I just wrapped 2 thick newspaper and placed them underneath the jack where those ends touch the rim.

Liqui-Moly meant for diesel engine, thats why will leak out in petrol engine...


I doubt it has anything to do with the lube tho, have to check where it leaked from.

And you believe that !!! The pack sticker must be printed wrongly coz Proton tech says its meant for diesel...

This is old news lar....thats why I avoid using these brands if buy from unknown sources. Barhdahl also one of the most popularly imitated brands too even tho its already consider a budget FS. There's a lot of fake bardahl in the market.

My hondas using Idemitsu FS also purchase from outside with RM40 cheaper....initially also worry its fake but after using for 2-3 change, so far engine still silent at near 5K, engine vibration still minimal as usual (FS less vibration than mineral or semi), performance still good as usual, so thats why still continue using even tho there is still a lingering doubt there up to now.

Its not likely to be imitated tho coz Idemitsu is not widely available at part shop. It goes directly to car workshop or service centre, no selling to part shop thus market demand is not high unlike those shell, castrol, bardahl, etc. I'm betting on this point to continue buying my idemitsu fs from this source.

One of key reason of brake not work so well for B and M line is the brake bump. B and M is using the brake bump used in 1.3 saga that provide insufficient braking power for 1.2 tons 1.6 liter PE.

H-Line is using brake pump used in Gen 2 or is it Satria Neo....not sure...but its a brake pump MEANT for 1.6 liter car like PE, thus H-Line has sufficient braking power coupled with ABS that makes braking distance ok even for stock brake pad.

The most metal shaving from within your engine from borewall, piston etc when their new and brush against each other before "comforming" or "blending" their shape to each other will go into your lube. Thats why 1st 1K change is crucial, to drain out these major shaving. The 2nd change at 5K is to remove those extra shaving and remaining residue as it will continue to have metal particles shaving before the engine become "veteran". Thus IT IS also important to drain out these contaminant as soon as possible at 5K change. Dragging it longer means when addictives wear down and lose suspension holding and lubration strength, where do you think these metal particles will scratch against?

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Added on August 7, 2012, 3:46 pmAnd trust the Cose guys on taking good care of your car long term with their fame tidak apa and proton like this wan attitude??

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Added on August 7, 2012, 3:53 pmHowever do note, lots of modern engine actually might already done these pre-change in factory, thus for eg, Honda City does not need to change lube at 1K service. Some car manufacturer using FS just goes from new car to 10K service as the engine has been "pre-run" with lube change BEFORE delivering to customer.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Aug 7 2012, 03:53 PM

I'm commenting on the written invoice by Cose and SC...not your comment actually. SC just put 1+5K = 6K for next service disregarding the actual service schedule of 5K.

I meant the service manual indicate 5K, but Proton SC just follow 1K+5K. So which one is right by Proton standard?

Most car manufacturer also have 1K service but always follows the 5K service interval at 5K not 6K. Suspected it might be for recording convenient anyway.

There is actually nothing wrong with extending it to 6K since technically its a 5K service beginning from 1K. The reason I recommend earlier at the schedule 5K is as mentioned in my earlier post. If extend, not much harm done tho...but with some shards residue in lube from 1st change, its better to change earlier than later to reduce the possibility of damage, only possibility but for us, the lesser such occurance the better, so not a must. If you want to extend up to 7K, I don't think SC will question also....

I've already bought Havoline semi and should be trying it out for my 25K service end of this month or early next month.

I think after going to Cose for small and big servicing up to 20K, I'm going to go to the very small Klang Bukit Tinggi SC instead unless I have something to claim tat Klang BKT SC don't have. Reason, its MUCH nearer and most importantly I can see what they are doing. That means I'm going to change my denso spark plug there as well during 40K to ensure it goes into my engine. For CoSE, we just have to rely on them saying they have change. Give good lube, don't know the technician gasak or not also.

Oh btw, some post above mentioned using SPIII for ATF, ya...PETRONAS SPIII should be good, not sure, maybe proton SPIII phasing out coz the SA in COSE mentioned they're using Petronas SPIII now by default.

Thats RM8 more expensive than established new SN rated Caltex Havoline semi.

Mobil 1 is a very establish lube, petron is unknown...

C-Drive 2 although has some nice review.....also have quite a number of complain on tyre noise after it's tread started to wear down. Since I'm not going to change my tyres yet, will looking forward to muslayer review after like 15K mileage to check for performance degradation rate and the supposedly famed tyre noise.

Since I keep to stock size, currently only 2 tyres choice available, Michellin XM2 and Yokohama C-Drive 2.

Where got RM80 havoline wan...

It's RM104, Havoline are only sold in Caltex station, from what I know. Limits fake brand imitating them.

Yes, synthetic blend is semi.

Worth it or not depends on your priority. My City uses Idemitsu FS and I CHANGED lube every 5K mileage but my priority is comfort, minimal vibration, minimal engine noise over price and the fact that I will use the car for a long time (6 years approaching 7). The fact is my wife needed 5 to 6 months to hit 5K mileage nowadays helps a lot to maintain FS usage.

For my PE, I used semi coz I can finish 5K within 2.5 months if I don't alternate it with my other cars. So FS is too expensive for my 5K service interval.

IMO, if one cannot afford to service every 5K - 6K, then its best to use semi or mineral and change at 5K, garantee engine cleaner and better maintained for those uses FS with 10K interval. Again if priority is smoother performance, minimal vibration, etc, then that is another story.

I'm not sure but isn't bardahl FS near that price.

Anyone know the location of AES camera in Federal Highway and Kesas Highway or not?

I've been speeding a lot nowadays during Puasa month without realising AES is actually on. I tot it will be activated only in September.

If both highway activated liao, I also die liao coz since I've been speeding 130-140km/h in kesas and 110-130 in both highway everyday...going bankcrupt becoz of summons....

On side note, PE become useless liao coz it excel the best at such speed...if go 90km/h in Kesas and 80km/h in Federal every working day, I going to die in accident becoz I will fall asleep driving in early morning and night...

Going to sell my PE and get a slow moving car.....a lorry maybe, accident at 80km/h boleh mati kah...

This post has been edited by Cavino: Aug 9 2012, 03:51 PM

But not at 6:40am in the morning or 5-6pm evening tho....coz rarely see one at these hours.

AES implementation.....summons goes up, fatal accidents goes up coz everyone falls asleep, car bullying goes up coz lots of ppl get hot temper and frustrated travelling at unrealistic highway speed set by the authorities...

Havoline lube IS caltex's.

So far a couple of members here used b4, vouch for it. Our prev TS strongly vouch for it if using semi. Supposedly one of the better semi around. I myself will change to Havoline semi at the end of this month.

As for Shell fuel, I think its ok (shell card mah, free petrol with limit) coz I'm using it but preference still given to Esso / Petron. Esso tends to give slightly better pickup and overall fc saving.

btw, Cose accept outside EO, so bring your own. So far I've never actually heard actuall warranty void becoz use outside EO. Just make sure its not a fake coz if engine damage becoz of FAKE or unknown branded lube, SC truly can reject warranty. Branded and genuine lubes will not cause any damage to engine, so no warranty issue.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Aug 10 2012, 10:07 AM