What I understood in the manual...minimum API SL service...10 to 30w...actually you can use any oil rate  but must at least API SL rate or above...about the low rating is not effect as it rate for lowest ambient temperature...in europe the oil need stay liquip they got 4 season in winter the temp will drop to below 0 degree. About fuel consumption off course using fully syn. Oil fuel consumption  will low as the friction become lower due to oil charcteristic low viscocity but no oil break...nowdays at europe or US the service mileage also higher as modern engine and oil lubriction can stand more mileage...that why now they got 10000km period service...but if u use the right oil grade..do not worry bro.

Cool down bro...I see in the manual proton do not say cannot use 5w* oil. There are quotes in to use 10-30w SL or higher API standard...so  choose oil with high API standard...SL,SM or else. On grade for malaysia weather better stick to XX30W use fully syn. Then can service after 10000km mileage. If semi service after 5000km. Up to you bro...

this is bull. service interval for campro engines is 10k with factory  recomended grade oil. even the service interval book says 10k. even news annoucement says preve service interval 10k. so will u stop with this 5k-semi syn,10k fully syn mentality ? if u drive a honda, and its service manual says 5k. then, regardless of oil. u service 5k. if u drive a volvo, and its service manual says every 20k or once  a year u service every 20k.

so, u follow what your car manufacturer says.
engine oil r & d has improved a lot over the years, and the rule of thumb that our dad used cant be applied now.

but when your engine is running at optimum condition, I dont think the temperature is merely 35 degrees. 

but which of those you think has direct/ greater importance?

ambient temperature which determines the ability to start the engine (fluidity of engine oil)

or

operating temperature which determines the overall viscosity and longevity of the engine oil?

It has come to our general consensus that the engineers at Proton has recommended engine oil of at least SAE 10w30 and above. But, what does those numbers really means? It means that the oil has conformed to SAE10W specifications in winter testing (-17 degrees celcius) and conformed to SAE30 ratings during operating temperature (100 degrees Celsius). The 10w reflects the fluidity of the engine oil during winter temperature which determines the ability to crank the engine and keep it properly lubricated at the first crank of the engine. However, due to our ambient temperature which is constantly around 22~35 degrees Celsius there are no issues of engine oil getting crystallized. Therefore, the SAE10w part can be ignored for most of the users in our market.   

In conclusion, it is safe to say that the chart serves only as a reference for users which experience cold weather (4 seasons) or countries which has all long cold weather. Users who experience all round summer like us can use whatever engine oil in the market, as long as it is a minimum of SAE30, regardless of 0w, 5w, 10w, 15w or 20w.

It wouldn't any make sense if "10w30 can be used up to 40C". If an engine oil can only be used up to 40C, meaning by 120C, the engine oil has completely degraded on the very first crank of the engine.

All engine oil can withstand temperatures up to 120++, as that is the normal operating temperature of the engine.
Therefore, it is safe to assume that the engine oil chart doesn't represent which engine oil to use, but rather just a reference of the engine oil fluidity at a specific ambient temperature.

I agree...but remember API SL above... SM or latest SN

I know but the manual just say API SL above...so for sharing more grade suitable...i use  10w40 syntium 800 API SM can service after 10000km i think laaa...as my kelisa also 10000km service API SM haha....more save money

Regarding API ratings, it is only a general rule to govern the type of engine oil can be used for the consumer market. Normal consumer who isn't very knowledgeable about engine oil can always refer to API ratings when deciding which to choose for their car. The latest one is API SN, which was introduced not long ago. For engine oil with API SM onwards, there are slight revision, in which engine oil producer requires to add certain additives to protect the vehicle's catalytic converter (protects the environment at the same time).

All API rating engine oils are backward compatible, meaning SN can be used on a car requires API SJ or even SC, SD but not the opposite. A car which requires API SL onwards, means it can only take engine oil with rating of API SL, SM and SN.

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Added on June 21, 2012, 2:28 pm

syntium 800 is a semi synthetic oil and therefore not very recommended to stretch it till 10,000km. Chances are, the oil is already a 10w20 when it hits 7,000km. For the rest of 3,000km, the engine is actually receiving half the amount of protection and lubrication it needed.

As I mentioned earlier, it has got to do with Viscosity Index Improver.

I am very sure this isn't the first time you questioned someone about type of engine oil and its OCI and you have been shown tons of articles at the very first Exora Bold thread (which you subsequently ignore).

Your ignorance is not only contagious to the exora bold community, but seems to be spreading to preve community also.

Likewise, this discussion could only be continued if you manage to come to your clear sense.

Some result from provided link above

Synthetic vs. Mineral Oil

The only basic difference between synthetic oil and mineral oil, apart from its manufacture and origin, is the molecular and particulate structure of both the lubricants. Synthetic oil being a perfected product, has a very even and uniform structuring of molecules and particulates. On the other hand, mineral oil contains uneven and less uniform molecules as compared to synthetic oil. Now, when the car, engine, piston and piston block is new, it is always advisable to use, mineral oil. The uneven molecular structure of mineral oil makes the uneven surfaces of the components and auto parts rub with each other and erode, thus making the surface even and smooth . This is very useful, as the young components of the engine get into shape and adapt to the mechanism. As the engine grows older, the components, get into shape and start running swiftly without any friction. This is where one should start using synthetic oil. This oil basically keeps the engine in shape and helps in increasing the durability of the engine.

There are several other advantages and disadvantages of synthetic oils as well as mineral oils. Going into the details is pretty difficult and complex. The argument, about which is better, is almost as old as the time since they were found, and is getting more and more complex due to the advancements that are being integrated in lubrication.
By Scholasticus K
And this is what I get from this link  http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/1...nventional-oils

Service Life
A popular topic concerning the difference between mineral oils and synthetic lubricants is service life. Synthetic lubricants as a class don't show their age, particularly at high temperatures, and have a longer service life. [B]Often, the change interval is several times longer for synthetics at identical operating temperatures; however, the exact number depends on operating conditions, the additives and the specific synthetic used.

Synthetic lubricants have a lower friction coefficient in a gearbox, better film strength and a better relationship between viscosity and temperature (viscosity index, VI). This indicates synthetic lubricants can be used at lower viscosity grades and lower temperatures. When this is the case, the gap between the service lives of minerals and synthetics significantly increases.

Related to the oil change interval is the issue of product loss through evaporation and disposal. Both sludge and residue form more readily with mineral oil products. Evaporative losses are lower for synthetics due to the lack of lighter hydrocarbon structures. Disposal is more costly with some synthetics, but it is nowhere near enough to compensate for change-out intervals that are three to five times more frequent.

Anyway we are Exora bold owners .... rather than debating on something that may put us apart let focus on Exora related. We can still debate but pls don't be too strong unless we are really sure of that. I'm not the expert on the o engine oil technology but my knowledge build on my understanding after reading the original article from the WEB (including from the link in your post) my understanding from the article is 180' different from yours. So its not about the article but the way we understand the article 

This whole debate is getting pointless. My act of caring and sharing thought isn't appreciated but instead get accused of spreading lies. So much for a community which gathers to share info. You just continue use your Mach 5 la. Only time will prove who is right and wrong from now onwards.

Good to know that you are satisfied with your EB    To be frank i only have the issue of throttle response when the car start to move forward. Its kinda jerking at first but i don't think its a big issue anyway as all i do is apply the proper pressure on the pedal so voila, you are on the move.

the 2000rpm when turbo kicks in? haha

haven't got a chance to try becuz short distance ride so far. will try tomorrow going back my mum place (PJ -> Cheras)

Thanks for invitation but I'm not interested to lock in debate at this moment.... I would rather be in discussion, sharing and collaboration....  cheers.

May be a little bit of conclusion from me related to Syn Vs Mineral.... but I try to be nutral since I'm not the expert so I won't make any stand for others to follow.
Even the expert admitted that the argument about which is better is ........  so who am I to debate this matters with you.

To take the best and be on the save side (but of course an expensive proposal), use fully synt and change it every 5k km  .

btw, is the stock security system good enough? if not, what would you recommend?

Guys what do u guys think abT the EB seat, for short distance, its ok.. but for long journey, my buttock ache la... Too hard..