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 Kelisa Club Tok

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detomaso
post Jun 10 2010, 07:45 AM

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QUOTE(cscheat @ Jun 8 2010, 02:31 PM)
Anyone selling KELISA genuine spares in FORUM? time to do some work in my car
*
PM me what u need...


detomaso
post Aug 4 2010, 06:04 AM

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QUOTE(farique @ Jul 18 2010, 10:56 PM)
I have no idea why it has so happened..  sweat.gif
take a look at pictures below..

front part of the sump's bolts
user posted image

user posted image

rear part of the sump's bolts
user posted image
what should I replace? the sump? or just the seals? icon_question.gif
*
bro.. i guess it not just the sump gasket lah.. i can see oil at ur mounting braket too.. can the oil move to d front??... u can the silver U braket that are connected to mounting smile.gif
detomaso
post Aug 13 2010, 05:37 AM

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QUOTE(macong @ Aug 4 2010, 04:05 PM)
Hi all,

Newbie here. Any one know how to detect the coolant loss. The water reservoir will reduce to almost empty after one week driving (roughly 100km), can see little red colour (coolant) at the fux box cover and the bottom rad. hose. But I cant see any coolant colour around the cap and rad. hose joint. Mechanic said there it was rad. cap, have changed it, but still cant solve.

Any ideas? Thanks.
*
try check t-joint under t/body there.

always pecah case one.. slowly leak until breaks..
detomaso
post Sep 2 2010, 05:37 AM

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my kelisa gets me 450km for full tank of RON97 hi-way~..my full tank around 30-32L
370km for town...
detomaso
post Sep 22 2010, 09:35 PM

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QUOTE(DaBestOne @ Sep 2 2010, 08:33 AM)
wow, semangat you go and pump ron97...haha..
*
my car tend to loose power with ron95...
detomaso
post Dec 3 2010, 09:30 PM

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QUOTE(singchaii @ Nov 21 2010, 05:32 PM)
Wanna ask something, any side effect after kelisa change meter to l900? Cause I just bought a 2nd hand kelisa but the meter already convert to L900.
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L900 has 2 version.. one is like mine.. which is 4 piston.. and another version is 3piston..

u'll have inaccurate rpm if u use 4piston version meter.. no problem is use 3piston meter...

if stock kelisa use 4piston version.. u wont exceed 5krpm reading..

but if my engine(4piston) use 3piston meter like kelisa stock meter.. i can rev needle till pass 8k rpm lol...
detomaso
post Apr 24 2011, 01:34 AM

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QUOTE(Eclipse80 @ Apr 13 2011, 08:46 PM)
How much will it cost to change the censor eh bro? Thanks!
*
The speed shakes freely something like inaccurate reading can be caused by
-The meter itself(meter which read and show speed)
-Speedo cable(as connector between gearbox - meter)
-Speedo gear @ Gearbox(which transfer gearbox rotation to speedo cable)

Cheapest thing to get replaced is speedo cable.. cost less than 50bux for taiwan brand cable

Speedo gear is something to look for too as the inner gear is plastik...

Meter can try to swap with other meter, interchangeable with L9 L7 L8 Kembara Kenari default meter.. to check ur meter status
QUOTE(megat89 @ Apr 23 2011, 11:04 PM)
i went to 2 shops..one shop quoted me rm280 and the other one quoted me rm230..both of them also saying the same thing..the seal cannot be replaced as all of them are permanently attached to the cover..i did search on the net also other people need to change the whole thing including those who sent to perodua..how come yours can be replaced one?
*
How to change spark plug seal on kelisa head cover there are 3 way actually
1st way(safest)
-Grind all rivet that hold the flat metal sheet
-Remove the flat metal
-Replace the seal(cost wud be less than 30 for 3 seal)
-What we grind earlier is metal,
-The metal sheet that cover the plug seal also metal
-Now put back the piece of flat metal sheet back to its place
-Give a 'tap' welding on each of the 'leftover' rivet with the flat metal sheet

2nd way(expensive-risky)
-Grind all rivet that hold the flat metal sheet
-Remove the flat metal
-Send the head cover to foundry(engineering shop)
-Request to remove the rivet leftover to make a screw thread on each rivet original position so the flat metal sheet will be pressed/hold by screw
-After that u can remove the metal sheet with 10mm size screw
-Get all seal replace
*next plug seal change would be easier*
**but make sure the shop is very precise if not precise the seal might be not 'so tight' so leak will happen again**

3rd..(hardest way but lesser cost as can DIY)
-make way around the old seal..this one hard to explain
-knock the metal sheet like enlarging all around.. but not cut .. just knock
-'peel' out the old seal
-insert new seal
-Knock back the seal all around new seal
**make sure dont make a hard knock.. otherwise new seal wud fail to work**
detomaso
post Oct 4 2011, 12:08 PM

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falken is very slippery...
detomaso
post Nov 14 2011, 12:05 PM

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QUOTE(megat89 @ Nov 7 2011, 10:35 AM)
hi guys, is the 10w40 oil suitable for our kelisa?..it is stated that the recommended grade is 10w30 or higher..higher means 10w40 is also okay right?
*
any engine oil should do the work..

as long u keep the engine oil fresh.. and lubricates all parts shud be ok..

if ppl said thicker engine oil lead to more FC.. just a little increase i guess..
detomaso
post Dec 8 2011, 10:43 PM

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QUOTE(glowinthedark @ Dec 5 2011, 04:24 PM)
I do my car service without fail every time. Never once I missed servicing my car, only late by a few days. I'm only not aware of the gearbox oil need to change every 20k+. Thanks for the tip.

Could it be that the previous owner mod the suspension for 'racing' purpose? I also feel that my car is slightly lower than a normal standard kelisa.

I shall do my clutch problem first, the suspension is not much of a big problem because most of the time there are only 2 people in my car. I'm planning to change everything one shot for my car when I have enough money, i.e: Full tinting, front and back bumper change, change paint color and probably change to mp3 player too.

-glow-


Added on December 6, 2011, 4:14 pmDear brothers cfc-free & mADmAN,

Thanks a bunch for your small but great advices. Today I had changed my kelisa gearbox oil during lunch hour and my, to my surprise, there's no more 'squeeking', 'clanking' and 'scratching' sounds!
It cost me RM40 to change the gearbox oil, not sure if the price is justified or not because I never change gearbox oil before, but I asked another shop earlier today morning and he quoted me RM15 RM12 per liter and it seems kelisa uses about 2 liters? There is a lot of difference between these 2 shops, I'm not sure which is the more trustworthy one. Overall, I'm happy so far with this problem now is fixed, however my clutch still remains 'heavy/hard'. The mechanic told me probably my clutch plate is worn off, but at least for now the big problem is solved and I can drive my car smoothly without any hassle, time to change the whole clutch kit very soon or anybody got other suggestion why my clutch is still heavy?

Thanks in advance both you guys, appreciate it loads!

-glow-
*
hi bro.. clutch heavy?.. means hard to press?? has u adjust the clutch cable assembly?
detomaso
post Dec 19 2011, 09:39 PM

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QUOTE(glowinthedark @ Dec 13 2011, 03:27 PM)
bro,
Actually I spoke too soon in my earlier post. After my post, about 1-2 days later my clutch 'broke'. When I pressed to change gear, I heard a very loud sound (as if it broke), then after that I can only press it from halfway onwards (from the moment u press until halfway is already loose). I had to change the whole clutchkit (for RM688, is it worth it?) and the mechanic didn't change the clutch cable which he said got some problem, which I think I'll do that later when I have enough money again sad.gif
Now it's very light and the gear engages smoothly (as if driving a new car), but I can still feel the clutch is not smooth and can 'feel' like some cabling still have some problem (which would be the clutch cable as he said). Now I'm driving my car carefully without abusing the clutch like I did before.

-glow-
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ok... smile.gif ... when its super stock car clutch wont react like heavy clutch.... tongue.gif unless changing to hyper-duty clutch cover like got some ppl sells online.. that one only i called heavy!....
detomaso
post Jan 14 2012, 11:13 AM

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QUOTE(izaydi @ Jan 14 2012, 10:58 AM)
anyone having prob with 3rd brake light?vibration noise?
*
changed to mira L700 unit.. sure comfy and not melting anymore..
detomaso
post Jan 14 2012, 11:18 AM

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QUOTE(izaydi @ Jan 14 2012, 11:15 AM)
seriously?price range?thanks dude
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i have spare unit. rm50 include installation and bulb. interested?
detomaso
post Jan 14 2012, 11:29 AM

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light sure got bulb. all included in package tongue.gif

detomaso
post Mar 6 2012, 04:28 AM

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QUOTE(alwjmonster @ Mar 6 2012, 04:13 AM)
hi, do you all know what's the maximun bhp can a K3VET achieve? cause yesterday just happened that my friend silvia s15 with somewhere 300bhp+ got smoked by a matte black kelisa.. at ss15.
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roughly modded k3vet.

user posted image
detomaso
post Mar 15 2012, 06:57 AM

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farique..

can swap myvi/viva absorber into kelisa but need to remove the '8' at axle there..
detomaso
post Mar 22 2012, 10:40 PM

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bro.. yep

lets compare both absorber end..

this is myvi rear..

user posted image

this kelisa..


user posted image

i dont realy know its direct fit or need to grind the metal bushing (center hole) of absorber..


btw.. u might opt for tredia absorber or waksegan betle.. both are 'O' end.. but waksegan bettle one are damn stiff.. since vw betle engine are at rear ones...


Added on March 22, 2012, 10:42 pmbut removal of the 8 suspension link... wud make stiffer oso since less 'movement'



This post has been edited by detomaso: Mar 22 2012, 10:42 PM
detomaso
post Apr 13 2012, 11:41 AM

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bro... sorry for last time i mentioned about 8 at axle there... kelisa cant use myvi/viva rear absorber...
detomaso
post Jun 14 2012, 10:48 PM

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Just a little update... dump my turbo engine ... back to n/a engine... minyak save oiii!!!
detomaso
post Jun 20 2012, 07:38 PM

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on aircond engine off.. means... compressor jammed already lah... ha ha ha...

farique, ye kot.. skrg still half pedal... but single throttle slap.. bye bye VIOS b****hhhhhh.... ekekeke.....

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