QUOTE(r3apers @ Jul 13 2012, 05:08 PM)
u also got few UR sticker also... 
Yup, Bro...mega tks to yu!!! 
PROTON SAGA BLM, FL, FLX CLUB V25, Drive Saga Like a Boss!
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 Jul 13 2012, 05:13 PM
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#41
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784 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Rice Bowl of Msia  
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Jul 13 2012, 05:16 PM
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#42
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784 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Rice Bowl of Msia
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QUOTE(GP mad man @ Jul 13 2012, 05:13 PM) minor service go SC nearest to u will do, no need pruposely travel to COSE Yup, wld save mayb arnd 1 & half hrs, too!!   |
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Jul 13 2012, 05:19 PM
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#43
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784 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Rice Bowl of Msia
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QUOTE(r3apers @ Jul 13 2012, 05:15 PM) he like COSE...coz got free kopi..sumtime got free biskut/snacks...nicer place to sit... and so on+++ Yup, me read sumone said he walloped all the curry puffs there one time!! ur welcome...hehe^^ had u stick the works engineering sticker?  Re Works stickers, juz stuck small ones nia... Big ones TOO huge! Not fit anywhere nicely...  Mayb if Campro 16-valve one spoilt....?  |
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Jul 13 2012, 05:36 PM
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#44
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If me may add here...
Feel there's a certain degree of wrong perception that services done @bigger SCs wld be better.... However, it's usually NOT TRUE.  Why? They normally hv more cars 2handle and unless management is very strict, many tend 2take short cuts, if yu kno wat I mean... A very clear case... Major Service me witnessed. Old saga. Valve tappets/clearances must b checked & readjusted. Mech juz started engine, turned it off & it's DONE!! Phew.... And owner's paying 4nothing done!  In my own case, mech LOST retaining spring of rear brake shoes! No spare sparts there! @main SC in City! He had2 go out on bike 2find one fr outside spare parts shop!! Of course, there's also no denying that certain aspects are better there than smaller SCs. Eg warranty claims?  This post has been edited by zeone: Jul 13 2012, 05:40 PM |
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Jul 14 2012, 09:38 AM
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#45
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784 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Rice Bowl of Msia
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QUOTE(lhwj @ Jul 13 2012, 10:33 PM) I've been using 15w50 all these while  QUOTE(lhwj @ Jul 13 2012, 11:25 PM) Proof that engine oil viscosity is not an important factor in FC hi & Good Morning!!  Re recent discussion (numerous times b4 this, too!) over suitable SAE EO grades, my fantastc hallucination here...agin...haha! IMHO most users are kinda confused over "monograde" (ole skool) & "multigrade" (new skool) EOs. A monograde SAE 30 only lubricates & protects as a single grade oil BUT DOES NOT provide suitable lube nor protect at less harsher/less demanding nor more hasher conditions. A multigrade SAE 30 (as the name suggests) provides such characteristics UP TO max SAE 30 conditions So similarly a multigrade SAE 50 E0 wld provide coverage for conditions up2 max SAE 50 requirements ie it wld do the same as if yu had SAE 40, 30, 20, etc depending on engine condition requirements Multigrade EOs provide general lube & protection over a wide range of requirements. Thus, me feel (IINM), no one shld hv any fear of using any multigrade EOs as long as it covers engine requirements. If our Saga when driven @ a particular time needs SAE 30 (eg when cold), it's available. If our Saga @that pt in time cos one thrashes it and thus need higher protection like with SAE 50, it's ALSO available!! An example : A 0W40 Multigrade covers grades fr SAE 0 to 40... Similarly 10W50 covers SAE 10 to SAE 50. Now me am sober.... Added on July 14, 2012, 9:44 amps. As alwaz...in all things in Life...theory & facts aside, all ends up a matter of personal belief, choice & decision. Like often quoted, watever works for yu...Wat make yu happy! Added on July 14, 2012, 9:47 am QUOTE(zeone @ Jul 14 2012, 09:38 AM) hi & Good Morning!! This post has been edited by zeone: Jul 14 2012, 09:51 AMRe recent discussion (numerous times b4 this, too!) over suitable SAE EO grades, my fantastc hallucination here...agin...haha! IMHO most users are kinda confused over "monograde" (ole skool) & "multigrade" (new skool) EOs. A monograde SAE 30 only lubricates & protects as a single grade oil BUT DOES NOT provide suitable lube nor protect at less harsher/less demanding nor more hasher conditions. A multigrade SAE 30 (as the name suggests) provides such characteristics UP TO max SAE 30 conditions So similarly a multigrade SAE 50 E0 wld provide coverage for conditions up2 max SAE 50 requirements ie it wld do the same as if yu had SAE 40, 30, 20, etc depending on engine condition requirements Multigrade EOs provide general lube & protection over a wide range of requirements. Thus, me feel (IINM), no one shld hv any fear of using any multigrade EOs as long as it covers engine requirements. If our Saga when driven @ a particular time needs SAE 30 (eg when cold), it's available. If our Saga @that pt in time cos one thrashes it and thus need higher protection like with SAE 50, it's ALSO available!! An example : A 0W40 Multigrade covers grades fr SAE 0 to 40... Similarly 10W50 covers SAE 10 to SAE 50. Now me am sober.... Added on July 14, 2012, 9:44 amps. As alwaz...in all things in Life...theory & facts aside, all ends up a matter of personal belief, choice & decision. Like often quoted, watever works for yu...Wat make yu happy! pps. Juz ask ourselves 1 simple question: Why was the Campro engine ORIGINALLY filled with SAE 20W50 EO @ factory/Engine Assembly Plant? And everyone trusted that oil to protect our Brand New engines for 1k+ Km b4 any oil changes? |
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Jul 14 2012, 09:58 AM
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#46
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784 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Rice Bowl of Msia
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QUOTE(poweredbydiscuz @ Jul 14 2012, 09:48 AM) If what u said is true, then why EO companies still selling SAE 40, 30, 20 since SAE 50 covers everythg? Like in my very simplified explanation, a SAE 30 multigrade covers up to SAE30 limits only...whereas SAE 50 is for up to a higher level. A matter of choice depending on engine & user requirements eg type of use & driving style. Long story... Mayb more reading up re "What is a Multigrade Engine Oil?" Added on July 14, 2012, 10:03 am QUOTE(lhwj @ Jul 14 2012, 09:55 AM) Actually the issues we were talking about were fuel consumption and engine response, and how using a lighter oil would help. I have no doubts about the lubricating qualities of any modern oil and I think you're right Methink yu are on right track there...  SAE 30 wld help in easier revs but NOT provide needed protection @higher revs nor @higher temp. An issue of choice... Owner / User makes that decision acc2 wat his car is used for and how it wld b driven. This post has been edited by zeone: Jul 14 2012, 10:25 AM |
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Jul 14 2012, 10:46 AM
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#47
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784 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Rice Bowl of Msia
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Juz 4sake of discussion & going back 2my hallucination state of mind....
Eg if one uses multigrade SAE 30 eg 10W30 for easier revving engine, one wld probably tend to rev a bit higher than normal, resulting in more internal stress, wear & tear which might not be provided for due2 now higher friction + resulting engine temp? Whereas a higher SAE grade multigrade wld be able to shift upwards to give needed lube & protection in such a situation? Let's juz look back in2 Saga's lube reco history... 2008 (BLMs) to Pre-late 2011 (later FLs) : reco grade = 20W50 Late 2011 to 2012 (FLXs) reco 10W30 AND MOST SCs fill up ALL Sagas = 10W40 Now yu tell me wat's going on...??? ps. AFAIK Saga is FIRST car model where reco EO grade has been officially changed in User Manuals! Also why are SCs NOT following as per reco in official manuals? My hallucination? Proton is catering to complaints by buyers of Sagas over poor FC and a quick immediate solution is to reco 10W30... However, if one chks the chart of suitable EO grades for ALL Sagas in ALL user manuals, ALL those grades ARE SUITABLE!! Haha! My hallucination stops here...long withdrawal period coming... Added on July 14, 2012, 10:55 am QUOTE(dares @ Jul 14 2012, 10:39 AM) From what I read, weight 50 lubes are overkill for normal city or even highway driving. Maybe good for track driving or high performance engines where the temperature runs very high. Yup, that statement is true, Bro. Under normal driving conditions, 40 should be plenty enough, even with the occasional spirited sprint However, we are not dealing with Single (monograde) oils nowadays...but MULTIGRADES... A SAE 10W50 is NOT an SAE50 grade oil but covers SAE grades from SAE10W up to SAE 50... So if we drive "normally", the oil wld probably perform as SAE 30/40 (me really dun kno 4sure which). However, if we need to drive more than normal, the oil wld be able to perform as SAE 50 oil to give the lube & protection the moving parts need. That is the main advantage of Multigrades. Added on July 14, 2012, 11:04 amps. A multigrade EO eg 10W40 is NOT a 40 grade oil ONLY. It can be in simple terms a 10W, 5W, 0W, 10, 20, 30, 40 grade oil as the engine conditions demand of it. Sincerely hope that is a clearer pic? TQ 4reading this far. Feel me bored yu guys enuf oledi. Hv a nice wkend!! This post has been edited by zeone: Jul 14 2012, 11:04 AM |
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Jul 14 2012, 12:17 PM
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#48
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784 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Rice Bowl of Msia
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QUOTE(davidke20 @ Jul 14 2012, 12:12 PM) Ya, but why ebibodi worrying about their fully synthetic oil since a racecar only uses mineral oil Agreed. 1000%. aint that funny when everybody discussing about engine oil? Another thing is, I watch BEST MOTORING, they did onwheel dyno to test on engine oil for cars at 50k service to found generally those performance engine oil REDUCE bhp The key hailat of Tsuchiya San is, engine oil must change frequently regardless of grade/type. What basically harm the engine is the engine itself, more crucial is the oil filter whether it filter debries properly.'Red highlighted part is wat's crucial... Added on July 14, 2012, 12:30 pmps. Me gtg. Time 2prep go out 4lunch! Hv nice lunch, everybody! This post has been edited by zeone: Jul 14 2012, 12:30 PM |
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Jul 14 2012, 03:42 PM
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#49
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784 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Rice Bowl of Msia
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QUOTE(Fubar20 @ Jul 14 2012, 01:42 PM)  Bro, I dunno what you been eating for breakfast but it smell like crap from here. Seems like drugs to me. Multigrade oil doesn't mean it will cover a whole range of grade. SAE30 will have LOWER viscosity at 100 degrees (engine operating temperature) than a SAE50. To said that SAE50 will perform as SAE 30/40 when driving "normally", doesn't happen at the normal operating temperature or whatever temperature. http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroil_viscosity/ Tech data aside, a simple layman's understanding... a multigrade oil eg 10W30 (grade yu preferred) is thinner when cold eg 10W and thicker when hot eg 30. And the ideal "hot" is 100 deg C. And all the viscosity changes are ctrl-ed by VI modifiers/improvers. 10W30 oil has less such VI modifiers than in 10W50. Alwaz keep in mind our engines do NOT & kenot keep to "ideal" temp. True? Esp under "harsher" conditions eg stop/start, high revving, faulty thermostats, coolant capabilities, etc.. There's also the shear component value of oils & deterioration of those VI thingey. As such, a 10W50 oil wld offer better lube & protection than a 10W30, under similar higher temp conditions. Correct? Also a 10W30 oil might degrade to 10W20 while similarly a 10w50 might be arnd 10W40? That's why Fully Synthetics came into play... Important point still : YOU decide...As long as YU happy....not really matter...REALLY! ps. As Bro david so aptly put it : Wat's important is reg OCI & good filter performance. Mineral, FF, FS...as long as w/in reco grades....all ok wan. Agreed? Added on July 14, 2012, 3:52 pmpps. If a Multigrade oil of 10W30 does not function as a MULTIgrade oil, wld it not be more practical & econ to use a MONOgrade SAE30 oil? Added on July 14, 2012, 4:02 pm QUOTE(eqmal197 @ Jul 14 2012, 02:41 PM) this morning go to PE to pay the rest of dpayment. SA inform us we can collect the car monday or tuesday This is FIRST time me hear such an explanation re NEW cars!!! while waiting his manager to issue receipt, we had chit chat. on free give, got steering lock, tng card and tinted vaucher. SA also tell stories on some customers complaining leaking below engine. According to him, this is because each end of petrol hose that thighten to engine and tank is still smoot (lembut). so when put in full tank petrol, the air inside tank will create a high pressure and pushed through this hose, make the pengikat (sorry, dunno pronounce in english) a bit losen and causing leaking. he says when i get the car, dont fill up full tank. let it at least half tank so it won give air heavy pressure in tank. then dont fill full tank after use 1 or 2 week. then the thighten will become harder, thanks to engine heat he also inform that when transfering from factory to sijangkang, there; only small amount of petrol that new car can go untill 1km. this lets the air trapped in tank. just in case they use these small amt of petrol for moving purpose finally, waiting almost over Juz like plumbers talk abt GI water pipes will leak when juz fitted. Gotta wait till joints older then no leak oledi! Haha! Yup, wat plumber meant is he did NOT tighten/fit joint properly AND needs to wait for RUST to seal up joint!!! In petrol piping case, feel it's clip/hose prob... This post has been edited by zeone: Jul 14 2012, 04:04 PM |
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Jul 14 2012, 04:17 PM
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#50
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784 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Rice Bowl of Msia
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QUOTE(poweredbydiscuz @ Jul 14 2012, 04:06 PM) No doubt 10W50 provides better protection than a 10W30, but wtf 10W50 degrade to 10W40 and then 10W30?? Engine becomes more revvy?? There's definitely degradation of oil after period of use, Bro... Anyway, u have the right to choose what u wanna believe in  Engine does not become more revvy due2 breakdown of oil molecules & other contaminants ie byproducts during use. And yup, that also is everyone's right...to believe or otherwise... ps. Must end this hallucinatory session...not intend 2step on any toes here. This post has been edited by zeone: Jul 14 2012, 04:21 PM |
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Jul 14 2012, 04:27 PM
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#51
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784 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Rice Bowl of Msia
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QUOTE(Fubar20 @ Jul 14 2012, 04:18 PM) So where does sludge comes from? ps. Me better go into withdrawal 4me own good... Good advice : Juz TC yr ride in watever way works 4yu...and makes yu happy... Added on July 14, 2012, 4:30 pmpps. Me no tech guy nor got any qualification in car mech or engineering. Juz a man-in-street sharing his exp in his luv 4cars & car care. TC yr beloved Sagas! This post has been edited by zeone: Jul 14 2012, 04:30 PM |
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Jul 14 2012, 04:36 PM
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#52
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784 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Rice Bowl of Msia
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QUOTE(Fubar20 @ Jul 14 2012, 04:30 PM) Happy tripping, bro.Just dun say thicker oil give more protection than thinner oil, k? Re yr abv statement & this topic, we can, as they say, argue till the cows come home... Too many factors, aspects to consider, etc. ps. Withdrawal in progress...sincere apologies for any toes stepped on.... pps. Must nvr agin take wat me took for BF this morning...Huge hallucination there! Haha! This post has been edited by zeone: Jul 14 2012, 04:38 PM |
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Jul 14 2012, 04:40 PM
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#53
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784 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Rice Bowl of Msia
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QUOTE(Fubar20 @ Jul 14 2012, 04:37 PM)  No need apologies since no offence was taken. |
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Jul 14 2012, 09:41 PM
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#54
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784 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Rice Bowl of Msia
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QUOTE(dares @ Jul 14 2012, 09:09 PM) Front strut bar RM150.00 Any idea/info where dealers/stockists located up North? Eg A/Star or Pg?Rear strut bar RM130.00 Googled but no such results...not even main supplier! Plenty re UR! Juz the opposite... ps. Contemplating install RSB as rear "protection" for rear passengers...? Of course besides the main ori function. Bro david's suggestion a good valid one! UR one is too intrusive in2 boot area/spc. This post has been edited by zeone: Jul 14 2012, 09:44 PM |
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Jul 14 2012, 10:05 PM
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#55
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784 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Rice Bowl of Msia
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QUOTE(dares @ Jul 14 2012, 09:46 PM) You can ask if mahihi can post one to you, if you are willing to bear the shipping cost and find someone to install it / DIY Do yu all plan 2hv another similar bulk purchase for RSB? If so, then me can join & use savings 2help as part payment 4transportation/del charges since item kinda huge & heavy! QUOTE(r3apers @ Jul 14 2012, 09:52 PM) its very to install, if u had the correct tools...wakakak... Yup, DIY install shld b no prob fr Bro david's pics earlier.dares, whn RSB RSB?? wakkaka... Zeone, if u need boot space take 3max better.. UR is taken part of the boot space...big bag or laguage cant put it.... And yup, agree fully 3max more suitable for both my objectives. UR RSB protrudes in2 boot space cos it's REALLY an RSB ie 2 pts of bar connect strut tower to strut tower. 3max one only connects fr on part of rear seat backing to opp side of it. 3rd pt of both makes connects to same location IINM. This post has been edited by zeone: Jul 14 2012, 10:13 PM |
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Jul 15 2012, 07:52 AM
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#56
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784 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Rice Bowl of Msia
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QUOTE(lhwj @ Jul 14 2012, 11:48 PM) You know Z1 I'm gonna be driving between KL and Penang quite a few times in the next one month cos I'm moving back, if you really want you can buy the RSB from Mahihi and I'll bring it up FOC then you can collect it from me in Penang However, me not fr Pg... So cost of me travelling 2Pg wld be >cost of sending item direct liao... Of course, personal del'ry anytime lots better than sending by "public" means! Will sure KIV yr kind offer while me gonna try look arnd first, & if lucky, mayb find an acc shop that has it? Ok, Bro? Added on July 15, 2012, 7:55 amps. Good Morning, Everyone!! Hope Sunday starting fine...yu FSB Bros (& sis) Zzz ok? Added on July 15, 2012, 8:02 am QUOTE(dares @ Jul 15 2012, 12:15 AM) The soonest I might the the RSB is next month, though If me still kenot find that RSB here by then, mayb need yu 2add me 2list....ok, Bro? ps. Provided Bro Mahihi can send ... ? This post has been edited by zeone: Jul 15 2012, 08:02 AM |
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Jul 15 2012, 09:23 AM
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#57
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784 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Rice Bowl of Msia
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QUOTE(eqmal197 @ Jul 15 2012, 08:57 AM) hahahah. bro, it just the story. i didnt expect myself to believe Hi.... by the way, why need FSB? our car already lotus handling. those need FSB are one that really serious play their car at track. do they? Glad 2note yu din believe that c&b story... Juz me not surprised by wat some ppl can say.... Re FSB, feel it's juz a matter of making a reasonably good car (in its bracket) slightly better, w/in affordable means... It's a case of "when yu need it, yu hv it" !! This post has been edited by zeone: Jul 15 2012, 09:24 AM |
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Jul 15 2012, 06:19 PM
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#58
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Senior Member
784 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Rice Bowl of Msia
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QUOTE(eqmal197 @ Jul 15 2012, 05:51 PM) go iridium Fyi me using Denso Iridium 4abt 7k Km oledi. As Bro dares posted (pls see below), there's NO noticeable performance gain to driver...except mayb its longevity of use? QUOTE(dares @ Jul 15 2012, 04:50 PM) Spark plug, what do you mean which type? Ordinary ones thats lasts 20k km, or iridium ones that lasts 100k km. Neither will give any performance gain Added on July 15, 2012, 6:28 pmps. In such scenario, feel best 2hv new set Spark Plugs 4each 20k Km rather than the same ole set for 100k Km... True? This post has been edited by zeone: Jul 15 2012, 06:29 PM |
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Jul 16 2012, 09:04 AM
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#59
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784 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Rice Bowl of Msia
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QUOTE(omara86 @ Jul 16 2012, 07:43 AM) been pumping ron97 for 3 weeks alrdy, feels so good mang... when switching back to ron95 starting yesterday, the knocking is so obvious... hahahahah.. Oh? That obvious, huh?Mayb yr ride oledi got used to RON 97 and is protesting yu gave it cheapo fuel? Mayb give it time 2re-adjust 2wat yu're feeding it now? Btw Good Morning, Everyone!! Din take BF yet so no high now...no hallucinations!! Haha! This post has been edited by zeone: Jul 16 2012, 09:05 AM |
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Jul 16 2012, 04:24 PM
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#60
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784 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Rice Bowl of Msia
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QUOTE(Fubar20 @ Jul 16 2012, 04:16 PM) Still butthurt meh? Kan Z1 said thicker oil is better?  Correction here... Me did NOT say "thicker oil is better"... Me said a MULTIGRADE EO of SAE xW50 provides better protection than a xW30 one... NB. Important term here is "Multigrade" xW50 as opposed to a "Monograde" SAE50. ps. Juz 2clarify, me NOT take this morning wat me took 4BF on that day of discussion... So me not the slightest bit high now... |
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