I shall give it a try

Yes you can pasang both. Just don't go pek kona like no tomolo will do. Get familiarize with it 1st. The trouble with having both bars at once is, when you drive you feel no change, when you try to attack corner, the car behaviour changed. Too much steering action may drive you ON to the curb. Rear tyre pressure should anytime 3-5psi less than front tyres to gain more traction, otherwise rear wheels can easily drift.

I would also strongly advise all RSB owner first go ESSO release rear tyre pressure before proceed to 3MAX factory. You wouldn't want to experience all the crazy I've gone through. I'm consider lucky on the way out from 3MAX didn't swing my butt to hit a truck. Its a front wheel drive car, you wouldn't want oversteer anytime by any chance.

Once you get familiar having both RSB+FSB, its actually quite fun! It will be interesting to take corner with less steering action. The best part is, exit cornering earlier allows you to begin acceleration earlier! Whilst other cars doing correction during exiting corner, you're already hitting straight & over taking 2-3 cars at the same time

Nick,

R3ap3rs is the new 4AT king, he should know better than any of us. He's on his journey to become another FC king in 4AT category. Click his siggy to find out he actually put up 354km on the recent tank of petrol! Bear in mind NOT many of manual/CVT able to do that!

It all depend on your preference. Prviously I did 36PSI for all 4 to save FC. My current setup require minor changes since the car tend to over react, so I have reduce my rear pressure to 32PSI. My current ideal setup(for my car, don't know about yours) as below:

1) Drive alone - Front 36PSI rear 32PSI
2) Drive long distance with family - Front 32PSI rear 29PSI(for comfort)
3) Drive with full load of hot chicks - Front 36PSI rear 34PSI(maintain traction+able to see some bouncing boobies)
4) 0-100kmh drag race - front 24PSI rear 40PSI(can't take corner at all)

So, it depends on how you feel. Each time you go petrol station refill your tank is the good time to start exploring different kind of setup, as long as reduce rear tyre pressure compare to front wheels, I think that will be sufficient.

No. I'm on 195/55R15. You'll have to explore by yourself. My setup is only provided as an initial guidance/reference.

You have no time to listen to me on 11th Aug, too much other poison around

Not 2cents anymore, its fact because you're reading vacuum ady Keep up the good work. Hope to see 400km/tank soon. You're the official king of 4AT among us in LYN ady.

80 oni

GaGa got 1 problem. The backseat weren't enforced was reinforced with a piece of cardboard, therefore during haispeed konering chassis flex allowed more tolerance. It is very normal and easy to corner without RSB as force weren't transfer to the other end of the chassis. According to Marhaihai, the rear seat weren't braced up by factory setup is bcoz the GaGa chassis was originally designed for Savvy(which require a flexible seat to make room for storage), provided hatchback car uses tail gate to brace the rear chassis area. So I assume the slorppy tail for GaGa was BORN with its nature of design.

After Rear Seat Braced, the whole car turning eperience will be changed 180'. When chassis flex reduced, its all depending on tyre grip/absorber dampening rate & spring compress rate to maintain traction. When haispeed koner, 1 side of the force kena transferred to the other side, if tyre over inflated meaning both tyres will loose traction at the same time(instead of 1,without RSB). So, drifting in a GaGa with RSB is common. According to V12k, another unker spin his GaGa like gasing after installing RSB, then next week xrashed into a tree. Allow me not to mention name.

Persoga(sedan) was also developed from Gen2(hothatch), so I assume you'll have the same crap we GaGa(sedan) has rather than Savvy(hatchback).

Don't make me an arse. Read my previous post this morning. I'd said don't attack corners, drive gradually to have a feel of it. Chassis flex meaning allowed error tolerance, regid chassis meaning sharp & flawless control. You to decide what you want & how you want your car to behave.

U guys sure spam a lot! Everytime I catch up refresh the page, then new page cum up

After troubleshoot with r3ap3rs 4AT, he now ady sifu in 4AT So, u guys if got FC problem, please go look for r3ap3rs to rape your car. R3ap3rs is our GaGa 4AT stig

Our LYN GaGa manual stig is Luke. Manual FC problem, can let Luke "touch" your car, then the ECU will be automatically tune up. My BLM ady clocked 394km after cabin TT, being "touched" by Luke 2nd time. Tonight go home will update Fuelly

Have fun spamming. Tonight late evening got serious stuff to post. Asad, stay awake and reply me. If u late reply dun blame me

Fuelly updated. Thanks for LC2K tuning 100% town driving

The super duper announcement cancelled Sorry for FFK, sponsored product had been taken by other retailer as their sales commitment is high, compare to me 0. Asad can go back to sleep.

Congratulations. I did 16.4km/l yesterday with LC2K Gangnam Style

It's not very far below, your previous record was done at 16.2km/litre, this time is 16km/litre. There are balance fuel in tank.

I'm doing 120kmh most of the time It matters of how long it takes to shoot up.

The tank is about 42 litres in capacity(from previous petrol tank drain during hutan bakar incident). According to few reports, drive until no fuel incidents, after engine died go petrol station refill full tank can only achieve 36litres. It is suggested about 5 litres of petrol in tank were unuseable because the fuel pump couldn't reach lar, this lar, that lar, many other old saying goes. However, my believe is, the balanced 5 litres should be the buffer. For example when you're hitting a hard corner at 180kmh(if you remember zujljkakdkalkfla), you can easily imagine the whole tank of fluid will be squeeze to 1 side. What if so happen the empty side is your fuel pump?! At that speed, that rate of 10.1:1 compression, without fuel supply, within second.... you'll have the greatest excuse for go for CPS or cheaper way Boley Letak Mivec



Burning lean at 180km/h can burn a hole on your piston within seconds(or you can try to clutch it to see whether GaGa fly higher than a dugong)

This post has been edited by davidke20: Aug 8 2012, 06:59 AM

Firesotrm: increase spark in combustian, as a result better ignition. According to V12 our pioneer, save fuel & smooth drive

Front strut bar: precise handling, responsive handling

Rear Seat Brace: increase rear rigidity, not much affect on casual driving, but fun when you go berserk

All 3 can be added with sufficient fund

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Added on August 8, 2012, 8:38 amMy apolagy, I was exegeret/exagrete/exeragate... how to spell that word. My driving eversince hutan bakar incident has been slightly aggressive. Normally at straight road its easy to get to 15in/hg at the speed of 120kmh. Within town I'm more or less the same like you 80/90kmh. We did that during midnight run

However, I believe FLX can do better! Some data accumulated from previous midnight run with Asad shows the Getrag GB has a better gear ratio assembly. From stationary to 2nd shift has a lot more room to utilize torque. As I observed you driving both your SE & my car, you hardly use 1st gear even the car almost stop infront of traffic light. I'd say the S4PE has over powered the achi kuku GB. Example, 1st gear over powered, car jerk; same speed 2nd gear, fall out of torque band, engine vibrate. I'd like to do further test with Asad's FLX to find out more(gonna molest his IAFM+ abit)

This post has been edited by davidke20: Aug 8 2012, 08:38 AM

below is my testimony

Asad said, "WTF?! Y.A.B how did you do that?! The faster you go, lesser petrol you use?!!?!!" Whilst we're chasing by a Nissan Xtrail, my vacuum gauge dragging down from 10 to 15in/hg, speed around 120kmh. We're bullied, need to quickly speedpass vehicle from our left lane to make way for the fucking Xtrail that haibeaming us despite we're doing 90kmh ady.

Will you be joining our strut bar installation TT? I'll take you out for a spin, it will be better if you allow me to do it in your car in less traffic condition. I will show you how to save petrol whilst driving like late to work.

My waifu told her hot chick ex-classmate during their reunion lunch, even weekend the husband also driving like late to work(actually she was trying to disgrace me, but I felt damn proud lar ).

Like coolkwc said, nothing special with blockb shifting. My dad uses block shifting often. I used to blockshift as well. Previously when I drove "comanykar" 4A blacktop. Overtaking/kena challenged required to drop shift from 6th to 3rd gear with ultra hai pitch single clutch BEM! Only the car can sprint, if drop from 6th to 5th, feel nothing geh.

Nowadays, eversince kena poluted by your double clutching gangnam style ady, I did mostly 2xsingle clutch BEM!BEM! To drop gear from 5th to 4th, from 4th to 3rd.

As for block shifting up, unless a super steep uphill that required 2nd gear, after the tip of the mountain, I'll block shift to 5th gear & let the car cruise(declutched) standby to clutch whenever needed. Other than that, I think not applicable. Pushing RPM too hai to block shift seems unwise unless necessarily.

S16/S13 manual 2nd gear & above no clutch shifting can,but harm sychronizer. Actually all manual cars the same lar!

I did no clutch shifting was a 80Supra with sequencial GB

Ayam kambing to install secret weapon purposely cancel my balek kampong trip to BEM BEM with you guys

Old Berry no access to youtube, somebody post my youtube daytime run video for Noobdao so he can see some RPM action. The other day I watch it only figured my speedometer hardly drop below 100kmh even downshift for corner

I only drive Plotong I love Plotong, especially Plotong GaGa 1985 model. I also like Wiralution, Wajalution, inspirution, Savtu(Savvy kahwin MR2), Sagalution, Boley Letak Mivec. We're proud malaysian, should proud of barangan buatan malaysia

Kakak, itu subframe were purposely made to break. In the event of accident, it will break together with the member and bring the whole engine down(or fly away if direct side impact), in order to make way for a safe crumple zone(fender, bonet, front chassis and our precious 3MAX strut bar).

To dispose this in a proper manner, you go besi buruk ask them to chop off all the breaking(fractured) member, otherwise the besi buruk will ketuk back the shape, use a piece of besi brakepad(1 of the hardest iron in the car) welding on the breakoff point and resell it as barang "rekon". The "new owner" of the "ex-pizza" subframe will face several issues

1) During accident, crumple zone gone case, direct impact to driver. Small case, knee joint gone. Big case, engine masuk cabin. The rest you imagine

2) If "rekon" punya kungfu tak pandai, tak pakai brakepad plate kasi welding, original injured akan jadi bent balik/patah. Imagine, whilst the car travelling at 110kmh kat NS Hiway, suddenly engine jatuh dari engine bay, firewall crash own engine...

3) Kalau bengkok balik, wheel alignment lari lar, driveshaft makan kuat lar, engine mounting kantoi kuat lar, keta goyang² lar. Cuma 1 kebaikan, front part FREE LOWERED.

So, you pikir baek² lah.

If your question is, what needs to be check before sign the paper(delivery note)
1) check engine oil whether sufficient/radiator tank/brake fluid/power steering fluid, whatever you can reach also check
2) start your engine, make a small test drive to carpark, make sure the speed meter working. check for brake as well
3) akon got cold or not
4) check all 6 windshields got crack or not
5) bring along CD/MP3 USB drive, pump up the sound system, by right original clarion speaker + clarion 15w speaker at the back, volume 30 should be within tolerance level without bunyi pecah like pasar malam sell pirated DVD
6) Last, exterior checking, whether got scratch mark/kemek anywhere.
7) Check all the lights, hazard/reverse/3rd brake light whole rear combi + registration plate light
8) All new tyres came with tiny needles(paku). By reading your tyres you know what the SA did to your car, until what extend they punish your new car, how far have they been travelling with your NEW car. Normally those new tayar paku will peel off within 20km.

Last but not least, go back home immediately masuk MyEG check whether got kena saman or not

I guess that pretty much covered everything(despite I don't buy new cars), but basically those are the things I check when I buy a car.

Actually all fixed. Now after many days, dunno what they put in the cabin, the face lari again