And damn I saw a Black Suprima personally today around Kelana Jaya. It looks damn nice. Pictures don't do the rear justice seriously.

I suppose the quality should be much better than previously, though probably still not up to the ultimate standard .

I tried the lambda oil primer. What I can say is it does the job as it should. Never tried threebond before cause tarak wang and also since the throttle body has been cleaned not very long ago by another workshop.

Gun Metal is still better for me though.

Wah. Only rich people can have .

Resisting against damage

You should try the brakes on mine with the car fully loaded with a 1xx KG guy and four guys averaging at 60 ~70KG per person. Terrible. I have to depress the brake pedal maxed out to get the braking power I get from pushing like half of it with just one or two people in the car at low speeds.

This post has been edited by TDUEnthusiast: Sep 13 2013, 06:51 PM

B-Line only . Each time braking with a full load below 60KM/H is terror. Go too slow people behind tarak suka. Go too fast I'll probably become the passenger of the car in front.

So far my dad went surveying around and the price to change to all round disk brakes is over RM1000, so.... tarak beli. Haven't checked brake master cylinder thing. Brakes too strong with no ABS is also an issue .

Don't think so. Not very clear but it involves GSR brakes or something.

Rm1000+++ for changing rear to disk. I'm currently still using the Bendix MKT pads, and they're definitely much better than the pads that came with the car (Mintye) as they don't cause the wheels to lock easily whereas the Mintye pad caused the wheels to lock like there's no tomorrow even without maximum brake pedal depression. I guess I'll look into changing the master pump cylinder or the front brakes first.

. Collected the VS from the PosLaju. Installation was pretty smooth, albeit a little scary with the semi-fusing of the +ve battery and VS terminal, and mini sparks afterwards when trying to screw the thing in. Haven't tested it yet though since I have no reason to be driving out at the moment.

Engine Oil - Liqui Moly? Torco? Castrol? - RM100 ~ RM200 depending on whether it's semi-synthetic or fully. Can ask kennywee92 for Torco / Liqui Moly engine oils. Otherwise can give Tesco a visit to see if they have offers for fully synthetic oils like Castrol Edge.

Oil Filter - Proton original (blue color) - RM10 ~ RM15

Drain Plug Gasket - Spare parts shop - Should be a few ringgit only. Ask workshop to give and they'll chop you with their price. I got charged RM15 cause abah insist don't need to change so he didn't buy.

Spark Plug - Proton original or Bosch Platinum Iridium Fusion from Lowyat member "airline" - Expected to be around RM100++ for the latter.

Gear Oil - Auto Gear? Proton-Petronas XP3 ATF or Proton SPIII ATF or Mitsubishi Diaqueen SPIII. For XP3 ATF I believe you need to flush your gearbox with it first before topping it up, which can be quite expensive. Proton SPIII around RM15 ~ RM25 per litre from spare parts shop. Not sure about XP3 and Mitsubishi SPIII ATF.

Brake Fluid - Bosch Dot 4 Brake Fluid, from airline also. 1L RM20. Should be more than enough unless you want to flush the brake system, which I'm not sure will take how much.

Air Filter - Proton original or whatever filter from spare parts shop? Expected to be RM10 ~ RM20

Radiator Coolant - Not clear on the brands available. I use Castrol Radicool, costed RM60 for 2L from Eneos 1U, but there are probably better places to buy it from. 2L should be enough. You might want to add some cash for RO bottled water (RM1.8 per 1.5L from places like 7-Eleven or some sundry shop) to top the radiator up with to prevent rust. Maybe radiator flush too (RM10+-) to make way for the new radiator coolant.

Fuel Filter - 60K KM, but if you insist, it's RM40 ~ RM70 depending on where you buy (spare parts shop or proton)

Add-on: Power steering fluid, Dexron II or Dexron III. 1L or less should be enough for flushing and topping up.

This post has been edited by TDUEnthusiast: Sep 14 2013, 08:21 PM

Based on the manual's recommendation, not yet. But if you want to stay safe, why not? . Manual gear oil also 60k KM if I remember correctly.

I do waxing about monthly or earlier depending on whether the wax is still on or not. Polishing is normally done at the same time too since I have to clay the car almost every time with dirt sticking to the body, causing mini scratches around. I'm currently washing only though cause I'm thinking of getting a polishing tool and materials in a month or two time.

This one better jaga correctly. You'll want to wash your head lamps and tail lamps at least weekly or earlier depending on how dirty they are so they don't turn yellow. Wipers replacement have to be done like every few months too unless you buy (expensive) silicon wipers. I believe there are trim protectors for sale too to protect the rubber trims around the car. I use the dashboard shine thing since it works on rubber.

Any idea on how to remove the B-line rear seats? The creaking noise from the upper right of the seat is starting to get on my nerves.

How kena? Workshop owner come bang for more income?

So sad. Send where this time to repair?

The more expensive the better . Ask kennywee92 since he sells those. But based on the brand alone I'd say we can safely assume it's good... should.. be.