KrisMas did advise on sun baking the LSPs to hasten curing heh

personally i just prefer not having the sun/heat, since i tend to sweat a lot, they do get in the way in detailing as it drips all over the car
if that is required anyways, i could just sun bake the car on the following morning, and just layer the car accordingly if i want to


This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Jun 7 2013, 06:31 PM

oh i don't have any rotary/DA tools yet, still hand work (can i blame the lack of tools from being slow? )

compounding/polishing; that one tools will work better than hand unfortunately.

can go with lower strength apc (1:10) or other more specific products such as interior quick detailers that meg sells

this is referring to meguiar's all purpose cleaner that i bought, pictures posted on this thread too btw

no la only single layer, this weekend gonna try out double layer (although as i previously mentioned, probably futile as hell )

http://twitpic.com/cv8vnc
http://twitpic.com/cuaz8i

and speaking of sonax:
http://twitpic.com/cu9k66

Megs apc 1:4 distilled water ratio, and then turtle wax f21 wheel cleaner (finishing it) , no brushing applied http://twitpic.com/cw3ewc

Either my paint sucks, or I have a thing with rocks (as with my windscreen), counted at least 6 chipped spots http://twitpic.com/cw3oc9

O...k, totally hit a road block while claying: new clay cloth seems to leave some kinda residue while my old one is hardening and too dirty

i wonder my TW QD doesn't have enough lube and/or the polymers/gloss is causing adverse effects on the clay cloth
anyways dried the car with my new osren waffle weave (rm20 lol) and oh boy it does work pretty well, no streaks and only required 2 wrings

maybe heading out with another car after i wake up later to get some clays/lube lol

damn sure as hell didn't got the memo on that layer thing.

how can i tell if that layer is gone or not if i don't want to clay my glasses? (they just got coated on rainx last 1-2 weeks lol )

yeap.
and i did soaked the cloth prior to using it... just didn't know about the whole "layer" thing. and yeah cut it as erik advised, got 3 more pieces kept in its original plastic box.

i did lube the surface up (and the cloth as well) a lot, and my car was wet after wash (did not dry it) but im getting a lot of resistance from the cloth, if i use force, HAH there's those residue. have to use a lot of apc and scrubbing to get them off as they looked like rubber or glue stuck on the surface oTL
i initially thought my clear coat is done as the entire surface was rough as well, but after apc and a lot of elbow grease revealing the original clean/glassy surface then i managed to catch a breath of relief

btw how do i inspect if the clay cloth is contaminated? clay was easy with the light color contrast, however for the cloth, it's all black anyways oTL

oh i tend to store my products for a long time, might as well use distilled water since i have like, a whole carton of it LOL!

AH bathroom mirror, gotcha i got one that's damn dirty LOL

After 5 hours since 2am, finally done! Clay whole car, polished few parts, whole car double layer waxed http://twitpic.com/cwd0ax

The mirror look from the polished front hood feels so awesome. Still has minor defects and orange peels though XD http://twitpic.com/cwd0km

Even the Rims are waxed, tires gelled for that awesome color depth and shine glossy wet look http://twitpic.com/cwd0qm

Rear bonnet that was polished as well, my head/phone camera didn't look as clear as the front XD http://twitpic.com/cwd0zk

As the sun is coming up the shine is even more awesome;Will post up steps/products used on LYN detailing threadlater http://twitpic.com/cwd1a8

products used:
- 2 ciplak buckets, osren gritguard bucket system (2 buckets to rinse/wash off dirt, 1 for shampoo)
- ciplak wash sponge x2 (1 for overall, the other for wheels/exhaust/mudguard etc)
- threw my ciplak rm10-20 (cant remember price) wheel brush into the trash can since the bristles are flattening and it is exposing its inner metal frame, lol? used it since i was using TW wheel cleaner to finish it off (which i did) and i felt metal hitting metal :/
- Turtle wax F21 Car wash shampoo
- Meguiar's APC 1:4 dilution + Turtle wax F21 Wheel cleaner (yay done, sonax/megs apc and WB combo here i come)
- using the Wheel cleaner bottle (after thoroughly washed/rinsed/cleaned), filled with TW F21 shampoo 1:2 ratio with water (almost 1:1) serving as my temporary clay lube, and this works
- osren clay cloth
- cant remember brand soft silicone wiper blade to speed up drying process
- Osren waffle weave drying cloth
- ciplak synthetic chamois drying cloth for the wheels/tires/mudguards
- Turtle wax polishing compound (that cheap rm 1x/2x one)
- Turtle wax hard shell wax (that cheap most basic wax lol, i still got half left, it'll take a while before i get to my newly bought megs ultimate liquid wax )
- Turtle wax ICE polish (& wax, AIO stuff; easiest wax i've ever applied/buff off and smells like strawberry, feels like baby oil ROFL)
- ciplak brand microfiber cloth to remove polishes
- Osren premium white micro fiber cloth for the 2 layer wax buffing off

saturday:
- strong stream of water to wash/rinse car
- washed tires/wheels first
- applied shampoo/used the wash sponges for the rest of the car
- proceed to clay, met with difficulties as per previous post
- used megs APC to remove problem
- so just dried car to prevent water spots

Sunday:
- strong stream of water to spray/wet the car
- clay using TW F21 shampoo mixture as lube and the existing water on surface
- dried car
- polish certain part of car: front door, front bonner, rear bonnet, fenders
- applied TW hard shell paste wax, buff off
- applied TW ICE synthetic polish/wax and buff off

(hope i didn't miss out any steps/products, feel free to ask anything )

i doubt it'll be any easier than the TW ICE liquid polish, because that thing... you kinda dont even need to buff off ROFL!

but of course, being a jack of all trades and trying to do every damn thing, something's gotta give and i believe pricing/durability was gone case.

thanks for the tip on ULQ btw, appreciate it

i use those blades with utmost care and only on broad long panels that holds water. in other words, only the bonnet, roof, glasses, and only 1-2 swipes on the door panels.
and yea, no strength applied, very quick swipes, and inspection for sand/dirt after every 2-3 swipes
(actually had a bit of discussion about this with KrisMas a while back)

and yes my car was basically stripped naked, with all the intense claying and some APC, how to sheet any water?

this TW ICE polish (god damnit TW on the naming lol), the ONLY thing you can't apply to is glass, more towards preventing reduced visibility than harm i suppose.
and as per instructions, you need to wait 3-5 minutes before buffing off? put that shit on the entire damn car, then just wipe after you're done. whole thing took like 10-20minutes lol.

it's a polish so it does correct too, although for my case, i guess it "corrects" the hard shell paste wax underneath it for better gloss definition XD
and atm i guess it's just a sacrificial barrier before my hard shell wax haha.

for UQW: if cost's a prob, buy in a gallon

eh didnt seem the case for me, and with APC used on some spots like the bonnet, and clay cloth with shampoo, and the surface being glassy smooth, still doesn't sheet off water that i still prefer to have a blade doing the job for me

maybe it depends on what's being used as lube? then again that would bead, not sheet

yeap i did exactly that, hardshell paste on the bottom, then liquid ICE on top.

not sure how long my friend wants me to use his ICE polish for, but as soon as i return, i'll have UQW spray wax to substitute it

first time doing 2 layers, so will have to monitor

paste the full link, i help you fix lol

to add on, can try wd40 too, although for this method, helps if you have car shampoo to remove the oily mess it may create