Oh...my latest feedback on the change of the new Havoline Semi with the new SN rated API.....

I've change BOTH air filter and engine oil at the same time.....as mentioned before intially the engine vibration increased noticeably along with the engine noise. Seems to have a lose of pickup power a bit and slower to get to higher rpm. Not sure if it is caused by the air filter change or engine oil.

However after 200-300km, the vibration returned back to normal. So does the engine noise. By the time it hit 500km, vibration is still same but when moving, it feel slightly less vibration than when using Petronas. Engine noise reduced further and now is noticeably more lower than previous Petronas lube. When travelling at higher speed, engine noise sounds a bit muted compared to before oil change...acceleration especially at higher speed is more silky smooth. At lower speed, not much difference but torque seems to be better but I attribute that to the new air filter change as well.

Wonder why the noticeably increased vibration and engine noise earlier...maybe new engine oil is fitting in kuah...whatever that is..

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Added on September 12, 2012, 10:26 amMy 1 year old stock HU suddenly had my CD stuck inside. HU does not recognise that there is a CD inside. Pressing eject has no response, changing mode will skip the CD mode altogether as HU could not detect phsyical disc in it.

Is there anyway to extract the CD manually without tearing the HU out from there?

This post has been edited by Cavino: Sep 12 2012, 10:26 AM

The mitsubishi FS not tested over here, so don't know the performance on our engine. Cusco FS low friction formula bulks here has a number of proven and tested users here. The high amt of PAO synthetic based along with excellent feedback with darn low pricing (for this type of FS) is worth it if you want a FS. However currently have inconsistent stock supply, so if you like it after usage, you might suddenly find the supplier out of stock....so better stock up.

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Added on September 12, 2012, 11:44 amZen, one question on the Cusco low friction FS. Is there written anywhere that it is a RACING oil ?

This post has been edited by Cavino: Sep 12 2012, 11:44 AM

My CD still stuck inside my stock HU and radio still cannot detect...contemplating changing HU if cannot play my MP3 CD.

Is there any HU in the market that can use back the remote control button on the steering wheel. So used to it. Also what happen to the USB port then, when change HU, do we remove the port as well that is located in the 2nd slot. Totally newbie on HU.

Ya, thinking of the reset mechanism but don't feel like touching my batt....also HU go cookoo before this liao on CDs, so probably will change HU....but really would like to keep the remote on the steering.

Haha....you're kidding right? On the air-cond thingy.

LCP sort of bring forward the torque curve thus we can reach higher torque faster than without it. It gives a noticeable boost at low to mid rpm but somehow reduce the torque on the higher end.

All this was works WITH or WITHOUT aircond on...of course with air cond off, more power are diverted back to the engine....so more torque there vs with air-cond on. Technically it does not really increase the torque from nothing, as mentioned, it bring forward the torque in earlier. Saving petrol....I don't notice any difference, just better acceleration at lower end negated by you stepping on accelerator to pecut faster.

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Added on September 13, 2012, 8:26 pmJust copy the latest list (last person who updated it)...and add your name in it. Repost the list with your added name.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Sep 13 2012, 08:26 PM

It was advisable not to keep lube for too long.

Taken from Bob the Oil Man site...

If lube, even if unopen has some....

• Settling out of the additives as a gel or sticky liquid
•Floc or haze
•Precipitates/solid material
•Colour change or haziness

Can throw away liao. As a guideline keep lube no more than 3 years at most before usage.

There is a difference between RACING oil and standard road going oil. In general Racing oil has high sheer protection with increased anti-wear addictives. However it has much lesser detergent. High temp racing is good but for long term daily drive, the massive reduction of detergent addictives is going to create sludge issue later. Do note most cars used for racing do overhaul and oil change after every race, thus racing oil does not really bother too much abt long term engine protection.

Is the iridium power plug that we used, IK20? I can't remember. If yes, then it has only 20K mileage life, not 30-40K.

Becoz iridium power is a performance spark, not the long life iridium type. Long life usually last 80-100k. Iridium power IK20 in global denso stated 15-20K mileage only.



This post has been edited by Cavino: Sep 20 2012, 11:48 AM

I think it applies to all Iridium Power range.

Just read up 1 guy uses IT20 12K mileage = 20k kilometer. Spark center conductor habis.....

So I suggest not using our Denso Power IT20 more than 20K kilometer max.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Sep 20 2012, 12:03 PM

After reading more articles from denso overall (they never give exact life span)...I come to conclude in general Denso Iridium Power plug should be able to last maxed 50K mileage. By then probably performance degraded to max.

Most vendor recommended 30k to 40K change. I think I will either go for 30K if got $$$ or 40K if no $$$. Don't think I want it to go 50K...the eroded performance and fc probably did not worth that 10K mileage.

The post indicated eroded 20K is over 10 years old....so I guess technology has advance greatly. However global denso STILL list Denso Power IK20 as 15K to 20K kilometer vs oem/tough 100K. So.....up to your interpretation.

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Added on September 20, 2012, 4:12 pmActually those denso iridium that can last 100k km is iridium tough not power. Power is performance, tough is long life. OEM usually used something similar to tough.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Sep 20 2012, 04:15 PM

Denso global STILL give comparison of Power IK20 as 15K to 20K kilometer vs OEM/tough 100K kilometer....so...

Got lar....its somewhere in global denso website comparing Power IK20 vs OEM iridium by Denso. Cannot find link coz I browse here and there ones, don't know where it goes.

Anway got this from Myvi forum again somewhere...

Reply from Denso Japan....

"We suggest recommended Iridium Power life span is around 30000km.
This longer life time is derived from world smallest 0.4mm Iridium electrode.
The finer electrode diameter, the smaller required voltage. If the required voltage is
smaller, spark plug can last longer.
The Iridium Power life span 30000km does not mean just after 30000km, Iridium Power dies.
If you still feel good engine condition,
you may continue to use our Iridium Power.
Is DENSO Iridium Power now famous in Malaysia?"


So 30K optimum, 40K max. Also read if life span is 30K, its best to change b4 the max life span coz when misfiring, etc start occuring more frequently, your fc and power degradition not worth the extension. However if car still save FC (PE save FC?????) and still same power....like above mentioned, up to us to judge.

Found it...hahaha.....take that, you big dumbo

http://www.globaldenso.com/en/products/aft...idium/qa_6.html

And about extract from myvi forum, it is aboute the quote Reply from Denso japan. Myvi or not, if its direct reply from denso, I think I'll take it at its face value.



This post has been edited by Cavino: Sep 21 2012, 03:57 PM

Nanti dia masuk kerosene and you'll get the blame for your reply...

Performance....I believe thats the difference. Denso Power is more about performance than long life. Denso Tough is more about long life.

Difference between Denso Tough and OEM long life iridium...I believe aftermarket iridium like denso 0.4mm taper while provide the same long life...might provide better performance throughout vs OEM iridium.

Probably meant for those where every miniscule performance increase matter.

From Densoirridium.com

"Serious tuners modify their vehicles by increasing boost through turbo-chargers, super-chargers, and Nitrous. They are also known to add high-energy ignition systems, tinker with timing, adjust fuel mixture ratios, and increase horsepower through other means. Putting these kinds of demands on their engine increases the need for an efficient, durable spark plug that can handle these kind of harsh environments. That's where DENSO Iridium Power can make a major difference."

Unfortunately camptakpro does not fit into that category.......we bought the wrong iridium lar...

The one we have in mind is actually Iridium Tough.....the long life type.

Nice info on the plugs, I totally know nuts abt plugs....only know need to change 10K, 20K, 100K mileage. How efficient it works, no idea at all, put in stock plug also I don't know. Based on what u mentioned, probably I will use it for 40K mileage with optimal performance then change new plug.

Anyway the risk of wrongful re-gap seems quite high and if we weight the cost of the plugs (noted already used till EOL, so cost is even lower, less than RM80 actually) vs the risk of total engine failure.....not worth the risk, IMO. Peace of mind, just change to a new plug, safer by a lot and only cost RM140-RM180 for 40K mileage.

A long life OEM iridium costing abt RM300 for OEM honda, etc can last 80K to 100K but performance wise still lose out to iridium power. We change twice iridium power making 80K in total, almost same cost as 1 set of OEM iridium yet attained better performance due to our 0.4mm thingy, IMO.

PE H-Line ok lar for...mmm.....for now only 1 year old, personally, its better than when new, coz LCP push the low torque to acceptable level and almost all noise that plague the car for first few month (rear door, back seat, seat), all gone, either magically and DIY. Using better EO with same price.....Caltex Havoline semi even lowered the engine noise abit.

If 2nd hand car value is a key issue, Civic will be the one to go, rarely drop price, only goes up. Depreciation rate of Civic, IMO, is one of the best around vs other similar range. Of course don't go for the 7th gen 1.7cc one, that one got torque dip issue. 8 gen is good, engine no prob but 1.8cc is going to be a bit underpowered at low torque, better than PE anytime tho. FC is going to suffer a bit, imo, lebih makan sikit than PE but then again, its a MUCH bigger car and very comfortable with acceptable handling, unmodded.

Ya, it's safer to buy from caltex petrol station. Garantee no fake. Don't know havoline got fake or not, better no risk it unless the its a verified reliable source.

Syntium 800 almost same price (RM103), the new sn-rated havoline perform almost the same but produced less engine noise and vibration (maybe). Seems smoother in acceleration. SN rated lube have enhanced wear and sludge protection vs standard sm rated lube. However since good brands lube usually exceed SM rate guideline, it really depends on lube quality.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Sep 26 2012, 04:02 PM