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 V1 Proton Exora Bold Owners and Fans Thread, Calling all owner and future one...

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SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 11 2012, 11:27 AM

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QUOTE(taqu @ Jun 9 2012, 07:34 PM)
Not all SCs have 10W-30 oils, hence why I use 5W-30 instead. On my 1000km service I even have to use 10W-40 bcoz that SC doesn't have 30-weight Petronas Syntiums.

As long as it doesn't void my warranty I'm fine with that. Perhaps I'll switch to Petronas Syntium 5000 0W-30 on my next service.
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I decided to have a look at the turbo diesel engine oil chart and strange enough, it says you can use 10W30 but you CAN NOT use 5W30 in our climate. This is contrary to both our understanding of engine oil.

Even though CFE is not diesel engine, you might still want to reconsider using 0W30. And since Proton had specifically said you can't use 0W30, you will void your warranty if you insist on 0W30. My 2 sen.

This post has been edited by Optiplex330: Jun 11 2012, 11:30 AM


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SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 11 2012, 11:39 AM

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QUOTE(wezeer @ Jun 11 2012, 11:33 AM)
to add to your analysis, might consider reading this
http://www.turbodynamics.co.uk/technical/u...gers/oil-facts/
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I just did and this sentence is saying, if 10w30 can be used, 05W30 can also. But this is not what Proton and some turbo diesel manufacturer are saying. Hence my confusion.

"Once an engine has reached its working temperature (if over 70°C) the SAE "W" rating has no effect on the engine."
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 11 2012, 12:23 PM

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QUOTE(wezeer @ Jun 11 2012, 11:49 AM)
i tend to more 'better wear protection' word on why they come out with 10w...
i got this from agpturbo site;

"If you have a standard bearing turbocharger: The loads produced on your standard bearing turbocharger’s rotating assembly require oils with high levels of ZDDP to adequately create a film between like metals. Standard bearing turbine shafts spin between bushings (bearings) and must have a constant film of oil in order for the components to survive. This is where choosing the right oil can make the difference. We have found that Brad Penn Grade 1 is one of the best and most cost effective oil out there. Other oils that we’ve found that contain the proper levels of ZDDP are Valvoline VR1 and VR1 Synthetic NSL, and Amsoil SAE Synthetic Premium Protection. We have also used Rotellla T6 synthetic oil with much success over the years.


Additionally, we advise using thicker viscosity in these brands of oil as the heat generated by high shaft speeds will break down thin 0W, 5W, and 10W oils and cause the oil to coke inside the turbo where oil temperatures can exceed 200 degrees F. Your standard bearing turbo will enjoy that you make the right choice. These are merely suggestions by us, because we have seen failures due to improper oil over the years. These types of oils may not contain the many of the detergents that most off the shelf oils have, thus you will need to change your oil more regularly than you’re used to. If you feel that the oils you run are sufficient, we would recommend having an oil analysis completed by Blackstone Labs."
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In my earlier post, I have my suspicion level of ZDDP may be a reason why Proton suggested API-SL (higher ZDDP) rating commonly found in 10W30. Whereas 5W30 commonly have API-SM rating (lower ZDDP). This statement seems to confirm my suspicion.

But I fail to agree with the lower statement because 0W oil are almost exclusively Fully Synthetic and these are SUPPOSED to be more resistant to breaking down than Mineral (10W)

SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 11 2012, 02:47 PM

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QUOTE(taqu @ Jun 11 2012, 02:10 PM)
Anyone writing email to Proton on this matter? If they say 5W-30 & 0W-30 are NO NO, I can opt for Petronas Syntium 0W-40, whose viscosity sits between 10W-30 and 10W-40.

I thought modern turbo engines no longer require ZDDP level as much as older turbo engines do. And I don't think those thin synthetic engine oils easily break down for turbo applications.
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I would advise against 0W40. My reasoning are:

1. Assuming oil break down is an issue, then 0W40 viscosity range is even wider than 0W30 so will run even higher risk of oil breaking down than 0W30

2. I believe Proton is saying, don't use any 0W or 5W oil. Period. Your 0W40 would be one of them.

My 2 sen.




SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 11 2012, 03:53 PM

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QUOTE(azlan83 @ Jun 11 2012, 03:17 PM)
ask icare about the chasis no...if confirm reseave for you then your car is nearby to get
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If you wanted a Bold fast, call up those small town Proton dealer who may have ready stock.


SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 11 2012, 05:33 PM

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CFE/CVT combination too noisy for town driving. Much worst than normal AT. Only shine on highway high speed driving.

SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 11 2012, 11:06 PM

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QUOTE(taqu @ Jun 9 2012, 07:15 PM)
Here's what I found from Petronas:

Syntium 800 SL 10W-30
Viscosity at 40 °C  74.1
Viscosity 100 °C  11.2
Mineral Mach-5 10W30
Viscosity at 40 °C 73
Viscosity 100 °C 11.2

Why pay more for the Syntium?
http://www.mymesra.com.my/?ch=mm_2011&pg=p...pl=2011_article

SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 11 2012, 11:10 PM

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QUOTE(neo1point3 @ Jun 11 2012, 10:26 PM)
Yeap the cvt is noisy when accelerate and stop at traffic jam...but not a big problem
I'm more concern about the oil control valve, malu when ppl ask why can choke like that when idle
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When coming to red traffic light, the sound is like a toy mechanical/electric car slowing down. Very obvious.

SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 12 2012, 10:58 AM

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QUOTE(doctor.AGF @ Jun 11 2012, 11:39 PM)
Hi everyone,
Anybody experiencing their EB pulling to the left side and having to slightly tilt the steering 10 degrees to the right in order to maintain straight driving?
please let me know

Thanks
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Same. But on level straight road, let your hands go and the car go straight.


SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 12 2012, 01:35 PM

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QUOTE(azlan83 @ Jun 12 2012, 12:35 PM)
this sound come from cvt..as cvt will adjust the gear with the speed...or maybe the engine braking is automatically turn on...i suggest to ask krisof on proton cvt thread at autoworld forum...for me its ok i get use to it.
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Or just turn up the radio volume.
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 12 2012, 02:25 PM

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QUOTE(azlan83 @ Jun 12 2012, 02:15 PM)
Last week go back to hometown kelantan...alhamdullilah no problem at all
from going to hometown and return back to JB...my car full load with all shopping goods from Thailand and Kelantan...the fuel consumption during going back its ok...as i maintain speed...but on return the fuel consumption high as full load and i speed at LPT Phase 2...at 170km/h i notice the fuel get real calculation go to 18l/100km haha...when reach gambang...distance to empty below 200km with 2 bar...

i also notice the car getting lighter and smooth when odometer over 3000km...cheers
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May I ask, from JB to Kelantan:
1. How many kilometer the entire journey?
2. How long does it takes?
3. How's the road condition?
4. Any interesting things to do/see/eat etc?

SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 12 2012, 03:34 PM

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QUOTE(azlan83 @ Jun 12 2012, 02:51 PM)
from jb to kelantan...700km until tanah merah...

i took 10hour with stop...actually u can make 8 hour

road condition ok...but the problem road from (kuantan)jabor to bukit besi(lpt phase2)

sorry i using the fastest road...so no interesting thing
along the way. but if like sight seeing...use this road

jb-mersing-pekan-kuantan-kemaman-dungun-kuala terengganu-besut-pasir putih-kota bharu

a lot of thing...keropok at marang...beaches at kuantan...pasir putih...at kelantan can shopping at pengkalan kubur...rantau panjang...sg golok...can eat ikan bakar at kuantan...or you can go to kapas island...
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Many thanks.

For driving holiday, which would you recommend.
Drive from JB - Kuantan - Kuala Trengganu - Kota Baru
KL - Penang - Kota Baru - Kuantan - KL.

SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 12 2012, 03:37 PM

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QUOTE(V12Kompressor @ Jun 12 2012, 03:23 PM)
The Xtronic CVT are much more refined CVT than the Punch VT2/VT3/VT4 CVT. Not to mention the Xtronic actually has even lesser moving parts than the VT series CVT. It might have the noise but since it is a much refine unit, it could be even quieter or completely being muffled by Nissan.
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So does that means Xtronic CVT would be more reliable than VT3? Does the Xtronic uses wet clutch and hence increased fuel consumption?

SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 12 2012, 04:11 PM

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QUOTE(V12Kompressor @ Jun 12 2012, 04:09 PM)
yes, the Xtronic CVT is more reliable since it has lesser moving parts. It doesn't use any clutch, it uses torque converter. Slightly higher power loss compared to clutch base CVT, but more durable. smile.gif
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How's Toyota and Honda's CVT in comparison with Punch's.

SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 12 2012, 10:09 PM

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Damn. Think I got knocking sound somewhere near the front airbag dashboard when going over rough ground.

SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 13 2012, 12:28 AM

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QUOTE(V12Kompressor @ Jun 12 2012, 04:23 PM)
the Punch CVT actually has a lifespan of 200,000km on paper. And don't worry, every parts inside is replaceable and the CVT itself is serviceable. In fact, Punch has the intention to set up a hub in Malaysia to solve/troubleshoot/fix the CVT sold by Proton. So if your belt snaps, you don't need to change whole CVT. Just replace the belt. biggrin.gif

Oh, and just to add, the CVT has been reported to be tested to up to 250,000km by Proton engineers during the Preve development period.  smile.gif
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Punch uses wet clutch. Does this wet clutch wears out similar to the clutch in manual transmission?

SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 13 2012, 12:42 AM

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QUOTE(V12Kompressor @ Jun 13 2012, 12:39 AM)
yes. due to constant engagement and disengagement, it will cause wear and tear like normal clutch also. Only the durability is longer than normal clutch since it is lubricated (wet).

OMG, why suddenly I became Kristof sleep.gif
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If that is the case, then it would not be advisable to keep it in "D" for too long because wet clutch is partly engaged. And apply more throttle when going uphill instead of creeping. Correct?

SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 13 2012, 12:50 AM

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QUOTE(V12Kompressor @ Jun 13 2012, 12:46 AM)
Yup for both. When idling, push it to N, especially during stopping on an uphill. If you notice closely, on N, the rpm will be higher than on D. According to kristof, this is due to the engine is running some sort of pump which aids cooling of the CVT. In fact, on uphill, if you dint apply any throttle at all, the car will jerk, lurched a bit and then vibrates a little as if macam mau mati engine. I always play that with my Saga... XD
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Yes, I have noticed that and put into N because of that at traffic light. Logic tells me that, if something is causing the rpm to go down, then there must be stress somewhere and stress can't be good.

This post has been edited by Optiplex330: Jun 13 2012, 12:52 AM
SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 13 2012, 06:40 AM

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QUOTE(zaidi @ Jun 13 2012, 02:43 AM)
it's bad practise to put engine to D and apply brake at traffic light. just put it to N & brake.

btw add me to waiting list. cocoa-grey. been in waiting list since april, but no rush smile.gif
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From a 'wear & tear' point of view, I see no reason to do that. In normal AT. Putting it in "D" cause no increased wear because there are no clutch. Instead, constant shifting between D and N as you suggest will increase wear & tear as proven by the jerk when you do so every time.

But of course, from a safety point of view, I suppose you are right.


SUSOptiplex330
post Jun 13 2012, 10:18 AM

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QUOTE(ultramaman @ Jun 13 2012, 07:39 AM)
in normal at, but in our eb ?
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AFAIK, the best thing to remember is, just treat your EB more like a Manual Transmission. For example:
1. At idling, we do not want to put into gear and partially lift up the clutch. That is bad because it cause excessive clutch wear. With EB, just don't put it in D for too long at idle.

2. Going uphill. Likewise, we do not want to 'ride' a manual transmission for more power going uphill, instead increase throttle for more power instead. With EB, don't creep (this is akin to riding the MT) and instead, increase throttle.

Correct me if I am wrong.





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