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 v8.0 The OFFICIAL 3G/5G Honda City 2011 thread, The new City, where to next?

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ZeneticX
post Aug 7 2013, 01:41 PM

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QUOTE(Str33tBoY @ Aug 7 2013, 11:51 AM)
i plan to change to light weight 15" very soon,and pass dis 16" to my mom's vios...
as i still can enjoy gd tyre @ gd price for 15"...
to 195/55/15,will dis make my fc better abit?
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don't change to that size.... your speedo reading will go off

195/60/15 is fine
ZeneticX
post Aug 7 2013, 02:16 PM

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those old members who had installed UR bars... wanna ask which bar is the most important and should go in 1st ? i only know i have to install , FSB, rear ARB, and front ARB. but currently no budget for all together, so plan to install 1 by 1
ZeneticX
post Aug 7 2013, 11:50 PM

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QUOTE(earl-ku @ Aug 7 2013, 09:36 PM)
whats the price on the UR fsb, arb and lower fsb?
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fsb 200+

arb is 400+ for front and back
ZeneticX
post Aug 9 2013, 08:09 PM

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WTA what's the size for our small light (not headlight) ? is it T10 ?

and can any1 help me take a picture from the manual book on how to replace the bulb ? icon_question.gif
ZeneticX
post Aug 9 2013, 10:25 PM

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QUOTE(Str33tBoY @ Aug 9 2013, 09:24 PM)
hi to all d sifu...
u all got survey which is d best fuel for city...?
all d while i'm using caltex...
have gd power...
but d fc is not so gd compare to other brand...
same with my other car...
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BHP is another good fuel. i've heard many good reviews for petron as well
ZeneticX
post Aug 10 2013, 10:19 PM

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QUOTE(silverarrows @ Aug 10 2013, 10:19 AM)
Just take it out by a twist in anti clock(if not mistaken) and pull out the socket/adaptor that hold the bulb.
FYR.
http://hc3msia.b1.jcink.com/index.php?showtopic=103
should be T10.
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how about the rear lights, reverse and signal lights ?

just replaced my front small light with LED bulbs, confirm it's T10.


and my boot light also kong edi.... how to replace that ?

i plan to change all my rear lights into LED bulbs as well. but i heard for signal light need to install another special circuit controller in order to control the LED to not blink too fast when u activate the signal ?

u seem to have many experience DIY LEDs into the car, glad u're still around tongue.gif

This post has been edited by ZeneticX: Aug 10 2013, 11:34 PM
ZeneticX
post Aug 11 2013, 07:13 PM

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QUOTE(silverarrows @ Aug 11 2013, 07:08 PM)
hihi yeah bro...anything we still can do sharing here. I do have a mission last time to change all bulb to LED type. For signal light, I don't encourage to change to LED type because the light was too dim and tik-tak-tik-tak too fast. Same to the 3rd break light, stock bulb is still better as it is bright enough to serve for signal/warning light. I do owned LED type for break/signal lights but decided drop it for safety purpose. Anyway it make sense to change all the internal bulb to LED type, who knows if we accidentally turned on the filament bulb & potentially kill car battery?
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for the turn signal tik-tak-tik-tak too fast problem when changed to LED, i did a search on garage sales ytd and found this

https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=2596836&hl=LED

QUOTE
(10) Turn Signal LED Flasher - 3-pin CF13 - for most type of Japanese car
Technical Characteristics:
- Nominal Voltage: 12V
- Operating Voltage: 11V-15V
- Switch Current: Min. 0.02A - Max. 20A
- Switch Load: Min. 0.1W - Max. 150W
- Flashing Frequency: 90 times per min
- Operating Temperature: -40°C to +80°C
this LED Flasher will solve the problem of your turn signal light flashing / blinking rapidly (too fast), caused by replacing your ordinary incandescent bulb for LED bulb. this is a 3-pin flasher, compatible with most japanese car or motorcycle, however, please take note on the wiring diagram to make sure whether it is compatible with your car or motorcycle. this item should be installed by a qualified technician only. in some cases, modifications are required.
RM30 1 unit


QUOTE
(11) Turn Signal LED Flasher - 3-pin CF14 - for most type of Japanese car
Technical Characteristics:
- Nominal Voltage: 12V
- Operating Voltage: 11V-15V
- Switch Current: Min. 0.02A - Max. 20A
- Switch Load: Min. 0.1W - Max. 150W
- Flashing Frequency: 90 times per min
- Operating Temperature: -40°C to +80°C
this LED Flasher will solve the problem of your turn signal light flashing / blinking rapidly (too fast), caused by replacing your ordinary incandescent bulb for LED bulb. this is a 3-pin flasher, compatible with most japanese car or motorcycle, however, please take note on the wiring diagram to make sure whether it is compatible with your car or motorcycle. this item should be installed by a qualified technician only. in some cases, modifications are required.
RM30 1 unit


but not sure where to install it

the 3rd break lights is referring to the one on the top or the one besides the main rear light? for the one beside the main rear light the size is T20 right ? do you change that ? for cabin light what is the size?

This post has been edited by ZeneticX: Aug 12 2013, 12:39 AM
ZeneticX
post Aug 13 2013, 05:40 PM

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QUOTE(silverarrows @ Aug 13 2013, 04:40 PM)
The first link actually gave you the hint which size/type to use for each bulb. The 3rd break light is the one on top & it should be same with item (5), the break light bulb beside the main rear is T10 if my memory served me well. The best way to verify or to check is to take out the original bulb to verify.
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wait so there is actually 2 bulbs inside the main rear light? one for lighting up when u turn on the headlight another is for breaking ? i thought there's only 1 bulb in each of the lights
ZeneticX
post Aug 16 2013, 11:25 PM

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QUOTE(ascll @ Aug 16 2013, 05:00 PM)
Thanks for sharing.
I shall get 3 bars below recommended by UR technical expert at Kakimotor next Monday...

Front Strut Bar / Front Tower Bar
Code: UR-TW2-688
Specification: 2 Points

Rear Strut Bar / Rear Tower Bar
Code: UR-RE2-504
Specification: 2 Points

Rear Anti-roll Bar / Rear Sway Bar / Rear Stabilizer Bar
Code: UR-AR16-146
Specification: 16mm Solid
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hmmm. rear strut bar kinda weird, i rarely see city owners install that (from past experience with various owners who install UR bars)

usually most will go for front strut bar, rear anti roll, and front anti roll
ZeneticX
post Aug 19 2013, 12:22 AM

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QUOTE(ascll @ Aug 18 2013, 10:43 PM)
Hi,

Mind to share more facts what are the benefits of having front lower bar instead of rear lower bar?

Rear Tower Bar
Code: UR-RE2-504
Specification: 2 Points

Front Lower Bar
Code: UR-LA2-506
Specification: 2-Point

Kindly reply soonest possible. Thanks in advance.
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im not too sure of the benefits. will let the other experienced members to explain

but afaik vry little city owners install rear tower bar
ZeneticX
post Aug 19 2013, 09:27 PM

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QUOTE(ascll @ Aug 19 2013, 08:12 PM)
Hi,

Anyone tried erictioh's customized VS and GC?

Is it good?
Would it cause any issue in any SC within warranty period?
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im using this. i will quote from my previous post


QUOTE(ZeneticX @ Jul 28 2013, 07:40 PM)
just installed VS + GC from erictioh

those looking to enhance your ride further can consider it, very worth investment for just RM280. headlight dimming when aircond compressor kick in become less frequent and the effect is less, audio quality improved, instrument cluster seems more bright, and most important the pick up is much smoother now, no more jerking feeling

another problem eliminated from stock condition is hard start up, according to eric himself is because of the poor stock grounding in our car.
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as for warranty i not sure about it, but IINM as long you didn't tamper with any wirings your warranty will be fine. i didn't think twice installing this because my warranty had long ended.

jz to be safe you can uninstall the VS when you sent the car for service or warranty claim.

ZeneticX
post Aug 20 2013, 02:28 AM

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QUOTE(Sh@rty 5 @ Aug 19 2013, 11:31 PM)
yup

some other usual mods we do for city, drl , auto lock , side mirror autofold  icon_rolleyes.gif

those added us at fb shud knw nowadays we sell many philips drl. cause rm 3xx only can get it d including installation

, warranty wise 1 year and dont have to worry about voiding warranty cause directly tap to battery...  icon_rolleyes.gif
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your side mirror auto fold is which type ? those which requires the car to come with the motor (E spec) or you provide installation with motor ? (S spec)
ZeneticX
post Aug 21 2013, 02:20 PM

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this kind of boot tray will be better i think

user posted image

user posted image
ZeneticX
post Aug 21 2013, 02:53 PM

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QUOTE(kucingfight @ Aug 21 2013, 02:38 PM)
the person is selling in lelong and lowyat forum too.
http://www.mudah.my/Honda+EG+EK+8G+New+Civ...ay-22404036.htm

initially i wanted to get this too..but to CITY badge haha

talking bout trays.
is this useful?
user posted image
http://www.mudah.my/OEM+Engine+Under+Tray+...ty-22354080.htm
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there's another brand called orsen shield for this skid plate

https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...673852&hl=orsen

but quite expensive i think
ZeneticX
post Aug 22 2013, 03:53 PM

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QUOTE(Str33tBoY @ Aug 22 2013, 12:36 PM)
i plan to change to semi-syn oil during my 1st oil change...
currently feel my car is quite underpower...
anione using K&N filter & voltage stabilizer currently?
ani feedback?
*
using erictioh vs and gc for 3 weeks edi

improvements i've encountered :

- no more hard to start up cases due to improved grounding
- aircond blower is much more powerful now even at 1
- audio quality improved slightly. but radio reception remains the same (other users claim no more static sound)
- pick up improved, gear downshift more frequently, no more jerky feeling. this is very good for S spec users and for those who don;t use the paddle shift in E spec.
- instrument cluster appears more bright
- headlight after dimming will go bright again when aircond compressor kick in. (some users report that dimming will be gone completely, but it still happen to me)

will install K&N filter at upcoming sservice.

anyway my car already 4 years old, so for those with new car maybe the improvements will be better

This post has been edited by ZeneticX: Aug 22 2013, 03:54 PM
ZeneticX
post Aug 24 2013, 12:13 AM

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QUOTE(ahpingko @ Aug 23 2013, 12:26 PM)
how much u paid for the VC and GC? for newer car will have better grounding right? no?
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VS RM170
grounding RM110

not necessarily new car will have better grounding. for example honda city stock grounding is not so good
ZeneticX
post Aug 24 2013, 02:38 PM

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QUOTE(komando67 @ Aug 24 2013, 02:24 AM)
Im interested with ericteoh GC+VC and intend to install it on my 1 year city. Actually..do we need vc n gc for a new car?
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its an optional stuff, like an add on. up to you whether to install it. if you want to feel some improvements go ahead

but if have doubts it's always best to stay stock. especially those with new cars and warranty haven't ended yet

QUOTE(babygrand123 @ Aug 24 2013, 08:47 AM)
The more i drive the more i feel lack of torque power under 2.5K RPM, u only feel the kick when above 3K RPM. It is necessary to install grounding to improve engine responsive?

1) Can anyone share on the percentage of engine responsive after installed grounding?

2) How much it cost u?

3) Will warranty avoided ?
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iinm warranty won't be voided as long you don't perform any wire cutting with the stock electricals. since grouding cable is jz install alongside (like plug in) with your stock cables, i believe warranty will remain.

erictioh selling RM110 for his grounding cables.

This post has been edited by ZeneticX: Aug 24 2013, 02:38 PM
ZeneticX
post Aug 24 2013, 02:50 PM

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met up with hollyfish again to install LED side steps. old members will be familiar with these, but for new members new poison tongue.gif

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


This post has been edited by ZeneticX: Aug 24 2013, 02:51 PM
ZeneticX
post Aug 24 2013, 09:36 PM

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any VS will be more or less the same

but IMO not worth to spend too much on a VS, around RM200 +/- ok already.

for GC is good to get a better quality 1
ZeneticX
post Aug 24 2013, 11:17 PM

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some poison for new member

user posted image

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