bot into longkang. heheheh.

that's why i said change to manual gearbox, with that CVT, ferrari also become kancil

and i stand by my point, WASTE MONEY doing all other upgrades because they won't make any difference at all because a) it's a bloody 1.3 and b) it's got a CVT gearbox

actually sentra n16 not really multilink..on paper yes. but actually i dunno what to call it. suspension setup mostly based on tuning. torsion bar on tb suspesion already works like anti roll bar..but adding extra arb will give more torsion rigidity. cars like vios got built in arb inside the beam. to enhance its rigidity.
usually manufacturer will built one tb system to suit several car..from there they can decide the size of arb to 'enhance' the rigidity in order to suit several type vehicle.

Why does it still handle like a boat

I'm gonna say I disagree, but I know you're gonna disagree with me again anyway. So I'll just leave it at that

This post has been edited by dares: Apr 10 2013, 01:20 AM

no point argue la...
most bagus way, save money and get better car....
but i still lose to vios..
damm

all 8 options seems good, and yes do keep the stock cat-con on so you don't compromise the environment unnecessarily

if i may recommend:
- get good brake pads such as EBC ultimax/greenstuff (if more braking power is desired along with low brake dust/noise) brake pads
- get good engine oil (eg: torco, liqui moly, motul)
- get good CVT fluid (eg: lubegard/torco/motul)
- get good performance oriented tires (NVH will be a concern though, consider 2 sets of tires if you want both)
- get good lightweight rims, japan oem'd tech such as advanti, lenso would be good, if budget permits can go higher such as original japanese rims
- get good suspensions, adjustable if budget permits (at least 2-3k or more for the good ones) or get good progressive based sport springs such as eibach or H&R along with good absorbers (consider sport/performance based gas types as you're going for lowered springs (good ones only lower a bit so not much to worry) and it'll stress the absorber more than stock springs
- stick with 4-2-1 + s flow, and try to go for proven reputable brand while at the same time leaving the stock cat-con

The reason why the megane and other sports car using torsion beam has good handling is the chassis itself. See how rigid it is. Compared to our saga.

it's all abt tuning. the main advantage of tb is cheap, durable and use less bushing, simple, space saving. some manufacturer like proton, renault,ford put more effort and budget in tuning department. the rest like toyota, nissan..just so2 with the handling department.

yep true. but saga rigidity is good among its class. i wont compare it with more expensive sports car..but if u drive old standard wira and saga blm..u can feel saga blm is more solid and rigid.

Hmm. Opinions might differ. For me i still think a wira is much more capable in terms of comfort and handling. But again to each his own.

Wanted to recommend Titan Absorbers as well, glad to see someone beat me to it
I've been using their shocks since 2005 or thereabouts, still working fine till now, just have to service every 2 years for optimum performance.

I have UR front strut, rear strut and fender bars installed (installed one by one in that order) and I felt the fender bar makes the most difference.

Isn't the Wira lower and wider? That makes a big difference IMHO. Our Xsara has rather soft suspension, but can still go around corners nicely and is stable at higher speeds. At least the cornering is probably because the center of gravity is low. A Saga is rather high and narrow...

The Saga FLX have stiffer suspensions, which also makes a difference. I remember dropping off my old Waja (trade in) and picking up my new FLX SE, the first thing I notice is that the Saga has less bodyroll than the Waja, which was mind-boggling for me at that time But you are right, it is the tallest sedan I have ever driven. The trade-off was that the ride was quite harsh, partly due to the pieces-of-crap low profile Silverstones. It improved dramatically after I changed to a higher-profile tire.

This post has been edited by dares: Apr 10 2013, 06:39 PM

Yup. But the Wira/Waja can be set up more comfortable while having the same cornering abilities (though with more body roll).

A Megane RS just sits flat on the floor, with a wide track. That must help.

Talking about Wira/Waja/Saga then suddenly Megane RS is brought up I'm experiencing whiplash

This post has been edited by dares: Apr 11 2013, 01:25 AM

change your extractor and add middle box.

change air filter to KN.

then use lightened crank pulley.

then you will get fast throttle respond and improved acceleration.

just leave it as stock =)
u can minor modify it, like drop in filtr, irrium spark plugs,
Front n rear UR bar, 15inch sport rims (change only when ur 14inch tayar botak),
always stick to fully syntactic engine oil. it wont cost you more than 3k.
the remaining 5k? spend it for food, shopping and entertainment =)
im driving a 1.3 flx too and im enjoying it at it's cost^^

monthly installment is very comfortable too as i got lots of spare money to go genting, go telok gong eat seafood, go melaka, penang, johor during my weekend.

not everybody can afford the crazy prices of better cars. how much is the excise duty? how much is the ap? you rich, good for you but TS did mention his salary cant pay for it.

even janji dicapati already, somebody promised that he will copycat PR manifesto but now flip flop on the janji and car prices will not reduce anytime soon.

I Owe Proton Preve CFE and FLX CVT, I don't think can add-on more speed on stock engine bro. My friend clock 190+ km/h with 1.3 FLX stock engine without any tuning. After he change this and that the whole car performance drop and FC keep on increasing

Now he still wanna go for ECU tuning for RM80... Haiz By the way, I still happy driving with original setting and only returning for ECU and TCU re-flashing once in a while at SC