come TT I teach u kidding nia...

There are many ways to read vacuum, so I just list some common stuff here. Since I'm US norm, I read INCH. You will have to find out conversion of PSI or CM by yourself. Our vehicle vacuum reading is base on MERCURY, if meter show 10in/Hg meaning every second the intake manifold is sucking in 10inches of mercury(worth of air) into the burning room. Correct me if I'm wrong.

Vehicle idling should read 15 and below(take note vacuum reading is NEGATIVE value,below means 15 and above).My BLM hot idling is 18, cold idling is 15. Aircon compressor weighted 5. If cold idling pasang aircond, vacuum will raise from 15 to 10! Meaning during cold idling 1/3 of the petrol used to supply aircon alone! My Plotong Vila idling 20, with aircon 18(very healthy). My brother's BiBA idling 19, with aircon 17(very healthy). My ISWAGA idling 21, with aircond 19(f*cking efficient). Normal healthy idling reading should be stable(do not switch on aircon), your reading should not deviate too much. If gradually raise & drop, you may have a loosen throttlebody. If the reading rattle unrythmically, you installed hicam ady if stay normal for a scond & sudden drop then quickly back to normal, and it repeat indefinitely should read as 1 of the piston is leaking.

Efficient driving, by tapping on the accelerator, throttle body is instructed to open. When throttle body open, vacuum will lose because surrounding air will push in. Therfore an engine uses throttlebody to LIMIT air induction(not as we thought uses it to increase air intake). Our S4P throttlebody is already oversized, therefore cincai step on gas pedal, vacum will raised to 0!!! Every corner we took, every traffic light pickup we did actually cost 2x/3x than other cars! I use vacuum reading to practice my right foot, gradually step into 5in/Hg, when the car start moving then grdually let loose my right foot to achive 10in/Hg. As shift up to top gear, we can easily assume driving range between 10-20in/Hg by controlling the gas pedal. You'll be surprise most of the time if u try to maintain 10in/Hg driving, your travelling speed matches SPEEDLIMIT! For example, at winding road near Kuala Kubu Bharu, 4th gear 10in/Hg and below can only result in 80kmh, max 90. However, at straight highway 5th gear 10in/Hg and below can only result in 110kmh max 120kmh. Anything above that is using more petrol than traveled distance(not efficient).

Downhill vacuum reading become tremendously inaccurate. Piston pulled down by crankshaft create suction, throttlebody is closed, actual vacuumization will put down to horrandous 26in/Hg(burning lean). At this time, engine burning room actually suffering high heat without our knowledge, because water temperature is taken from radiator, whilst you think your radiator reading is dropping, your engine is burning with less fuel at high speed! People always claim they never boil their radiator,how come they fired their gasket? I believe this is 1 of the cause.

Vaccum 10 & above(less than 10) meaning is burning rich, 10 & below is consider efficient, 20 & below is lean. That's all for now. My finger almost patah ady.

U wanna invest 1.5 months time + <RM85 or not? I'm heading back to the distributor to bulk order more stock next month, could get cheap vacuum gauge. I will not cut your vacuum hose, u can use my spare hose to test on your FLX SE. If in the end really can't make it, then sell it off for other BLM/GL kaki la. Therefore, u will not lose the entire RM85(prolly cost less than that) regardless. Besides, its a smoke gauge,may be can make a quick buck or 2 instead.

So, the projecct is, we need bulk order for BLM/FL, 1 of the FLX will be geneapig for me(with minimum/none hose chopping work). If it works, next bulk order for FLX, otherwise the testing unit will be sold to BLM/FL owner. How's that sound?

Comes to think of it, actually Huzaifa is a better candidate for me,since he stay very near to me. How about that? Huzaifa, would le be?

---

Added on May 7, 2012, 1:54 pmWill try to snap some photo for u

This post has been edited by davidke20: May 7 2012, 01:54 PM

TABI HKS(Taiwan Ayam Bran Imitation)
Mechanism: Analog direct reaction dial gauge
Lighting: None LED conventional light bulb with blue filter(so it project white light)
Price: was RM55 back in 2009. Yesterday saw RM85, can further nego if bulk order
Reliability: 2 years+ since my IswaGa/Gancil/WiGa, later added water temp to standby when stock meter malfunction, this 1 will hookup
Reason:
Advantage:
1) More immediate response to actual vacuum. Needle jump around(noise) automatically filtered.
2) Measuring machine is INSIDE the gauge, well protected from engine heat
3) This is the only smoke gauge produce by cap ayam, the rest are very expansive such as AUTOGAUGE
4) This is the only vacuum meter came with precise INCH/Centimeter mercury reading that I can understand well.
5) Gauge holder = FREE!!!!
6) Conventional light bulb no frequency, good for eyes
Disadvantage:
1) Not as accurate as digital mechanism gauges, such as Defi. For hardcore tuner, they need every single precise reading(I'm not that type)
2) ...... its not a disadvantage, its a good thing to avoid from high heat
3) Analog dial gauge is very boring and old school. Nowadays smoke gauge is very cheap and most convert to digital reading. Defi is a good brand, those who interested may consult V12k as he's using Defi. I guess price is almost the same even if its digital mechanism.
4) Nowadays people read PSI/Bar. Reading PSI/Bar can easily adjust yourself to read BOOST meter when you go force induction(which I not planned to)
5) I'm not sure other gauges come with the holder or not
6) Blue filter after using 2year+ color gone, now you can see the vacuum gauge color more yellow compare to my water temperature LED looks forever young

Depends whether you want or not. If want hensem abit, please prepare to invest a little bit more in the future. I certainly dun like to stick doublesided tape on the gauge holder pastu biar dia diri di atas dashboard... macam mat rempit.... I got a custom made pillar gauge holder that cost a bomb! May be can ask SiuYi whether got this type of stuff at a cheaper price. Anyway, for now is only testing, so no need to rush for all those conclusion. If it work, then only decide whether wanna further decorate your car or biar meter diri atas dashboard macam mat rempit. If not, we'll have to sell it off for those who can use.


Hang duduk kat Lukut kan? My relative stay there la tu budak² maen LANCER A174 yang berSR20 punya mat rempit.

This post has been edited by davidke20: May 7 2012, 04:24 PM

That's the whole idea. We're going to need an FLX to test out the old school dial gauge see whether it works. The promise is, NO WIRE CUTTING, NO HOSE CUTTING. I've got spare hose to borrow. If it works, then only install it. Otherwise, sell off the test unit.

Where do you stay? By anychance, can meet at Dengkil? Putrajaya? Cyberjaya on Thursday? I can COD you at nearby Mamaks or anywhere can TT. I know you trust me. For RM18 also dun trust, I'd flush my credibility down the drain ady.

Photo aint make it too dark. The only photo I have now is this 1, hope it helps

1) That is pointing exactly at the FUEL REGULATOR, the yellow color thing is my T-Connector. I was going to pull out the original hose, attach the T-Connector then cut a short strip of vacuum hose to connect to the fuel regulator. However, later I figured its too long and may bent the hose, so in the end I decided to chop off the original hose at the middle and sambung the T-Connector. The other end I sambung my long vacuum hose.

2) Underneath the engine cover is the Throttlebody. There is a hostler hang on top of the throttlebody to attach wire, got 1 extra hanger on top, which is made readily for me to hook up my vacuum hose

3) Same goes to brake fluid line, located at firewall. There is a hostler to hang the 2 brake fluid line, and 1 extra hanger at the bottom, which is also made readily for me to hook up my vacuum hose

4) On the right side slightly bottom of the firewall got 1 rubber seal, which people normally poke a hole and extend their MONSTER POWER CABLE for their amplifier, just puke a hole and punch the vacuum hose into the cockpit.

You may pull the vacuum hose all the way to driver side, pull out from the windscreen anti mist vent, then sambung your vacuum hose. Done!

For lighting power, you may choose to tap wire from the cigarette lighter to protect your warranty. When you turn on your key, immediately the light comes up. I myself took power directly from the fuse box since I don't have warranty

Alternatively, I saw Waukaka's ride extend the vacuum hose from fuel regulator to the fender, from fender to the door then directly pull back to cockpit from the speaker wire tunnel. Very clever indeed. That way you don't need to poke a hole on the firewall rubber cover. Anyway, I didn't do that because that's not what I want. I don't mind poke hole, I like to keep it clean and sleek. It all depends on your creativity. That's why DIY

This post has been edited by davidke20: May 7 2012, 10:02 PM

Need opinion here. Can BLM change the immobilizer & alarm unit at Plotong? I have never been to CsOe(don't know what it stands for,but I know its the main service centre @ shah alam).Desperately needed to change them both, should you have the contact/lobang to call up those people in Plotong, can provide me the detail please?

My client came & report theft loss of her FL yesterday. We lodged police report & treat it as unrecoverable case. This morning 8:30 received a call from sergeant stating the car was recovered 100% without a scratch! According to report, the previous owner saw the car, use spare key unarm the car, straight away drive home! Immobilizer also no use, because the thief is using ORIGINAL key!!!

This is 1 of the classic case the previous owner just bring the car home. May be he miss his FL so much(or plan to send kedai potong soon). We're lucky managed to find it,there are many cases of missing vehicle even the owner left the car for less than 2 minutes. It now all make sense. Because the theif is using original key to gain access. Most of these case are used car or they lost their car key before! The whole company started investigation, all flipping for previous owner's contact in the hope of they're still keeping the car @ home.

Now I'm worried! Can anybody provide me some information pleaseeeeee...

pedal lock very ugly. Need welding? Will it affect structure intergrity? Meanwhile, the BM honks how? Wait until TT only pass ka? Seriously, without YauYip is really an inconvenient.

Don't wanna crush my balls, rather die. My Dengkil magician said, take out the immobilizer cheap, stick it in the car somewhere , then change to aftermarket alarm set instead. After that, install GPS tracking system. Put a DIGI prepaid simcard, maintian 138/year to keep the card active since the GPS doesn't call often. Whenever needed, call the car to shut down engine When I ask how much to do that, he smiled and say nevermind lah

Can anybody tell me whether can send my GAGA to any service centre to do tuning? My car engine oil due jor, but no warranty lar, so thinking of let Plotong cekik me RM10 servis cas(provided if they can tunning my ride lar.

Not 10 serbis cas meh? Sorry I've never step into any Plotong serbis senter bepore. Need appointment or not? I wish to ask them 1st whether they tune the engine. I drove Kenji's & Dares's ride before, figured their car is much smoother than mine My torque is actually somehow or rather weaker compare to theirs Not modify enough or what? Besides, I think you guys mileage weight better than mine rite? Mine currently 1 tank can do around 300km heavy foot. If got bad traffic sometimes can down to 280km. However, if strictly drive between 10~15in/Hg vacuum, that can achieve 350km. If travel long distance can reach 430km until petrol indicator blink. So, my question is, this normal or not? Is it unnecessary go to Potong serbis senter for ECU tuning? I've asked all my friends around the world, they cant tune a new GAGA Not even adjust ignition timing

thanks taiko so, going back to Plotong for tuning is going to cost me a bomb anyway? Do they have a hotline I can call to enquire about how much need to be charge for ECU tuning itself? To make appointment? Do you guys know any good mechs in Plotong serbis senter?

Finally, I installed ground wire for my ISWAGA today after many years people poison me. I always bad mouthing about ground wire as I see it's unnecessary weight added placebo accessories. Until my friend offered me a set of discounted groundwire, which he made me think I'm not going to regret even invest it into some rubbish that I think it will not work. Surprisingly, the result gave me a great shock how much effect it can do to my old ISWAGA

Idling vacuum dropped from 21 to 22. 1in/Hg difference


Idling with aircon, vacuum dropped from 19 to almost 20. A 0.5~1in/Hg difference


I felt aircon is colder compare to before installation(may be placebo ), my room light no longer become disco light when I pasang techno music(not placebo) I will update FC reading after I finish this tank of petrol. I purposely go fill up my tank after installation just to start over the counter, so I can see how much it differ from before installation. My current mileage is 11km/litre. Let's see how it goes.

---

Added on May 8, 2012, 11:56 pmThat's why I'm seeking help la

This post has been edited by davidke20: May 8 2012, 11:56 PM

Mileage hitting 20k this evening. Meanwhile,I'm still around.Not convenient to type so much nia.SiuYi knoe my agenda!

Khong absorber will not make noise. Its your foot work bushing that makes such noise when you went through bumbs/rocky roads. You prolly heard "gu lok gu lok" noise inconsistantly which came from lower arm/steering bush/absorber mounting/absorber bush....etc. Absorber normally can last up to 4 years depends on the road you use regularly. If you are regular rally driver that went through a lots of over jump, normally absorber will KO within 1 year. Khong absorber will result in car swaying left/right/up/down when you driving on slightly wavy free way such as Kesas/MRR2. Normal rubber bush is RM8/pc, soft and easy to ride. Silicone bush is RM20/pc, hard & lasting. Feels like driving a race car.

If you can't feel whether the absorber is KO inside the car, you can test it OUTSIDE the car. Park your car, use bear hand to push 1 side of your front fender down with your body weight. Quickly release and see how your car sway.

- Good absorber will bounce up and that's it. No other movement.

- Bad absorber will bounce up(because of the spring), then the other side of the fender will go down like a chain reaction. Then the rear will also go down follow by the front bouncing up. The whole car swaying up/down/left/right. If the stock absorber is oil base absorber, you may find your car's foot work wet because of oil leak.

If still can not justify, go out and hunt for a new Gaga, see when they park their car and walked away, immediately you go and push their car Observe the movement of good absorber than compare it with yours.

No problem. I use MEX once a week. Normally Thursday. Challengers are NOT welcome. Petrol very expansive. Baru own the car for a month and I'm almost 5000km up liao.

---

Added on May 10, 2012, 6:10 am4G15


This post has been edited by davidke20: May 10 2012, 06:10 AM

Just got out from my dealer's office angrily. I bought my used BLM 2 months ago for 27k,on the road 28k. Year 2010 with 15k mileaged. Loan 24k @ 4.1% rate,monthly instalment 749. I tought I got a good deal.

This morning I saw a NEW...NEW BLM sold at 30k on the road + full loan @ 3.9% + full factory warranty + WWW plate! Grrrr! Didn't know they still got stock clearance!

May be... It will, but I have never heard of it. Most of the time I change absorber, the noise still exist until I change other mounting+bushing. Moreover, absorber only move up & down with assitance of coil spring. I guess the only sound you'll hear is after a roadbump the absorber shaft got ejected buy the spring that hits the top of the absorber body, which sounding like "kung". Correct me if I'm wrong.

My guess is below:

If sound came from front wheels, it could be the lower arm bushing/steering link bush/absorber bush/absorber mounting. For new car(within 2 years), seldom happen, unless wheel is oversized(15 & above), when absorber not enough free play, it got ejected by the spring every time it got pressed hard, such as emergency brake/road bump.

If sound came from back wheels, it could be the absorber mounting. Again, new car within 2 years seldom happen unless u r Tommy Makinen. Normally from the drum brake cylinder. Dares car can hear this very obvious When u release brake then u hear the sound.

1 last guess, coil spring missed-placement. Very dangerous & may tercabut. But normally after 2-3 bumps it will automatically readjustback by itself. Absorber top mounting got bearing, coil spring will auto fit in the correct place after speed bump.

You may refer to my previous post

I'm not an attention freak, but somehow or rather I felt someone doesn't like me.When I try to point out absorber no sound, someone come & bite me. When I ask for tuning, I don't get answer(not even trying to help me), I've got sarcastically treated for trying to serivice my car for 10 ringgit service charge. I took time try to contribute, gave my best according to my previous experience, even call for bulk order when I found cheap stuff. The fact is, i can't impress everyone especially over the internet.

Gaga does not have auto room light after disarm alarm. This feature is made for general safety when driver able to observe the cockpit to ensure no bad guy hiding inside the car. BiBA came with this feature from 660-Elite edition.

Gaga does not have 1 flick high beam. This is for the convenience to alert opposite direction vehicle continuosly during certain event, such as slippery road ahead/major pile up ahead/ fuzz speedtraps ahead...etc

Gaga does not have 1 flick wiper. When drizzling, sometimes u feel even 1xspeed wiper is too fast/short interval. 1 time activate is a very convenient feature.

Gaga does not have DVVT. Variable valve timing meaning the entire rocker will lift up the valve timing at higher RPM.Longer intake time+earlier exhaust to squeeze the last drop of horse power form the system.

On behalf of BiBA owners.

However, Gaga saved ERIC life, twice. Sound proof? Good to have, for a 40k car, what do you expect.

U mean FL left lever when u flick it towards yourself it doesn't stuck on high beam? And to activate high beam you have to push the lever towards the dashboard?

Or you're trying to tell me pull the lever halfway so it won't stuck at high beam? Anyway, going to test an FL tonight, will pay attention to that.

I know that. Talking about actual flash function and push foward high beam activation