Hi all, I'm new here, just want to share with you guys some of my previously built 1/24 cars

1/24 Tamiya S2000, change wheel to 19", added GT wing & modified bodykit



more pics:
http://z12.invisionfree.com/ScaleModelsMal...wtopic=4914&hl=

1/24 Tamiya Impreza WRC 04 Rally Japan



more pics:
http://z12.invisionfree.com/ScaleModelsMal...wtopic=6029&hl=

1/24 Tamiya Fairlady Z ver NISMO



more pics:
http://z12.invisionfree.com/ScaleModelsMal...wtopic=7106&hl=

comments are welcome

This post has been edited by Entau: Sep 3 2010, 07:23 PM

cham, yeah!

hellcutespawn, ya, i built them, wanna post more pics unfortunately there's images limits

thanks for the flattering word not really hard, patience is the key, i built very slow anyway

thanks..

headlights are original chrome in the s2000, but i use mr color Plate Silver (super metallic series) for the nismo fairlady z chrome headlight

disc brake are painted alclad chrome for s2000, impreza & nismo 350z i use photo-etch parts,


carpet it is Flocking Powder, i trace out the shape, and apply the flocking powder onto double sided tape, and apply like stickers
here's a tutorial, the difference is that he use glue, i use double sided tape, not so messy
http://www.italianhorses.net/Tutorials/Flocking/flocking.htm

mirror are metal transfers, apply like stickers, they are usually include, especially Tamiya kit

seatbelt u can try www.hobbyeasy.com, shipping is cheap if it's small item, u can also get flocking powder from there too, but limited colors

belt material i savage from those pvc fabric (shopping bag u can find at daiso)

Alclad is the brand, code is 107, depends on application, if you do it right it's shinier than plate silver

here:
http://www.luckymodel.com/scale.aspx?item_no=ALC-107

I think Plate Silver is slightly shinier than silver chrome

i'm not sure, because i usually bought those stuff online

but i heard Hobby HQ did had alclad last time, not sure now, tkting also had alclad but i not sure how much

for alclad application, it can only be airbrush, and must be airbrush on to black enamel or black acrylic base, no need to thin, use straight from the bottle

i do flock the interior roof, but honestly it is not visible

ok, i saw some flocking powder at Hobbiescorner, u can try contact "oldman" aka Lam from zero-G

here is the link:
http://www.hobbiescorner.com//index.php?cPath=47_54


or you can try look for Kit at

RSS Hobby
19-1, Jalan Wangsa Delima 2A,
Section 5, Wangsa Maju,
53300, K.L, Malaysia

KIT- 012-3923278
+603-41439968

Mon-Sat : 12 pm - 7 pm
Sun : 2pm - 6pm

(copy form cham's post )

i think Kit does have some photo-etch seatbelt, buckle i made using plastic card/styrene sheet 0.5mm, paint it black & red

normally i used to shop at www.hobbyeasy.com, shipping is cheap and lots of add up detailing parts

do not use the thinner provided in the box, I prefer to use the plate silver without mix with thinner, never try with brush though

alternatively, u can aslo try this for the headlight:
http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1397850/+280

it is a type of powder, need to rub on gloss black surface or dark glossy surface

before rubbing the powder:


after rubbing the powder:

ya, actually really can't do much without airbrush i havent try rub the powder on headlights, so not sure alclad or powder is better

the seat buckle i dun have pictures, but not really hard to do:

1) find some 1mm pla-plate/ styrene sheet
2) cut a long strip around 2mm width, then chop off around 4mm length using knife, lighty sand with 800 if neccessary
3) then cut another long strip of pla-plate around 1mm width, length around 3cm, this time use 0.3mm thickness
4) glue the 0.3mm to the 1mm pla-plate, paint the realease button red first, then only paint the rest semigloss black, after that glue it to the seat, if 3cm too long, trim to appropriate length

can't say it's very easy but not too hard either

advocado: Tamiya cars are generally easier to built, less work required, parts fitting are usually perfect, hence suitable for beginner, but less choice of cars.
Fujimi cars depend on which model, some are very detail but some are not, fitting are ok, but still require some work to get them looks good.
Aoshima cars are usually simplified, easy to built but some parts like bumpers usually warp and require some work to get them fit right..this is because Aoshima usually separated the bumpers from the body so they could make few variation on a single model, like R34, R34 NISMO, R34 blitz, R34 veildside...body same bumper different.

hellcutespawn & hiroki8704, sorry bros, i don't built for others, i had limited time for building models due to busy work, only built for myself and my built rate is 2-3 kits per year, way too slow

i can't say tamiya are more detail than fujimi, but 1 thing i can assure is tamiya cars are usually more enjoyable to be built compare to fujimi or aoshima. some of the extra stuff u see might be aftermarket stuff, not neccessary from tamiya.

BUT tamiya kit usually does come with metal transfers & window mask, and also colored tailight, that's why i said tamiya are more enjoyable to be built

price wise, u can check hlj or hobbysearch, tamiya kit are slighty expensive but i think it's worth every sen

yeah, that aston martin are quite nice, comes with engine if you seen/built Tamiya's Enzo Ferrari or Porsche Carrera GT or the Aston Martin, you will not look at fujimi or aoshima kit

the clear parts are mold in color, so no need to paint, they dun have grade, but usually from the price you can tell it got engine or dun have

the diablo sv is indeed consist a lot of parts included engine but not easy to built because some fitting issue if i not mistaken

depends, if i need to lowered the car, then i modified the suspension, if not i'll leave it as per since u install the wheel...nothing much can be seen

carbon fiber decal mainly got 2 type, twill weave & plain weave..u just search and you'll know what's the different, yeah, u need to trace out the shape first

like my impreza wrc rear poiler i had to trace out a total of 20 pieces


yeah, i think the fine particle is to create rough texture like sandpaper, to replicate texture like momo stering or bucket seat

not hard, just time consuming..and little patience
i haven't tried those particles, but i tried add putty into flat paint and spray using airbrush at long distance, works fine

you are right, a decent diecast with details just cost around rm300-400, while a car kit cost around rm100, reason is because not much people into car modeling, that's why the price is not cheap...although it is much cheaper in HK, i got my tamiya fairlady z nismo just for around rm70, but of course not included Photo-etch set, paint and flocking and etc..estimated each kit i usually spend around rm150-rm200 for everything, BUT there's some difference between model kit and die-cast, both had pros & cons

and owning a diecast & buidling a model kit had different kinda satisfaction as well

i have seen model kits much much more detail than diecast, reason is that diecast is also made by hand, some are mass, some are limited production, and usually the limited one are very expensive.

each diecast had a total building time, let say 20 hours (not including designing the mould & diecast, just paint & construction time), they try not to spend too much time on it or else they rugi workmanship, BUT you can spend many hours on a model kit, those super detail model kit takes around 1-2 years of building time, so you think which is more detail?

here's a VERY detail 1/20 F1 model kit, built by a japanese, you wouldn't see such detail in a 1/20 diecast








more pics here:
http://gdist43.com/gallery/index_23.htm

not mine, some work by japanese modeler that i accidentally found on the web

Currently i'm building a Novitec Rosso 599, converted from a normal Ferrari 599

The original kit


I added front splitter, rear spoiler, modified the side air vent and replace wheel to Novitec Rosso wheel

I made my self, using 0.5 pla-plate aka styrene sheet

here's the detail process:
http://z12.invisionfree.com/ScaleModelsMal...opic=7076&st=15

so many questions..

Can explain more about this pla-plate aka styrene sheet? Where can we get it cheap?
you can find it almost everywhere, Tamiya have it, most model shop sell it, i got it quite cheap from ICW, 0.5mm x 6pcs for rm13 i think, in case you havent heard of ICW here: http://z12.invisionfree.com/ScaleModelsMal...wtopic=7103&hl=

Also is there anyway to heat it other than cigarrette smoke?
hot water, hair dryer, candles, any thing that produces heat

And what tool do you use to cut it?
blade, the trick is you draw a line with a sharp knife, then snap it instead of cutting many times with full force, except curve line u need to cut many times, then sand smooth

And what tool you use to remove the extra bits you glued on the side of the front skirt to make it look like 1 piece?
normal file, then sand paper 400 and 600 grit, usually i trim it with knife first, then only file, then only sand

And would using clay be good to do custom parts?
never try clay, but you can try epoxy putty (need to mix A+B type) but epoxy putty normally used for making wide bodykit or body modification, hard to make thin part like spoiler

And how to sand the windows without making it blurry due to scratches? Even 2000 sandpaper will make the window blurry, or no? Can we do the same on diecast windows that have minor scratches, or even CD's, Arcylic Display Cases...
yes, after sand with 2000, you will see scratches, those scratches can be eliminate by compound/polishing, i used tamiya coarse, fine & finish compound and also Gunze Sanyo rubbing compound 2000, yes it is same, but removing scratches is not easy task...and often time consuming

Thanks subaru22b

Just complete this last week:








More pics here:
http://z12.invisionfree.com/ScaleModelsMal...?showtopic=7668

thanks hellcutespawn

madmoz, can...but other brand, not the one i'm using, usually i bought online, more choices...KL is very hard to find..and expensive

thanks!

sharp eye yeah, i didn't sand up that part nicely before i paint it,

btw..modeling car almost kinda dead in msia hor...i know less than 10 peoples still doing cars, actually the active one is less than 5