are connected, as well as tracing out the paths). One side/lead/leg of the capacitor is connected to the top side layer via that through hole. For double sided boards, usually each through hole has a connection to both top and bottom sides of the circuit board (there's a tinned copper tube inside the hole).

What is the speaker brand and model?

Not every capacitor lead/leg is connected like that. Cannot simply assume, always check the connections of component first (as you do not want create unwanted shorts and wrong connections). Again, re-quote from my earlier post here: Special Interest -> Home Entertainment -> Audiophiles ->Creative GigaWorks S750 7.1 speaker repair, A short guide and info with pictures... (PC Audio) -> Post #90... That's right, read, trace and understand the connections....

Have you removed all the degraded glue in the first place? Did you properly check the connections properly repaired on those damages through holes (requires a multimeter)? Also try replacing all the capacitors, not just those 4 big ones only....

This post has been edited by lex: Feb 15 2014, 03:12 PM