anyone use Lubegard for their Auto Transmission here?

apparently this bugger really works!
I thought it is just another additive that might help a little but apprently not.

My friend have 2001 n16 sentra and the auto transmission has this massive lag(got to wait more than a minute) to engaged 'D'(gear lever in 'D' but gear wont engaged) in the morning and whenever the car already switched off for more than few hours.

so the other day with Iszo did an ATF flush and replace the ATF filter. After all that, the massive lag still there! We poured in Lubegard Platinum(dint get the lubegard red because the shop were out of it) and he sent me back home without knowing whether the lubegard work or not.

The next day, he start the car and engaged 'D' and it works! there is no more lag and the gear just engaged flawlessly... im impressed but still skeptical
wondering whether the ATF flush and ATF filter replacement might do the job but take time.

anyway, i found out my uncle 1996 serena also having this masive gear lag(same like my friend's sentra). So we poured in Lubegard into it without changing the ATF and now... the gear engaged 'D' without any lag

damn! this lubegard is good

if u guys thinking im doing advertisement, sorry im not selling it nor related to anyone selling it.
please find out yourself where to get it. im just spreading what is good here.

This post has been edited by ulet: Jul 14 2012, 07:36 PM

yea...my fren use the lubeguard for his manual gearbox...it works too...

i use lubegard platinum (rm98 lol) along with Q8 semi synthetic ATF for my proton iswara 3 speed auto, and after the first time, i will definitely stick to it for the rest of the car's lifetime

the total cost is almost rm300 every ATF replacement (20k km or 6 months for my case) and yes, it is very expensive compared to most products out there (eg: the famous toyota ATF only cost ~rm100 or so per application, although many fakes these days so steered away from that too) however imho it is worth the money spent because gear shifting is so god damn smooth and fast.

not to mention, its been the 2nd or 3rd time i've replaced my ATF fluid, and everytime the old ones drain out, it is almost like new (fluid isn't watery or super thick, basically no signs of degradation/oxidization ) which prompts me to consider extending the intervals to 1 year or 40k km. i mean, another claim of lubegard is extending the ATF's lifespan too, right? ROFL

tldr: expensive, however its worth the money spent if you're willing to fork out

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Added on July 14, 2012, 10:13 pm
btw, izso as in the forumer?

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Jul 14 2012, 10:13 PM

May I know what's Lubegard is for?

ATF additive/supplement

Is it suitable for all vehicle? I am using Perdana v6.

i dont think suitable for all vehicle, only suitable for automatic transmission with dextron specifications.

that said, it should be suitable for perdana v6 auto transmission

yup, izso the forummer.

check out this link --> Lubegard problem solving

yup, it is suitable. v6 hold 6 litres of ATF so you need roughly 230ml of it. lubegard red is good already.

it is suitable for all except Except Ford Type F ATF and CVT applications.

This post has been edited by ulet: Jul 15 2012, 11:42 AM

I would recommend lubegard to most of my customers during workshop days, and still do if they ask for additives for ATF.

The lubegard ATF flush elminates sticky valves in the valve bodies therefore curing the 'lag' problem of your friend's car

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Added on July 15, 2012, 3:53 pmI'm not saying you're using the wrong lubegard for your tranny, but you can have a better choice by taking the lubagard atf additive in the black bottle which is made specially for japanese and korean cars. Platinum additive also works as converting atf specifications making it close to universal.Use the black one, equally as good for your iswara and saves you 10-20bux as well

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Added on July 15, 2012, 3:54 pmif im not mistaken they have one specially for cvt as well

This post has been edited by ThunderGod_Cid: Jul 15 2012, 03:54 PM

hmm the workshop i goto only have the red ATF protect and platinum (and the yellow gear oil which i assume for MT's), don't have the black one

what's the major differences anyway?
i thought platinum would be the "be all end all" solution?

ulet, woi.. don't drag me into this. But since you did I'm going to comment..

I'm not a supporter of additives.

Guys - this guys transmission had a complete drain, ATF filter change and filled up with fresh oil. Initially the GB still had the delay problem, it only resolved itself the next day.

Usually a complete drain and ATF filter change fixes most of these GB problems la. And the fact that he used Castrol Dexron III 4L (meaning reputable brand and oil) makes it even better. I mean, it might just have been the oil that solved the problem.

I have my reservations regarding additives.

Also, regarding your uncles car that had some problems and you just adding the additive in, has it ever occurred to you that it might just be the additive changing the viscosity of the oil or something? I know Bluechem's engine oil cleaner does exactly that. It temporarily 'revives' dead engine oil to be more viscous allowing you to flush the oil more easily. In fact they even claim that you can even prolong the engine oil change for about 50km to 100km with the engine cleaner mixed into your oil. But ultimately it's temporary.

I'm thinking it's possibly the same in this particular situation. But I'm just guessing.

i dint drag u in lah, i just said u did the changing atf and filter of the car.

maybe it does what u said to my uncle's car but they did claim lubegard will solve gear 'morning sickness' and they did that. hard to believe when my uncle's keep changing with good atf(not synthetic) every 20k and he already have this 'morning sickness' feeling since 2-3 years ago.
he poured in half bottle lubegard red and the next day no more 'morning sickness'.

i dont recommend it on new car, only car got similar problem with what i said.

i agree with your pointers.

although personally, im on the fence with this. i believe it if it works, disbelieve if it doesn't sorta deal.
and since it works for me, i guess you can call me a believer for lubegard, not so much for other products of the same function i suppose until it is proven to me otherwise

reason being coming from an engine oil point of view, base oil itself won't last as long as what reputable brand/expensive engine oil can. the additives is what prolong the oil's life, prevent it from degradation from carbon/other waste deposits from combustion, and of course enhances its functionality be it less friction, or even better and/or consistent oil viscosity etc

in contrast to ATF additives/oil in line to what i've said earlier, i am a believer of liqui moly and torco semi synthetic oils. the difference is just so huge compared to a "reputable brand" mineral oil (or even semi- synthetics)such as shell, hi-rev and so on.
Granted, those oil are so much cheaper, imo it is a good example of what you pay is what you get

Well, if your uncle has been using the correct oil and is always filling at optimum levels, then I'd be surprised. But if he was always overfilling or underfilling without realising it then he'd slowly kill the gearbox hence the problems now. Lubeguard *probably* changed the viscosity level (I use this assumption very loosely) to cater for the higher wear and tear.

In my Myvi's case, I cooked the gearbox because I ran about 20km+ without any oil in it because the hose had cracked and leaked all my oil out. So I probably do have damage inside the gearbox hence my issues. Lubeguard may or may not fix my problem but I'm not willing to spend close to RM100 to find out. Good fully synthetic oil like those from Rockoil or Pennzoil seems to do the trick for me except the gear changes aren't as smooth as they used to be.

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Added on July 16, 2012, 8:17 pmYou are right and wrong at the same time.

The additives determine the viscosity, the amount of detergents, anti-acidity additives, heat suppressors and a few other small little things yes.. preventing it from degradation no.

There are a few grades of base oil, most engine oil brands these days use group 3 base oil which is the lowest quality that can be used for engine oils. Grade 4 and 5 are ester based oils and they are way superior in lifespan and heat transfer etc. Expensive oils like Motul (the ester based range) and Ravenol (I don't know the makeup of Torco and Liquimoly) use group 4 or 5 base oils hence their price.

It's kinda like comparing a car tinted with cheap tinting. It'll protect your interior from the UV and some IR. But put it side by side with Vkool Elite and it's a completely different thing although they both do the same thing. In most cases too Vkool Elite will outlast the el-cheapo tint because of the quality materials it's made from.

So you're right about you get what you pay for.

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Added on July 16, 2012, 8:20 pmOh and lastly - Torco is not API certified. 'Exceeding API certifications' and compliance to the certification requirements is not the same thing.

I wouldn't use an oil that hasn't been tested and certified otherwise they can claim the whole sky and earth, and no one would be the wiser.

This post has been edited by izso: Jul 16 2012, 08:21 PM

perhaps my wording on "degradation prevention" is of exaggeration. however one thing that is certain is that with the additives, engine oil degradation is slowed down. would that be more acceptable then?


btw this link could give some insight on why a lot of "boutique brand" engine oils are not API certified: http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible_amsoilFAQ.html
as compared to almost all mainstreamed engine oils that are.

and on the same page, if one decides to take the leap of faith, you can immediately discover that despite being API certified, the performance of mainstream engine oil is just sub par compared to the more performing (albeit more expensive) un-certified non mainstream engine oil

info on groups:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil
(so yeah group 4 = PAO, 5 are anything that arent covered in 1-4 and ester are the popular base stock for 5)

so from torco's specs (well they aren't certified, so if you don't believe their claims that is fine lol):

SR-1
http://www.torcousa.com/technology/TDS_SR-1%20RacingOil.pdf
group 3
http://www.torcousa.com/technology/TDS_SR-1%20MotorOil.pdf
didnt seem to specify

http://www.torcousa.com/technology/SR-5.pdf
group 4/5 so should be ester based.

the one i used (TR-5, only used/using for the sentra, and my own car once during the track day lol):
http://www.torcousa.com/technology/TR-1.pdf
unspecified, however with

should be group 3 based

still, a bit surprised you used tinting as an example.
merely because our scenario here is exactly like tints, except engine oil has certification bodies, while tints does not. can anyone certify whatever v-kool is claiming? what about other brands?

that's kinda the case with torco (or even liqui moly) is suppose

that is a pure mechanical failure by all means

personally, i dont think lubegard is magic in a bottle thats able to fix mechanical failure. at best it only lessens its affects.

im using it more towards PREVENTION of mechanical failures, and more towards the smoothness and responsiveness of gear shifts be it in the wee morning cold starts, or midnight drives or even very hot afternoon.

Well hey.. it's your money, your car, your choice and if there is one... your problem. I choose not to use unverifiable oils.

Amsoil makes very good oils and is API certified. Redline is certified. Motul is certified. Lucas is certified. Mainstream crap? Really? Are you going to debate this with me?

Vkool does have certification to prove its claims btw.

But ultimately like I said - your money, your choice, your problem.

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Added on July 17, 2012, 7:59 pmSigh.

Your choice and your money, but I have to point out companies like Mobil, Amsoil, etc didn't spend millions on R&D to be outsmarted by a <RM100 bottle of additives.

You want prevention? Change your oils more frequently and always change the filter. Don't overcook the gearbox either by going on track. That's prevention of mechanical failures, not adding some additive that may have some sort of chemical reaction with whatever fluids in your gearbox at god-knows what temperature at that point of time leaving behind something nasty.

Anyway, how long have you been using additives? 5 to 7 years down the road please do give me an update on how your gearbox is doing. My GB has been running on Proton SPIII and Mitsubishi Diaqueen SPIII for 8 years now and it's still going strong.

This post has been edited by izso: Jul 17 2012, 07:59 PM

i am pretty sure when i (or we) am talking about mainstream, i am referring towards shell/castrol/petronas etc.

the brands like amsoil/redline/motul/lucas you have mentioned are all considered boutique/non-mainstream brand, in which their price clearly reflects btw

And if you've bothered checking out my links earlier (carbibles.com btw, or you can even look up bobistheoilguy forums) you will see that not all amsoil products, especially their top of the line/flagship are API certified, and they have even put out fake certifications

slight note of bobistheoilguy btw: they have many "science/chemist" guys (lol!) that does UOA and results/feedback from torco has been pretty good mind you. else i wouldn't bother pouring something un certified with similar/same concerns as you are having

i mainly use liqui moly and only used torco for my car for that one time track day OCI. if you didn't know, liqui moly is API SL / ACEA certified. so isn't that good enough? or what other kinda certification you're looking at?

atm i am considering changing to liqui moly for the nissan sentra because my mother is the main driver of it and she doesn't high rev/drive fast much, which kinda make torco pointless to be honest. might as well have the extra protection/engine quietness that liqui moly provides.

for my own info's sake though, what kinda certification v kool has? the one they give you when you buy their elite/high end product? or the one from jpj? please elaborate


and lol surprised to see you mentioning track
however my reasons or even justifications as you may call it stands, think logically: why are we buying better engine oil? is it because it offers better protection and provides a smoother engine?

it's pretty much the same deal with lubegard.
the exact same things you said can also be applied to engine oil, why waste money on better engine oil for prevention? why not just change your oil at tighter interval? (4k km? 3k? or even 2k km? from my experience, shell lasts 2.5-4k km) That guarantees engine smoothness and cleanliness too. no point to buy more expensive oils right?

its just the same concept/logic. time to time i'll rev my car to red line just for the sheer fun/exhilaration of it, i don't think having more frequent OCI (be it engine oil/gear oil) would help much. and as i mentioned on my previous post, the gear engagement of my gearbox with and without lubegard is pretty obvious. it could be because of my very old gear box, or its because of my driving style having higher revs on gear shifts, i wouldn't know. however the differences is there, and i'd like to keep it.

hell, even lubegard's own statement claims a 50% increase in gear response which is 0.4 sec to 0.2 sec (lol minor almost unnoticeable difference, but it IS 50% LOL!) which may or may not be true, however for my case, it is even bigger difference especially on cold start putting my very first D or R engage after engine crank.

=edit=
and yes, while i've only been a lubegard user for maybe 1-2 years, definitely not going strong like your 8 years record. 1-2 years without any gearbox issue on my old 3 speed auto proton tranny thats been to track day once downshifting/1-2 speed gear limitation at 5-7k rpm... can consider *a bit* credible, right?

of course, like you said, at the end of the day, my money, my choice. and that's that la.
however we always can have healthy debates (hopefully not arguments) for knowledge sharing right?

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Jul 17 2012, 08:37 PM

Are we arguing? No ah. If arguing I'd be calling you names. LOL

btw izso, i dont think my uncle got skip service... he owned a Shell petrol station. his lube technically are free!!
just serena is too old, 1996. 16 years old car.

good la then, always welcome a healthy debate/discussion

Izso. what would be your views on engine flush and additives that's TUV, VAG and RoHS certified?

For engine oil manufacturers, sky is the limit if they do not take into consideration on the cost of adding their oils with additives.

not sure how VKool ended up being discussed here

Since you brought this up, FYI... JPJ "NEVER" certified any brand of tint. I know this because recently i had issue with my car tint during JPJ road block. Not going to say the brand name (i can only say, branded one). I went to 2 different JPJ office and both side told me the same thing... JPJ NEVER certified any brand of tint...

the "KEY" word here.... is "COMPLIANCE”…. And not “CERTIFIED”

This post has been edited by rocketeer_ace: Jul 18 2012, 02:39 PM

COMPLIANCE

opsss.... thanks for correcting me

i believe izso doesnt mean the 1 certified/compliance by jpj

and i'm giving him the benefit of the doubt and presuming that he is not referring to JPJ hence requested that he clarify/elaborate that to us

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Jul 18 2012, 05:06 PM

xpe. where can i get this lubegard in klang valley? i wanna try it out on my wira also. I didnt flush but same things delay in shift gear when cold.

personally, i recommend to flush and/or replace tranny filter FIRST.

if problem still persist, THEN opt to try out lubegard
then you'll know for sure if it really works or not

i just need to buy lubegard. done flushing and filter 2x same case le

lol you mentioned you didnt flush hence my recommendation. what about gear box filter though? age of car/tranny?

that said however, if you've flushed 2x in the past and still disappointed in your tranny, then yeah by all means go for it.
for my case i buy/apply lubegard at the workshop near my house, at taman intan baiduri/selayang jaya (near FRIM forest reserve), shop name is torque legend (lol)
googlemap: https://maps.google.com/maps?q=Torque+Legen...ia&z=16&iwloc=A

ehh. ops sry my bad typo. hmm selayang. abit far. haha. prefer klang valley. Anyone know where to get it in Klang Valley?

This post has been edited by KIntos: Jul 18 2012, 06:17 PM

i suggest u look for 'radenumar'. bought kool-it from him before. cod at bukit jalil lrt.
quite a nice chap i say. try enquire from him.

(How the hell do you multiquote in LY?)

Engine flushes that can actually obtain TUV certification must have some sort of quality to their products because TUV is way more stringent than even API and the European certification (forgot what their called). Personally right now I'm still testing Bluechem's engine oil flush, it's TUV certified and so far so good. I've also used CRC engine flush and that's been serving me well for years too.

I personally have no issues with flushes as long as it's not alcohol based. It's additives that annoy me.

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Added on July 18, 2012, 7:44 pmDude, I'm not new to the car industry. There's no such thing as "JPJ certified" as you have pointed out.

I was talking about Vkool Elite's claims to be 99% UV blocking, 99% IR blocking, etc. They claim the world and they have the certification (tests by reputable companies) to prove their claims.

This post has been edited by izso: Jul 18 2012, 07:44 PM

hmm. his thread not active since 2011

i bought from him 2 months ago.
i straight call his HP.

I thought Amsoil is producing good and reliable engine oil, never know they did put up fake certificatates. Currently am using Signature-series, would wonder anyone has any review regarding this? Might thinking to change to Liqui Moly on next change..

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Added on July 19, 2012, 11:26 amOh ya, by the way, currently driving a swift, could any sifus recommend me ATF oil and addictive for my auto tranny? Any recommended seller? Much appreciate your info

This post has been edited by sengasdf: Jul 19 2012, 11:26 AM

never said they produced bad oils. but yea, marketing decisions/issues, and/or cost saving etc. it happens to even the highest profile companies/corporations and i guess amsoil isn't excluded.

for ATF fluid, i would recommend your manufacturer's OEM, and/or main stream semi/full synthetic ATF fluid, and if you're not satisfied enough, then can try out lubegard

of course, do proper flushing and/or even replacement of auto tranny filter (usually also involve gasket replacement too, at least for my auto tranny) for accurate/proper results especially for comparisons with/without lubegard

=edit=
aiks edit on typo (didn't removed)

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Jul 19 2012, 12:23 PM

I have read quite a lot of review regarding their (top line?) Signature-series engine oil, that is why I go for this.

And I have sent an email to Amsoil regarding compatibility on Liqui Moly Ceratec that I bought from Elton couple weeks back, they replied that it is not recommended to mix their oil with ceratec, Was thinking to change to other brand or not...

I would like to try Lubegard, Lubegard ATF oil + additive? Which one is recommended?

Flushing and replace filter every time I change ATF oil? how often do you perform oil change on your auto tranny?

if amsoil replied recommending against mixing their oil with ceratec, perhaps its best to follow.

can consider other engine oil that is compatible (can confirm via email like you've did, or maybe go with liqui moly as ceratec AFAIK has no compatibility issues with their own engine oil)

personally id recommend sticking to OEM/main stream semi/full synthetic ATF fluids, then add in lubegard additives to protect/enhance the original ATF fluid, so you won't stray too far from manufacturer's specifications as components within ATF tranny are quite sensitive. repairs if shit goes wrong due to wrong application is a hefty price too

personally lubegard atf protection (red one) is a more universal application, while platinum is a better version of it. elton recommended black (HFM, high friction modifier IINM) that's more suitable for japanese/local cars, which is also cheaper than platinum. problem is, can't find anyone that sells black

well for the 7-8+ years or so on ownership of my proton iswara, i believe i've only done flushing maybe 2-3 times? filter replace (including gasket) maybe once, or twice max.

i am only recommending this method because after performing it, you may not even need lubegard which would be nice saving some money, no? if you still feel not satisfied, or just curious on trying out the product, it also serves as a better bench marking as your tranny is confirmed to be clean, and you can understand further on the differences before/after lubegard in a more accurate fashion, then better decide if you still need it or not in the future

as for oil change, every 20k km, or 6 months. however as i have mentioned in this thread, i am seriously considering 40k km or 1 year. because the oil comes out damn clean on previous 1-2 oil changes most likely thanks to lubegard as previously i have never encountered such cases of clean tranny oil lol.

and there was no performance drop (or increase after tranny oil change) prior to tranny oil change at around 20k km, which means the oils and its additives (namely lubegard) maintains its properties and what not well, which should warrant a longer OCI

i dont think torco is widely discussed in bobistheoilguy. very little and vague actually.
it not even popular like liqiumoly, royal purple or redline.
somehow in malaysia, people craze with torco.

LOL, I also sent an email to Liqui Moly to ask about compatibility issue with amsoil + ceratec, and Liqui Moly said it is compatible with Amsoil SSO engine oil Now I don't know who to trust

I guess I shall follow your advise, OEM ATF oil + lubegard addictive. Any recommended seller for me to refer with?

Advertisement effect?

heh both manufacturers playing it safe/wanting to earn money
use your own judgement/decision then lol

and i've posted few posts ago on where i get my lubegard

sengasdf : Wow.. ceramic based additive for the engine? Uh.. dude, think about it. Engine oils have detergents to clean out sludge and contaminants in the engine, they have a shitload of other additives that does different things too but ultimately it's there to provide some heat dissipation and mainly lubrication for the car. Ceramic is a great friction preventer no doubt but it still has a shelf life. Having that sort of thing stuck to your internals and later stuck in your oil sump is just asking for trouble. If Ceramic was that great why wasn't any engine oil made with it? Unless you're physically bonding the block and internal parts with ceramic (ceramic coating), adding liquid ceramic isn't quite the same thing. It'll still eventually break down and the type of sludge left over will be "fantastic".

I'd just personally use a good oil and leave it at that.

As for good gearbox oil, what sort of ATF does the swift use? I'm sure you'll find a Motul or a Redline that suites your needs and those are pretty good stuff. A complete swap out of fluids + a new ATF filter will do wonders for you. And if you haven't already, get a ATF cooler.

note : this is purely my personal opinion. You are not obliged to agree and have the right to your own opinion as do I.

This post has been edited by izso: Jul 19 2012, 07:39 PM

i am not sure this lubegard is under local made or USA ?
lubegard in market also got engine oil . carry by cycle and carriage bintang ? WTF is going on man . so many similiar name out there

Just an information:

1) Engine Oil + Ceratec >>> OK
2) MTF + Ceratec >>> OK
3) ATF + Ceratec >>> CANNOT
4) Differential Oil + Ceratec >>>OK

I hope no one is confused ... cos i read that someone was trying to use ceratec with ATF ...

http://www.lubegard.com/~/C-113/LUBEGARD+P...+ATF+Protectant

This is the one that ulet was specifically talking about.

i hope so, btw it's still rare to be available in market. frankly, i never see this XD
sounds good .

This ceratec won't last forever inside engine, it only last for 50k KM, for further technical info how it works, got to ask ThunderGod_Cid or Quazacolt for explaination

I have no idea what ATF that swift is currently using, do not know much about ATF

personally i dont think it even last beyond 30-40k km haha. my engine isn't as "orangey" as it was when i first put in ceratec 10-15k km ago lol

Orange? I thought is grey mang, haven't open the bottle yet

LM is grey/black ish, ceratec on the other hand, ceramic based additive/compound, yeah orange lol

Thanks to ulet I have got my grubby paws on a Asbro ATF additive and hopefully later a Lubeguard ATF platinum for comparison.

Now if I can find a sponsor to do a oil analysis I'd gladly feature that sponsor on a very popular website.

Any takers for a objective comparison for these additives?

Done servicing on my gearbox yesterday

ATF cooler + Q8 Unitrans JK + Lubegard Platinum

Feels lighter

asbro atf additive? never heard it before.. trustable?
at least there is tonnes of positive testimonial on lubegard, even the oil analysis in bob is the oil guy forum.

i can't wait for a proper comparison/UOA

so what are your test cases and pre/post tests? it's going to be a looooooooooonnnnnnnnnnnngggg 1-2 years timespan to test out 2 products + a pre test without neither TBH

then gasket+filter set and flushing every conclusion to make results accurate.

then of course a UOA sponsor heh.

hey depending on the total cost etc, i think i may be able to help out (maybe few people chipping in etc) for the sake of SCIENCE!

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Added on July 23, 2012, 12:21 amFUH straight away do all these 3 things. how much you got quoted for the Q8 and lubegard (including service charge) and where you got it done?

also you got notice the Q8 fluid color? is it red? i wonder if mine is using the exact fluid. my workshop dude just told me it is Q8 semi syn oil without the model/product detail, somemore its taken out from a bigger drum and not individual bottles to save cost

so far so good though, things are a ton smoother as i've tried that Q8 semi syn oil without lubegard, still smoother than shitty "highly appraised (by workshops at least)" toyota ATF lol. then got poisoned to try lubegard and lol even smoother and oil during oil drain is much cleaner compared to without.

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Jul 23 2012, 12:25 AM

Got someone offer to me FOC.. I take and do comparison objectively lor. If I can't get a UOA then will probably do other less-than-scientific-comparisons.

Q8 is RM49 per bottle and the Lubegard platinum is RM9X, done these at Kaitenaz Racing.

Actually wanna add ATF cooler only, since they need to top up some ATF after installation, some more has been using for 30k KM, might as well drain the entire ATF and change new.

Yea the Q8 Unitrans JK is in red color, as well as lubegard platinum. Same goes to mine, they don't have proper product label sticker on it, maybe it is the same thing, only sold in big drum or something.

Some poison and reference

that's the exact bottle when i requested them to show me a bottled version so i can check out the labels/product description way back then.

albeit it did not come with the marker pen "Q8 unitrans JK". just a "blank" Q8 bottle
per bottle should be a liter i assume? if yes then yeah pricing is about the same that i've gotten for my place.

i dont know la, however from the way how smooth my auto shifts are, i am not even sure if one even needs an ATF cooler after you're on good semi syn (the product sheet says synthetic from Q8 site, however my workshop foreman says its semi synthetic only) AND lubegard platinum.

the main reason why one gets an ATF cooler is to cooldown ATF temperature because the higher temperature it goes for the ATF, the viscosity may change and may be off your tranny specifications or at least very near off which may not offer enough protection.

i've never experienced jerks/delays in shifts ever since i'm on Q8 and eventually lubegard, and that totally killed my thoughts of getting an ATF cooler since i probably don't need one.

Alas the above claims are from non-scientific claims/feels/experience, which may or may not be accurate as opposed to having a proper thermostat/device to check your actual ATF temperature/viscosity.
however one thing to note, MAJORITY of stock vehicles DOES NOT have ATF coolers installed in their car, so *maybe* it really isn't needed

Fake product? They buy in bulk? God knows man... I could not care much since Kaitenaz Racing has reputation. Nazlee did introduced me the Torco ATF, but it is damn pricey, around double of Q8

I did not experience any jerks or delays as the gearbox is still new(2 years++) but does feel that car is hard to pull after long driving, getting hot maybe?

I just throw a cooler in so I don't need to worry about gearbox overheating when I pull it hard as I don't have any gauge to check the temperature. Just for prevention and feel good factor

Not going to install engine oil cooler, just waiting next coolant change and get a good coolant. Has quite good review, can be found at ACE hardware

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Added on July 23, 2012, 11:57 amThis is the coolant I mentioned



This post has been edited by sengasdf: Jul 23 2012, 11:57 AM

Seng.. Engine oil cooler important for kaki like u ler.. Haha

haha i was introduced to torco ATF too. price was
and i thought, proton 3 speeder auto only dei, no need so pamper it right? LOL

well if you're not having jerks/delays you didn't really need lubegard right? hows the "feel good factor" going? better shifts? less 0.2 sec that you probably didn't feel? lol

hmm maybe can look into that coolant. reviews from where?

3 speeder? very good top end wor

Not sure if is new oil or Lubegard, it actually feels lighter, not as sluggish as before. Better shift? I am suck on butt-dyno man...

This coolant has already mixed properly, so just pour in without mixing water. Had the review long time ago, can't remember the site..

Might try Lubegard coolant

This post has been edited by sengasdf: Jul 23 2012, 02:38 PM

ok la, exceeded proton's original spec by few km/h max speed, despite being mostly stock (performance wise, only got lcp and full exhaust system replacement, 15" wheels is kinda a downgrade than upgrade in most sense lol)

then just masuk redline and forever cannot climb (or until traffic approaches lol)

and suddenly going lubegard full product ranges

remember back then when izso mentioned about torco not being API certified? i actually sent them a mail that day btw.

took long enough for the torco corp rep replied me. now i am asking him if i can copy paste the entire content to LYN w
oh and he cant spell "allowed" lol americans XD

regardless i will continue further on the engine oil review thread ( http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1438525 )instead here as it is kinda derailing already

either torco lying to you or API forgot to put their brand in the directory list.
http://eolcs.api.org/brandSearchResults.aspx

don't worry, they admit that they are not API certified

is it ok to stuff it in when ur car gb has no prob? using myvi btw

if your gb no problem, what do you seek in lubegard anyways?

same with you what, for

posted in previous pages lorh

Which lubeguard to be used for my manual tranny with synchros problem?

More smooth tansmission change

lubegard yellow

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Added on August 3, 2012, 2:52 pm go ahead and give it a try then.

if possible, do a full flush and replace the filter as well before adding

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Aug 3 2012, 02:52 PM

this is not a coolant, this is to be used WITH a coolant. It's similar to water wetter from redline

is it worth to buy lubegard platinum? my n16 also have the same problem.
car not moving when the gear already engaged to "D".
i already change my gearbox oil last month.
is it still need to flush the gearbox & change filter or just add lubegard platinum to my gearbox...?
please advice.....

assalam,

try the new Dexron VI or Duradrive Synthetic ATF if you want...

sarjantulang

perhaps give it a full flush including replace the ATF filter (which will likely require gasket replacement too)
if still persist, perhaps give lubegard a try then.

personally, id recommend against using lubricants to solve problems because they are additives which helps elevate problems and doesn't solve the root cause of a problem.

then again with what so many people claims of it working/solving their problems (including my own experiences), why the hell not right? lol

w'salam....

is it ok with dexron VI? others people recomended dexron III.....

best to follow your manufacturer recommendations.

that said, if dextron 6 is backward compatible, then it shouldn't have problems

noted & tq for the advice bro.....
did u now how much it cost for flushing,replacement gasket filter & changing ATF oil?

This post has been edited by SENTRA N16: Oct 6 2012, 11:31 PM

totally ok...it is backward compatible with previous DexIII requirement....it is also give u 2x long life than dex iii...

sarjantulang

that depends on your car's gasket/filter cost, and of course the extra liters needed for a flushing.

not familiar with sentra, you'll need to check spare part shops/tan chong centers

noted.

Did u knows where is the best place to tuning & diagnosis engine & gearbox for sentra n16?
My gearbox now have problem,not running when engaged to "D". Before i go for flushing & changing oil,
i think i want do tuning & diagnosis 1st. Any suggestion at cheras area? Price?

if engaged to D not running...i dun think flush n replace atf will solve the problem

u need to overhaul the gearbox edi

by right, tan chong/nissan SC should be the "best" place. however that obviously may not be the cheapest. other than that i have no idea, sorry

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Added on October 9, 2012, 11:12 amhence my initial message of troubleshooting the root cause, although there are many cases of lubegard solving it "magically", so that's worth a "cheap try" as well

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Oct 9 2012, 11:12 AM