. Suprima S, anyone?

Bo lui. . Honestly I think the car looks very nice but personally I think that they should have had honeycomb grilles instead to fill the rear bumper at the sides rather than a solid black piece of vaguely shaped plastic.

Anyway, so far DIY'd power steering fluid with Toyota's ATF-IV and there's no longer any trickling sound or whirring sound anymore from the steering wheel. It was quite messy though since I had to deal with a square can rather than a bottle.

Still haven't gotten around to changing the brake fluid though cause I have been spending a lot on food and kai kai, and also cause might have to rebalance the rims if they are removed since after changing tyres they somehow can't be centered without a center cone. For my ceratec experience the engine seems pretty smooth so far, but is still very loud and rough over 5K RPM. Below that it feels very smooth.

My sincere advise? Cancel your order and get a used H-line instead. Don't get B-Line or you'll probably regret. They're fairly cheap nowadays even for 2 years or less cars (based on recent searches on oto.my). Oh and, do yourself a favor and go around looking for panel gaps and paint color difference. Spend some time knocking the panels of the car as well. Any sound difference may indicate a possible repair job on the car.

Well, aside from getting ABS + EBD + two airbags on a H-Line you get better sound-proofing as well. These are the things that would make me go for a H-Line instead of an Medium or Base Line model.

Anyway, since you can't actually do anything about the car selection anymore, I'd say keep your tyres in a good shape or you'll be shitting yourself every time you need to perform hard braking.

Around RM37000 ~ RM43000 for around 2 ~ 3 years old cars.

Just a note to take on when changing the car battery yourself. Get your key ready or you'll have the car blasting away at you. I'm not sure how to deactivate the alarm via the panic button as if I press it it'll sound after a second or two again, so what you can do is to push down the rod that detects if the hood is open, lock and unlock the car and you'll be set.

. Aside from solving the whirring and trickling sound(when turned max to either left or right), the gurgling sound when the steering is maxed is also much more muted. So far so good with Toyota ATF-IV, which based on my research should be similar (or equivalent) to Dexron III with more additives, so therefore is compatible with the power steering system based on my deductions.

Fuel filter is normally every 60k KM, but if you want you can change it at your next car service schedule. It's not that expensive anyway, below RM40 if I'm not mistaken. Don't forget the drain plug gasket, and as for brake fluid through my searches on the internet you should require less than 1L of brake fluid to flush + fill the reservoir, but it'll probably be a good idea to bring extra anyway, just not too much since storing brake fluid isn't a good idea as it absorbs moisture over a period of time.

Would you like to try the single fan radiator style? Bad thing to have if you plan to do night time robberies or break ins. vvhHHHHHHHHHHHOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM

Do you mind taking a picture of your GC configuration in your Persona? I want to reconfirm the grounding points especially for the area around the battery.

If you're close to Sungai Buloh or able to travel there, there are quite a few paint shops for you to choose from. The shops are located after Kota Damansara around Jalan Teknologi ( Taman Industri Sungai Buloh).

And speaking of respraying I still can't let go of my past experience with the shop .

This post has been edited by TDUEnthusiast: Sep 1 2013, 03:59 PM

Paint quality is not bad. Workmanship is definitely terrible.

I'm not sure how many caps the fuel tank has, but there is one just right under the rear seat (which can be taken out very easily). You'll have to pry it off with a flat head screw driver, then you'll get direct access to the fuel pump, which seems to be quite hard to take out judging from how many tools the mechanics had to go through just to get the screws to budge for mine.

This post has been edited by TDUEnthusiast: Sep 2 2013, 05:20 PM

Seriously? I don't recall reading anything related to an impeding petrol price increase. But if so it's time to switch to kancil. At least it has stronger brakes.

. Found the news on mkini. Oh well. Kancil it is.

Yus.

Best size for kancil is what?

Enter kancil bulk with me

Time to buy an engine hoisting tool already. Strip + clean with soap and zip and water.

This post has been edited by TDUEnthusiast: Sep 3 2013, 09:11 AM

Ada ceratec ma. Someone else try la .

Yus. Lambda Primer is a type of engine flush that allows you to drive with it slushing around the engine without any issue. I'm using Ceratec and so far what I can say is the engine is definitely smoother and less noisy but over 5K RPM it's still rough as hell.

Engine oil totally black when it was poured out after using it. Before that I check the dip-stick prior to the servicing the oil was semi yellow semi black.