lols have u seen before diesel engine design? have u seen diesel TB?

FYI diesel intake and exhaust is on the same side and the TB is totally different

Trust me she did not take care at all.... maybe the BF or the mech take care of her wallet and the rest Guys will do its best....

hahahaha after tasting my 1.3 turbo syiok edi hah....

Whoah.... what happened?

hahahahahahaha lolololols

Rain X or any chemical would not do such damages. If the chemical would react on glass, long time the person who applied already dead.
This glass break prolly sudden temperature changes.

GSR eventually is quite nice to play but however the parts are getting harder to get so the best option is BOT stock 4G92 or 4G15 engine.
price of BOT depends on the material.

Budget BOT where boost on stock internals 0.7 bar max estimated 180~200WHP. Price where about RM5k with Megasquirt standalone ECU.

Performance BOT where you will replace the conrod, piston and bearings with BOT estimated power is 250~300WHP boost on 1.5 bar. Price is about RM8~12k

The positive side of BOT is;

1. You still maintaining stock engine where the parts remains the same.
2. Everything is new and the engine condition previously maintained by your own so you know better.
3. In the future u still can make back the car into NA and sell BOT stuff.... GSR cant do that....

This post has been edited by mxsteven: May 27 2013, 12:09 PM

there is no such gimmicks.

If proper tune you wont have downside,

With turbo it increases efficiency where you have better fuel efficiency and more power. Standalone ecu is the best since now Megasquirt 2 is so cheap you can buy it online for below 500USD.

Turbo header custom should be about RM1.5k-2k and the rest just buy jasma turbo is ok... cheap and reliable and parts also cheap...

better prepare 6k so u can have more allowance.

after u use then u will know why it is rm550

there might be a few place leak, try to check the door seal. The hole u need to close it and seal with something like sound proof material, dont use silicone as it have sodium where it create reaction and will rust from inside out. also check firewall area....

I guarantee in a month it will crack.... because i have bought it.

min 0.4-0.5 bar, so far there is no wastegate at 0.3 bar unless u invest on selenoid gate where it cost rm2k ++ stock internal able t take it up to 0.9 bar but safe boost is below 0.7 where u can boost as u like it.

you can get a proper ones at ACE hardware

sunway pyramid, IOI, Mid Valley, Summit, Pelangi Mall, QueensBay Mall, AEON STATION 18 and more

use RHF4 if you need fast spool but TD0413G is fun and pack with ommpphh... for stroker kit system i would suggest to stay off BOT because it is stroke to the max and it would be very fragile when BOT. FYI 1.3cc after BOT it just feels so good. Stay off stroking. It is not worth to do.

RHF4 have lesser output power but it will assist low end very well, the boost will end at 5k RPM. It is a very safe turbine for your car furthermore the turbo is cheap now. RM200-RM350 can get easily. Highway it would be fun... trust me.

Remember always cool the turbo using oil and water, some workshop just fit oil cooling and they say dun need water. dont listen to them.
Most of the turbo had Oil cooling and water cooling path for better efficiency.

For BOT try to use standalone ECU, piggy is good to play around but for long term i would rather go for standalone for a stable and a safer ride.

rust is normal, u pay peanuts u get monkeys... simple.
here is a good cast header

http://kinugawa.co.nz/product/mitsubishi-4...o-manifold-t25/

then pay and custom a good header. it cost below 2k for a great header from tonka

adjustable abs must use their spring because the size is different. If you want lowered and feel like stock there is a lot of spring out there.
Adjustable which had comfort and handling will compromise both world does comes with a price.