lol i know your feel when first time read lens spec than kitlens lol...

but aside the focal range, aperture range ...

price also affect by lens' quality like MTF chart? (sharpness performance)
Aspherical elements.... which increase cost to make this element....
quality built.... from plastic to metal bla bla bla...
weather seal bla bla
nano coat bla bla.... 

let's use a car as example la

proton saga 1.5 cc vs benz/BMW 1.5cc.... why the BMW / Benz always expensive?   
what is the factor that affect the price 

Well some do cost more. All depends on the grade i guess, is it for pro or consumer level.

but in this situation between 70200 and 70300 VR, the 70200 cost more. Simple as that

as for aperture...

let say the 70-300 f/4.5-6 (cheapo one) vs 70-200 f/2.8 VRII

70-300 f/4.5-6
when your focal range is 70mm, the maximum aperture is f/4.5, but if you turn to 300mm, it will become smaller aperture and change to f/6... for bokeh fans this might be dissapointing...

for 70-200
it is constant f/2.8 for any range 

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i roughly list the pro and cons la, i never use 70-200 but i can guess what's good about that lens...

70-300mm

pro:
light weight
extra 100mm
cheap

70-200mm
pro:

-nano coat, for prevent chromatic aberration/ colour frindge
-heavy, good for stability, hence also because they use better material to built this thoughter
-weather seal?
-aspherical elements
-focus speed is VERY FAST 
-MTF performance is better http://www.punitsinha.com/resource/underst..._mtf_chart.html
- awesome lens hood 

the gist of it, a lens that has constant aperture like f2.8 will always be more expensive then variable aperture like f3.5-5.6

but also got beza in terms of how many elements (the glass inside) it has, built quality, weather sealing, nano coat etc
example is nikon 24mm 2.8D is around rm1400. but Nikon 24mm F1.4 is RM6k+

confusing at first lah cos alot of info to absorb. give it abit more time then it wouldnt be a problem edi, only problem is the creative side technical side can kowtim

true.. one can have the best theory and technical info abt photography but fail to take outstanding picture. 

tong weng.. i guess u just shoot around with ur kitlens first.. and see what u notice. wat's the limitation of that lens, then u will naturally learn what u need n such already for your next lens.

very simple one...in ur viewfinder u should see something like the picture (circle in red). this thing call exposure meter, if not show go read ur manual how to get it  out.


how to read this thing...u will notice that there is an indicator go left n right.
going to left -> image under exposure (dim or dark)
going to right -> image over exposure (bright)
what u need to get is the indicator stay at 0

example, the indicator now at very left side (under exposure)
in P mode, u can increase the iso (u will notice the indicator moving to right side when u increase the iso. too high will create noise)

in S mode, u can slower the shutter speed. but for movement object, too slow will make ur photo become blur. ISO also can be increase if u want to have faster shutter speed.

in A mode, u can make the F value smaller (open the aperture bigger), also can increase the iso. this highly depend what u are shooting. in some case u need bigger F value to make sure everything in focus the the only variable u can play with is only left the iso.

leave M mode at this moment

if the image is over exposure, u just do the opposite setting.

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Added on December 6, 2012, 11:12 pm

check ur lens spec online, u will notice something about this
Closest Focusing Distance - 1.48 ft. (0.45m)

this mean that u need to have at least 45cm from the object, then ur lens can focus
different lens will have different distance.

Remember moved towards positive is becomes brighter, move towards negative is becomes darker. the meter +ve and -ve direction can be set in opposite direction in your DSLR
You need a Circular Polarizer Filter (CPL) which used to remove flare.

You have long way to go The smaller the aperture of a lens, the better the lens is. DARN Expensive especially when the aperture is FIXED and coated with nano layer bla bla....

I got my sb 700 for rm1k I think

And sb910 for rm 16xx

sb700 is a good flash for first time users. very simple to use since all the buttons are on the flash itself.

sb900/910 are very big very powerful flashes. alot more tech inside also

essentially both are still flashes, buy according to what u need and ur budget. if u google pun all u will get are the specs list, i suggest s ticking to a sb700, more then enuff for u.

CAL_2967 by Calvin Seak, on Flickr

Picture from Korea!

I just got my 50mm f1.8D today. Are the portrait lens (prime lens) doesn't have VR function? vibration would cause so much blur on the prime lens

Darn, how to solve my shaky hands?

RM250 for secondhand (but looks new just have a small dented flaws on the plastic area around the mount).
yeah, but my D90 body have AF motor to do autofocus...

Good morning, congratulation to my bro proposal day