magnecrap actually do what one

ask uncle google...

CoSE finally took my call. They will have to check it out with the service department. Hopefully they haven't done the X1R thing.

Not sure whether that Bardhal i used was fake or not, but my yindian father decided to save money and buy the cheapest engine oil out there.. Ended up with that shit.. at around 2k ended up changing back to Magnatec.. That time i was a noob in differentiating fake oil all..

The AMS Oil i used, during the start its very good, but it blackens too fast.. And at around 7-8k mileage it becomes quite heavy like HX7 and starting up the engine takes some effort. furthermore the oil was 5W-30, so its technically suppose to be better at its end of life compared to 40 viscosity oil at its start and mid life.

As for makan minyak i did see some negligible drop in oil volume.. And its either 30viscosity oil is not suited for our engine or AMS oil is not giving proper protection, my tappet sounded very loud during idling and even louder when engine accelerates under load. Thats signs of thin filming of oil to protect the contact areas..

From what i researched out, newer engines to make them emit lesser emissions, they tighten the gap between the cylinder and the walls, and they add in extra oil rings along the piston to reduce engine exhaust blowby and also increase compression ratio to churn out more power.. Newer engine designs have a centrifugal effects where the petrol injected in will create a rich area near the spark plug so that it ignites easily and lean around the edge of the pistons. so overall they can maintain a leaner fuel ratio while maintaining engine smoothness..

Our campro, semua ini technologi pun tarak.. Hamchoi satu enjin cam-tak-pro plus air runner made out of china mali punya plastic.. No wonder our engines are only Euro 2/3 engines..

So end of story is recommend u all to use 40 viscosity oil and get oil that are more durable against engine blow-bys.

Liqui- Moly engine oil contains additives + Ceratec additives + X1-R additives.. Ended up engine overflow with additives and dont have any engine oil to run on as base..hahaha...

magnetrap is to trap those metal dirts in the oil filter so that it wont leak out of the oil filter into the engine...

i think is like that gua

so in long term its good lo

i cuddnt afford expensive oil.. so

i buy the EU shell semi syn from tesco - 3 bottle.. ( 1 bottle 5L ) during their cheap sale. now running on it.
before this was lucas semi
before that was bardhal fully
use tesco value semi syn before that
and during warranty period - petronas semi syn

More like customer problem.
There is an endless number of people in this thread who never specified what to service to the SA and get this kind of surprise from them.

I've been very specific. I even told him what to do with engine oil and the amount I want. He suka suka go add X1R at the bottommost item without even informing me.

Then ask him to suck it out.
At COSE ah? So, what is the progress?

FNF invaded by Toyota Camry.

This post has been edited by Fubar20: Jun 12 2012, 02:24 PM

At CoSE. Didn't call me back yet.

Theoretically, yes, its good. Practically, no, it does not help the user much but help the seller a lot. Gimmick item, free cash for the seller..

The most metal shaving comes from the 1st 1K when its new. That is why its necessary to change lube and filter at 1K mileage. The next 4k, there is still quite some partically shaved from the bore wall, etc. Thats is why IMO, its recommended to change at 5K service (4K mileage). After that, its normal micro particle shaving that happens normally to all engine, the filter can do its job as usual. With the 1K, 5K oil filter change, Magnacrap is actually not necessary at all as oil filter will do its job for filtering those crap for the 1st 2 short service interval.

Do note some other more advance car makes, does not require 1K mileage lube change. Their tight and high tolerance manufacturing process minimize these shaving and it was usually done at the factory (lube change to drain most initial metal particles) before delivering to customer. These manufacturer does not require lube change at 1K and maybe only require 1K service check to ensure everthing runs well.

Unfortunately our Proton still using inefficient old tech and cost saving manufacturing process and pass the bucks to the customer where customer pay for it at 1K.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jun 12 2012, 04:22 PM

Ada RM 30 extra meh? I count RM 145-103 = RM 42 lo.

Thats their practice wat. You have to check before signing the paper. If not how they gonna earn commission?

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Added on June 12, 2012, 4:13 pmIt never masuk my car before. Think I care and wanna find out?



This post has been edited by xandras: Jun 12 2012, 04:13 PM

I tot RM135, like that RM42 x 4 = Rm 168 extra per year. Is it worth it vs the new Havoline Semi with newly formulated Deposit Shield that supposedly have better protection and retain VI longer.

Anyone interested?

http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/2186101

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Added on June 12, 2012, 4:25 pmno hav for Saga



This post has been edited by V12Kompressor: Jun 12 2012, 04:25 PM

You ask the price already? Need to repaint leh.

I dont know man. Havent tried the new Havoline Semi. But all in all the old Havoline itself is a good engine oil.

Last time, long long long time ago i asked it was RM 800 or so.

I bought mine from this guy but not the flip type

The side mirror included paint.. Just let him know what color you want

got new havoline edi meh?? why their website dun have??
the deposit shield since last time ah.
and talking about wastage of money i even wasted more because bought FS havoline.