Get yourself a dry battery aka Maintenance Free Battery. A bit more expensive but exceedingly useful for lazy ppl like us since it doesn't dry up although battery life is a bit shorter than wet battery. But then in your case, definitely way longer especially if battery is usually left at the mercy of SC. Never do check on my car batteries since I started using MF batteries for ALL my cars....save me lots of trouble.

If really battery kong (since batt no water) and no waranty, actually can change new battery on spot. No need to tow. If really battery problem, will start and work as usual although settings such as radio, ECU will be reset. Drive for abt a few days to a week, your car will perform back as usual. No need to wait for repair...aka repair what...battery? Just change it and walla, your car will be running.

Actually most brand also same same only. For MF, I'm using Panalite for both of my vehicles (Honda City) for years without fail. For PE, only over 1 year old, still using same stock car batt (RAMCAR?)...

It just strike me or maybe I've forgotten, PE 2011 stock battery is it MF or wet? Cialat, I have to check my car batt later....I can't remember, I know I've checked b4 but cannot remember if its wet or dry....dry I presumed for now.

If you buy from a known car workshop outside, normally they WILL keep a record aka serial no. of battery they sold you. So even if you lost your card, the workshop will be able to trace the number for you. I got mine from my workshop, warranty card never keep, ALWAYS can claim warranty cos they have records.

Only 2 identified problem, the battery or the charger. Since battery dried off earlier, probably the batt. Outside mechanic should be able to check using voltmeter whether the amp and voltage coming from charger is sufficient or not. If ok, usually just change the batt, should take no more than 15 minutes actually. Go CoSE pulak, a few days...

Then no choice liao since no warranty. Just change the battery.

ALSO based on your situation, do change to MF battery aka dry battery. A bit more costly and slightly shorter life BUT it's much more convenient for you as it did for my wife who also know nuts abt car. Even myself also used dry battery coz I sort of too lazy to check battery water to VALIDATE if SC check it or not. And honestly you would not have notice the shorter life, coz even wet battery sometimes also died fast depending on luck.

As for brands, I'm using Panalite (or something that started with Pana.....). Good battery with some good review on its quality and lasting from other users. So far used for 2-3 years liao...still running on both of my other cars.

Century, GP, etc all also same same life wan.....

This is beyond standard DIY. Should be checked by mechanic.

Not just that, our H-Line has better sound insulation, brake pump meant for 1.6cc car and leather seat that ACTUALLY makes a noticeable difference in driving comfort vs other line.

For Preve, since you have a Myvi 1.5 SE, live with it for now until Preve release SE edition or mid-life facelift. For now there's still a LOT of unsolved Preve issues. Also no leather seat yet for Preve and the current seat material no so nice and not water repellent.

On side note : I also hati goyang goyang on preve, but the fact is currently my PE H-Line totally got NO issue (keeping finger crossed yet) as all the previous issue like noise from back, tik tik noise, windows/door produce sound when going thru bump sort of magically disappear after a couple of months. Its a problem free ride for now...for last 10K, going to SC nothing to fix, just service only.....above my expectation of Proton impression as I'm prepared to go SC fix problem every 5k service when I bought the car. So I make it a POINT to only BUY proton after its mid life face lift....

No lar, PE still cannot match FD1.8 in most way except handling part. I have a 08' fd 1.8 as well and I'm driving it to work today.

I like PE leather seat better although its synthetic rather than than the tuala mandi material of FD. Player is MUCH better than the celup built in CD only in my FD 1.8. I keep pressing on the steering to change tracks only to realise gua punya Civic tarak remote button. Drive comfort and suspension, IMO, the double wishbone still held an advantage. Insulation of FD is not very good but honestly still better than PE. Engine no need say, FD is superb tho at 1.8 underpower a bit at low end but MUCH better than PE low end without mod.

FC actually almost same. Size matters, Civic legroom especially at the rear is HUGE....very comfortable with big seats. I feel handling almost the same but PE is zippier by a bit...so Proton scored there although by minor bit. High speed drive, Civic still truimph by its stability and comfort although PE not that bad there minus the engine noise.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Aug 28 2012, 06:35 PM

Just switched to Havoline 10W40 semi rated SN. Changed air filter at 10K mileage coz too dirty liao. I figured I will continue 10K service interval for air filter, less than 20 bucks anyway.

For now, engine vibration seems to be stronger than before, have to drive more later to see if it will lessen a bit. Servicing outside at 25K mileage and will go back to SC for 30K mileage, since manual only kasi chop at 10K service interval. Still wondering if really got problem with IAFM or whatever later, warranty will be void or not....

Been reading up a bit on the latest engine oil updates around the world.

Mmmmm...it seems my info is a bit dated liao...for the last couple of years, it seems the newest engine and the latest rated FS lube can go further mileage.

I guess I will be extending FS mileage from 5-7K to 7-10K instead.

However I'm still have doubt on Campro tech....is it the latest tech with the most efficient running, etc. I most probably will do it to the latest Hondas, Toyotas, VW, etc but campro efficiency, I'll stick with 7-8K for FS change if I ever use FS for my PE.

Another point that still have some cloud in doubts will be how long a lube can stay in engine. 6 months or 12 months. I know addictives don't wear out if not in use but eo oxidization will still happen...

Also we know FS might last but what the the stock fuel filter. Its meant for 5K, can it stand for 10K. Once clogged which is very likely due to our darn dusty, very hot and humid environment, bypass will be activated meaning no filteration for engine oil....can the FS hold the massive contaminant after that....

This post has been edited by Cavino: Sep 3 2012, 07:32 PM

FS

I don't have the service manual with me so cannot confirm but usually the standard maintenance schedule is based on NORMAL driving condition. About 99% of us fulfilled at least one of the conditions for SEVERE driving category, just the country's temperature alone would push our cars into this SEVERE category.

Usually SEVERE category has most of its components service interval reduced by 30% or half. ATF is one of the most overlook lube that need to be change. According to the CHIEF MECHANIC at SPOON, he even asked to CHANGE ATF at every service, more so than engine oil coz unlike ENGINE OIL that has a stock cooling system, ATF has no cooling system unless modded otherwise. The more the heat, the faster a lube is render ineffective.

Actually most manual also listed gear oil at 40K, so its actually up to you as 40K is the max limit a lube can tahan.

Question is do you want to wait till max where more wear will happen on your gearbox or change the fluid before any additional wear happen (wear will happen but keeping the fluid clean and efficient will drastically reduce wear rate)?

Correct me if I'm wrong but the book also listed engine oil change at 10K service interval without mentioning only FS apply, so can we use mineral for 10K....go figure.

While other components, you can follow its intended schedule, lube or any oil used are can have a variable period. Lube can last 10K, or in a lot of cases, lost effectiveness causing drag at around 8K also...so should we change before it happen like at 7K instead of 10K, its up to us depending on your usage, variable wear rate and lube conditions.

What gasket it that? Is it washer or something else?

Coolant already change at 20K and should last for 20K interval. Just spend RM30 to get a bottle of proton coolant from SC and used it to refill at 25K last week.

Oh...we call it a washer in Honda SC.

Mm....I just asked my mechanic to use any washer of the same size for my 25K service....don't know will leak or not...

This post has been edited by Cavino: Sep 4 2012, 02:32 PM

ATF helps I guess, never really bother with this mod coz I change gear oil every 20K, regardless of manual and warranty definite void if install this now.

I've just used Havoline 10W40 semi with the latest SN rated API converting from Petronas Semi. I also change air filter at same time (10K service interval for that coz by 10K, dirty liao).

So not sure the noticeable vibration coz by changing new air filter or EO. Initially have slight lose of high end power, seems slower in acceleration to reach 110km/h, also noisier just like when I just change LCP.

Anyway after 300 km of driving since then, as of today, engine vibration seems to subside greatly, acceleration somewhow smoothen and engine noise reduced. Had absolutely no idea why it happen, maybe sudden change of a better SN rated lube and new airfilter causing ECU to take some time to familiarize with new changes...(theory only)...will monitor another 200-500km as it seems to be improving daily for now

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Added on September 6, 2012, 12:40 pmOil filter when clog, will usually activate bypass mode, meaning no more filteration, all contaminants that flow thru it will go directly to your engine, valve, whatever small holes they could clog themselves in. So it won't tear up no matter how u use it.

Notice you're having Blitz Racing Oil there as well. A note when using Racing Oil, they put the word there for a reason. Racing oil has higher level of anti-wear protection meant for racing than street lube. It comes with ZDDP that will greatly mess up your catalytic convertor....if you don't have it anymore (modded out), then it will poison the air greatly vs normal street lube. Performance addictives definitely more than street lube.

A key note is it also has MUCH LESSER detergent, meaning it will not clean your engine very well and addictives will run out sooner than usual. It will result in dirtier engine and oil way those valves, tiny pathway running the risk of getting clog in long term. So I would not recommend using a racing oil for long term.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Sep 6 2012, 12:40 PM

Bro, as mentioned by others, Petron = Esso source, so unless you never use Esso before, its weird that you feel weird.

Err...I'm using Shell actually, company card....but prefered Esso. Shell although more FC than esso, actually still ok wan..honestly, don't feel much different from Esso except seems to have more FC per tank vs esso. Why Shell somemore hype it's RON95 save petrol wan ???

Just read up abit on Cusco, you guys used the standard FS wan isn't, not the low friction ones?

Is it true even the standard FS has part PAO in it? Is it written on the can?

Bulk List For Cusco Oil Low Friction Formula 5W-40
http://www.cusco.co.jp/en/whats_new/cusco_engine_oil.html

PRICE: TBD, tentatively at RM150. But the dealer said due to stock limitation it might rise.
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Heart darn itchy....I just changed to Havoline semi recently. This PAO blend seems to be the real deal.....but without consistent stock supply....I'm not keen of keep changing engine oil type. Once you taste the good stuff, going back to semi even if its Havoline will feel no more ooomph. I figure I'll continue staying with Havoline Semi for the time being coz this lube will probably never run out of stock and garanteed original.