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 LYN Proton Wira Club (LYN-PWC) V-XXVIII, Wira 4ever.....

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k3v_84
post Aug 2 2012, 04:06 PM

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Btw, anyone have knowledge of airflow sensor? As currently I can't find a matching airflow sensor for my car, so currently I unplug the socket(means currently not running on that sensor) coz if I use the sensor, my rpm drop until engine stall when air-cond on... I wanna know if there's any consequences other than fc up? Will it damage engine, ecu, or gb?
carcraze66
post Aug 2 2012, 05:39 PM

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QUOTE(cute_boboi @ Aug 2 2012, 12:43 PM)
Not full comparison, but just for you to get some idea:

My uncle perdana, previously change to non-ori drive-shaft. After ~2 years, the botak-ball comes out from the socket. Front tyre+rim hit the fender. Car undercarriage scrape the road. Lucky not going fast, just turning a corner within housing area. Called me for backup  sweat.gif

Towed to Proton Edar workshop, mechanic find 2nd hand but original mitsu/proton to replace.

Safe or not, depends on individual preference.
*
walaweh! so scary ar...i also scared already...cause my wira driver side front wheel making alot alot of weird sound...haha...didnt bother it first cause fix too many things adi...

but then i would like to ask what is the signs of drive shaft kong ar? other than turning time got "kok kok kok" sound?

cause my wheel going to uneven road will get "klok klok klok" sound..darn annoying..haha
cute_boboi
post Aug 2 2012, 06:29 PM

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QUOTE(carcraze66 @ Aug 2 2012, 05:39 PM)
walaweh! so scary ar...i also scared already...cause my wira driver side front wheel making alot alot of weird sound...haha...didnt bother it first cause fix too many things adi...

but then i would like to ask what is the signs of drive shaft kong ar? other than turning time got "kok kok kok" sound?

cause my wheel going to uneven road will get "klok klok klok" sound..darn annoying..haha
*
On slow speed <30km/h, is not scary. The wheel does not come out, it still hang onto it, coz the 4 lug-nuts still holding. Only the lower arm of driveshaft (got upper and lower) is broken. The tyre is just like negative camber, but like -30.0 kind. Not -0.5 or -1 tongue.gif
The tyre will then hit the upper and rear (since moving forward) of the fender area.
Therefore, the car can't move anymore.

But try imagine if doing >60km/h. Or 110km/h. Or higher ohmy.gif

For my wira, there is very minor kluk kluk kluk sometimes when doing slow and sharp angle corner. Not sure also, coz my mechanic says is alright. I suggest send to some trusty mechanic, or ask 2-3 workshop on their opinions to be safe.

samfisher
post Aug 3 2012, 09:48 AM

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QUOTE(cute_boboi @ Aug 2 2012, 02:49 PM)
Depends on individual preference. A car moving >60km/h is dangerous. To me, I won't gamble my life for those few hundred ringgit. Or even 1-2k. I'll skimp on car-cosmetic, skirting, tiang-gol, or ICE or some other stuff, but not the basic stuff like tyres, brakes, suspensions, arms, engine, g/b, etc.

Maybe try check few chop-shops if got mitsu parts ?
*
totally agreed with you...will try to look out at chop shop this weekend...roughly how much does it cost?...is it depends on condition and years of usage?....for my car, any specific model can be use?... hmm.gif
cute_boboi
post Aug 3 2012, 10:58 AM

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QUOTE(samfisher @ Aug 3 2012, 09:48 AM)
totally agreed with you...will try to look out at chop shop this weekend...roughly how much does it cost?...is it depends on condition and years of usage?....for my car, any specific model can be use?...  hmm.gif
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Mine never chg drive-shaft before. But for 2nd hand ori/chop-shop, based on new pricing rm600 each, i'll put my own expectation at rm300 each. Maybe can get about rm200 or less each.
Too old wear & tear on 2nd hand oso... i may not like it also.

GKWong
post Aug 3 2012, 11:51 AM

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I just replaced my MAP sensor on my own last week. Seems now FC is better now. Now only problem is need to fix engine overheating issue. Waterpump and thermostat I already replaced, but it seems like the radiator is a bit clog and causing overheating at high load or high rpm. I cant find a place to open up the radiator to clean for me.... maybe I will replace a whole new radiator...
TSmxsteven
post Aug 3 2012, 11:57 AM

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QUOTE(GKWong @ Aug 3 2012, 11:51 AM)
I just replaced my MAP sensor on my own last week. Seems now FC is better now. Now only problem is need to fix engine overheating issue. Waterpump and thermostat I already replaced, but it seems like the radiator is a bit clog and causing overheating at high load or high rpm. I cant find a place to open up the radiator to clean for me.... maybe I will replace a whole new radiator...
*
Can you share the reason of replacing the map sensor?

Thanks
GKWong
post Aug 3 2012, 02:16 PM

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QUOTE(mxsteven @ Aug 3 2012, 11:57 AM)
Can you share the reason of replacing the map sensor?

Thanks
*
seems like the value incorrect and causing A/F too lean hence knocking. Right now issue solved. Because previously I already slowly diagnosed and finding the culprit of the knocking such as petrol filter, fuel pump and etc
cute_boboi
post Aug 3 2012, 03:34 PM

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QUOTE(GKWong @ Aug 3 2012, 11:51 AM)
I just replaced my MAP sensor on my own last week. Seems now FC is better now. Now only problem is need to fix engine overheating issue. Waterpump and thermostat I already replaced, but it seems like the radiator is a bit clog and causing overheating at high load or high rpm. I cant find a place to open up the radiator to clean for me.... maybe I will replace a whole new radiator...
*
I send mine (first time) to clean radiator after so many years. I sent to a radiator only workshop. Labour cost about RM40-60 range (forgot), excluding any parts / coolant. Take about 2 hours.

He will dismantle and take out the radiator + upper & lower tubes + check thermostat.
Radiator will slowly dismantle the top and bottom plastic.
Then will flush/scrub slowly with some basic tools + slow running water. I can see all the teh-tarik come out.
Normally will replace the o-ring rubber for the top radiator plastic cover.
Then assemble back, and put some gel/grease/glue (don't know what it is) at some areas.

After that install back, fill with water & coolant. Check if leak or not.
Then start engine and monitor for like 30 minutes with some high rev every now and then. Check again for leak or any issue.


Otherwise, you can try DIY. To me is risky to dismantle everything myself.

Anyway after that, I don't notice any changes at all on engine running, temperature, etc. It's just a cleaning job to me, since I notice the radiator water is murky with rust.

TSmxsteven
post Aug 3 2012, 10:36 PM

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QUOTE(GKWong @ Aug 3 2012, 02:16 PM)
seems like the value incorrect and causing A/F too lean hence knocking. Right now issue solved. Because previously I already slowly diagnosed and finding the culprit of the knocking such as petrol filter, fuel pump and etc
*
yup thats the symptom but its rare....
GKWong
post Aug 3 2012, 11:16 PM

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QUOTE(cute_boboi @ Aug 3 2012, 03:34 PM)
I send mine (first time) to clean radiator after so many years. I sent to a radiator only workshop. Labour cost about RM40-60 range (forgot), excluding any parts / coolant. Take about 2 hours.

He will dismantle and take out the radiator + upper & lower tubes + check thermostat.
Radiator will slowly dismantle the top and bottom plastic.
Then will flush/scrub slowly with some basic tools + slow running water. I can see all the teh-tarik come out.
Normally will replace the o-ring rubber for the top radiator plastic cover.
Then assemble back, and put some gel/grease/glue (don't know what it is) at some areas.

After that install back, fill with water & coolant. Check if leak or not.
Then start engine and monitor for like 30 minutes with some high rev every now and then. Check again for leak or any issue.
Otherwise, you can try DIY. To me is risky to dismantle everything myself.

Anyway after that, I don't notice any changes at all on engine running, temperature, etc. It's just a cleaning job to me, since I notice the radiator water is murky with rust.
*
just now managed to find a place to clean my clogged radiator. Rm18 only. Haha! And 3 bottles of coolant at rm36. Problem fixed now. So happy can fully unleash my car power without overheating anymore :-D
Str33tBoY
post Aug 5 2012, 09:09 AM

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bro...
how much u replace the map sensor...?
coz my FC gone quite high adi...
around Rm65 for 300km city drive...
heavy footed...
might thing to change also...
choonyink
post Aug 5 2012, 04:48 PM

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Hi guys,

recently looking for a second hand Wira 1.5 or 1.6 auto only (saloon and aeroback also can).
Can share some experience about this car? Like engine, gearbox, suspension and all.
Normally Wira's engine and gearbox last how long? 200k KM?

This post has been edited by choonyink: Aug 5 2012, 04:53 PM
IamRacist
post Aug 5 2012, 06:32 PM

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QUOTE(choonyink @ Aug 5 2012, 04:48 PM)
Hi guys,

recently looking for a second hand Wira 1.5 or 1.6 auto only (saloon and aeroback also can).
Can share some experience about this car? Like engine, gearbox, suspension and all.
Normally Wira's engine and gearbox last how long? 200k KM?
*
Highly recommend 1.6. Good high compression engine, can be powerful once tuned correctly. However, gearbox for auto 4speed seems to be fragile, it's a popular case, but also depends on the way owners treat the gearbox. Can't tell you about the suspension as mine is screwed up.
The engine for mine 1.6, is already more than 200k KM still running great. Gear box already spoiled when I bought the car as 2nd hand but changed to recond and is much better.
choonyink
post Aug 5 2012, 06:50 PM

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QUOTE(IamRacist @ Aug 5 2012, 06:32 PM)
Highly recommend 1.6. Good high compression engine, can be powerful once tuned correctly. However, gearbox for auto 4speed seems to be fragile, it's a popular case, but also depends on the way owners treat the gearbox. Can't tell you about the suspension as mine is screwed up.
The engine for mine 1.6, is already more than 200k KM still running great. Gear box already spoiled when I bought the car as 2nd hand but changed to recond and is much better.
*
Seems like the 4speed auto is the down side of 1.6 wira blush.gif . How about the 3speed? More reliable?
IamRacist
post Aug 5 2012, 09:57 PM

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QUOTE(choonyink @ Aug 5 2012, 06:50 PM)
Seems like the 4speed auto is the down side of 1.6 wira  blush.gif . How about the 3speed? More reliable?
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3speed is less prone to failure but unfortunately it's function is the downside, will drink a lot of fuel as you will be cruising in very high rpm.
Overall it is better if you go for the 1.6 auto, apart from the gearbox durability, it is better than the 1.5 in every aspect, it's quiet, more powerful and a stronger chassis.
xxboxx
post Aug 5 2012, 11:51 PM

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4 speed auto can last, provided you install gearbox oil cooler.
classic case for Wira and Perdana gearbox
GKWong
post Aug 6 2012, 12:08 AM

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QUOTE(Str33tBoY @ Aug 5 2012, 09:09 AM)
bro...
how much u replace the map sensor...?
coz my FC gone quite high adi...
around Rm65 for 300km city drive...
heavy footed...
might thing to change also...
*
RM140 for the sensor itself. Btw, if your Wira is VDO only got MAP sensor.... and like what mxsteven said, is rare that this sensor causing problem. Better check properly for all other possible reason before get it replace coz is expensive.
nelsonlye
post Aug 6 2012, 10:09 AM

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hmmmm......yummy yummy

drool.gif TD05
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Clean Clean ..
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The power!!!
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cute_boboi
post Aug 6 2012, 11:55 AM

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QUOTE(GKWong @ Aug 3 2012, 11:16 PM)
just now managed to find a place to clean my clogged radiator. Rm18 only. Haha! And 3 bottles of coolant at rm36. Problem fixed now. So happy can fully unleash my car power without overheating anymore :-D
*
Got dismantle out ? or just open the bottom plug to let it out, then wash, plug back and refill only ?


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