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 PROTON SAGA BLM, FL, FLX CLUB V23 - Dead or Alive!

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davidke20
post Jun 8 2012, 08:37 PM

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QUOTE(huzaifa136 @ Jun 8 2012, 05:20 PM)
now my hands itching to be put into the list  tongue.gif
wait till reach 5 person

for front strut already hv good feedback from +Newbie+
how about rear 3 point strut?
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Ulta Lacing got full graphic explanation.

p/s: For the front & rear strut bars, if any of you seen me put a UR bar for my ride, the only reason will be this
user posted image
Look at those strut towers are well maintain brows.gif Reminds me of a slogan "Nice to see, nice to hold, once bengkoked/kemeked, consider sold". Bengkok is for the bars, kemek is for the... brows.gif nevermind la.

However, I have plans to hook up the tofu rack,room bar for the little GaGa in the future. If 3MAX still doesn't cum out with those product, then most probably I have no choice but to go for UR.

This post has been edited by davidke20: Jun 8 2012, 08:47 PM
davidke20
post Jun 9 2012, 01:30 AM

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QUOTE(dares @ Jun 8 2012, 11:11 PM)
3Max 4-point front strut bar
Bulk price RM135 (original RM150) - Minimum order for bulk price = 5 orders

1. dares
2. davidke20
3.
4.
5.

3Max 3-point rear strut bar
Bulk price RM120 (original RM130) - Minimum order for bulk price = 5 orders

1. davidke20
2.
3.
4.
5.

If more than 3 orders for both front and rear struts, total will be RM250
Bulk closing date - 15 June 2012.

refer to spoiler for the front strut bar installed in SiuYi's car (sorry SiuYi pls dun mind ph34r.gif)

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «



Added on June 8, 2012, 11:14 pm
It is wrap around oil filter that is underneath the engine, you need to jack the car up or bend over and peek into the undercarriage.

Beware while you do that David may suddenly appear and wax your butt ph34r.gif
Pasang aje lah  brows.gif  brows.gif
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The bars itself are hard, but not to the extend to total loss your car when its being hit. If the force that transferred from 1 side of the bar to the other side can cause the car total loss, that accident itself DID total loss the car with/without the bars.
user posted image
user posted image
user posted image
Sauce from here


I don't simply wipe people's butt. However, if you got scratch mark on your car's butt and needed some turtle wax, you may drop by Jln Ipoh during weekdays, may be I can help you to wipe your butt clean and see whether can make it smooth again for your girlfriend.

To see the oil filter, just go infront of your car, duck and you'll see its located underneath slightly behind the driver sides headlamp area.
davidke20
post Jun 9 2012, 08:55 AM

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QUOTE(dares @ Jun 9 2012, 01:55 AM)
Read about ARB for torsion beam setup

http://autospeed.com/cms/A_112587/article.html

http://autospeed.com/cms/A_112588/article.html


Added on June 9, 2012, 2:45 amMore to read, benefits of the front tower struts:

http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/STB/what_is_a_bar.html

This link below deals with the maths behind the tower struts, just ignore the formulas.

http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/STB/what_is_a_bar_more.html
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QUOTE(drexchan @ Jun 2 2012, 01:16 AM)
user posted image
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Buy UR!!!


Added on June 9, 2012, 8:56 am
QUOTE(mieza @ Jun 9 2012, 08:48 AM)
After long time not coming here got bulk order already biggrin.gif ahaha I need this for my cornering skill. Kindly add me for 3Max 4-point front strut bar.. Btw who .going to install this..??? I dunno to DIY..
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Mai brows.gif pakcik David kasi menginstallkan

This post has been edited by davidke20: Jun 9 2012, 08:56 AM
davidke20
post Jun 9 2012, 11:10 AM

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QUOTE(dares @ Jun 9 2012, 10:53 AM)
The articles are pretty neutral on the pros and cons of an additional ARB to the torsion beam suspension.

My 2 sen la:

rear ARB has it's effects, if setup correctly. I am more worried about the long term damage it may cause to the torsion beam and trailing arms.

The stiffer the ARB setup, the more likely it will damage your torsion beam suspension. So it's a tradeoff.
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The 10% different of the strength between spring & ARB is crusial. If the ARB too hard, it will definitely hurt your strut.
davidke20
post Jun 9 2012, 03:43 PM

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QUOTE(dares @ Jun 9 2012, 03:00 PM)
We buy 3Max, oni get mahihi  sad.gif  sad.gif

No need stop, just press SAT. In fact I used SAT to downshift when going highspeed = quick way to make RPM jump up without using L...
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ahem...
user posted image

QUOTE(iXora.ix @ Jun 9 2012, 03:03 PM)
so let say when i saw reapers or david.. i wanted to race with them.. i just press the SAT so it will automatic change?

same as well as L ?
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Whilst you're searching for your SAT button, I probably calling my claims department getting ready for a new rear bumper jor nod.gif I don't race anymore, but I like to deal with my brakes(if you know what I mean) icon_rolleyes.gif Go race r3apers please, you kacau me also no use.
davidke20
post Jun 9 2012, 03:54 PM

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QUOTE(dares @ Jun 9 2012, 03:48 PM)
Previous TT at Sri Petaling on the way back, dunno siaper main ngan another BLM, Maivee and Perdana  whistling.gif  whistling.gif Then just recently dunno who kena eaten alive by a 4G93T  whistling.gif  whistling.gif
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Now canot ady blink.gif Very noisy, forced to save petrol nowadays blink.gif


davidke20
post Jun 9 2012, 06:46 PM

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QUOTE(dares @ Jun 9 2012, 05:54 PM)
BTW, test drove the Prius C just now.

Wondering, where did the 169Nm of torque go??  blink.gif  blink.gif
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Torque defined as a quantity that tends to cause rotational acceleration in an object and that:

Ï„=Fâ‹…d


where d is the distance from the center of rotation.

High torque doesn't mean the car is fast or great acceleration, it simply means it can AFFORD to move. Pure speed/acceleration burns down to HORSE POWER(how much AFM you pour into the combustion chamber). More reference at here and here.

A video that explain trillion words.


This post has been edited by davidke20: Jun 9 2012, 06:49 PM
davidke20
post Jun 9 2012, 07:24 PM

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QUOTE(dares @ Jun 9 2012, 07:08 PM)
blink.gif  blink.gif

More torque means more force to accelerate your car ma. Even if you take that T=Fd formula, if d is fixed, that means more torque = more force = stronger acceleration.

In the video, the VW with NOS had comparable torque with the other car, but loss at max speed because it has low horsepower. Diesel summore  doh.gif

So in theory, 169Nm should translate to stronger acceleration, summore it is it's 169 NM on the electric motor alone, which means that it is a flat torque curve at 169Nm all the way....  sweat.gif  sweat.gif

Correct me if I am wrong, though.
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The video trying to tell you diesel lagged in picking up speed, not top speed.

Don't know how to explain. Get yourself in a very powerful D-MAX 3.0, rev up and drive. It's even slower than your Gaga. They don't lose their top speed either, it just take longer time to reach there(your petrol powered speed).

Even for the electric motor, you slam on the accelerator, the wheel hasn't been moving will take > torque to START spinning, as the momentum picks up, < power needed to START, but more to continue spin it faster. How much torque does a torque monster truck has? TOO MUCH. Speed? Nah...
davidke20
post Jun 9 2012, 07:24 PM

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QUOTE(dares @ Jun 9 2012, 07:08 PM)
blink.gif  blink.gif

More torque means more force to accelerate your car ma. Even if you take that T=Fd formula, if d is fixed, that means more torque = more force = stronger acceleration.

In the video, the VW with NOS had comparable torque with the other car, but loss at max speed because it has low horsepower. Diesel summore  doh.gif

So in theory, 169Nm should translate to stronger acceleration, summore it is it's 169 NM on the electric motor alone, which means that it is a flat torque curve at 169Nm all the way....  sweat.gif  sweat.gif

Correct me if I am wrong, though.
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The video trying to tell you diesel lagged in picking up speed, not top speed.

Don't know how to explain. Get yourself in a very powerful D-MAX 3.0, rev up and drive. It's even slower than your Gaga. They don't lose their top speed either, it just take longer time to reach there(your petrol powered speed).

Even for the electric motor, you slam on the accelerator, the wheel hasn't been moving will take > torque to START spinning, as the momentum picks up, < power needed to START, but more to continue spin it faster. How much torque does a torque monster truck has? TOO MUCH. Speed? Nah...
davidke20
post Jun 9 2012, 09:44 PM

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QUOTE(pallmall @ Jun 9 2012, 07:58 PM)
either blm/flx or w/e model does rear strut bar cant be installed on saga?
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me england no understand yours. bahasa please.

by the way, ma BLM now smells like a durian cake shakehead.gif
davidke20
post Jun 9 2012, 10:28 PM

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QUOTE(dares @ Jun 9 2012, 09:43 PM)
For the electric motor, when I floor the pedal the electric motor have to be generating 169Nm of torque. It is the same 169Nm when starting from a standstill, and it's the same 169Nm accelerating the car from a rolling start. Of course, from standstill a large amount of torque is used to overcome the static inertia of the car so that's fair enough. But when accelerating from a rolling start, flooring the pedal doesn't give me the feeling that there is 169Nm of torque pushing the car.

I press my Gaga to 4k RPM where there's 150Nm of torque, I know what that acceleration feels like. The Prius C does not feel like that, in fact it feels lazy. I am guessing the fault lies with the drive-by-wire system that regulates the electric motor power output.


Added on June 9, 2012, 9:43 pm

what is w/e?
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I'm really out of word to explain. When you have a chance, try a WIRA 2.0D 4D68 engine and compare it with a 4G63 SOHC in a Perdana SEi, you'll get a bigger picture. I guess the same theory apply to electric motor as well. Its not about the power output, its the power train matches the tranny, provided the amount of RPM we rev it that time. A good read for you to understand more between diesel VS petrol.

QUOTE(lhwj @ Jun 9 2012, 10:18 PM)
Was it in Eco mode or something? hmm.gif

And you haven't reported on your proper Lagi Best Lagi Power test drive yet brows.gif
I think he meant Standard / Executive.

You know what, all that talk about the strut bar has gotten really interested, and with Newbie's experience, can I have a front one please thumbup.gif
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He reported jor la, thats sometime ago. He left his FLX SE damn far away so he won't get suspected by the SA mar. Bulk order! Wohoo!
davidke20
post Jun 10 2012, 12:21 AM

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QUOTE(dares @ Jun 9 2012, 11:50 PM)
Quote from one of the Chassis foam suppliers:
Sos
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KL Auto ar?! May be worthwhile to try on my ISWAGA, but then hor... if do the whole car the price will be exactly the market value of the damn car. May be RM2000 blink.gif
davidke20
post Jun 10 2012, 01:04 AM

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QUOTE(+Newbie+ @ Jun 10 2012, 12:52 AM)
Eh, I better disclaimer first.

Please bear in mind that my Saga is a BLM and not an FLX which would have stiffer suspensions and thicker rear anti roll bar. So if you don't get the same results I do, don't blame me yeah.  sweat.gif  sweat.gif

I imagine the FLX with those upgrades would have less potential for improvement.
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Luke driving BLM SE lar laugh.gif


Added on June 10, 2012, 1:08 am
QUOTE(dares @ Jun 10 2012, 01:04 AM)
FLX mane ade rear antiroll bar....torsion beam ade satu, same saiz ngan BLM dan FL. but front ARB is thicker lar.

My thinking is, since FLX springs are stiffer than BLM, is it conceivable that the strut towers actually experiences more stress? (the springs compress less, so more load is transferred to the strut tower). However, the thicker front ARB may have reduced the load. Interesting  hmm.gif  hmm.gif
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How can ARB reduce load blink.gif it transfer the load to the other side of the strut.

This post has been edited by davidke20: Jun 10 2012, 01:08 AM
davidke20
post Jun 10 2012, 01:23 PM

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QUOTE(zamanjaafar @ Jun 10 2012, 11:50 AM)
mine is a new car so dont know how the fuel meter behaves

after the last bar is empty on the meter, how long/far before the fuel warning indicator light up or blinks?
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Out of all the gauges, fuel level gauge is 1 of the most unpredictable gauge. It's float weight NOT calibrated, some car lighter, some heavier. My case is heavy, tend to give me illusion of petrol saving. When car is travelling, my fuel gauge doesn't go down. My 1st bar normally can last up to 80km before it lesap. After I stop my engine, the float settled then it become 1 bar less.

Some lighter float like dares case, up hill, hilang 1 bar, downhill 1 bar extra, go flat road, back to normal again.

Really can't tell how many km before the alert indicator lite up.
davidke20
post Jun 10 2012, 05:16 PM

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GRexer from adjustable background, any stock setup is comfortable for him laugh.gif

Meanwhile, try to get use to DbW bro. That's the only thing that make you FEELL the car is weak, but its not when you have a same capacity vehicle doing 0-60mph pull side by side.
davidke20
post Jun 10 2012, 05:41 PM

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QUOTE(reeve-826 @ Jun 10 2012, 05:13 PM)
i heard that proton saga face alot of problem at passed. Isn't now still face problem for saga FLX 1.3 auto? Proton saga flx owner,do ur guy recommend to buy Saga FLX or myvi 1.3auto?

your comment will be appreciate, thank you =D
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Dares got the point there la. For us here in GaGa thread, GaGa is eberything. Drive GaGa, sleep GaGa, eat GaGa, think GaGa, play GaGa, weekend family time also go petrol station wash GaGa. If you took also consideration mentioned by Dares, such as 50 bijik durian boot space, slightly more petrol consumption, lower price compare to MyBi, longer car also means harder to park. Generally GaGa is in house design, the same chassis since BLM until now FLX SE, basically the well known PROTON(Powerwindoe Rosak Oh Tidak Oh No) has been iron out. Provided 10 years warranty! What else do we expect?

In the end, its your buy, you call it. Go test drive the LBLP and a GaGa CVT, try it 9 9 until you satisfy then only decide which 1 to buy. We here talk so much also no use nod.gif
davidke20
post Jun 10 2012, 06:06 PM

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2nd floor: GaGa laugh.gif
davidke20
post Jun 11 2012, 01:04 AM

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QUOTE(GRexer @ Jun 10 2012, 10:38 PM)
Hm.. I see a lot of persons complaining about the lower profile tyres in FLX SE making the ride harsher, but how many persons actually made a back to back comparison with a stock standard 1.3 shod with the 14" wheels? There is a difference when my car is shod with 50 or 55 series, but that's just because I have a fully stiffened chassis and runs on high spring rate adjustables.
Seriously, both the 1.3 FLX Executive and 1.6 FLX SE felt the same to me in terms of comfort levels, good enough for daily driving, I have this feeling everytime I ride in or drive someone else's car, but I always have that grin/smirk back on my face as soon as I step back into the driver's seat of any one of my cars.

As for the DBW, I think I'm really not used to the lag in throttle response after the initial input, really does get some getting used to, definitely will need to get a dbw throttle controller if I decide to proceed with the Saga FLX as a daily driver.
Maybe my comfort level is different from others, I actually felt a Merc E200 Kompressor "floaty" on normal roads, no doubt, it's comfy.
AFAIK, this RM2k discount is standard over any Proton Edar official branch, not sure if it's available at dealers, it's easy to identify branches, they have every single car for test drive, most dealers only have the latest model or hottest selling model.
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QUOTE(GRexer @ Jun 10 2012, 10:54 PM)
I never had the intention of getting the manual, took one of my salesmen's Saga FLX manual out for a spin before, I was over-revving every shifts due to exactly this nature.

Can't blame me, I'm a poor dude that has only manual transmissioned cars on cable throttle. doh.gif Definitely gonna miss the response whenever I sit in a newer DbW car.
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As far as I understand, you're the exact same of my kind before I own a BLM. I was all the way racing carburetor and LSD gear oil injected absorber kinda guy. If you haven't been driving and soft legs car for long time, FLX, be it FLX SE is all comfortable for you, regardless tyre 50/55 series. However. my case is slightly different. Before I sold off my WIRA1.6, I already bought the BLM. Few of the comparison and might be your advice in the future:

1) I did 160kmh on MEX with my WIRA, RPM was never too high, car is always steady even the big corner after Sri Kembangan R&R towards KLIA. But even if I did 140kmh in my BLM for the same corner, it felt like the car is going to turtle anytime. The amount of bodyroll is up the an extend of unbearable.

2) I've changed to 15" wheels after a month, and figured 55 series on a BLM doesn't work well. Sangkut fender very often. However, I compare my car with other people's 15" 50 series tyre, mine is more comfortable. Less harsh compare to the 50 series. FLX doesn't have any problem so far with 50/55 series tyre because of the stiffer spring, less free play for the tyre to hit the fender. Heard FLX SE's spring even harder as the car originally fixed with a 15" wheels, most probably Plotong already figured the soft spring is going to create more trouble in the future, and therefore they change to a stiffer spring. I've also test ride/drive a few FLX SE and found they indeed much stiffer than a BLM/FL. However, I couldn't feel much difference between an FLX with FLX SE. The only difference I can tell is the tyre. 14" 60 tyres on FLX, whereas 15"50 tyres on FLX SE, definitely FXL SE is bumpier.

3) When I drive WIRA 1.6 and or my ISWARA, the feeling of the gas pedal is immediate, direct, ultra sensitive. Its more like when I touch the pedal, immediately I hear induction sound from my pretty racing filter, especially when I use K&N, it does sounds like CHARGING. After I got my BLM, the 1st thing in mind is, holy crap!!! WTF am I supposed to do with an electronic pedal?! The general feedback from the pedal is lag, infact DEAD! I floor the pedal, it took a second to rev up my RPM! I've been searching high + low for cure, ended up some guy come and offer me something like pay him 300 bucks, he'll setup a piggy bag to over ride my pedal control, so the car gain more response and horse power. Right before I went to ATM to get money, some sifu here saved my ass, namely Kenjilew. Those piggy bag might work well on 4AT old FL/BLM, but very less effect to FLX CVT/Manual cars. The throttle response can be improve by changing a nut. Don't ask me how, because I don't know. So, save all the money you gonna spend and buy those sifu teh tarik so they help you to "update" your throttle response better.

4) After I installed a vacuum gauge on my BLM(I have a vacuum gauge on every of my car, even my lawn mower), I figured the throttle response is NOT slow. By reading the amount of suction when you touch on the pedal you'll see the whole intake system LOSS vacuum very quickly. That is the proof of none lag throttle response. However, according to my previous experience, it felt more like - you change to 4G63T throttle body to your 4G15P, without updating your fuel rail, fuel pump, fuel regulator not boost up, injector remain standard, even computer hasn't tune yet. The very 1st time you test drive your newly installed oversized throttle body, that's the exact same feeling of DbW. Lay man term as, open mouth too big, sucked too much air inside. My next project is to collect 1 of the dirtiest air-filter and stuff it on my car and see what happen smile.gif Currently this is all base on my theory as I read from the vacuum gauge.

5) Last but not least, I'm still switching on wipers when I trying to negotiate right turn on my BLM shakehead.gif

Changing driving habit from full mechanical machine to a full electronic controlled vehicle is hard, but once you get used to it, you actually enjoy the new level of comfort driving experience. For example, a heavily modified WIRA manual, when you're doing like 3krpm, suddenly infront slow down(not totally stop), you release your gas pedal and your car start to jerk because of the inertia kicked back, with DbW you say bye bye to this forever thumbup.gif And after that, when you get back to your old school vehicle, then you appreciate the immediate response of these old machines, the direct feelings from the road, buttsecking strut feedback that tells you every single detail from the road. nod.gif

user posted image

The girls is sitting out there, and they're my favorite among all my other cars. Its not that I have a newer SAGA and forgot about the old SAGA. Both of them have different characteristics. I learnt to enjoy each of their own characters and still slowly trying to adapt my driving style to use them both on a daily basis.
davidke20
post Jun 11 2012, 06:25 AM

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QUOTE(+Newbie+ @ Jun 11 2012, 01:52 AM)
That is murderous wei ... exam oso not this hard man ... sweat.gif
1) Gotta agree. Anything above 140 is kinda scary.

2) So would you prefer 15" 55 series with stiffer suspension or 15" 50 series with softer suspension?

3) Who do I belanja teh tarik for this!?!??!

4) So you mean the throttle is actually responding, just that it sucks too much air in? That's what causes the slow response?
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2) No complain on BLM, already got used to it. Now 15"55 like a sampan. However, the only dislike is rear wheel sag in. Feels like going to take off anytime. During full load even worst. Don't see this problem on FLX wei. shakehead.gif

3) Kenjilew said he dunno how to do it, but his car already did by the grand sifus here. I personally tested his car, drove like a moron the other night(not my car mar, sumore kenji sitting beside ask me to slam 9 the throttle, so I did la) Those grandsifus are Mahihi, V12k. You may put your legs on their gas pedal(if they let you lar), try it by yourself to see how fast the throttle response is. shocking.gif

4) According to the vacuum meter, there are no lagging in throttle response. I experienced the exactly same "lagging" response after I oversized my throttle body with my car last time before I sempat to upgrade the surrounding supporting peripherals. It felt like choke by thin air when jogging at Genting highland. nod.gif However, I don't know how the "nut" can help overriding the lag response though. And I don't need to "nut" it as I already "nutted" my right foot instead. Control from my leg instead of changing the mechanical setup, avoid the car being "abused" by other family member, namely ma wife.

QUOTE(+Newbie+ @ Jun 11 2012, 01:52 AM)
Actually I was very surprised by david's story this time.

There was no embarrassing story about him being clumsy in front of pretty girl. Maybe because there was no pretty girl in the story. laugh.gif
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Awfully lot happening everyday, not worth mention unless special. Like yesterday wash car at ESSO that time, I was purposely get down the car to ensure those bugger clean my car properly giving instruction and annoy them as usual. Then another GETZ drove in also, can't help but to realized there is a hot chick sitting inside. Out of showing off my taiko skill, purposely walk behind the car shouting at the other car wash guy then accidently stepped into the middle longkang and semi kneel on the floor sweat.gif So, no choice pretend like duck down and wipe exhaust pipe la tongue.gif Luckily she didn't notice I was stepped into the longkang, so I proceed to vacuum and interior cleaning section. Parked ma car only realized I wet ma pants during jatuh longkang shakehead.gif After she also drove in interior cleaning section only I realized she's peaking on my wet pants and laughing over the phone doh.gif probably chatting about me with her friends already blush.gif

This post has been edited by davidke20: Jun 11 2012, 06:30 AM
davidke20
post Jun 11 2012, 09:37 AM

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QUOTE(MR_alien @ Jun 11 2012, 09:05 AM)
1. wira is alot lower than BLM...thats why its much more stable
u try see ferrari....lower or not?
the car which is lower to the road always more stable in high speed and cornering
BLM is consider quite high already actually....its still stable during high speed all becuz of its heavy weight

3. DBW problem...all new car have them...its all abt getting used to

5. another getting used to problem...i've no problem with it
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Agreed bro, my statement merely denying it laugh.gif matter of fact, I still maintain a WIRA on top of my GaGas. Again, I'm trying to adapt, still smile.gif

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