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 Cycling V5 aka 8888 CNY HUAT ah!, General talks on Racing/road bikes

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yolk
post Mar 20 2013, 06:22 AM

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QUOTE(vin_ann @ Mar 19 2013, 02:11 PM)
so will your next bike be Giant?  icon_rolleyes.gif
*
next bike is not gonna be anytime soon. still upgrading the engine whistling.gif
yolk
post Mar 20 2013, 06:23 AM

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QUOTE(vin_ann @ Mar 19 2013, 03:00 PM)
if after running 50km, are legs still strong to pedal?
*
if that was a problem there wouldn't by any ironman around brows.gif

This post has been edited by yolk: Mar 20 2013, 06:24 AM
yolk
post Mar 20 2013, 07:00 AM

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hey guys

I'm in the midst of a shopping spree buying stuff online in preparation for winter riding and was looking at buying some tyres/brake pads.

There's a deal online currently for 2 x conti gp 4000s + 5 tubes for roughly RM 250 - 260. The cheapest i found here in LBS is about RM 300 for tyres only. Question is would you buy tyres online or rather get it from LBS despite it being more expensive for warranty issues/returns etc ?? Would using 25mm tyres make loads of difference ? Some say it comfier coz can lower tyre pressure and has more/better contact patch/rolling resistance ??

Also for brake pads I was looking at some swisstop. Apparently they're very rim/alu friendly and not so abrasive plus has very good stopping distance in both wet and dry. Was looking at the green pads. Any other suggestions or should I just stick to the standard shimano pads ?

Also I assume my 4za brakeset takes standard shimano pads ? I noticed that on my current brake pads the front is one piece. The metal plate + brake pad are together. The rear I think is two piece as there's a nut behind the metal piece which is to remove the pad itself ?

So if I were to buy pads I need to buy the whole block/pad for front and pad replacement for rear ?

Will try to take pictures later in the evening if what I said doesn't makes sense.

This post has been edited by yolk: Mar 20 2013, 07:02 AM
miaopurr
post Mar 20 2013, 09:17 AM

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QUOTE(vin_ann @ Mar 19 2013, 03:00 PM)
if after running 50km, are legs still strong to pedal?
*
just scream...

user posted image
miaopurr
post Mar 20 2013, 09:22 AM

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QUOTE(yolk @ Mar 20 2013, 07:00 AM)
There's a deal online currently for 2 x conti gp 4000s + 5 tubes for roughly RM 250 - 260. The cheapest i found here in LBS is about RM 300 for tyres only. Question is would you buy tyres online or rather get it from LBS despite it being more expensive for warranty issues/returns etc ?? Would using 25mm tyres make loads of difference ? Some say it comfier coz can lower tyre pressure and has more/better contact patch/rolling resistance ??
*
that's a very good deal. for tyres, buying online is fine.

QUOTE(yolk @ Mar 20 2013, 07:00 AM)
Also for brake pads I was looking at some swisstop. Apparently they're very rim/alu friendly and not so abrasive plus has very good stopping distance in both wet and dry. Was looking at the green pads. Any other suggestions or should I just stick to the standard shimano pads ?
*
what kind of shimano pads do you have? dura ace? if the stopping power of current pads is enough, just stick with them.

QUOTE(yolk @ Mar 20 2013, 07:00 AM)
Also I assume my 4za brakeset takes standard shimano pads ? I noticed that on my current brake pads the front is one piece. The metal plate + brake pad are together. The rear I think is two piece as there's a nut behind the metal piece which is to remove the pad itself ?

So if I were to buy pads I need to buy the whole block/pad for front and pad replacement for rear ?
*
yeap, i think u got it right.
butthead
post Mar 20 2013, 09:41 AM

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QUOTE(yolk @ Mar 20 2013, 06:22 AM)
next bike is not gonna be anytime soon. still upgrading the engine  whistling.gif
*
don't pretend lar...

QUOTE(yolk @ Mar 20 2013, 06:23 AM)
if that was a problem there wouldn't by any ironman around  brows.gif
*
he said after 50KMs... not after swimming 3.8KM, cycle for 180KM, and run for 42KM mar...
butthead
post Mar 20 2013, 09:51 AM

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QUOTE(yolk @ Mar 20 2013, 07:00 AM)
Question is would you buy tyres online or rather get it from LBS despite it being more expensive for warranty issues/returns etc ?? Would using 25mm tyres make loads of difference ? Some say it comfier coz can lower tyre pressure and has more/better contact patch/rolling resistance ??
tires is tires.. if it faks up it faks up...usually nothing to return regarding tires unless it comes already with a big hole...

25mm is something you have to try for yourself... might work for me, but not you... no definitive answer on this one...

QUOTE(yolk @ Mar 20 2013, 07:00 AM)
Also for brake pads I was looking at some swisstop. Apparently they're very rim/alu friendly and not so abrasive plus has very good stopping distance in both wet and dry. Was looking at the green pads. Any other suggestions or should I just stick to the standard shimano pads ?
*
swisstop is good if you can get it easily... usually sram shops stock them up...and not priced too high up for my taste..shimano's are not cheap by the same standard... the 105 inserts are around RM60 for a set of 2 pair or 4 inserts while the dura ace ones are RM110 just for a pair....

but if you haven't wear them out or is considering changing wheels... swap them when either one happens... preferably a new pad with a new wheel... no point bringing a pad embeded with metal bits over to a new rim and ruin it...

QUOTE(yolk @ Mar 20 2013, 07:00 AM)
Also I assume my 4za brakeset takes standard shimano pads ? I noticed that on my current brake pads the front is one piece. The metal plate + brake pad are together. The rear I think is two piece as there's a nut behind the metal piece which is to remove the pad itself ?

So if I were to buy pads I need to buy the whole block/pad for front and pad replacement for rear ?
always buy inserts as they are cheaper in long run... if you can... get a set of complete pad holder + insert for your fronts this time around and just get inserts for the rear... you also get more choices by selecting inserts only... just make sure it is shimano compatible and that's it...campy ones have a different lock groove on the pad...or no groove at all if i am not wrong..



butthead
post Mar 20 2013, 09:54 AM

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QUOTE(miaopurr @ Mar 20 2013, 09:17 AM)
just scream...

user posted image
*
user posted image

and continue...
butthead
post Mar 20 2013, 10:36 AM

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ufhhhh


butthead
post Mar 20 2013, 10:40 AM

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Shimano Dura-Ace Di2 9070 11 speed groupset – first ride review

Wiggins to attack in mountains?
yolk
post Mar 20 2013, 01:07 PM

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QUOTE(butthead @ Mar 20 2013, 10:36 AM)
ufhhhh


*
wahliao .. damn hard core ... here's another one shocking.gif


yolk
post Mar 20 2013, 01:17 PM

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QUOTE(miaopurr @ Mar 20 2013, 09:22 AM)
that's a very good deal. for tyres, buying online is fine.
what kind of shimano pads do you have? dura ace? if the stopping power of current pads is enough, just stick with them.
yeap, i think u got it right.
*
okay thanks for the confirmation. I have no idea what pads they are. Came with the bike, some entry level 4za caliper and brake pads. Definitely not dura ace cry.gif

QUOTE(butthead @ Mar 20 2013, 09:51 AM)
tires is tires.. if it faks up it faks up...usually nothing to return regarding tires unless it comes already with a big hole...

25mm is something you have to try for yourself... might work for me, but not you... no definitive answer on this one...
swisstop is good if you can get it easily... usually sram shops stock them up...and not priced too high up for my taste..shimano's are not cheap by the same standard... the 105 inserts are around RM60 for a set of 2 pair or 4 inserts while the dura ace ones are RM110 just for a pair....

but if you haven't wear them out or is considering changing wheels... swap them when either one happens... preferably a new pad with a new wheel... no point bringing a pad embeded with metal bits over to a new rim and ruin it...
always buy inserts as they are cheaper in long run... if you can... get a set of complete pad holder + insert for your fronts this time around and just get inserts for the rear... you also get more choices by selecting inserts only... just make sure it is shimano compatible and that's it...campy ones have a different lock groove on the pad...or no groove at all if i am not wrong..
*
thought some people do claim tyres based on manufacturing defect ? Though I have no idea what condition the tyre must be/was for them to make such a claim in the first place.

I'll compare the prices over here and online to see which are cheaper. Another brand mentioned is koolstop salmon pads ?? Seems to be a cheaper alternative to the swisstop green albeit much cheap though it doesn't last as long.

I am definitely considering changing wheels as per my previous posts but have reduced my budget by a bit and now most likely getting the rs80 c24 instead of the 7900 c24. I wouldn't be able to differentiate the difference between the two and many seasoned riders made the same comment.

There is also a promo for 2010 ksyrium elite which are ridiculously cheap compared to the 2013 model but can't find much details on what the difference is between the two. So now it's boiled down to rs80 c24 vs 2010 ksyrium elite.

This post has been edited by yolk: Mar 20 2013, 01:25 PM
andychai910904
post Mar 20 2013, 02:04 PM

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ever heard samrock fixie? how was it? smile.gif
butthead
post Mar 20 2013, 03:05 PM

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QUOTE(yolk @ Mar 20 2013, 01:17 PM)
okay thanks for the confirmation. I have no idea what pads they are. Came with the bike, some entry level 4za caliper and brake pads. Definitely not dura ace  cry.gif
thought some people do claim tyres based on manufacturing defect ? Though I have no idea what condition the tyre must be/was for them to make such a claim in the first place.

I'll compare the prices over here and online to see which are cheaper. Another brand mentioned is koolstop salmon pads ?? Seems to be a cheaper alternative to the swisstop green albeit much cheap though it doesn't last as long.

I am definitely considering changing wheels as per my previous posts but have reduced my budget by a bit and now most likely getting the rs80 c24 instead of the 7900 c24. I wouldn't be able to differentiate the difference between the two and many seasoned riders made the same comment.

There is also a promo for 2010 ksyrium elite which are ridiculously cheap compared to the 2013 model but can't find much details on what the difference is between the two. So now it's boiled down to rs80 c24 vs 2010 ksyrium elite.
*
quite light leh the caliper... you own a ridley?? forza is ridley's in house component...

tyres is usually not going to arrive in any defect state lar...if have also it will be noticeable like a big slit or a big hole on the tire... those are clear cut claimable...

i used the koolstop pads that look like this, not sure the name.. but according to this... called dura
http://www.koolstop.com/english/road_pad.html
user posted image

i like this as it brakes quite well, but i am not sure about the durability because none of my pads last as long as a year... i also like it because the tail end kicks up a bit to reduce brake squeal and judder...
hianboy
post Mar 20 2013, 03:09 PM

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hmmm...i wonder why my pad still kicking after more then a year...
butthead
post Mar 20 2013, 03:27 PM

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because you are a shitty rider...or i am a shitty braker...
hianboy
post Mar 20 2013, 04:52 PM

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i wondering... is there any tape (macam bar tape but slimmer much slimmer) for wrapping the shifter lever / brake lever?
butthead
post Mar 20 2013, 04:56 PM

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QUOTE(hianboy @ Mar 20 2013, 04:52 PM)
i wondering... is there any tape (macam bar tape but slimmer much slimmer) for wrapping the shifter lever /  brake lever?
*
cork tape lar doodoo...

you buy gel tape feel very thick one...

or just wrap with electrical tape... very grippy after some use somemore.. no need scare slip...

This post has been edited by butthead: Mar 20 2013, 04:58 PM
hianboy
post Mar 20 2013, 05:04 PM

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oo...ada black kalar tak? my 105 lever look like 90's women *****'s texture... very horrible to squeeze it everytime...
hianboy
post Mar 20 2013, 05:04 PM

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electrical tape ka? itu manyak sticky wooo.... and abit thick also...

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