That's not what he meant, he said already full. He press sumore to ensure its ALREADY full. But he still finds the indicator short 1 bar.

Due to the float not floating to the max. If you remember during high school science lab experiment, teacher instruct us to fill in the tabung uji with water whilst a same diameter pingpong stuck inside. As water level raise, the pingpong also raise. Now your pingpong inside your fuel tank stuck at the 5th bar instead of going all the way up Send back to SC see whether they wanna help lo. Gotta suck out all the fuel, take out fuel pump, unhook the entire thing from the chassis, then take out the float and find out how it got stuck.

I'm having this problem of last bar often doesn't show, but didn't pay attention to it much la. As long as I know everytime when I fill in petrol when fuel warning indicator blinks, I'll fill up between 50~60, then I'm sure I'm pretty safe as long as my mileage doesn't go above 350km/tank of petrol.

Strut bar thing:

Just thought u guys might be interested to knw, strut bar isn't meant for LIFE SAVING intentionally, but to reduce chassis bent during hard corner that provide precise cornering that saves life(when 1 pushing the limits).

I've seen many cases of accident car with strut bar that DOES NOT go total loss. Normaly front impact, if your engine & chassis affected area reaches the strut tower, there is a very good chance your face already punch through the steering wheel(or the other way round). With/without the strut bar, your car(most probably both driver & vehicle) will declare total loss jor.

For side impact, normally impact point is right at the centre of the wheel. Strong force pushes lower arm, absorber in, at the same time absorber tower will compress towards engine direction. WITHOUT strut bar, damages are mostly limited to impact site. WITH good quality 2 POINT strut bar, impact for will be transfered to the other side of the strut. Normally it bent the otherside of the strut tower, and if the impact site is repairable, the otherside should have no problem to pull back to the original shape. For a cheaplug 2 POINT strut, impact force transfered to the bar, the useless bar bent and punch on the bonet/firewall/engine,pick your lucky number.

More than 2 point strut bar generally have better tensile strength, not easy to break/bend. Most 3 point strut connect both strut tower, in the middle triangular connect to the firewall. During heavy side impact, normally the 1st affected area will be tearing the firewall a big hole before the force transfer to the otherside of strut.

This serve to inform you, if your car meant to be total loss, be it with/without the strut bar, total loss is unavoidable. My auntie's BiBA has a strut bar, her Gancil has a strut bar for the past 16 years also.

According to my experience, the above car should declare total loss already. Regardless of how it repair, the structural integrity has definitely affected, and the NEXT accident is going to be nasty.

I'm not allowed to say anything about "K" company because my "A" company is merging with them NOW. However, your friend should report this to PIAM, at the same time file a record with Bank Negara Malaysia. Before anything, please go and inform PKR(or MCA if you trust them) regarding your report, so it wont go missing. Good luck to your friend, and he/she should never accept this offer by any chance if the above photo indeed insured by "K" company and IF the 12k thing is real.

Entire F1 chassis structure is lightweight carbon fibre bars total loss

It looks like already jammed brake, wheel spun and hit the concrete wall atleast 50mph(judging by the roof). Anybody measured the tyre marks?

肇禍汽車事發時疑高速行駛，失控撞擊汽車天橋石柱後
It says "high speed cruising, lose control and hit the concrete pillar"

50mph around 80kmh la

Have been using ISWAGA for few days straight, few things happened when I got back my BLM:

1) Went start the car, then arrange my boot. Got back inside, forgot ady started, turn ignition again "keek!" Sounded like iron scrubbibg off the engine, purposely start again. I purposely kick twice, the 2nd kick nothing happen. So, the detection of starter only limited to the ball bearing starter itself, not from the fly wheel. Summary is, the starter has protection mechanism, will not kick again whilst starter still turning.

2)BLM kosong spec doesn't have seat belt warning? Or mine sudah koyak?

3) Standard exhaust tip located INSIDE bumper, that's why the whole bumber is resonating like a subwoofer box while driving. Next project is to extend the tip out to align with the body length.

4) Stiffness after adding spring buffer causing speedy bush wear off, partly contributed by oversized 15" wheels. Baru 3 weeks pakai, now foot work already start making noise.

1) Starter bearing detection only not enough, if flywheel detection is good. However, the fear of engine die off WHILST DRIVING! You lose power steering, hydraulic brakes, cruising speed all together! So, if Plotong is wise enough, should have put a relay to cut off starter switch whilst alternator is charging.

2) So, meaning kosong spec doesn't have seat belt indicator la.

3) Bolt on? Hodohnyer... Was planning to get a HKS Super Drager/Fireball to hook up AFTER muffler

4) How often do u drive? I'm 5000km up since 20/3

That is not all, having new+old Gaga at the same time will develope skidsomania! When I turn right trying to get out of my house, see the FLX next to me start laughing muted in her car bcoz my wiper activated malunyerr

The purpose is to protect the transmission unit, mainly clutch bearing. However, the answer is NOT the entire truth regarding the rear wheel sensor of standing still. The tranny itself should sense of torque distribution between the slipped differential. If u jackup 1 wheel and step on the gas pedal, slipped differential to distribute more on the free wheel to keep the car on the ground.some performance vehicle will limit the wheel spin freely to avoid lose control(most Hondie iVTAC don't allow free wheel spin,not sure about Gaga's CVT though). To simplify this, when u get out from parellel parking, you turn your steering to max right, your right wheel will have less torque, whilst your slipped differential allow more torque slip to the left wheel, then u may get out from the parking easily. Now, imagine if u have an LSD on your ride, think you'll take 1/2hour to park your car

Those are the moment more memorable Normally guy laugh I won't give a damn & quickly forget. Those who sit in my passenger seat normally recon I shift very lansily, drive car like very "yeng" that type. Last month whilst my colleague in my car, she was praising me driving style very "yeng", baru I felt damn proud, misplaced 3rd gear to neutral, then RPM goes up "VROOM"

Also, another 1 last week cruising slowly around office,seeking for parking. My hawt chick colleague is walking towards her NEO, I purposely rev up my S4PE to drag her attention so I can park when she get out. "VROOM!" She was looking shocked & pointing at my car. I was damn proud & start waiving my hand, then I hit the brake as I reach her. Than I wash my windscreen with kopi ais left my coffee on the roof baru tapau...

Many other sohigh stories with my other cars as well

http://www.howstuffworks.com/differential.htm

Sendiri copy & paste lar,can't use the hotlink from phone. The only thing we can suspect is the DbW. No load on wheel, cut down air/fuel supply. Reason for not spinning the wheel too fast when no load.

My 1st experience driving ISWAGA on Panglima Garang towards Klang before KESAS. Wasn't familiar with the road condition, accidently jumped my car on the bridge. The landing is horrible, where the wheels has been rev up to higher speed than the actual traveling(air speed), had a serious DRIFT after landed

Also another point(just thinking out loud), if CVT can do free spin, by the time you're 5th gear at 7200rpm, the wheel speed prolly 200kmh jor the innersia can push your car all the way down and launch like a rocket ady

May be that's why they limit the torque/rpm when wheels are not on load.

3 year=36months X RM300
Full settlement=RM10800
Assume your Gancil is 2004, Plotong SA offer you RM7000, you still have to pay RM3800 to settle the damn car

Still got money to buy GaGa boh? Better do your own calculation first. Ask us also no use geh

Agreed with V12k & r3apers, its not entirely a bad idea,provided if your sister is going to pay the instalment/expanses/maintenance/roadtax/insurance for the Gancil. Meaning that IF your sister sambung bayar, then u have a better chance to get a new GaGa. Otherwise, you'll be paying 800+/month,double the maintenance+petrol.

As a BLM manual owner, all time performance enthusiast, GaGa CVT will be the 1st auto car recommended by me. I've tried several 1.3 CVT & several FLX SE CVT. Frankly, the torque you felt in a CVT has nothing much less than any manual car, infact the CVT clutching better than much manual driver. Often you hear pakcik at the traffic light pickup with a long haul of RPM and drag 3-4seconds of semi clutching before the car move, also normal 4AT car will have this kind of problem, which CVT DOESN'T have at all!

For a few thousand ringgit different, you get to enjoy fuel save like a manual,fast like a manual,best of it no need to clutch at traffic jam anymore! CVT FLX is the choice. Don't say I poison you, go find manual & CVT test drive to feel it. Anyway, for me 1.6 doesn't perform much better than the 1.3. So far the best 1.3CVT I sit is V12k's ride.

Tibai! I've done so much to my GaGa BLM to achieve 11km/l, around 18c/km still f*cking jealous la

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Added on May 15, 2012, 1:33 amwadafuq.... seriously thinking to sell off my BLM and get a blardy CVT FLX now

Waidaminute fuelly show your car as BLM 2010, how cum dash board different geh? BLM SE different dashboard ka? So pretty

This post has been edited by davidke20: May 15 2012, 01:48 AM

This morning woke up late, left ISWAGA key on the table. Off I drove it, while stuck in Segambut, suddenly hear rattling sound came from engine bay. I was worrying & moving slowly since traffic jam. When I reach Jalan Ipoh, I stop by my supplier and check... Found the engine oil cap melted, the metal screw & the lock fall on the rocker The birds are injured,but still can use.however,I'm advised to drain the whole system to prevent debree continue hurting other component, best is overhaul since going to take out everything

Regarding vacuum gauge, I heard electonic gauge only 60+(source from kenjilew), reading in BAR. The 1 I mentioned is analog dial gauge, reading in INCH/CM. Price is RM85(may negotiate lower for bulk order). Besides, heard the reading is inaccurate on FLX, I haven't get a chance to test vacuum on an FLX yet. Please also survey your local accessories shop. I may get the BM horn cheap, but who knows you get the vacuum gauge cheap?

Its not that I want to spend For the tyres & absorbers with mounting & bushing are all wear & tear stuff, ibeen using this set of abs & bushing for the past 6 years. RM886 is a small price to pay proided the car just clocked 400000km.

Current issue is, the melted engine oil cap has a steel locking head, and that part with the screw falen into the rocker cover. As a result some of the birds(valve lifter) being injured. According to my vacuum meter, my cam still lifting these 12 birds pretty well, valve still shut as they should. Only worry is whethere there are debree stuck inside. In the long run, the iron dust will start grindding my valve seat/piston/block etc etc labor cost is 1 full work day to dismentle the entire engine,wash it with diesel & put them back together again for RM350. That's why my mech recommend me to top up another 300 bucks to overhaul at the same time, include new piston ring/port polish/valve seat cut/new gaskets. Another 200 for the whole timing belt + fan belts set.

So, I've decided NOT to spend anymore, told my mech I'll start praying. If the engine did die within the next year, all I can do is opt for an engine swap. 4G13P engine kosong only RM800

FYI, the engine oil cap only cost RM8, and when it melt, it does cause damn a lot of trouble! S4P engine very hot rite Pls go & check your engine oil xover NOW, before its too late.

You have my personal assurance all he told is the truth! Below are some of our previous TT highlights from Mr.H, the soft spoken version of V12k!

On the way out visit the ride
D: " mai kita pi tengok keta..."
H: "Oh! Yang VIOS puteh tu kau punya?"
D: " wadafuq"

Testing Mr.H ride,waiting red light infront of Giant
D: " wah! Ur car very nice soundproof wor"
H: " tak jugak, klu rev sket mmg boley dengar...macam skarang"
Green light, wheel spin a bit, hit 100kmh in about 10seconds

Dave is scared holding the door & seat
D: "boley tahan jugak CVT punye power"
Pretend very calm & lansi
H: "I think, masa SAT punya backpush lagi power sket"
D: " apo tu SAT? "
H: " itu emulation 6AT, ada shift up punya rasa...macam ini"
SAT mode, my back was stick on the seat, palm is sweating, couldn't take my eyes off reading the speedometer climbing up from 60 to 140 in very short distance

Ladies, don't wrongly f*ck with the innocent dude!

fixed

Absofreakinlutely no idea how those car behive that way. Driving style holds the 50% of the causes of fuel consumption behavior. Like my father style, he can do 20cent/km on a TOYOGA GRIUS. Funny thing is, regardless its a GRIUS from his friend, my BLM, my previous WIGA1.6, my ISWAGA 1.3, my brother's BiBA 850... he does exactly 20cent/km for all those cars. He's just so comfortable with his 3rd gear at 5krpm, even on high way. My mother once told me, how come your BLM sound geh? Your father's car sounds like a sports car you know "VROOM VROOM!"

Read my siggy, both car behave almost the same mileage. Before I had the vacuum stuck on my BLM, I can only do 250km/tank of RM60 fillup. After I put the gague, back to 300+. If translate it to cent/km or km/litre, it looks more or less the same with my ISWAGA

I developed to read vacuum since I owned a KE20

I'm talking about the car, and I'm not that DAVID. My previous magician taught me use that thing to troubleshoot my 30 years old engine.

No worries, am not going to overhaul the damn car anyway. Swap engine is definitely more worthy. Let's hope no debree left inside, so my engine can last for another decade

Technically, natural gas will NOT hurt... UNLESS
1) Not enough gas feed in (result in burning lean and causes high heat)
2) Natural gas IS slaggy compare to petrol. The long haul of RPM rewing before the car start moving, that actually contribute to quicker clutch wear off.
3) If you run out of gas, you may switch back to petrol, but your A/F mixture will become TOO RICH, lots of black smoke and car wouldn't move, petrol consumption is 4x prior NGV conversion

My cousin is using the 1st batch BLM + NGV(if you remember the NGV package). His monthly gas expanses is around 100 bucks, with regular outstation travelling, another 100 bucks on petrol. He change engine oil once a month...some weird brand name with the rating of 20w50. And he's kinda enjoy playing with the switch, flicker back and forth. When pickup, switch to petrol, rev the damn thing up to 100kmh then cruise with NGV

#1: they add soup water to your windshield washer, that's why they charge extra. Soup water give cleaning effect, but spoil rubber/silicone very quickly. To experiment this, grab a piece of rubber, pour soup water on it and dry it. Next few days the soup composite will harden the rubber. Your next service will be changing wiper instead

#2: sundry expanses could be the tap water they added to your radiator, or they use duct tape to shut your oil sum nothing wrong with tap water as coolant to radiator. The so called coolant in Malaysia are meant for ANTI RUST, not extra cooling effect. If you want extra cooling effect, can order from STP. Those coolant promise -5'C on macimum boiling point, -5'C anti freeze(snowing country). Tried those in my Potong Vila before, it killed the radiator fan relay, thermostat in 2 months time. To hae full effect of these antifreeze coolant, we also need to change to light lift thermostat, early switch on radiator fan(80'C) instead of 90'C.

Therefore, tap water + anti rust should be sufficient jor, since your tangki is not kosong, refill with tap water is a common practice.

Distill water is for wet battery. Distill water no bubble, more stable, pure water, metal free to protect the "electrolysis" process in the wet battery plates.