NGV?!!??!?! OK. Here is the deal, I'm no mechanic, I can only answer based on my experience.

The only NGV I played with is a WAGA with campor engine. Came with a missle arm switch


When running on gas, RPM goes slightly higher around 1100rpm, whereas petrol is 800rpm. So, easy to say there must be something intervene the throttle body to suck more air+gas on the GAS idling speed. So, below are the fact and point as I can remember:

1) Gas idling vacuum pull more, suck more gas than petrol to keep the engine running
2) Petrol driven campor engine, normal idling vacuum is around 17in/hg only
3) When applied load(driving for example), vacuum reading shoot up near to 0, once smooth cruising will maintain around 20in/hg when running on gas
4) When applied load, vacuum reading able to maintain within 5~15in/hg when running on petrol. Unless you slam on the accelerator, very rare to see 0 vacuum.

The above should be NORMAL setup for gas/petrol powered motor. As for troubleshooting...

1) On idling, vacuum ranging 15~23 is very healthy engine.
2) On idling, with aircond compressor vacuum drop 2~3in/hg is very normal as part of the torque went supply cooling effect(GaGa's SANDEN compressor is differernt story)
3) On idling, vacuum reading should be STABLE.
4) On idling, if vacuum reading flicker meaning 1 of more valve couldn't close tight
5) On idling, vacuum reading goes above 10in/hg(less than 10) meaning there is a leak somewhere
6) On idling, vacuum point to 0. Your car can't move at all. Even if it move, either instant die off or continue drive slow + hutan bakar effect
7) On normal driving, during pickup vacuum went above 10in/hg(less than 10) is very normal, as long as the car cruising smoothly, vacuum reading should drop down between 10~15in/hg.
8) When driving, above 10in/hg burning rich. Petrol/gas burnt out of nothing
9) When driving, between 10~20in/hg is burning stoich. Efficient.
10) When dirving/downhill, vacuum drop below 25in/hg is burning lean... result is...

Source from Urbandictionary

Hope this help. I'm no sifu, but I normally clutch the car during downhill(provided the road is clear and not in a corner).

All having the same whistling sound as expected due to paper filter restriction. As long as windspeed does not compromise, rest assured is clean cabin and longer lasting cooling coil.

Rust proofing... don't know. I got no warranty, so never bother to find out. Let others to take this.

Don't trust them TCSS. More importantly is to mod something you can see! Worth the marney

1) Put gauges in the cockpit,RPM,VOLT, VACUUM,BOOST,oil pressure,oil temperature,water temperature,exhaust temperature,exhaust CO. Dunno how to read or didn't sambung wire also nevermind, as long as make it looks like a spaceshuttle cockpit. last but not least a turbo timer!

2) EVOLUTION III universal fit bodykit ftw! Make sure get a CAMPOR 16V TURBO INTERCOOLER sticker. Get a GT wing for yourself. Lastly, go kedai akon cari cooling coil bocor, spray it to bright silver and stensil a HKS logo on it, have it hook beneath the front grill so it looked like intercooler

3) A fancy wheel cap that has continue motion type. Even your car stopped at traffic but your wheel cap still spinning!

4) Lately damn a lot FSB/RSB bulk, don't buy them!!! Increase weight, FC compromise! Get more sticker & LED stripes better. Car looks garang, driver upgrade! Horse power +100hp, now 194bhp

Left over money buy us dinner

P/s: the above are jokes. I'm fucking with you. Congratulations you just wasted few minutes in your life reading crap. Please do the exact opposite on the above suggestions cheers

Sharing on 3MAX+ULAR onboard driving experience, do not read if you don't have time.

1) Upgraded 3MAX RSB on the car, immediately felt the whole car being upgraded. Rear wheel action has been totally upgraded. On the way out from 3MAX factory can felt the rear has been tighten as my rear wheels jumped over gate rail instead of slorppy lazy boucing around.

2) Was deeply poisoned by RSB, immediately install FSB to see the difference. Unfortunately, because I installed RSB first, when I have not familiar with new upgrades, the car behave differently that almost hit an accident. 2nd day after installation, wifey brought the car, scratched my right side seal whilst taking a right corner. Steering action has been upgraded as she didn't realized I upgraded the car that causes such accident. Good thing is, until today she still didn't know there's extra bars in the engine bay & back seat brace. However, she did asked why the "rack" color so white compare to the car yellowish bodypaint. I said because its hiding in the engine bay, that's why it still white. This is the initial stage of FSB/RSB installed. I'm suffering from trying to handle the car as it will scream on almost ALL the corners I take.

3) Test drove Luke's SE, interestingly found out the "lost" feeling with ONLY FSB installed on his car. Steering action is exactly the same as mine! When acctack corner, braking slight toe out, car start to turn, immediately bite the corner! Every corner I take, I know where exactly the car will get out from the corner. The only difference with FSB+RSB is, with RSB rear wheels tend to skid more often. Figured release rear tyre pressure to balance out rear wheels traction. After that is all good. Able to drive normally and start to enjoy again.

4) Test drove GaGa BLM white evil twin brother with ULAR FSB/RSB. I have gain a 180' point of view with ULAR! ULAR bars provide exact same feeling as the car originally posses. Best of it is, the car overall handling has been upgraded. It doesn't make u suffer from trying to handle the car, instead its very easy to control. I feel the absorber working harder, I feel the spring compress more than usual, I feel the tyre grip being fully utilize! Every corner I take, I take with confident! However, 1 thing I concern which is the lack of crisis feeling. I wouldn't know when is the limit until I hit the limit. When that happens, either I buang to donut spin already! Overall, I think ULAR is a better amateur mod compare to 3MAX, easy handling and has the overall improvement kind of feeling. But if you're an hard ass that seeking ultimate control, 3MAX is the way!

5) Booked appointment with EA, thinking wanted to sleeve my fender to avoid further sagat in future. Went to EA on a beautiful afternoon, ended up ULAR room bar + rear lower bar on the car! Sagat issue... Forgot to fix Basically the car makes no difference. But then, interestingly the rear sliding issue has been iron out! Rear wheel traction follows exactly as front when doing hard cornering. I did a few run, found the the FSB effect has been emphasized. As long as I don't over turn my steeringwheel, nothing serious. But if I go gymkhana way, iskazulka at my backseat can tell you, its violant! Overall, the car has been upgraded to this stage, I'd say most of its chassis works has been maximized. Some of the driving joy has been compensated. Imagine you hangout with a hot lady, where she does everything you asked for, no challenge & no fun. I have the exact same feeling. Bear in mind, suspension is stock.

6) Tested r3ap3rs car, surprisingly it felt exactly the same like the GaGa white evil twins with ULAR FSB/RSB. I didn't do thorough cornering, but felt the overall improvement is great, comfortable and easy to handle. I wouldn't know the car has those bars in existance if I didn't see it. It will felt more like good suspension/spring/tyres instead.

7) Midnight run with Luke in my GaGa. I said I love my GaGa Luke said, "me too"

So ood lar u guys, talk about kedit kad sumore. Me all these while use kesh saje

no FS for me for the time being. No money to mod car liao. Dun have hai limit prasstic kad like you guys all richfag. Only kad kedit I have is RM2000 limit masterkad for petrol+insurance nia.

Need to save money for side lower bar Btw, this saturday may be able to join you guys

He quote me 298, diskaun 10, +12 installation, all in 300 if I'm not mistaken.

Drexchan from EA autoworks fai tit cum clarify. Dun later I promote wrong price u cum fuck gao me

Depends on how u interpret it. I write figure better for your understand:

When driving between 0-10in/hg is burning rich.

When driving between 11-20in/hf is stoich. A/F nisbah ngam-ngam. Fuel itself act as coolant to chill down the burning temperature.

When driving 25/26/27/28/29/30in/hg, this is burning lean(exclude idling). Lean burning creates hai heat!

When cruising downhill, wheel momentum will tarek the driveshaft, driveshaft tarek final gear, final gear tarek back clutch, clutch spin flywheel, flywheel pusing crankshaft, crankshaft tarik conrod, conrod turun with piston, piston tarek angin... at this time gas pedal sudah lepas, minyak/gas talak masuk, tapi piston tarek angin kuat, bila piston naik sampai abih on top of the combustian chamber, heated oxigen + minimum idling fed amount of A/F will ignite either by sparkplug or self ignite if RON too low. Normally during downhill, vacuum will hit 26in/hg, dangerously lean. Some said during downhil their temperature gauge shows temperature drop, now I dare not to say I'm right. Does the water temperature sambung at radiator tank? Or inside the combustian chamber? If your engine burning lean become very hot IN the combustian chamber, will you know it by reading the radiator tank?

Genting uphill might not kill the car; most probably downhill.

My usual YAB style David Singahlingam reply. Correct me if I'm wrong. U fren2 with Gajah a not? Next time come TT lar, in the end we're Campor brothers mar

Don't buy slut bar, later total loss

YB dares,

May I suggest tered layout as below?

#1 remain useful info for GaGa
#2 pictures of proud owner,include my vios BLM
#3 on going bulk activities / TT
#4 succesful bulk / TT history

Will this be good? Think its good to keep track of successful activities, in future we have reference. Anyways, these are YAB suggestions, in the end you're the boss. Gagangnam Style rock!

Aiyo! Kidding nia. You may need to do some reading on my review as I'm the guinea pig of RSB, previous bulk order all left me do experiment in my car. Be sure you understand what to expect, only you wouldn't feel throw money into the drain. Here you go:

This post has been edited by davidke20: Aug 6 2012, 04:39 PM

and more to read from previous post

Not a problem. Just suggesting. Please remove the cabin bulk.

I like it very much Well organized YB. Must find 1 day snap a proper photo for my GaGa lar kena laugh TRD so damn long ady, face also yellow ady.

By the way, where is huzaifa eh

Aircon cabin paper filter

Local pickup on 11th August, 2012 Subang USJ 3MAX factory TT
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Have not update payment and or shipping detail/arrange for COD
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Kawan, can wait a not? I may be up around mid October, must also pay my uncle a visit lar since ady 10 years. By the way, have you get the package? I see it still stuck at post office when I check online

12. davidke20 - paid full amount (secret weapon)

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Just keep an eye on your vacuum

This post has been edited by davidke20: Aug 6 2012, 11:46 PM

You're the master in training 4AT beast, so I have no judgement on that but I'm sure that's your forte now.

The best part is, for AUTO driver is even more easier to understand the importance of GEAR vs VACUUM compare to those manual lads. I still hearing people go 2krpm shifting, 2krpm shifting. You go tell people you only use 3rd gear to achieve 310km/tank on 4AT I bet nobody will believe you after all

Next time midnight run ajak you along? can get permit anot your home female tiger?

Yea I just saw that. Pretty amazing by just slightly changing driving habit, and the FC had became another story. Am still waiting to test a FLX. Speaking of which, where is my FORGE sticker

downshift if want to tekan remember, the key is VACUUM, not RPM.

How can I not going this caturday?

Gear ratio is fixed, there is no way your car can suddenly run fast with less RPM. Besides, I reckon you're driving an AUTO BiBA. Even if there's somebody curi² go in upgrade, that will be 1 extra final gear added to the gearbox that allows you to travel 200kmh@2000rpm instead of FireStorm, so most probably during that time you're driving a 6AT BiBA instead(if it really happen lar).

The only explanation on your case will be the tachometer sot jor. Even if you see the RPM is below 2krpm, but I think you can still hear the engine whining louder as speed increase. How sot is the meter.... that I have no idea. It could be just so happened it got stuck after many days under hot son, or it did start to die