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 <<XVII>>[ LYN Yamaha 135LC Club V17 ] <<XVII>>, 2 Stroker Pros Are Invited Here ! =)

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ken_ng
post Dec 5 2012, 02:14 PM

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1) yesterday chat around 20mins with another fz owner and made an appointment to meet up this saturday at bentong(another long journey for me). But today kena ffk again. haiz...no luck in getting a 2nd hand fz and not affordable for the new fz. may b i shd go to motorshop and get a 2nd hand fz directly from them instead of spending time waiting for ppl to sell their bike. besides, all the ownership transfer/insurance can be done easily if buy from shop. the reason i want to buy from private because shop's price is always higher. Oh ya, any1 knows how many yrs of warranty for yamaha bikes?

2) i also contacted a feb 2010 fz owner where the bike is 1st version. his bike mileage is less than 5k, rarely used. but his price is too high for a 2010 coz he's asking for 6k. i know the mileage is low but...then i tell him the truth where my budget is around rm5k and i ask him to think about it.

3) besides, also chat with a yr end 2009 kawa krr yesterday. mileage 9k+, all original but dropped once because of wet road. According to him, only coverset is affected, no damages/straches done on the body itself. roadtax and insurance expired Feb 2012 but the bike is still in running condition. he's looking for rm6.5k w/o insurance and i ask for rm6k. he replied will consider it if he didn't get better offer.

but i'm still considering want to take krr or not if he really offers me rm6k because krr is a hot target for thieves. and the parts are way more expensive than the fz.

those 2011 fz selling in shops are around rm6k+. if they are still under warranty from yamaha, do u guys think it's a good option to pay rm1k+ for the bike with warranty?

i'm really 'puncture' now. no more ohm...

This post has been edited by ken_ng: Dec 5 2012, 02:36 PM
ken_ng
post Dec 5 2012, 04:20 PM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Dec 5 2012, 04:00 PM)
Have you considered Belang? Why do you need another bike ah? 5k is a lot of money to spend leh. tongue.gif
*
i never consider belang. But this bike did come to my mind but i dont like the appearance, rim, etc and it looks like the old school Hurricane tongue.gif it's too low for me.

the reason i need another bike is because i may use it for long term and might using for long distance also. Besides, i'm not sure do u notice that the bikes(fz/krr) i'm looking for are abit bigger in size compare to those lagenda/wave etc. i have a big body size thats y i choose bigger bike(not sure is this an excuse) biggrin.gif

i did looking around mudah for more than a month. i found that 5k can buy 2010 lc es(1st model) and 08/09/10(but rare) fz. but i prefer fz as it is bigger and fuel injection.

last time u mentioned that u are using a 2t bike, not sure u mind to tell what bike are u using?

This post has been edited by ken_ng: Dec 5 2012, 04:28 PM
ken_ng
post Dec 6 2012, 10:41 AM

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thanks for all the input. hmm, actually this is LC thread but i talk bout other bikes. Sry to all LC owners ya. But i guess we are welcome to talk about bike here because I dont find other topics which are active.

i've been asking for 3 first gen FZ too. they are having 5k, 9k and 20k mileage repesctively. The 9k one is sold and 20k one is booked, both of them are 2008. While the 5k one is registered in Feb 2010 and he's asking for rm6k(insurance expired) which i think the price is too high for the 2010 because the v2 FZ 2011 is selling around rm6k+ now. I told him honestly that my budget is rm5k and let him think bout it.

I contacted another FZ owner yesterday night and we'll meet up tonight. The bike is reg on min yr 2011, 5k mileage and everything in original condition. Cash price is rm6k(insurance till mid of 2013). At the same time while we are in communication, another buyer contacted him as well and that buyer offered the same price and wanted to meet up with him before my appointment.

Then i have to arrange my appointment with him before the other buyer. if d bike is ok, i'll pay him deposit tonight and then we'll go to jpj tmr to transfer the ownership. Balance will be paid after the ownership transfer and bike and geran will be given to me at the same time.

May i ask is there any things i must check carefully tonight? plz advice me. Besides, is it possible to check the engine number?

This post has been edited by ken_ng: Dec 6 2012, 10:42 AM
ken_ng
post Dec 7 2012, 11:48 AM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Dec 7 2012, 03:17 AM)
*
I met with the fz owner yesterday. Before i meet with him, i went to hardware shops to find a good lock. According to the boss, he recommended Yale 60mm(gold body) or Yale(sth with boron material) than Solex. Coz he said quite a few customers told him those police recommend Yale lock to prevent the small thieves. The gold body is rm60, Boron is rm90, Solex(either 55mm or 60mm) is rm60. When i look at the locks, suddenly the lock at my house comes to my mind and i ask him "Do u have Viro lock?". He took a short while to look for it and he found it. The reason i ask for this lock is because it has been used in my house for 20yrs and it is still functions as good as a new one. Besides, it is Made In Italy and it is a 70mm lock. I think it is good enough for me at the moment. Then i ask him for steel chain but he don't have it. So i'll look stell chain in coming days.

Meet with the buyer. When I look at the bike, the first impression is "like new" brows.gif Look closely to every part of the bike, what i can say is "like new". It's a July 2010 bike and the mileage is around 4.4k now, front tyre 90/80, rear either 110 or 100(cant remember correctly) and both are Maxxis. The owner changed to these tyres when he bught the bike. The tyre looks 85-90% new. Chain and sprocket very clean, engine parts looks new, body looks new. What i can say is the bike is well maintained by the owner.

Time to test the bike. Start the bike using the electric starter, press the button and the bike is started immediately. So the battery shd be ok. Listen to the engine and it sounds the same with/without pressing the clutch, so clutch shd have no problem. Engine runs smooth and the sound is not as rough as the 1 i tested at kuala selangor. Put my hand at the back of the exhaust hole, the wind/air came out with lot of omph. It's powerful. Check the headlamp, tail lamp, signals and all indicators on the odometer. Everything is functuning. All the parts have no sign of rusty.

Ride on the bike, go straight, go round, turning, go through bumps, brakes, all runs well. Absobers and monoshock no weird sound when go through bumps. The only only problem is rear brake is not so 'tight', may b have to change the rear brake shoes. After some discussions, then i transfer rm500 to him through ATM to lock the deal as there is another buyer going to meet with him after my appoinement.

This morning went to JPJ, fill in forms, pay him RM500 in cash to gain his trust, buy new insurance(RM342) coz insurance is not trasferrable, transfer the ownership, go to Maybank near the JPJ and transfer the balance(RM5000) to him. While waiting for our turn, i chat with him. I ask him how much he bought this bike and he showed me all the receipts and i shocking.gif Bike(RM8k+), accessories(sampan, front absobers cover, rear tyre mudguard, helmat, alphinestar jacket, Maxxis tyres etc cost him RM1k+) shocking.gif After i transfer the balance to him, i pay him extra RM50 for teh tarik.

So i pay RM6000 + RM50 for:
- geran
- bike
- disc brake lock
- shoei helmat
- alphinestar jacket (never think that he'll give me the jacket)
- gloves (it's also and extra for me)

* The reason i'm so rush is because another buyer is eyeing on this bike and i dont want to miss such a good bike.

Ride the bike to office, lock the bike. So lucky that the Viro 70mm is just nice to fit the sprocket. I believe a 75mm cant fit in dy. Going to buy a steel chain and a Xena X2 disc lock. Xena X2 is selling for rm90 in ebay. Any1 know where can i buy a steel chain or steel cable with at least 15mm and above?

This is my experience with the FZ. Thank you.

This post has been edited by ken_ng: Dec 7 2012, 12:20 PM
ken_ng
post Dec 8 2012, 01:06 AM

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thanks for all the valueable information and i'll take note on all of them. I've check the rear tyre, it is a Maxxis Promaxx Street 110/80/17.

besides, i'm still looking for a 15mm above chain/cable. This one looks ok, around USD30.

Going to hardware shop to look around this weekend.

This post has been edited by ken_ng: Dec 8 2012, 01:06 AM
ken_ng
post Dec 9 2012, 10:18 PM

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QUOTE(NoobboyZzZ @ Dec 8 2012, 01:31 AM)
no nid lock so much la ... if thieve wan curi comfirm  can la...
try xena lock like mine double metal plate one...  laugh.gif
*
ya. if they wan sure can steal. but like other say, they prefer a lesser locks bike to reduce all the hassle.

oh ya, I went to Ace Hardware shop yesterday and I bought the Sure-Loc U-lock(can refer here) which only cost RM69.90 while the link i showed is selling RM99.00. Never thought of Ace Hardware shop will sell cheaper thumbup.gif This U-lock is 14mm thickness. So my bike has 3 locks atm which are front disc lock(given by the seller), Viro 70mm for the sprocket at the moment and the new U-lock is used at rear tyre sweat.gif The reason i used at rear is because when i bought the U-lock i never noticed that my front forks are covered with the fork covers doh.gif paiseh... I also went to a few big hardware shops but none of them selling steel chain. I think i'm going for the alternative which is steel cable, plannig to buy 20mm and above. hmm, am i over? hmm.gif Saw some steel cables but not dare to buy coz they are made in china. I affraid the keys/lock is spoilt then i jialat rclxub.gif I know a lot of things are made in china nowadays but shakehead.gif Since i have 3 locks now, will spent some time to find for a better steel cable.

Besides, I also bought Q-Plus 909 chain lube(RM18.90 - 300ml) which is recommended by some FZians in other forum. At first i wanted to buy kerosine(result of googling) to clean the chain but i went to a few mini markets and hardware shops and none of them are selling kerosine. Finally I used WD-40 to clean the chain which is an alternative for kerosine. After that i start the engine n engage 2nd gear to warm up the chain and I apply the chain lube on it while it is still warm.

That's what I did to my bike in this weekend. Oh ya, my front tyre is Maxxis Diamond 90/80 icon_rolleyes.gif Wondering how come my rear Maxxis Powermaxx Street 110 looks smaller than those LC135 110 hmm.gif

This post has been edited by ken_ng: Dec 9 2012, 11:21 PM
ken_ng
post Dec 9 2012, 10:19 PM

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is tupai refers to 125Z? hmm.gif
ken_ng
post Dec 10 2012, 09:49 AM

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QUOTE(NoobboyZzZ @ Dec 10 2012, 09:02 AM)
rim kecik become bulat lol go buy 2.5 rim
as i know not O ring chain no nid use chainlube la wash duit je... better use EO to lube the chain  laugh.gif
*
oh, the reason is looks smaller is because of the rim. No wonder the LC's tyre looks flatter n mine is round one. i think my front also looks round since it is a 90/80. Hmm, rims later coz no budget now. I've dig everything I have in the bank for this FZ already cry.gif Btw, is it a waste to use these(bigger) tyres in a small rim where the tyre is not fully funtioning?

Juz curious has rim selling piece by piece or they go in a pair? hmm.gif Besides, how much for a pair of rims with better/mid-range quality(average price)? From the Yamaha-motor website, it said FZ tyres: Front 2.75– 17 41P | Rear 90/90 – 17M/C 49P. But they didn't mentioned the size of the rim.

edited: i found the rim size and suggested tyre size from other forum:
QUOTE
yang paling sesuai mengikut saiz rim..
front rim 1.60-tire 80/80
rear rim 1.85-tire 90/80

tapi, oleh kerane saiz taya nampak agak kecik pade body fz yang agak besar..cukup la sekadar
front rim 1.60-tire 90/80
rear rim 1.85-tire 100/80

oh ya, the chain is O-ring chain nod.gif That y i have to take better care of it icon_rolleyes.gif

I went to my regular motorshop this morning to buy a set of raincoat(bought RacingBoy raincoat coz i'm looking for a thicker one. He claimed that Givi cheaper raincoat is thin. The raincoat cost me rm60) and he said it's a great buy when he saw my bike icon_rolleyes.gif

=================================================================================
I have some doubts on engine oil but i know this topic is very subjective. I read from the user manual that the recommended engine oil is 20W-50 API SF,SG type or higher JASO MA.

I found that alot of the engine oil now has higher grade API which is SL or SJ. I'm wondering should I stick to SF/SG which is recommended or i can go for higher grade? So far I can only find Repsol Moto Town 4T 20W50(SF), Motul 3000 4T 20W50(SG) and Shell AX3(SG). Other then the 2 mentioned, Castrol Activ(SL), Hi-Rev 4T 600(SJ) etc in other grades. Those lower grade engine oils seem like is used for old engine and they are cheaper(in terms of price and grade). hmm.gif
* Exclude other viscocity

This post has been edited by ken_ng: Dec 10 2012, 05:52 PM
ken_ng
post Dec 11 2012, 10:13 AM

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QUOTE(NoobboyZzZ @ Dec 10 2012, 06:44 PM)
try yamahalub semi ... u comfirm suka ur engine , mine last 2k service still damn smooth  wub.gif
then now i use castrol power1 , feel a bit heavy for engine engine rating is low
still i love yamahailube
*
i read a few comments where they are saying the same thing that the yamahalub cause their engine sounds more rough. hmm.gif Not sure 20W-50 will be difficult to start the engine in the morning. May b i shd give semi syn like 15W-40 a try.
QUOTE(detomaso @ Dec 11 2012, 12:11 AM)
talking about locking devices... hahaa.. remmbered when i got my bikes.. same like u bro... 3 lock.. endup now.. 2 solex act like paper weight for my raincoat in da basket.. ha ha ha ha..
*
haha, hope i'm not 3 minutes warm in doing so. But still ok for me since it only takes around 1-2min for locking the bike. But i'm carrying 3 of them with me in my bag everyday nod.gif Can really feel the weight for my back.
ken_ng
post Dec 11 2012, 11:03 PM

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QUOTE(NoobboyZzZ @ Dec 11 2012, 09:24 PM)
ini monster mang

wondering , 60mm ceramic shark block + rxz carb can tahan ah? with cms or uma cam
thinking upgrade my lc .. feel slow ...
*
juz wondering how slow is your slow hmm.gif tongue.gif
ken_ng
post Dec 12 2012, 11:08 AM

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QUOTE(melvinho @ Dec 12 2012, 09:11 AM)
wa, yamahalub and honda also in the picture sweat.gif
ken_ng
post Dec 12 2012, 02:24 PM

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QUOTE(melvinho @ Dec 12 2012, 12:27 PM)
biasa la..last time i lepak @a motorshop near my house, there is a ton of ppl collect used oil for recycle..
recommended EO : silkolene / penzoil (for me la)
shyan also tested silkolene. ask him for review.
*
ya, my regular workshop also told me the same thing.

He said:"few years back no 1 want those used oil. I have to pay some1 to take away those oil from my shop. But now, they pay me for the used oil! U just think what will they do with the used oil whistling.gif "

And then i doh.gif

So it's so clear from what he told me. That's why we'll see alot of fake oil nowadays. Usually the more famouse the oil is, the more fake oil of this brand out there. Especially Castrol and Shell(car engine oil), alot n alot of fake oil out there.

This post has been edited by ken_ng: Dec 12 2012, 02:27 PM
ken_ng
post Dec 13 2012, 05:41 PM

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I've found something very useful in selecting the engine oil for motorcycle. It's just a reference, the decision is still in every biker's hand nod.gif

API CLASS RATINGS APPLICABLE TO MOTORCYCLES:
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


API or JASO?
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


This website/source also talked alot on the addictive(Zinc, Phosphorus, Magnesium, Calcium etc ) and the usage of these addictives.

I've found 1 thing which is interesting after a few days of googling where quite a number of bikers(local and international) are using heavy duty engine oil (HDEO, it is NOT car eo) on their bike shocking.gif I'm really shocked by this. HDEO usually used on trucks/heavy vehicles. They claimed that their engine become very smooth and have no clucth slipperage problem. The mostly HDEO used are Mobil Delvac MX and Shell Rimula R3X or even Shell Rotella(if you are $$$).

This is just my humble sharing. Again, you have the right to choose your favourite eo for your bike.

This post has been edited by ken_ng: Dec 13 2012, 05:57 PM
ken_ng
post Dec 14 2012, 10:21 AM

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QUOTE(NoobboyZzZ @ Dec 14 2012, 01:06 AM)
jus stick bak to normal eo if u not really sure , now aday market eo already good for our bike , such as penzoil , rock oil , silkolene etc but one thing is $$$ ada wang ada speed
at the end still depend your golden right hand and left hand that control clutch and speed
and better do top set overhaul every 20k for checking valve etc and clutch plate
*
true. ic, have to do top set overhaul every 20k...

QUOTE(alexei @ Dec 14 2012, 08:18 AM)
I mentioned before, for LC, I think better use API-SG. HDEO has a lot more anti-oxidant and higher detergency to maintain a cleaner engine.
Also, since it's designed for heavy duty engines, I imagine it is more suitable for high stress engine, but not sure about high speed purpose.
*
alex, u are right. those HDEO is good for high stress engine and NOT for speed purpose. Some HDEO claimed that bikes have higher rpm if compare to cars thats why HDEO is good for bike. The use of HDEO is to maintain a good engine, transmission etc, not for top speed/pickup/other performance purpose.
*This is not a recommendation on using HDEO

I'll stick to API SG and JASO MA/MA2 as recommended by the user manual. So far i'm able to find a few products which fits the requirement:
Motul 3000 20W-50: API SG & JASO MA
Shell Advance AX3 SAE J300 15W-40, 20W-40, 20W-50: API SG & JASO MA
Silkolene Super 4 10W-40, 20W-50: API SF, SG & JASO MA, MA2
Total HIPERF 4T Super 20W-50: API SG & JASO MA
Valvoline® 4-Stroke Motorcycle Oil 10W-40, 20W-50: Meet or exceed API SF,SG, SJ & Meet or exceed JASO MA2 (Not sure m'sia has this product coz i dont find this in valvoline asia website)

Just some sharing. I guess not many bikers use 20W-50 now. hehe, paiseh.

This post has been edited by ken_ng: Dec 14 2012, 10:26 AM
ken_ng
post Dec 14 2012, 11:08 AM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Dec 14 2012, 10:44 AM)
20W-50 not suitable for LC, stick to 10W-40, or 5W-40.
*
oops, the 20W50 is not for LC, it's for my FZ smile.gif
ken_ng
post Dec 17 2012, 12:13 PM

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i went to change EO at a motor shop. At first i'm looking for Shell Advance AX3 20W50(API SG & JASO MA) but they dont have it, they have the other model of AX3 which is SAE40(API SG only) so i didn't choose AX3. Looking for other EO in my list like Motul 3000, Sikolene and Total. None of them on the shelf.

At that time i have no choice then i have to take Castrol Activ(API SL, JASO MA2), i'm not forget the viscocity, not sure it's 15W40, 20W40 or 20W50. Then i ask the foreman to replace the oil filter(OF) for me as well. When he unscrewed and took out the OF, all the old EO on the OF leak out to my sampan cry.gif Then he changed the OF and EO for me and never clean casing for me. Haiz, what a bad experience!

1) Not the EO i wanted.
2) The foreman doesn't do things neat n tidy.
3) Expensive(Yamaha ori OF charged me rm15, Castrol Avtiv EO rm20)

Gonna do the oil change myself next time.
* The shop is selling AX3 SAE40 for rm16, then i went to Shell petrol station and i found that the same EO is selling @ rm13 and the AX320W50 is selling @ rm16.20.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
all sifus here, i need help here. May i ask what is clutch sliperage? I have try to google but i cant really understand what it means.

My situation is:
There is no problem for me to engane 1st gear. But when i want to shift to 2nd gear(pull up), i'll always shift to Neutral instead of 2nd gear(at least 4 times out of 10 times). May i ask is it my shifting skill problem or it is a problem with the clutch/gear?
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I pumped Caltex ron97 yesterday because i want to give my naked wife bike some action so that she is not so tight tongue.gif hehe... actually i wanted to say my bike is still very "tight", my max top speed atm is around 85-90kmh and my max rpm is 7000(i rarely rev to 7000, usually 6500). I havent go any higher than that coz i feel that she's still tight. I guess the ex-owner has never done break-in for this lady. So i'm thinking to pump another tank of ron97 again when it's empty so that i can rev abit higher for the bike to get "looser". Then stick back to ron95 after these.

Is this a bad idea?

This post has been edited by ken_ng: Dec 17 2012, 03:56 PM
ken_ng
post Dec 17 2012, 08:17 PM

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hmm, the Castrol Activ seems not good. My shifting of gears is not smooth after a ride to another. haiz, have to spend $ again to change EO cry.gif
ken_ng
post Dec 18 2012, 10:21 AM

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QUOTE(machai_world @ Dec 17 2012, 09:25 PM)
Klac Slip Sign :
Pulas trottle - enjin mangaumm..... - mcam tade efek/sekadar bunyi je lebih...

Hope you understand what I mean

Klac Plate? maybe....
*
i think i understand. but u mentioned pulas trottle, i guess u mean when i have gear and i pulas throttle, the bike got sound only but seems like not going, or i'm wrong? Shd be same meaning as bro alex also saying the same thing "Clutch slip is when you release clutch, pull throttle but less acceleration.".
ken_ng
post Dec 18 2012, 10:25 AM

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QUOTE(alexei @ Dec 17 2012, 11:58 PM)
@ken: Do not change EO if you cannot find the one you want. castrol activ from website show 20W-50, not recommended for FZ, unless you plan to ride long distance where engine will be very hot. Diasil block suppose no need run in, and pls read front page about hard break in. If previous owner ady ride past 2000km, already consider run in, don't imagine too much about engine still 'tight'. Change EO yourself is fine, but make sure you dispose the used oil at the shop, not longkang. EO below rm20 I consider bad for gear change even when new, based on my limited experience, but enough to convince me use better one. I spend RM30-50 on my RGV EO. Clutch slip is when you release clutch, pull throttle but less acceleration. Not likely to happen caused by EO on small bikes, normally only if clutch due for change.
*
bro alex, thanks for the explaination and suggestion. Actually the time i got the bike, the mileage is already 4400k km so i think i shd forget bout the break-in. Bout the EO, next time i'll change better EO and will go for 15W40 since 20W50 is not recommended.

oh ya, when i'm selecting the EO, the foreman already drain my EO so i cant go to other shop dy sad.gif

besides, do u mind to share what EO are u using for your RGV? brows.gif oh ya, and also how long do u change your EO since RGV is a 2T bike?

This post has been edited by ken_ng: Dec 18 2012, 12:13 PM
ken_ng
post Dec 18 2012, 10:27 AM

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QUOTE(NoobboyZzZ @ Dec 18 2012, 12:31 AM)
could be eo too thick , so gear changing not smooth lol
anyway this problem all lc and tupai z also got la.. for clutch version , last time i use normal yamahalub after 600km sure will got these problem
*
haha, then u shd try other EO also tongue.gif

have a nice TT with u and learnt alot from u yesterday notworthy.gif

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