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Model Kits Plastic Car Models, ******* Car Modelers!! Come In *******

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Entau
post Sep 13 2010, 03:21 PM

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advocado: Tamiya cars are generally easier to built, less work required, parts fitting are usually perfect, hence suitable for beginner, but less choice of cars.
Fujimi cars depend on which model, some are very detail but some are not, fitting are ok, but still require some work to get them looks good.
Aoshima cars are usually simplified, easy to built but some parts like bumpers usually warp and require some work to get them fit right..this is because Aoshima usually separated the bumpers from the body so they could make few variation on a single model, like R34, R34 NISMO, R34 blitz, R34 veildside...body same bumper different.

hellcutespawn & hiroki8704, sorry bros, i don't built for others, i had limited time for building models due to busy work, only built for myself and my built rate is 2-3 kits per year, way too slow doh.gif
SUSadvocado
post Sep 13 2010, 10:41 PM

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But my Fujimi has separate bumpers too, also it doesn't have any pedals. No painted headlights, No metal mirrors, No Engine or open up hoods for most cars.

I have built a Tamiya kit before it's pretty similiar to Fujimi just bumpers are with body, but your Tamiya seems more advanced with all the extra stuffs. Fujimi Deluxe do have alot of details, around hundred parts but so far i only saw Diablo SV.

What about price? Which ones are more expensive?

Also I was reading the Tamiya model magazine (English) today and they had Aston Martin on build and the bottom of the car is so detailed just like the real car.

This post has been edited by advocado: Sep 13 2010, 10:43 PM
Entau
post Sep 13 2010, 11:08 PM

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i can't say tamiya are more detail than fujimi, but 1 thing i can assure is tamiya cars are usually more enjoyable to be built compare to fujimi or aoshima. some of the extra stuff u see might be aftermarket stuff, not neccessary from tamiya.

BUT tamiya kit usually does come with metal transfers & window mask, and also colored tailight, that's why i said tamiya are more enjoyable to be built tongue.gif

price wise, u can check hlj or hobbysearch, tamiya kit are slighty expensive but i think it's worth every sen laugh.gif

yeah, that aston martin are quite nice, comes with engine smile.gif if you seen/built Tamiya's Enzo Ferrari or Porsche Carrera GT or the Aston Martin, you will not look at fujimi or aoshima kit tongue.gif
SUSadvocado
post Sep 13 2010, 11:19 PM

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Am curious the painted lights, do tamiya paint the transparent covers or on the body itself?

Do they have different grades of kits? I'm pretty most tamiya kits are not as detailed as the aston. I also saw the Yellow Ferrari, pretty detailed with the engine.

I haven't really checked the Fujimi Diablo SV Deluxe version, it has lots of parts but don't know if the engine can be seen. But looking at the small parts just makes me crazy.

Also learned a few tricks in making hoses & suspension. Do you do your own suspension or just use the original parts? In the magazine the guy also used those carbon like decals on the back of the seat & also engine compartment. Have no idea what decal he used & how he cut it to fit, but he wrote few long evenings just to do the seat...

And he used some sort of paint with fine patterned particles in it to make the Ferrari Dashboard look like fluffy Ferrari Dashboards. At first I though he flocked it.

This post has been edited by advocado: Sep 13 2010, 11:22 PM
Entau
post Sep 13 2010, 11:47 PM

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the clear parts are mold in color, so no need to paint, they dun have grade, but usually from the price you can tell it got engine or dun have

the diablo sv is indeed consist a lot of parts included engine but not easy to built because some fitting issue if i not mistaken sweat.gif

depends, if i need to lowered the car, then i modified the suspension, if not i'll leave it as per since u install the wheel...nothing much can be seen tongue.gif

carbon fiber decal mainly got 2 type, twill weave & plain weave..u just search and you'll know what's the different, yeah, u need to trace out the shape first

like my impreza wrc rear poiler i had to trace out a total of 20 pieces sweat.gif
user posted image

yeah, i think the fine particle is to create rough texture like sandpaper, to replicate texture like momo stering or bucket seat tongue.gif
SUSadvocado
post Sep 14 2010, 12:05 AM

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Is it easy to do tracing? I mean it has to be 100% fit to look good, otherwise...

So do you use those particle paints? They are not commonly seen.

I just went to Art Friend shop i see alot of different paint for different usage, but mainly for arts, don't know if they have any special paints useful for cars, didn't have time to check them properly as there's too many types.

Also do you think model cars are kinda pricey, Fujimi dropped their price but Tamiya's still around rm100 range. I know they are different thing but for rm300-rm400 you can get a pretty decent 1/18 diecast ready painted car with all the small details just like a real car, you know all the chrome parts, headlights, carpet, bucket seat with "momo" effects, antifog wires on the back window & pretty detailed undercarriage, metal wheels etc. Also they may very well weights much heavier, more accurate, more detailed than most model kits around. Just comparing what we getting & what we have to pay for that is.
Entau
post Sep 14 2010, 02:33 AM

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not hard, just time consuming..and little patience tongue.gif
i haven't tried those particles, but i tried add putty into flat paint and spray using airbrush at long distance, works fine

you are right, a decent diecast with details just cost around rm300-400, while a car kit cost around rm100, reason is because not much people into car modeling, that's why the price is not cheap...although it is much cheaper in HK, i got my tamiya fairlady z nismo just for around rm70, but of course not included Photo-etch set, paint and flocking and etc..estimated each kit i usually spend around rm150-rm200 for everything, BUT there's some difference between model kit and die-cast, both had pros & cons biggrin.gif

and owning a diecast & buidling a model kit had different kinda satisfaction as well laugh.gif

i have seen model kits much much more detail than diecast, reason is that diecast is also made by hand, some are mass, some are limited production, and usually the limited one are very expensive. tongue.gif

each diecast had a total building time, let say 20 hours (not including designing the mould & diecast, just paint & construction time), they try not to spend too much time on it or else they rugi workmanship, BUT you can spend many hours on a model kit, those super detail model kit takes around 1-2 years of building time, so you think which is more detail? laugh.gif

here's a VERY detail 1/20 F1 model kit, built by a japanese, you wouldn't see such detail in a 1/20 diecast brows.gif


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more pics here:
http://gdist43.com/gallery/index_23.htm
SUSadvocado
post Sep 14 2010, 10:33 AM

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I bet these kits require alot of custom made parts to look so detailed like tiny bolt n nuts. Model kits just don't have such detailed parts.
autobat
post Sep 16 2010, 07:16 PM

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share my hondas

FOR SALE BRAND NEW HONDA FIT JAZZ TAMIA JUST P.M ME

This post has been edited by autobat: Sep 16 2010, 08:13 PM


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autobat
post Sep 16 2010, 07:53 PM

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my hondas

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hellcutespawn
post Sep 17 2010, 01:28 AM

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» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

thats extremely rclxub.gif japanese built it?...u send ur model to be built by japanese?
Entau
post Sep 17 2010, 08:33 AM

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QUOTE(hellcutespawn @ Sep 17 2010, 01:28 AM)
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

thats extremely  rclxub.gif  japanese built it?...u send ur model to be built by japanese?
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not mine, some work by japanese modeler that i accidentally found on the web sweat.gif
hellcutespawn
post Sep 17 2010, 10:54 AM

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QUOTE(Entau @ Sep 17 2010, 08:33 AM)
not mine, some work by japanese modeler that i accidentally found on the web  sweat.gif
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thought it urs...demm,so details...i've seen several videos on youtube showing how japanese build their model...the small/tiny parts they custom built...me don't have time to build like that...but it is a satisfaction to have that kind of custom car model... nod.gif
Entau
post Sep 20 2010, 02:24 PM

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Currently i'm building a Novitec Rosso 599, converted from a normal Ferrari 599 biggrin.gif

The original kit
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I added front splitter, rear spoiler, modified the side air vent and replace wheel to Novitec Rosso wheel
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SUSadvocado
post Sep 20 2010, 09:28 PM

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Do you make your own skirt & spoilers or you buy the parts? If DIY what material you use?
Entau
post Sep 20 2010, 10:10 PM

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I made my self, using 0.5 pla-plate aka styrene sheet tongue.gif

here's the detail process:
http://z12.invisionfree.com/ScaleModelsMal...opic=7076&st=15
SUSadvocado
post Sep 21 2010, 12:23 AM

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Can explain more about this pla-plate aka styrene sheet? Where can we get it cheap?

Also is there anyway to heat it other than cigarrette smoke?


Added on September 21, 2010, 12:24 amAnd what tool do you use to cut it?


Added on September 21, 2010, 12:26 amAnd what tool you use to remove the extra bits you glued on the side of the front skirt to make it look like 1 piece?


Added on September 21, 2010, 12:33 amAnd would using clay be good to do custom parts?


Added on September 21, 2010, 12:38 amAnd how to sand the windows without making it blurry due to scratches? Even 2000 sandpaper will make the window blurry, or no? Can we do the same on diecast windows that have minor scratches, or even CD's, Arcylic Display Cases...

This post has been edited by advocado: Sep 21 2010, 12:39 AM
Entau
post Sep 21 2010, 07:30 PM

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so many questions.. laugh.gif

Can explain more about this pla-plate aka styrene sheet? Where can we get it cheap?
you can find it almost everywhere, Tamiya have it, most model shop sell it, i got it quite cheap from ICW, 0.5mm x 6pcs for rm13 i think, in case you havent heard of ICW here: http://z12.invisionfree.com/ScaleModelsMal...wtopic=7103&hl=

Also is there anyway to heat it other than cigarrette smoke?
hot water, hair dryer, candles, any thing that produces heat

And what tool do you use to cut it?
blade, the trick is you draw a line with a sharp knife, then snap it instead of cutting many times with full force, except curve line u need to cut many times, then sand smooth

And what tool you use to remove the extra bits you glued on the side of the front skirt to make it look like 1 piece?
normal file, then sand paper 400 and 600 grit, usually i trim it with knife first, then only file, then only sand

And would using clay be good to do custom parts?
never try clay, but you can try epoxy putty (need to mix A+B type) but epoxy putty normally used for making wide bodykit or body modification, hard to make thin part like spoiler

And how to sand the windows without making it blurry due to scratches? Even 2000 sandpaper will make the window blurry, or no? Can we do the same on diecast windows that have minor scratches, or even CD's, Arcylic Display Cases...
yes, after sand with 2000, you will see scratches, those scratches can be eliminate by compound/polishing, i used tamiya coarse, fine & finish compound and also Gunze Sanyo rubbing compound 2000, yes it is same, but removing scratches is not easy task...and often time consuming tongue.gif
SUSadvocado
post Sep 22 2010, 07:53 PM

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So do you normally compound polish all the windscreens? Hows the effect? Will it still leave tiny light scratch marks? Polish in circles or what?

And do you mark the anti fog lines at the rear windows?

bentan21
post Nov 11 2010, 11:45 AM

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Hey guys im new here =D... is it to late to collect model kit?anyone here selling.. cheap reasonable price?love to hear from you guys all sifu sifu around quite hard to get new?

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