Nah!

It WAS an understeer, that results in driver had the false signal to overact. If you drie that route from Cheras before heading out Tun Razak, that's the corner. Try it on dry, with gradual increase speed of 80kmh on the curve, you'll realize soon your toe in not enough because the curve become sharper. At that speed, if its a wet road(with the crapped M3/M5) you'll automatically turn more as a result lose front wheel traction

Overcum:
1) Before lost control(before it skid), if you figured overspeed/understeer, you gradually release gas pedal and slowly turning into the direction to gain more grip+slow down the same time. Don't give a fu&#cc;k of rear traffic, they'll brake for you.

2) So happened you turned too much, skidded ady, maintain throttle try to gain control with mild steering action. Do not step on brakes if you do not have ABS/traction control. Don't look at rear mirror, nothing much they can help. Either they crash into you, or you crash into them. Better save an opportunity from spinning like a gasing.

3) If crashed jor, engine is dead, don't try to start. Or you'll create more harm to the already injured engine. Get down of the vehicle ask for help to push the car aside. If engine still hidup, drive to the side only decide.

That's all. Next time try to upload video lar.

Err... No way to prove you. As I mentioned, don't over react.

1) Understeer ady, don't purposely push the steering to grab fast lane in the hope to keep on the racing line with top speed unless you're in a race track. Gradually release gas pedal and correct your steering wheel. Don't small² thing go counter steer like an amateur. Oh ya! Play more DAYTONA USA from SEGA, it helps you to understand steering works more (I'm not fucking with you)

2) So happened you did pushed your steering further became oversteer, don't hit the brakes or you'll spin like a gasing. Just gradually release your steering or mild counter is necessarily. Worst case can't save, you scratch your front right fender abit on the side wall instead of crash the damn car

The accident in the video is caused of over react. During the lost control is also ANOTHER over react that causes the car crash. Post accident, engine already cut off, if you realize the driver didn't even bother to step out and have a look what happened to the car, then cranking the ignition like he/she stole the car need to get out quick. There is a good chance that he/she made a few more scratches to the crankshaft/piston wall and or snap valves

Nanti Rabu baru kasi update sama lu

Can ar, but expansive wor. Still RM1/game. Got cheaper place for Daytona mou? Been years haven't touch it liao

Let's see who is taller


Off road? So?


Mirror Mirror on the wall, who's the tallest among them all?


FC like a Kancil when I'm driving it

YAB's ride sexy okeh. See my plastered butt? That's where everybody like to kiss. 1st week already kena. After plastered ady, sumore those fucker come and kiss on the plaster again


Anyway, regardless how powderful my butt is, I'm still consider amateur compare to this 1 below


This post has been edited by davidke20: Aug 20 2012, 04:31 PM

Mine nothing happened.... no signal at all out of desperate, I smash it few times, whack whack whack until double signal lite up.... then the button stuck 9 jor Then I whack it a few more times until the button bounce out again. From there onward, I don't dare to press the button anymore

I'd like to try 500km/tank, but city driving really isn't easy to achieve that Meanwhile, I think I wanna pull out my spring buffer, you interested or not? The only reason is my TAXI spring too damn hard ady, with those things in place make it worse. So, if you ngam I keep for you.

The next time you come to KL, or the next time I go PG

Well, my all time favorite doesn't even logic on the SOUND alone

Bro, there is nothing impossible, all depends on your budget. From what I understand from my magician, only 1 mounting remain unchanged, the rest of the mountings need to reattach. A cheaper way to start with, is BOT. However, you should also consider below before you start spending:

1) A cheaper start with BOT + piggy bag to remap your fuel supply. But then, later on your hand will go itchy, from 0.2bar up to 0.4bar, then 0.6bar, then you realize you need bigger injector, lower compression, forge piston, hicam ended up no turning back. Spend more than what you've budgeted. Who knows you may ended up blown your engine and still gotta go look for a MIVEC/4G18 to plonk in for your future project.

2) Throw away the CAMPOR engine, plonk in 4G63T. Initial investment is sky rocket, but afterwards upgrade you no need to korek here and korek there already because the engine already qualified. Besides, you no longer stuck with DbW! Everything will be mechanical! Sparepart will be widely available for you since Mitshi halfcut everywhere.

OR.... like YAB. After 1st TT with the gang already gave up performance tuning on CAMPOR, after I learnt from fellow senior here that the CAMPOR is not tuner friendly

Here's your gang with BOT If you watch those trailer, pay attention the driver almost every time pass a car also purposely release gas pedal What? Sked people don't know he got turbo izit

However, I also heard of humble 4G93T(ed) GSR PERSONA around running strong, that is not even posting their picture/performance anywhere

This post has been edited by davidke20: Aug 20 2012, 10:32 PM

true also lar, nowadays I see people stick BLM OWNERS CLUB lar, SAGA OWNERS CLUB lar, Prosboc lar, FLOC lar, think pretty soon FLXOC lar, or FLXSEOC lar so many clubs do what

Then how I join Mine is BLM mar

This make a lotta sense Where to register for a club eh

You join anot Unker club mar

That's why lar, now already so many clubs, we also make 1 club standing for Unkers

Club President: davidke20
Vice President: Zeone
Technical advisor: V12Kompressor
Club Mechanic: + FC King: lhwj
Treasurer: dares
Club Marshall: kenjilew

Like this can ar

You guys serious kah A lot of work to do you know Besides, if wanna make the club free, gotta find sponsor also

Before upgrade

13 rim ayam + M3
Skid like a maniac. Float like a boat, stink like a garbage truck. Synergy M3 claims to be fuel efficient LRP tyre can only do 10km/l, max 12km/l on long distance travel. Road noise loud until rain drop also cannot hear. Inside the car chatting with passenger need to SHOUT. Trade in value, RM100/4donuts+rim+caps. Early throw away, better for environment!

195/55R15 Falken Ziex ZE522
No more skidding! No more jam brake! Recently hit 16.4km/l on super efficient FC! More often hitting 12km/l even town driving! RM150/donut. Fuck M3/M5!

The amount of fuel you save by using 15" already covered all my costs of changing donuts

Abang dares successfully traded RM30/donut, not sure abt your negotiation power. If you able to find direct buyer to inherit your tyre, its good for RM50/pc. Becuase even if you sell to tayar shop, those fella is going to mark up 100% and resell it back RM60-80. So, just post it up here as [WTS], once you get your buyer arrange time go tayar shop together you get your new tayar, your buyer gets your old tayar 1 shot! You hepi, he hepi, tayar man not very hepi but still gotta make marney.

According to dares, 55 tayar sangkut wheel arch punya prrrastic when making full turn + slope + when heavy driver in the FLX SE. BLM/FL if 55 tayar akan sagat belakang. Wa ady changed to taxi spring, now no sagat ady, can drive the damn car like an SUV liao. No doubt, I tested several FLX/FLX SE, all bumpy until my crap cum out from my pee hole, I wouldn't say that's solely bcoz of the 50 tayar(could be the M5 though), but indeed I find 55 tayar is more comfortable among them all. Pls go try abang dares mia keta so u have an idea how good 55 tayar is