Anyone managed to find the Cartoon Series Fujimi Cars in any parkson?

You can get 1200 or even 1500 sand paper in Ace Hardware, few ringgit per sheet. I used 1000 tamiya but can still see sand lines after sanding.

Wow, your cars look just like, if not better than diecast cars. The interiors are superb.

May I know what paint you use for the chrome headlights, also the brake discs?

What material you used for the carpet?

What color/material you use for the mirrors?

And where to get seatbelts, if they don't come with 1?

This post has been edited by advocado: Sep 6 2010, 08:30 PM

May I know what brand n code is the alclad chrome? Is it shinier than the Plate Silver?

I have Metallic Color Silver Chrome not sure the difference between plate silver n it?

I'm building Fujimi cars so i guess Tamiya cars are much more advance and superior than Fujimi, but Fujimi have more choices for street cars.

So the Alclad & flockies cannot be found in local shops?

How do i use the alclad 107? Need special treatment or just think with thinner n brush?

Do you flock the car interior roof?

Hmm, if that's the case for headlights i can only bet on Silver Plate, i notice they come in 2 bottle how to mix them properly? They can be used with brush?

Which website is the cheapest for alclad & silver plate, including shipping as some website don't ship overseas, is it even possible to use airmail?

Also having problem finding seatbelts buckles, sold out everywhere. How do you apply the buckle (female) on the seat?

Also where to find those carbon paper/cloth for interiors?

If you don't use brush for the headlights, how do you paint it? Airbrush seems hard for narrow spots. Rubbing seems impossible as it's so narrow and require very very detailed painting.

Care to show us how to make belt buckle with the sheet?

Am wondering for 1/24, which company produce better kits?

Fujimi, Aoshima, Tamiya? What are the pro & cons normally for them?

So far I've only seen Fujimi kit. The body has alot of simlines need to be sanded. Interior is pretty basic, no pedals, no seatbelts, no chrome parts, metal mirrors etc. Comes with painted rims & cutted tyres. But they do have a deluxe version with metal etched parts and alot of detail smaller parts, not many cars though.

But my Fujimi has separate bumpers too, also it doesn't have any pedals. No painted headlights, No metal mirrors, No Engine or open up hoods for most cars.

I have built a Tamiya kit before it's pretty similiar to Fujimi just bumpers are with body, but your Tamiya seems more advanced with all the extra stuffs. Fujimi Deluxe do have alot of details, around hundred parts but so far i only saw Diablo SV.

What about price? Which ones are more expensive?

Also I was reading the Tamiya model magazine (English) today and they had Aston Martin on build and the bottom of the car is so detailed just like the real car.

This post has been edited by advocado: Sep 13 2010, 10:43 PM

Am curious the painted lights, do tamiya paint the transparent covers or on the body itself?

Do they have different grades of kits? I'm pretty most tamiya kits are not as detailed as the aston. I also saw the Yellow Ferrari, pretty detailed with the engine.

I haven't really checked the Fujimi Diablo SV Deluxe version, it has lots of parts but don't know if the engine can be seen. But looking at the small parts just makes me crazy.

Also learned a few tricks in making hoses & suspension. Do you do your own suspension or just use the original parts? In the magazine the guy also used those carbon like decals on the back of the seat & also engine compartment. Have no idea what decal he used & how he cut it to fit, but he wrote few long evenings just to do the seat...

And he used some sort of paint with fine patterned particles in it to make the Ferrari Dashboard look like fluffy Ferrari Dashboards. At first I though he flocked it.

This post has been edited by advocado: Sep 13 2010, 11:22 PM

Is it easy to do tracing? I mean it has to be 100% fit to look good, otherwise...

So do you use those particle paints? They are not commonly seen.

I just went to Art Friend shop i see alot of different paint for different usage, but mainly for arts, don't know if they have any special paints useful for cars, didn't have time to check them properly as there's too many types.

Also do you think model cars are kinda pricey, Fujimi dropped their price but Tamiya's still around rm100 range. I know they are different thing but for rm300-rm400 you can get a pretty decent 1/18 diecast ready painted car with all the small details just like a real car, you know all the chrome parts, headlights, carpet, bucket seat with "momo" effects, antifog wires on the back window & pretty detailed undercarriage, metal wheels etc. Also they may very well weights much heavier, more accurate, more detailed than most model kits around. Just comparing what we getting & what we have to pay for that is.

I bet these kits require alot of custom made parts to look so detailed like tiny bolt n nuts. Model kits just don't have such detailed parts.

Do you make your own skirt & spoilers or you buy the parts? If DIY what material you use?

Can explain more about this pla-plate aka styrene sheet? Where can we get it cheap?

Also is there anyway to heat it other than cigarrette smoke?

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Added on September 21, 2010, 12:24 amAnd what tool do you use to cut it?

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Added on September 21, 2010, 12:26 amAnd what tool you use to remove the extra bits you glued on the side of the front skirt to make it look like 1 piece?

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Added on September 21, 2010, 12:33 amAnd would using clay be good to do custom parts?

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Added on September 21, 2010, 12:38 amAnd how to sand the windows without making it blurry due to scratches? Even 2000 sandpaper will make the window blurry, or no? Can we do the same on diecast windows that have minor scratches, or even CD's, Arcylic Display Cases...

This post has been edited by advocado: Sep 21 2010, 12:39 AM

So do you normally compound polish all the windscreens? Hows the effect? Will it still leave tiny light scratch marks? Polish in circles or what?

And do you mark the anti fog lines at the rear windows?

It's easier to find Fujimi S15.

I haven't seen Aoshima, but Fujimi's pretty simple. Not much details regarding interior, just a 1 piece bucket with rear seats you install the front seats, gear, handbrake & dashboards.

Other parts are also pretty minimal. Few water decals.

Good for starters. Comes with painted rims.

you can get compressor with gun set for around rm400-500. Doesn't have tank but the small filter bottle act as a mini tank so the compressor doesn't run all the time with it's autocut function.

Entau u bud urs from a friend so it's consider a purchase!

You won't be using the compressor continuous. Imagine the paint you'd be using if you do.

You most likely do 1 spray for 1 minute, then you're probably need a refill. With a tank, the compressor will fill up the tank then stop, once the tank pressure drops to certain level the compressor starts topping it up. Tank gives more stable output but is bigger and heavier.

Without tank, the compressor will run when you press the pen nozzle. Even though there's no tank, the water remover acts as a micro tank so when you press the nozzle pressure goes out from the water remover triggering the compressor to start, so the initial pressure won't be that bad. So the compressor will start stop often.

Like entau say both will heat up, depending how you use it. Continuos pumping air into tank will heat it up but it doesn't need to start stop too often. Without tank the compressor will start stop often, it will heat up also but not as fast as continuous, but start/stoping might increase the wear but i'm not too sure. Just make sure it has auto stop funciton.

Anyway if you are short of money you can get one without tank 1st, you can get an add on portable tank later which just looks like a canister.

This post has been edited by advocado: Dec 21 2010, 09:17 PM

Arcylic. but most pple prefer enamel as its tougher.

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Added on January 11, 2011, 11:58 pmbtw i'm trying to touch up a scratch on my car any tips?

i bought those color coded paint from car shop and after sanding used brush to touch up but filling the scratch up is hell as the paint just won't sip into the scratch to make the surface flat. The area where i sand also become different color not sure i need to spray those areas or just apply topcoat?

After that need to sand to flat then airbrush, but the car paint are quite thick, not sure hobby airgun can handle or not if not i need to thin it.

Hope the rm6 clear coat works also.

This post has been edited by advocado: Jan 11 2011, 11:58 PM