Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

45 Pages « < 33 34 35 36 37 > » Bottom

Outline · [ Standard ] · Linear+

 Kelisa Club Tok V2

views
     
jeffW
post Nov 15 2015, 05:04 PM

Getting Started
**
Junior Member
149 posts

Joined: Aug 2008
Saw this in my neighborhood


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image
tankx3
post Nov 16 2015, 11:39 PM

New Member
*
Newbie
1 posts

Joined: Oct 2010
Any bro here can share change of clutch set or drive shaft at what mileage? Cost? Any symptoms before change? Thanks
jeffW
post Nov 17 2015, 12:50 PM

Getting Started
**
Junior Member
149 posts

Joined: Aug 2008
Clutch n driveshaft only change when faulty.
When clutch feel very heavy or difficult to engage gear.
Driveshaft when it make noise when cornering usually is due to cover bocor. Sands go inside.
hafazsy
post Dec 20 2015, 08:03 PM

New Member
*
Junior Member
19 posts

Joined: Jul 2015


i have 1 steering mira l7 for sell. come with airbag.
asifniz
post Dec 29 2015, 10:08 AM

New Member
*
Junior Member
31 posts

Joined: Aug 2014
Hello to all Kelisa users. I need your advice or cost estimates on Kelisa service.

I have a 2004 Kelisa 1.0 EZi, done approx 140300Km. Will go over the weekend and get the following done:

- Engine Oil Change
- Oil Filter Change
- Air Filter Change
- Engine Tuning
- Complete Brake Service (Front & Back, pads change & oil topup)
- Wheel Balance
- Wheel Alignment
- Labour Charges?

Need your suggestions on what might be the item-wise cost estimate. Thanks!!
[F]atalit[Y]
post Dec 29 2015, 10:22 AM

Casual
***
Junior Member
312 posts

Joined: Jan 2010
QUOTE(asifniz @ Dec 29 2015, 10:08 AM)
Hello to all Kelisa users. I need your advice or cost estimates on Kelisa service.

I have a 2004 Kelisa 1.0 EZi, done approx 140300Km. Will go over the weekend and get the following done:

- Engine Oil Change
- Oil Filter Change
- Air Filter Change
- Engine Tuning
- Complete Brake Service (Front & Back, pads change & oil topup)
- Wheel Balance
- Wheel Alignment
- Labour Charges?

Need your suggestions on what might be the item-wise cost estimate. Thanks!!
*
EO, Oil Filter, Air Filter - buy from shop. Cheaper by RM10-RM15 a piece.

Brake pads - RM90/set (both sides calipers I think)

Wheel balance + alignment = RM50-60

Labour - RM60 at highest since there's no craning

All in all, give at most RM300++ RM400(Semi synth EO), RM300++RM350 (Mineral). Engine tuning...never did it.

asifniz
post Dec 29 2015, 10:36 AM

New Member
*
Junior Member
31 posts

Joined: Aug 2014
QUOTE(FatalitY @ Dec 29 2015, 10:22 AM)
EO, Oil Filter, Air Filter - buy from shop. Cheaper by RM10-RM15 a piece.

Brake pads - RM90/set (both sides calipers I think)

Wheel balance + alignment  = RM50-60

Labour - RM60 at highest since there's no craning

All in all, give at most RM300++ RM400(Semi synth EO), RM300++RM350 (Mineral). Engine tuning...never did it.
*
Thanks [F]atalit[Y] for the reply!! I have got the following estimates from a shop in Shah Alam, Section 24.

1) shell helix hx5 10w30 rm65.09
2) oil filter rm11.32
3) air filter rm30
4) spark plug rm40
5) throttle body cleaning and tuning rm80
6) front brake pad rm70
7) service rear brake rm20
8) wheel balancing rm20
9) wheel alignment rm15
10) adjust camber rm40
11) labour for service rm10

Total coming at approx RM401.4. Should be OK?
[F]atalit[Y]
post Dec 29 2015, 10:44 AM

Casual
***
Junior Member
312 posts

Joined: Jan 2010
QUOTE(asifniz @ Dec 29 2015, 10:36 AM)
Thanks [F]atalit[Y] for the reply!! I have got the following estimates from a shop in Shah Alam, Section 24.

1) shell helix hx5 10w30 rm65.09
2) oil filter rm11.32
3) air filter rm30
4) spark plug rm40
5) throttle body cleaning and tuning rm80
6) front brake pad rm70
7) service rear brake rm20
8) wheel balancing rm20
9) wheel alignment rm15
10) adjust camber rm40
11) labour for service rm10

Total coming at approx RM401.4. Should be OK?
*
Okay kot.
Bazinga!
post Jan 10 2016, 02:30 AM

New Member
*
Junior Member
18 posts

Joined: Dec 2013
From: Tempat Havoc Havoc


Hi, need some advice. Recently my kenari (kenari/kelisa engine same, so thought no harm asking here) engine oil leaking into the spark plug chamber.
went to shop, mech tell me to change rocker cover/valve cover terus. i've read and also heard before that there's another more cost efficient way which is just to replace the plug seals.
is it recommended to just change the plug seals instead of the whole cover?
thanks in advance
SUSmrao
post Jan 23 2016, 11:52 AM

New Member
*
Newbie
13 posts

Joined: Jan 2016
QUOTE(Bazinga! @ Jan 10 2016, 02:30 AM)
Hi, need some advice. Recently my kenari (kenari/kelisa engine same, so thought no harm asking here) engine oil leaking into the spark plug chamber.
went to shop, mech tell me to change rocker cover/valve cover terus. i've read and also heard before that there's another more cost efficient way which is just to replace the plug seals.
is it recommended to just change the plug seals instead of the whole cover?
thanks in advance
*
Share with you my experience. If you factor in your time, then the most efficient way is just replace the whole cover (cost RM100++). You can do it yourself at home, just need M10 spanner.

Yes it is possible to just replace just the seals but it is a real pain. I tried to save cost with mine too. The seals are sandwiched between the aluminium rocker cover and a steel plate, which is a stupid design to begin with. They are held together by aluminium welds. You need to break these welds, remove the plate, replace the seals and weld the plate back on. As they are aluminium welds, you'll need to find someone who can weld aluminium (radiator shops are the most common). After you go through all this hassle, you'll probably find that it's still leaking, as it's very difficult to weld the steel plate tight enough.

If you need a temporary fix, you may remove the cover, clean and degrease it carefully and cover all the mating surfaces with gasket-maker. This will only last awhile, though.

I suggest you just get a new rocker cover. To replace it, remove the intake duct and whatever else attached to the cover. Remove the black spark plug cover and the igniters. Then unbolt the cover itself (should be 5 x M10 bolts, I believe). Untighten them together, don't just remove one by one. Remove the rocker cover and put new one. When you tighten the bolts, DO NOT over-tighten. These are aluminium parts, so it will be soft (easy to tighten). It will keep getting tighter and tighter until it breaks suddenly. Lightly hand tight is enough.

Or you could just get a shop to do it. It is a 15 minute job so don't let them scam you.

Bear in mind, due to the rubbish design, your brand new cover might still leak (happened to me). So test it out after you install it and make sure you keep all the receipts.

This post has been edited by mrao: Jan 23 2016, 11:53 AM
SUSmrao
post Jan 23 2016, 12:06 PM

New Member
*
Newbie
13 posts

Joined: Jan 2016
wta: Will Myvi dampers (shock absorber) fit on a Kelisa? Or are there any good height adjustable dampers for Kelisa?

Recently got some Tanabe (DF210) lowering springs. They are made for MYVI but was too low for the original owner so I installed them on my Kelisa. They are a big improvement over stock and only drop ~10mm. Problem is they are longer than stock and need to be compressed quite abit before they go in, thus I am losing much of the 'comfort' portion of these coils.

I don't want to cut off the lower spring perch and weld it back lower on the current shocks (dangerous!). Was wondering if stock Myvi shocks would fit. Otherwise I I'm willing to spend a little more to get some height adjustable shocks, just not sure what's out there on the market.
s@ni
post Jan 24 2016, 05:58 PM

Gambar Di Lesen Kereta Saya
*******
Senior Member
2,842 posts

Joined: Jun 2005
From: Seasaw



QUOTE(mrao @ Jan 23 2016, 11:52 AM)
Share with you my experience. If you factor in your time, then the most efficient way is just replace the whole cover (cost RM100++). You can do it yourself at home, just need M10 spanner.

Yes it is possible to just replace just the seals but it is a real pain. I tried to save cost with mine too. The seals are sandwiched between the aluminium rocker cover and a steel plate, which is a stupid design to begin with. They are held together by aluminium welds. You need to break these welds, remove the plate, replace the seals and weld the plate back on. As they are aluminium welds, you'll need to find someone who can weld aluminium (radiator shops are the most common). After you go through all this hassle, you'll probably find that it's still leaking, as it's very difficult to weld the steel plate tight enough.

If you need a temporary fix, you may remove the cover, clean and degrease it carefully and cover all the mating surfaces with gasket-maker. This will only last awhile, though.

I suggest you just get a new rocker cover. To replace it, remove the intake duct and whatever else attached to the cover. Remove the black spark plug cover and the igniters. Then unbolt the cover itself (should be 5 x M10 bolts, I believe). Untighten them together, don't just remove one by one. Remove the rocker cover and put new one. When you tighten the bolts, DO NOT over-tighten. These are aluminium parts, so it will be soft (easy to tighten). It will keep getting tighter and tighter until it breaks suddenly. Lightly hand tight is enough.

Or you could just get a shop to do it. It is a 15 minute job so don't let them scam you.

Bear in mind, due to the rubbish design, your brand new cover might still leak (happened to me). So test it out after you install it and make sure you keep all the receipts.
*
Thanx for your elaborate explanation. Really like to read it
Bazinga!
post Feb 4 2016, 11:04 AM

New Member
*
Junior Member
18 posts

Joined: Dec 2013
From: Tempat Havoc Havoc


QUOTE(mrao @ Jan 23 2016, 11:52 AM)
Share with you my experience. If you factor in your time, then the most efficient way is just replace the whole cover (cost RM100++). You can do it yourself at home, just need M10 spanner.

Yes it is possible to just replace just the seals but it is a real pain. I tried to save cost with mine too. The seals are sandwiched between the aluminium rocker cover and a steel plate, which is a stupid design to begin with. They are held together by aluminium welds. You need to break these welds, remove the plate, replace the seals and weld the plate back on. As they are aluminium welds, you'll need to find someone who can weld aluminium (radiator shops are the most common). After you go through all this hassle, you'll probably find that it's still leaking, as it's very difficult to weld the steel plate tight enough.

If you need a temporary fix, you may remove the cover, clean and degrease it carefully and cover all the mating surfaces with gasket-maker. This will only last awhile, though.

I suggest you just get a new rocker cover. To replace it, remove the intake duct and whatever else attached to the cover. Remove the black spark plug cover and the igniters. Then unbolt the cover itself (should be 5 x M10 bolts, I believe). Untighten them together, don't just remove one by one. Remove the rocker cover and put new one. When you tighten the bolts, DO NOT over-tighten. These are aluminium parts, so it will be soft (easy to tighten). It will keep getting tighter and tighter until it breaks suddenly. Lightly hand tight is enough.

Or you could just get a shop to do it. It is a 15 minute job so don't let them scam you.

Bear in mind, due to the rubbish design, your brand new cover might still leak (happened to me). So test it out after you install it and make sure you keep all the receipts.
*
thank you very much for the explanation. Will get it done soon then
mikehwy
post Feb 4 2016, 05:53 PM

10k Club
********
All Stars
17,100 posts

Joined: Mar 2005


finally I have sold my kelisa. I simply dont have time to maintain it anymore. sigh....


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image
tankx3
post Feb 8 2016, 06:59 PM

New Member
*
Newbie
1 posts

Joined: Oct 2010
QUOTE(mikehwy @ Feb 4 2016, 05:53 PM)
finally I have sold my kelisa. I simply dont have time to maintain it anymore. sigh....
*
It must be heartbreaking..

what u mean by maintain.. a lot parts broken down? Frequently go workshop?

what's your new ride?☺
[F]atalit[Y]
post Feb 8 2016, 07:40 PM

Casual
***
Junior Member
312 posts

Joined: Jan 2010
My Kelisa also very difficult to maintain...keeps falling apart. =( Any idea where can I go to get good exhaust repair? Mine I think pecah already and it vibrates with bloody irritating sound.
tankx3
post Feb 9 2016, 10:49 PM

New Member
*
Newbie
1 posts

Joined: Oct 2010
Few years ago, I repaired mine..
I think hook broken?
(Forgot what part replaced) costs RM190
How is the car after the overhaul now?
Break in period over?
Have u replace clutch set before?
What brand better?

This post has been edited by tankx3: Feb 9 2016, 10:51 PM
[F]atalit[Y]
post Feb 10 2016, 09:52 AM

Casual
***
Junior Member
312 posts

Joined: Jan 2010
QUOTE(tankx3 @ Feb 9 2016, 10:49 PM)
Few years ago, I repaired mine..
I think hook broken?
(Forgot what part replaced) costs RM190
How is the car after the overhaul now?
Break in period over?
Have u replace clutch set before?
What brand better?
*
I think mine is the inside rusted as it's a 10+ yrs old car. So planning to change the whole exhaust. Definitely a no no to the ah beng kind. Hahhaha.

After overhaul it's good...better response and FC is great. More than 400km per full tank. Clutch set not yet but preparing to change it to really good sets. Dunno what brand though.
grayfox5129
post Feb 19 2016, 08:40 PM

Getting Started
**
Junior Member
89 posts

Joined: Jan 2009


Hi all,

Just bought my Kelisa for few weeks ago in the standard pekak condition.
Just to ask you recommendation for nicest sport rim and tyre size/spec to be fitted in.
Some says 5.5jj is enough, some says 6.0jj is better look. which one you guys think better?
tankx3
post Mar 8 2016, 12:02 AM

New Member
*
Newbie
1 posts

Joined: Oct 2010
QUOTE(FatalitY @ Dec 30 2013, 11:20 PM)
Nope...many say 10/40 is too heavy for the car. But if you are talking bout really ensuring your engine is good, I'd go for 10/40. I've tried 10/30 but the car will just make tonnes of noise after I hit 150kmph.

Shell 10/40 - Noticeably good response, but after a while it becomes sluggish.
Mobil 10/40 - Same as above but longer duration of it being good before sluggish
Castrol Magnatech 10/40 - Engine gives a deeper sound but much more quiet and response is hella good.

I will service it at least 1,000km before it expires. The usual changes...oil filter use the normal P2, then change oil with Castrol (3rd time using this good ol chap). Oh....always pump your tyres 10-15% above your normal pressure. It reduces your FC by 5-10%.

Other than that I do the usual...pedal to the metal shiet thingy...but still goood fc. Hitting 400km/full tank on average. My car is all stockies too.
*
Hi bro,

How's your exhaust issue? Fixed?
Just sharing, my 592km tank is achieved when just change to hankook tyres. Now after 2 EO change, I swap my CC5 to the front. Just change my clutch set to exedy (mileage 217k) and fix engine top leaking issue by cleaning and changing the seals. Now acceleration is better and aircon cooler.
Next EO change plan to do engine flush (I'm using perodua semi 5w30) as there is black colour thingy building up.
anyone did car paint recently? How much it costs and how's the workmanship?
Thanks


45 Pages « < 33 34 35 36 37 > » Top
 

Change to:
| Lo-Fi Version
0.0352sec    0.68    6 queries    GZIP Disabled
Time is now: 11th December 2025 - 05:28 PM