Congratulations on the new thread Long live r3apers!

Spent a little fortune to get these electric sensor gauge , tested and found its.... over sensitive on the reading , whilst lag in response . Refer below video for more information.



Now, my analog dial gauge is on the floor as my left foot rest. Awaiting any FLX user to allow me to test on their ride(WITHOUT CUTTING ANY WIRE/HOSE). I'll take current from the cig lighter and hook the T-connecting hose from your brake servo vacuum via your driver side window and put it on your dashboard.

If still under warranty, go back komplen Plotong, get them to change a new steering. If not, go to accessories shop tell them this issue. They'll take out your steering wheel and apply grease on the horn contact point + signal bracket. If DIY, its F.O.C(besides of buying the grease, which you can use it in the future for other stuff). If my kampong servis cas is RM2. Not sure about other places though.

Hope this help

Bcoz I'm buzzing. When I see -0.2bar, then my mouth start to "teet" Anyway, no more electric sensor gauge for me in the future! Meanwhile, for the steering full spin/half way spin regardless, it shouldn't make any screeching sound So, just go and troll the SC people and bark at them 9 9 and hope they change a new steering for you. Pay so damn much for the damn car, might as well use their service to the full, claim their warranty 9 9.

I tot he said he heard from the steering wheel

What gauge is there at the lower left of steering console? Seldom square guage wor.

Had to agree some of the point, but still...think its too much to disagree when looks is subjective? What about MyBi? Still a hothatch for less than 50k. It looks like a turtle to me. Add to the fact, when they "turtled", they looked damn turtle! But I have no problem with that, because somebody likes their MyBi and that's their right to say its pretty. The look of the car does subject to one acceptance level. If you don't like, be it a Ferrari you'll still bash it and trash it.

... thank God they survive. Must rest if tired!

tyre dog, 1 of the must have(but too expansive )

You gotta leave some time for the brake pad to grind in with the disk brakes, so as the shoes at the back drum brakes to grind in with the drum. 15" wheels does make a little different to the brakes as compare to normal 14" SAGAs. Those brakes are made sufficient for 13",14" wheels, I'm using 15" wheels now and I can really feel the difference compare to previous stock 13" steel rims.

However, just patiently drive this 1000km and wait for the 1st service. Its better to let your children to run in this 1000km for you. After this then only you try the brake again before service! You'll probably feel the difference between a new disc VS a 1000km seasoned disc. If all that does not satisfy you, you may get the SC to check on your brake line see whether 'bubbled". If yes they'll proceed to release air and top up some brake fluid for you to ensure all 4 brake lines are running at optimal instead of sending bubble to the brakes

Ada spring 2 batang dalam shiftstick. 1 tarek kiri, 1 lagi tarek kanan. Kalu macam hang punya, sama ngan gua punya, yg kira dah patah. Masuk gear 1 & 2 rasa longgar, gear 3 & gear 4 selalu miss. Pi Plotong tuka, khabarnya beberapa ringgit je, tak sampei 10 pon.

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Added on May 20, 2012, 9:36 amTry to refill your tank before 200km up on the trip meter. Do that every time so you get faster fuelly reading. Another advantage is, given less room for the fuel inside the tank to wash around, it reduces the rate of evaporation(NOT SCIENTIFICALLY TESTED, but it helps me to get 0.5km/litre so far). Drive slow does not mean save petrol, but pickup slow does help. CVT doesn't do free rolling, far far see traffic light then let the car roll doesn't work because the engine brake would have stop your car before you reach the traffic light. Just brake like usual, drive like usual. Pickup slow and drive smoothly, you'll get to see wonders

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Added on May 20, 2012, 9:58 amBest to keep your original windscreen if it's repairable.

“After a windshield has been replaced, there is no reliable test to determine if the replacement
was done properly and safely” Leo Cyr, Vice President - National Glass Association, Auto Glass Division USA

Prices as below:
Normal laminated <RM200
Tempered laminated <300
Moulding seal RM80
Glue RM25 x 2
Labor charge, please negotiate by yourself. Normally around RM50 if all stocks you bought from them.

This post has been edited by davidke20: May 20 2012, 09:58 AM

Bt the way, remove your 1st fuelly for the empty tank whilst you receive your car with empty tank, you'll get a 99.999% accurate reading instead. it doesn't make sense for 12km for 29litres of petrol. Your car is fairly good FC if you remove that 1st column.

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Added on May 20, 2012, 11:52 amNow no more go Yau Yip la, in in out out puchong kl thats why left 240km/tank la izit?

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Added on May 20, 2012, 12:01 pmBy the way r3apers TS, FotoFuÇket is down. Please consider reupload to other image host. I don't take commission, but I normally use Image Shack



This post has been edited by davidke20: May 20 2012, 12:03 PM

All 4 doors were tight no screw driver mark at all. I screw out the last door I checked, there is blue paint on the thread, which marked to jam the nut May be it was done by the previous owner

Bcoz your "averaged" is absurd compare to your regular mileage/litre. Therefore I suspect your 1st fill up kacau. Air con should remain minimal, as we found out everytime when aircon compressor kicks in, atleast 30% of the torque went support the air conditioning. Now I understand why TINT can help to save fuel Everytime kan we see advertisement from suratkhabar saying their tint helps to INCREASE HORSE POWER & SAVE PETROL?

Fog lamp + airduct cover + mounting for BLM @ RM120, not sure whether its cheap. Will be visiting supplier during school holiday.

For normal square(think u mean rectangular HELLA style), not sure abt price. It WAS 25bucks a decade ago. Will have to visit the bugger & check out the price.

Kenji, if u know the price, pls also provide your input. I don't know whether imy price is reasonable as I only get my supply from the same fella all the time.

Square... Sure got, but you'll be cursing initial D since AE86 uses that, so the price got fried until skyhigh ady. May be the bugger will give me a slightly "NORMAL" price for a square foglamp, which all GOROLLA bugger dying to own 1. Not sure abt the price now, SMS u when I get the juice.

I have no warranty. Call me a jerk, but my finding as below:

1) Got my car with screeching brake noise from the back. It consistently behave like this every now and then. As long as the car stationary for more than 2 hours, then the sound appear. Bring the car out, did several side brake drift, now its gone(so does my tyres )

2) After I got rid of the brake screeching sound, another annoying weird sound appeared like something knocking back/forth when I hit/release brake hard, especially during cold start in the morning/late evening. I practice left foot braking(learn from Initial D Knight Kids Civic) to grind my brake pads, and it doesn't help much. Whenever its cold, the annoying sound came back. I drove to my mech ask him to release handbrake tension, now I no longer hear the brake sound anymore, but hand brake tarak makan anymore, need to pull atleast 5 tick to secure the car.

According to my mech, the handbrake cable is toooooooo damn loose(design problem). If tighten to normal handbrake angle, such as 2 ticks full stop, then the brake cylinder will be in tension even the brake is released. This is the cause of the screeching sound. Another problem is, since the brake cylinder in tension, after the brake pads grinds in well, the gab between the drum and the shoe is widen. Whenever brake/release can hear the cylinder pull back hard since the brakes is in tension.

Reason we advise people to claim is, since covered by warranty, might as well claim. If after warranty, will you still change brake pad every 3 months? I don't think so. If you really can't stand it, just let loose your handbrake a little bit. That should be fine already. By the way, found drum brake sets for RM45 at SOLO MOTOR in Sri Kembangan + RM10 labor charge at tyre shop across the street.

This post has been edited by davidke20: May 20 2012, 11:59 PM

Engage 2nd gear release clutch, whilst driving about 30km/h, semi jam the brake and rev up continue driving. Any problem with that?

Abang SiuYi, I just realized how serious you wanted the foglamp for brightening issues I had to agree with shorty & V12k that cheap lamps will do you no good. The 1st reason is, regardless its a H3 or H7, the light coverage are limited to 3 feet radius due to bad reflection. The brightness is scattered everywhere and it affect opposite direction vehicle's vision. If u adjust it downward, visibility will be even nearer than 3 ft(might as well dun pasang).

2nd reason is, high power/HID bulb generate high heat, cikai fog lamp can't stand the heat. Either u melt it or it gets dried & crack, so u can use it as aquarium. Normally cheap fog lamps I will apply epoxy to seal off the damn thing, then use low watt yellow bulb to project close range vision, this serve the purpose of anti fog vision. Been doing this to my previous WIRA, KE20, 328, Gancil 660, soon my BLM.

Ultimate solution for your iswaga, I got myself a pair of LMST headlights for RM230/pair. Cut 1 wire for the parking lamp only.

Auto gear stuck at P to engage clutch brake. If you're at slope, great chance u spoil the clutch, and if it spoilt, you may find our car across the street, or worse if u @ Bt Ferringhi. Henbrek is utilize rubber to "giap" the metal, inorder to stop vehicle from moving,lease harm can do to the car. Even if u pull the car by force, the most it harm your tyre but that's it. So, don't try silly thing by apply "P" without henbrek

The problem I encounter is NOT a case to case issue. Henbrek cable came in massive production, the designed is slightly over length(or the mounting of cable end not at the right place). To overcome this, redesign the cable/remount to the correct length. Will Plotong correct this in the long run? I don't think so. Their engineer rather keep their job to admit this tiny overlooked ERROR. Heard the brake cable actually share with PERSOGA also but no problem with PERSOGA bcoz the length is correct. To customize a correct length cable will cost a bomb for any end user like u & me. Go ask those people who modify EG6 rear disc brake to ISWAGA, they have the exact same problem as us.

Previously I was so convinced with the brake pad issue, until my mech open up the drum found there are still very thick rubber in it, only we decided to release henbrek tension. Was originally thinking of add washer ring to the cable mounting to cheat a correct length, but thinking of after awhile when the brakepad makan nipis ady, the washer become loose & dancing, the metal rattling noise would make thing worse For now, just go back to my mech & adjust henbrake, that will be next time when the brake start to make noise again

On the side note, I think the brake thing really has to do with the driver. Numbnuts like me that always emergency brake tend to had it. Meanwhile, my colleague drove a FLX SE like makcik go pasar also kena but the uncle at canteen driving a BLM like a lorry jual nasi lemak have no problem with his brake so far 4 years now, 2nd set of brakepad. NEVER service at Plotong since new car. What can I say? If yong suey, be it Honga Aggord also got problem geh

Partly agree wt u, but 1 must bear in mind, Plotong car has the HAIEST servis rekod in the world, partly bcoz its cheap to repair! According to my mech, even new car before warranty habis people ady send in to put neon lamp la, change head unit(sound sistem), change cikai steering wheel, put tweeter etc etc

The problem is, u r advise to change the metal clip everytime u pull out the prrrastic parts! How many of us did this? Prolly 0, may be 1 in a million bcoz the clip snapped whilst pulling out. 1 must understand the metal clip is made to deaden the mounting for both d|ck & pu$$y side, once got in cannot come out. After pull out, either the prastic kena sliced by the metal clip, or the metal clip kena kapit, reassemble a loosen clip will result in massive rattling noise! This is the major culprit causes all the unwanted "techno beat" in car.

My 16 years old WIGA A/B went through a thorough "pest control" project 2 years ago, when my sifu dismentle every single prrastic cover in the car, had them replaced with brand new clips, all the mice & hemster got away immediately! Came with a crazy bill of RM96! 48pcs metal clips * RM2/pc. That was 1 expansive experience and came with great discount when I troubleshoot my ISWAGA. I use trashbin prasstic to wrap the plastic mounting, heat it up with lighter so it melt on the surface, re-expand the old clip, force it back to the plastic mounting before I plug them back on the car. Result is, as good as NEW Total costing as below:

1.5 x black trash bin bag
2 x Aladdin lighter
2 days weekend labor
1 scratch mark on my finger + some blood

All in all, every car has the potential to develope mouse squeeky noise in the car, matter of how 1 handle it, or whether change metal clip after dismentle. Believe it or not, after your 1st aircon servis, there comes the rattling sound from glove compartment. After replace the snapped shiftstick tensioner(gear spring we call), then the whole gear/henbrek/radio console start to make noise.

Never ask your profession tim can partner ka? I also drive GAGA geh

TT on school holiday, really pain in the butt la might not cum