Totally legit but unfair to lose NCD. Lazy to explain, next time TT remind me I tell you absurd story on how to claim other people's NCD.

By the way, the car behind didn't claim NCD from car infront. Actually both lose NCD due to bodily injury involved.

Sorry, didn't see your original post. r3apers mia pasal

My clien't Plotong Wiga kena banged by Chiti Chiti Bang Bang infront of traffic light while red light he was stationary. He was so damn lucky to claim total loss on his 1998 Wiga, and get paid RM12,000. But then when he bring the cash go buy new car, only to find out he loss NCD, rupanya there is court case. The CCBB behind sue him for blocking the road whilst CCBB had lose control You know I know, CCBB is fault, but since bodily injury incurred, law suit had filed, rear car at fault lose NCD, the front car NCD withhold by court order. Again, you know I know, court case may last forever and ever. After 1 year, your NCD left 45%, 2nd year left 38.88%, 3rd year 30%, 4th year 25%, by the time the case settle, you go back ISM claim your NCD, you left 0% So, might as well treat it gone

Do you know NCD itself can be insured?

On the side note, the case that bugger kena, could be the panel workshop repaired his car with own damage, but didn't go knock for knock. By right, the agent can help client go chase after underwriting department to restore the NCD(if there isn't any court case that withhold the NCD) back to client. In this case, as a client you have the right go and chase after the insurance company all by him/herself, then give PIAM a call to sue the agent for unprofessional conduct(no NCD = high premium = more commission). Meanwhile, as a client, he/she's supposed to sendiri login ISM and check whether the NCD still exist

Kenot

Fully Synthetic oil can last a little longer, like 10k km, rather than normal Semi oil. Therefore, many of the seniors there would recommend 1st service to use semi instead of fully, because after 4k km you'll have to drain the fully synthetic oil out for the 2nd service.

Find out here

Remachine scratched hub RM30/hub

New brake cylinder 1 unit RM40
Labor RM25/side

Brake shoe 1 set(2 pairs) RM65
Labor RM25/set of 2 pairs

How the bill came to RM800? Fuck Plotong

Who is Leona Chin wor

Sorry, borrow your picture again.

Luke,

Refer to the above picture, the center shaft shaft was the major support of the whole back wheels. To assemble back from here, cover back the brake hub, plonk in the wheel bearing(yes, just throw it in to shaft), put in washer, then 1 big nut to tighten the bearing There's a locking pin to ensure the nut didn't fall off. However, if wheel bearing gotten severe damaged, excess vibration may snap the safety pin, then the entire backwheel + brake hub will fly off

Meanwhile, take a look at the pictures below. They're already cam out, just I didn't pay attention to it.

Nothing to shout about I just repaired 2 stick of tofu beam, a pair of brake cylinder replaced, a pair of rear absorber replaced, 1 set 2 pairs of brake shoes.

For 4AT, if u only do D, provided pedal work with 10in/hg your car will shift up within 3krpm range provided save fuel. However, after shift up you should also slightly release your gas pedal to make sure vacuum fall below 10in/hg, otherwise petrol goes to drain. Normally on 4AT the harder part to control is AFTER shift up because torque converter will smoothen the torque distribution, you wouldn't know your RPM spinning blank or actually spinning the wheels. So, driving with vacuum assistance can really help to decrease fuel consumption drastically.

After training, I guess r3apers ady adapted to the vacuum footwork, as now he can do 290km/tank even without the gauge. Well done.

Today finally finished my tank of SHELL 95, lasted 3 weeks. Statistic as below:

Total fuel up RM71.50 @ 37.634liter
Total mileage 498.9km
13.256km/liter
7.543liter/100km
0.143c/km

Overall, shell performed pretty much close to ESSO/MOBIL/PETRON on my car(all town driving). If only refer to FC wise data as below:

The engine is carburetor 4G13P 12valve manual Iswara, running at optimum setting. Valve was tuned to high lift, sounded like diesel taxi. Ignition was set to advance. Carburetor was tone to slightly lean. On idling, vacuum reading was 22~23in/hg without air-cond. 19~20in/hg with air-cond. All tuning were solely based on ESSO/MOBIL petrol back in 2009. I was driving with consistent vacuum reading between 10~15in/hg. I couldn't finish the task of testing all RON95 petrol in the market as the car been sold, unless the new owner willing to continue the test and provide feedback here. My experience with MOBIL/ESSO/PETRON was the car can do averagely above 12km/liter regardless of traffic condition, however PETRONAS and BHP wasn't up to my expectation. An old carburetor engine will not be auto adjust ignition timing, neither have an ECU to control injection flow rate, and therefore if RON too low the car will ping. If RON too high, acceleration retarded. I wouldn't conclude which is the better petrol, but I think I made a point that the car has been specifically tuned to burn with ESSO/MOBIL, and other type/brand of petrol may need some adjustment on the engine in order to maximize their effect base on the petrol quality/yield.

This post has been edited by davidke20: Sep 27 2012, 01:55 AM

Buy auto car play with shift stick, u guys really enjoying your life

Yes ar. Very little effect. Door harder to shut tight. 1 good thing very noticeable about the rubber is... Here comes the grandfather story:

Since I owned GaGa, I tend to scan around before/after getting in/out of my car Sometimes if so happen a GaGa parked side by side provided the driver is still there, I always like to get down and press my rubber, like puspakom inspection litat often those owner will eye big big look at my door rubber then they'll get down and check their car rubber also Take a wild guess, the next thing he's going to do is call up his SA & screw the bugger upside down

... ... t -_ - t obviously not

u guys faster spam lar! Dun wanto be TS anymore. Boring la

For your information, sway bar/stabilizer bar are specifically designed to work within 10% extra stiffness of the spring. For example, if both your front springs has 200kg each, then your front anti roll bar should carry 440kg weight. So, if you go for BLM spring, which possibly the front springs compress weight could reduced to 160kg each. There is possibilities that your car may not turn in to corner correctly, you may even have problem parking your car as the spring will react weirdly on the harder anti roll bar. In the long run, the stiff part of the chassis has been focused on the ARB, where the weak part will be emphasized. Sooner or later, you may have hard time to adjust your camber.

To upgrade springs from soft to hard is easier, however if you wanted to downgrade from hard to soft, that's entirely different story. So, for me/Luke to exchange spring with you isn't any problem after all, but I'm afraid it will cause you severe damage to your suspension in the future. Your rear will have no problem taking BLM/FL spring at all, but your tail will sag and looked like going to take off anytime, just like any other BLM/FL

When you're driving BLM behind a "BLM"


Since I'm having a VTEC engine


So I give VTEC engine oil a chance, surprisingly... buttdyno found dayme powderful with this EO. Pedal work become very light and easy.


New tint from Sean - DaBestOne

Taxi spring 1 ring extra compare to standard spring. It can easily carry extra 200kg at the back without sagging. In short, it is stiffer than standard BLM spring. I couldn't compare with FLX as I don't have 1. May be you can come and be my passenger to try it out by yourself.

Eh?! Koh424's house BLM SE sold ady, now komany kar oso upgred from BLM SE to inspaliah ka jealous lar. No wonder last time ask him whether got vacancy he fast fast say business very bad not hiring lar

Standard shock is oil base. After 2-3 years usage, oil seal is weaken and will leak hydraulic fluid. Ride become bumpy and floating on highspeed.

Difference between oil/gas:
oil base
1) Suction base. It pull the weight of the chassis down.
2) Comfortable
3) More expansive compare to gas base

gas base
1) Reject base. It extend up to the spring tolerence, forcing the spring to work at maximum force. Very sportty and accurate feedback on high speed cornering.
2) Can cause vomit. Bumpy ride.
3) Cheaper than gas base
4) If it fail, no physical symptom to inspect. But the whole car will sway like Shakira, very dangerous.

My front will always go for oil, and my rear will be gas. Gas is cheaper anyway.

Nick. The tint I bought was crystal blue safety tint. Heat rejection quite good. How safe? I don't know, but its thickness is really sumthing. I used to heard window glass produce "tang" sound when hit by small stones, but now it sounded like "tok", feels very solid. Price is reasonable, provided I tear my old tint by myself, otherwise they will charge RM50 extra to remove your old tint.

Iska, the gas abs for rear was 85/side include installation in Teoh Brothers. Buying stock from sparepart shop can get as low as 45/side up to 60/side, depends on how fren u r with the tauke. Oil abs will be about RM20 above the gas abs price. Front, don't know.