racing sponge/sponge filter

Feel nothing pickup time take longer to drag vacuum back to 10inches mercury & below. May be palcebo, but normal driving it felt more efficient, but less torque at low RPM(already low,now worse). Its now even hard to control my right foot due to low restriction. I need sometime to adjust my driving style before I can give a proper feedback. For now, nothing good. All bad.

Btw, I use WD40 to oil it(as well as all my other previous performance filter).

Just got back from work, blardy heavy loaded lately. Here are some reply to r3apers,coolkwc & MildLO

Bro, replica filters are VERY GOOD for short term replacement(after washing your K&N waiting for it to dry, and dont want to let your engine go back to original stuff). Main different compare to original product is the sponge. Original sponge is very high heat resistance and can tahan dryness even without oil the sponge structure can suspend thousands of kilometers without degrading. Danger of replica is, when the cap ayam sponge started to dry, it will start to degrade and get sucked inside the burning room. If you get lucky, all the residue get ejected to the catcon, and stuck there until your catcon is clog up, and finally you get an excuse to change extractor

Follow by the plastic structure integrity. Normally original product came with extremely high quality silicone base rubber seal on stainless steel structure/polyurethane finished. These type of structure can maintain their integrity under high heat + extreme pressure(vacuum). If you try to heat up a high quality performance filter frame, it structure will maintain as long as it can tahan, until canot tahan than it snap(normally if your engine bay wouldn't heat up until that extend, unless your whole car catch on fire). A low quality replica structure are basically made of normal plastic/chromed cold rolled steel. Heat resistance is way below original stuff, normally it can tahan up to 80'c(normal plastic heat resistance range), after that it will turn soft. Basically structural wise will not hurt your engine too much as nothing get suck into the engine. But a run face(走样warp) structure filter will disturb air intake volume, and could jammed up the intake hose as well.

Worst case scenario for a replica/cap ayam performance filter, can happen with structural distortion and sponge degrading at the same time!



As I told you, today is the 1st day, I'm still trying to adjust. I'm sooooo used to super light foot now, when I release the clutch, my vacuum dropped sooooo much until it felt like the engine going to stall(air intake too much). When I able to adjust my right foot, later I'll give you a overall review again.

I read in/hg = inches/mercury. Meaning how many inches of mercury the vacuum can suck in. I normally maintain my driving around 10~15in/hg, that is the efficient burning range. Above 10 is rich, below 20 is lean, below 25 is dangerously lean and may cause overheating IN THE BURNING ROOM(not your radiator). Now less restriction on the air-filter, I need to readjust my feet to a correct position while stepping on the gas pedal, therefore my car actually lose power instead. In short, its MY PROBLEM for now

Please fix the damn windscreen if it's fixable. You may take a photo of the crack, go Dr.Cermin/Mr.Windscreen to repair it, then send the receipt back to your insurance company to partial claim. Do remember factory seal is the best and nobody can guarantee a replaced windscreen integrity. Good luck if you decide to change the whole thing.

This post has been edited by davidke20: May 3 2012, 10:41 PM

Guys, normally how long the farkin mentenan free bateri can last eh? Ma bateri dated 2/5/2011 yesterday ady difficult to start. Turn the ignition only hear relay swtching "tik,tak,tik,tak", then finally kick in. Thought of zeone case, open the sticker then manually add water... When I tear off the sticker WTF?! No cap can be open?! No choice went to sleep with thousands of worries.

Morning wakeup...my worry became reality only relay switch sound I hear for 5 minutes! Jump start also cannot, gotta charge for 10minutes then try again only can start(late to work this morning, told boss car bateri out he dun belif).

Drive to my regular bateri guy, load the bateri with engine off, reading is 10.4v Warranty 365 days, & it died on 366 days?!?! Ask bateri guy put in conventional olskol wet bateri for RM125 Load the new bateri with engine on, it show 14.3V! Alternator sihat! But then wet bateri very ugly lar... Car look sooooo white horse prince, but under the hood is an olskol wet bateri tonite go bak swap bateri with my other car, which is also mentenan phree. My 1st mentenan phree bateri was my Plotong Vila, sold togther wt the car. By the time it was sold ady being used 1 year 3 months, but then Century gib 18months warranty wor! My ISWAGA mentenan phree is my 2nd mentenan phree,which is few months old oni. My BLM think the previous owner changed it last year. Was expecting it can last me atleast a year or 2

Mentenan phree oso ka?! How cum last so damn long geh? Why mine died on 366 days geh? So damn on time. 1 day after warranty zhao die jor

Can't cum brader,tonite go back kampong see my folks. U knoe la,family man mar. Weekday sure I find excuse to get permit de.

This evening go home can not start de

Swapped bateri with my ISWAGA, then bring my ISWAGA out to continue working, then powah windoe no function after pay toll at kesas near kemuning. Whilst I was complaining, suddenly rear right tyre exploded! luckily just pickup to 60kmh oni. Stopped by roadside take off the flat tyre, found the spare tyre is flat oso so happen a taxi came! Send me to near by Shell to fill up my spare tyre, go back & change it. That alone he charge me 20 bucks!

Send the car to YauYip nearby 4 eyed uncle there to change, found out all 4 absorber also leaking!!! Uncle said that's why the thread wore uneven, as a result tyre bengkak & explode. So I gave a greenlight to change all 4 abs. Whilst taking off, found abs mounting oso gone, bearing jammed Uncle ask how I drive the car de. I said,nvm change. After everything done, found abs bush also badly wear off WTF! No choice, gotta carry on.

After all that, alignmen gao dim, go test drive. Eh, why car still jumping geh? Oh! Rest of the tyres also bengkak Meanwhile, steering become too light, lose control at corner, steering bush also gone. Previously the car was losing control all the time, therefore dun feel anything...

Now sitting here wait for 4 eyed uncle come back, he's taukeing my newly fixed ISWAGA around to adjust my steering. Later go home show you guys the bill

What to do? For the past 6 years wifey has been using it. Until bought BLM, suddenly gimme back my car key for ISWAGA, next morning my BLM hilang ady now if go TT need to obtain permit. Morning need to wake up earlier to grab car key. If late means ISWAGA for the whole day

Regarding insured value, later reach home update you guys. Still stuck in traffic.

You have chosen 2011 Proton Saga, Select Vehicle:
Average Good
Vehicle RB Code Wholesale Retail Wholesale Retail New Price
Sedan 4dr FL Standard Man 5sp FWD 1.3i PROT11AS 22,500 26,500 26,700 30,700 36,074
Sedan 4dr FL Standard Auto 4sp FWD 1.3i PROT11AQ 24,700 29,100 29,100 33,400 38,996
Sedan 4dr FL Executive Man 5sp FWD 1.3i PROT11AR 24,500 28,800 28,800 33,100 38,696
Sedan 4dr FL Executive Auto 4sp FWD 1.3i PROT11AP 26,100 30,600 30,500 35,100 41,218
Sedan 4dr FL Executive Auto 4sp FWD 1.6i PROT11BB 29,500 34,700 34,300 39,400 44,564


Obtained from Redb00k

If both Keliba & GaGa under your name, then you can transfer NCD immediately.

Go to Keliba insurance company, bring enough money to top up difference. For example last year premium was below:

For example, renewal for Keliba is 4/11/2011
Premium before NCD RM1000
NCD 55%
After NCD premium = RM450
If today you go withdraw your NCD from Keliba,
NCD deducted premium = RM550
NCD left until renewal = (insurance expiry date 3/11/2012) - (tomorrow 5/5/2012) = 181days
NCD withdrawal premium = 181/365 * RM550
Total due amount to be paid back to insurance company = RM272.74

So you no need to do cancellation. Once this is done, you may get your Keliba insurance company to issue you an endorsement note. Bring that endorsement note go to your GaGa insurance company, tell them to endorse your NCD NOW!!!! Then you have money take back from last year insurance on your GaGa

For example, new insurance for GaGa is 5/12/2011
Premium before NCD RM2000 on last year
Deductible NCD premium = 55% * RM2000 = RM1100
If you go endorse NCD from Keliba to your GaGa today,
Overpaid NCD until renewal = (insurance expiry date 4/12/2012) - (tomorrow 5/5/2012) = 212 days
NCD refund premium = 212/365 * RM1100
Total refund amount to be paid back to insured = RM638.90

Act fast. Do it on Monday immediately. Take 1 day leave, die die also do it. The amount you saved can easily get you whole sets of new performance tyres + K&N + FLX spring + damn a lot of LED

Don't forget, after withdrawed your Keliba's NCD, mark the date. By 3/11/2012 insurance expired, you can only get 0 NCD and gotta pay full premium. You may proceed to renew with full premium, on 5/5/2013, remember to go back to your insurance company ask them to endorse 25% NCD(start counting from withdrawal date), then you get money back 1 thing bear in mind, you may NEVER let your insurance lapse every year until you accumulate 55%. Otherwise NCD date will automatically reset to your new insured date. For example, if your insurance expired 3/11/2012, but you only renew your insurance on 5/11/2012, then your 5/5/2013 NCD25% will be reset. NCD25% will only come next renewal date on 4/11/2013.

Hope this is not too complicated for you to understand.

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Added on May 4, 2012, 10:08 pmHere is today's highlight.

TRD Persoga


Windscreen intact, all driver passengers survived


Toyota Longlife Coolant + Motoroil


Rear old APM absorber


Front old APM absorber


Front new KYB oil base absorber


Rear new KYB gas base absorber


New silicone bushing


Official receipt, 1 page not enough to fill in the bill...


This post has been edited by davidke20: May 4 2012, 10:21 PM

No need headache, just go to your Keliba insurance company, tell them you wanna withdraw NCD, ask them how much you need to pay. After that, take the NCD note go to your GaGa insurance company, get them to refund the overpaid premium after NCD deduction, gao dim.

Last but not least, Yau Yip will be dearly missed

Remember your withdrawal date. Next year same day of your withdrawal date can go back to Keliba insurance company get them to upgrade to 25% ady, no need to wait until next insurance renewal date.

That's an older model single pot VR4 brakes. Guess that's the only model that fits my ISWAGA with PCD114.3. As of my BLM, planning for VR4 twin pot. Will consider 4 pot if budget allowed 16" wheels, but will also have to chop away fender oso.

It was an Algis. Total loss liao.

The stock lip of Huzaifa I booked ady

Bumper if bracket no damage, kocking alone between 10-50. Depends how much dent & which part, normally both apex more expansive.

Repaint bumper normally around 150 for solid color, RM250 for metalic. Generally price are UNNEGOTIABLE, u need to choose better kungfu sifu instead of nego price.

Rape r3apers or not, please decide later. Now, aftermarket cap ayam BM horn RM9/pair,I think its blardy cheap & heard its selling ultra fast.If interested,pls PM me immediately.I'm leaving by 2pm to collect mine,& not sure how many unit left.Sorry I also just get this news from my brother,he's now transforming his BiBa to BMW sound.

Times up. No PM received. So, 2 sets for SiuYi, 1 set for me, 1 set for kenjilew(if still available). Sorry guys for the short notice. If next time I still manage to find goody, think I should've bought it first than make some profit later

Dunno wor, the 1 last time u say going off? I'm ok with any thing that can fill up my bum want BM horn or not

Yup! All tested working fine. Come TT to COD. I don't like take people money 1st, neither do I trust passing stuff here & there unless POSLAJU.

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Added on May 7, 2012, 12:53 am

After 3 days of thorough testing on SIMOTA drop in filter, below is the result

Pickup speed, cruising, overtaking, even sprint between 10~15in/hg(inches/mercury), indeed suffer much power loss compare to original paper filter

Result is... I thought the fuel gauge damaged...

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Added on May 7, 2012, 1:08 am
Followed by some interesting photos:




After all that money I've spent to repair my ISWAGA, now.... ... I really need to discipline a bit jor.

This post has been edited by davidke20: May 7 2012, 01:15 AM

Yea! Wire mesh racing filter

Actually all of them sounded a lil different. It became obvious when testing inside paper box. The angle/direction of trumpet/wire connection/feedback all also different, as a result making such obvious deviation. I was shock when they took it out, pointing the honk at open space and test...seriously week and it only come with best effect when installed behind front bumber as a resonating box. We tested all the honk, but I only recorded the last 3 as I wasn't thought of it earlier.

BM honk prolly kenot help FC I think it only improve sound system

Kenot give jor, Kenji ady own my spare unit HKS. In case I wash filter that time I need a replacement de mar

Case to case de mar. If I blind my vacuum meter and follow straight on RPM, the story will be entirely different. I may feel engine rev faster, I hear the suction sound, I also become drive garang(agressively), obviously the car also faster lo. Now, with vacuum as my guidence, mileage as my proof, at least I'm sure FC wise its NOT placebo effect lo.