Mr. Eric,

Am reporting to thread WITHOUT SC discussion. Anyways, before I head to petrol station, met with this baby and like it very much. Simple yet vibrant. Just thought of share the shakey cam with you people.





Admire...

Cheers,

Dave

Don't forget the loan process time / stock preparation / administration / registration time. To spot on an ideal plate number without "BUYING" it is almost impossible. I heard people say every English character change takes about 20~22days averagely. So, here we go:

Current N

P,Q,E,R,S,T,U,V = 8 characters

So, it should be around 160 days time it will hit WWW. However, not only 1 sohigh want to get the WWW plate desperately. So, by that time those buggers will be rushing in to buy a FLX just like you do. By the time of U - around 140 days from now, you should start to monitor the progress closely. May be can go booking, start to apply loan 1st and ask your salesmen how to go about it by that time.

Hope this help,

Dave

Dude,

Please navigate 1st, I don't have a navigator. If I came from Sg. Besi, turn left to S.Park. Shell petrol station on my left, infront traffic light T junction, what should I do?

Cheers,

Dave

p/s: you don't use whatsapp de meh?

Orait, my sohigh mistake. Yesterday SMS too much Dares, his fever pass to me ady. Eat medicine now blur² If Sri Petaling, I'm at AmBank, which direction to go?

Spank you

Dave

Looks familiar. If I cannot find you come AmBank fetch me ya. Kekekeke

How early is early? I stay veli far, northern KL wor, I come down south if no jam also 20 minutes(provided no 2krpm project + evening peak hour traffic, think it can take me 2 hours to reach there wor) Sumore gotta search for the Mamak leh. The only landmark I know is AmBank nia , so if I got lost, I always go back to AmBank there lo.

Thank you for the company, ladies... I mean gentlemen. For years I haven't felt like college, finally get the feel of that. When I thought I have time to continue search for more horse power, my money flushed into gazzilions of petrol drain. Before I able to hear a blow off sound from my engine, I'm running out of fuel. Top speed came with a price, you wouldn't want to find out.

Freebies is only good when it's useful to the person who received it. So, put it to good use, give it back to me if don't want, somebody might NEED it. For us, drive safe is number 1 rule. Get there fast & efficiently without affecting other road users is our priority. In order to build a better motorsports world, its always starts from us. What is the first thing of IMPROVEMENT? Be it driving skills or your ride's horse power. IMPROVEMENT starts with "I" - myself.

Next time let me have a chance to take your ride! I really wanted to have a feel of it! Loud exhaust! Induction sound that drive my adrenaline rush! Speed.... errr... no need la. Just give me a wheel spin during your 2nd shift up at 6krpm! You can never forget that kind of back sticking to the seat feeling for every car in your life time! A side note...I really want to try CVT... condition is NOT V12K driving . Anyone would let me try?

To conclude, this is the best meetup I've ever had. Humble people, more importantly these guys are full of knowledge in BLM/FL/FLX which I have no idea FLX SE's bodykit actually came with that color They help each other to understand their current vehicle problem/condition, and some crazy DIY performance improvement parts! Really salute! Next time TT I bet I'll learn more BLM/FL/FLX stuff from you guys!

Cheers,

Dave

p/s: TT rendezvous damn far from where I stay lar!!!

This post has been edited by davidke20: Mar 31 2012, 01:18 AM

If your car... I'll drive. Saw you carrying Dares in the passenger seat and drove like a numb nut.

Buy the heat wrap and wrap 9 your extractor ma gao dim lor. You don't get to experience power drop due to engine bay heat lar, unless you drift... Moreover, built a custom heat wrap like V12k is ultra waste of time/energy/money. Might as well stick back to original air box with drop in filter? If still scared of heat, ask your mother for a roll of foil paper and wrap 9 7 the intake box lar. Next time.... if got time lar, then only I show you how to DIY protection for your mushroom head la(not your lil brother, your lil brother got DUREX gao dim ady).

Good night for now, tomorrow early morning go karak highway tauke...tauge...torque...tongue...torch...touge... *** can't remember the Japanese word la. My elder brother always told, the secret weapon in a road battle is... have enough sleep. Lose 9 jor nevermind, keep your life and your ride, next time make a come back and try to tapau your opponent again.

Cheers,

Dave

The roaring sound is from the BLMers, as we're testing/showing off our ride

Kenji answered you, we only have 4 BLM and 1 old ISWARA

Come join us! We kena mentally bullied!!! Seeing those buggers driving past, although we're still proud of our ride, but still... not enough member around lar!

Next freebie is ready... waiting for the organizer to arrange next meet up! Come join us! The more the merrier! Organizer?! Where in the fish are you?! Sleep 9 7 jor ar?! Must say something lar! You're the BLM TT club tai kor wat.

Heard Dares was arranging for a PD convoy? No participant? Why not make it a day trip? Besides, do we have members from Northern region? Come la, we plan properly, may be next year we arrange a full tour up north? Night time go coaster road there see people drift, tauke...tongue...torch... dius! Can't remember the word la!

Milehigh... going to be 2 o clock. Really gotta sleep liao!

Cheers,

Dave

"Dares" is the sohigh who organize this. He's the tai kor in organizing TT not me. I know the night is still young, read the posting time. I had to go.... tauke...tongue...torch...tank...touch...touge... wtf is the Japanese word they normally use to describe attacking time trail at winding roads?

Come get it! Organize next TT!

V12,

I know CAMPUR is high compression lean burning engine, so high heat is UNavoidable. And the "leg soft" during sunny day all can be explained. Don't take this wrong, its a discussion. So I'm answering Kenji below. Please read on.

Hey Ken,

Just got back from a beautiful trip! Now, to further elaborate my point, if you do open pod meaning you're going to mass suction! Regardless of quality of the air, you definitely want it! So, if you do open pod, you should NOT cover the "mushroom" surrounding. Instead, you should find a proper way to direct "quality" air to your "mushroom". My cucuk is, since you do open pod, and customize a box to cover the surrounding to reduce HEAT induction as well as protect it from excessive dust... might as well stick to original induction box, put a drop in filter to increase air flow? Sorry V12 bro, I don't mean to cucuk you, but you should really consider to take care of the surrounding environment instead of do a box to contain the filter from sucking heat. Mass induction meaning outside air are free flow to your induction system. So, take out the box is a MUST to increase more air flow. Back in the old days, we drive carburetor the only thing to take us to the holy grail is customize air ram/replacement air ram from van or lorry
Since you told me S4P engine are high heat, you may consider to reduce the heat exposure of your other system instead of covering the air filterBelow are my experience with few of the numb nuts did to their car when I was still in my kampong time.

1st stage:
Original extractor came with aluminium plate to separate heat from the extractor. By changing to after market stuff, you may consider to use heat wrap to contain the extra heat generated by the capayam extractor. This kind of MODIFICATION can actually reduce your heat from being exposed to your engine bay.

Many doesn't realize how hot the extractor can become when doing 4krpm cruising at the high way.

So, you probably saying the cool air will wash away the heat, and its true. Where the heat goes? Up? Down? Left? Right? All correct. Upper part goes to your pretty CAMPRO cover, then pushing down again and make your engine hotter. Down to your oil pan, heat up the rest of the engine oil in your oil sum. Left to your air-con hose and your power steering fluid, and right side is your induction system.. battery... and many other stuff. Rest of the hot air that is not cooking anything, it will flow back through any holes on your firewall and burn your little brother. And if you're a drifter, congratulations. Very limited cool air flowing in to the engine bay as most of the time is maintaining at extremely high RPM, whilst the car is drifting side way, air flow will be hitting on your mud guard instead. Where does all the heat goes? No where! Cooking anything in your engine bay!

2nd stage:
If that still doesn't satisfy, try to ask your exhaust sifu to weld back all the screw thread and have your original aluminium plate attach on the already heat wrapped extractor(or you may customize a pretty stainless steel plate and attach to the extractor as a hat). Like this, your car basically can no longer feel the heat of your extractor anymore!

Now, what left behind is the radiator fan. When your car is running, air flow will take the heat away. Covered induction may have slightly more advantage because the heat are contained outside, but you're taking in less air. However, open pod may suffer at the beginning, as the car moved the hot air will be blown away.

3rd stage:
Tilt radiator. When the radiator is lean forward, the air flow will be shooting upwards instead. So, you may consider to customize an engine hood. Leave a big hole on the hood to get rid of the hot air blow by the radiator fan.

Exact setup should be like this:


Unknown stage:
Have you ever heard of 飞机胶 Araldite?

This is an unknown territory for me. Now my plan is, after stage 1, I'm going buy a can of this,

and apply it on my extractor after the heat wrap! This epoxy resin should act as my 2nd protection, to contain all the heat from leaving my extractor's surface. Araldite is extremely high heat resistance. After hardened, its almost impossible to be removed... and fugly However, I don't know whether the heat will continue dry up the epoxy and on burn up causing an engine fire.

There are still many ways to reduce heat without jeopardizing open pod air intake. Besides, after you close the surrounding of your "mushroom" ar, the feeling/induction sound is almost no difference than the original stuff I also doubt whether there is enough air flow like the original air box.

Cheers

p/s: Or if you really want to protect the mushroom more than the performance you want, HONDA MUGEN intake box is a must for you


This post has been edited by davidke20: Apr 1 2012, 04:05 PM

TO ZEONE

Installed the cabin filter. Its FAWESOME! I was ripping off the box and started to think... OMFG, this kind of paper filter is known to be sucker to our engine intake. After took out the original filter and replaced with the new clean cabin filter.... TO MY SURPRISE! There is NO REDUCE in aircon blowing speed. The flow is as good as original(confirm not better, if better means the paper filter is not doing the job). Paper filter is known to absorb evaporates, and that will keep your cooling coil healthy for long² time! Thanks you bro.

Cheers,

This post has been edited by davidke20: Apr 1 2012, 04:20 PM

The arrogant man does not mean that. I think below should explain it all:

BiBA: When left level were pulled towards driver, windshield washer + wiper activate, when push upwards, only wiper wipe once.
BLM: When right level were pulled towards driver, windshield washer + wiper is activated.(finished)

BiBA: When right level were pulled towards driver and release quickly, it flash the high beam. Repeatedly flashing is easy. To activate high beam, push the level towards the dash board instead. To deactivate, pull the level back to original station.
BLM: When left level were slightly pulled towards driver and quickly released, it flash the high beam. Repeatedly flashing is almost impossible, because pull too hard it will become high beam activation.

Not a BiBA owner, but I drove a few MyBI before, and presume the layout of a BiBA is the same.

Cheers

Welcome to the reality. I'm one of many BLM owner that cracking head trying to figure out what's wrong with the FC. Anyway, before the angry bird starts to stroke you, you better move your FC ass to the proper discussion thread.

Cheers

Hamsup? No ar. I always like to go ENDLESS booth trying to find out more about brakes. We, ofcourse we know what does brakes means, but some other people may think during collision, you need something soft and bouncy to protect you infront, preferably come with a pair of them. So, for Dares, he thought ENDLESS is an air bag company

ZEONE bro,

Personally, I felt greatful with my "used" BLM. I used to drove below cars:

1) Accord 200i (comfortable as hell,drink petrol like mad)
2) 1990 Potong Knight 1.5S(FF also can drift,front soft,rear hard)
3) 1989 SAGA SEDAN 1.5S(8v Mits Orion engine,freakin powerful! But radiator always boil)
4) 2001 BMW328i(NS way from Sg.Buloh to Juru 6 speeding tickets in total! Record of my summon is 258kmh.business went sour,couldn't maintain it anymore,sold due to aircon compressor faulty. That alone will cost me 7k to repair it)
5) 1976 Mazda 808 1.3(comfy ride,powerful,born as a wild horse.resemble Ford Mustang GT 1969)
6) 1974 Levin sprinter(can slide even 40kmh,born a drift king,many mods until engine blow)
7) 1973 Mazda RX-2(rotary engine,what can I say?)
8) 2001 WIRA 1.3 A/B (full tank RM70 can only clock 280km top most,no RPM meter)
9) 1996 ISWARA SEDAN 1.3 (veli lasak! Low FC oso. But u can feel the car jump even it runover a mosquito)
10) 1996 WIRA 1.6(m) (very comfy ride,hi power,sprinter,ultra handling. BUT the seat is way too low for me. Bumb my head several times,rusty)

Finally, I bought a BLM as a weekend car. Decently comfortable, reasonable noise level, the most powerful 1.3 engine I had before(besides of my RX-2) bearable FC,annoying drive by wire. More importantly, the most economy among its category!so, it really isn't that bad if compare apple to apple.

Dave

Dares,

I will not hijaak thread, so the story stops here. My theory came with all those experience. Next TT freebie giveaway,grandprize=faster+smoother ride guaranteed.

R3aper,

Not convenient to talk Mazda here. Its a BLM/FL/FLX thread. Gotta respect da great TS. Wait til Dares arrange for next TT session.

Btw, don't know wtf went wrong, I couldn't quote l reply anymore

Dave

RM45 for 310km, what else do you expect? mine 50 can only do less than 300km, besides it's a manual! something wrong with my car.

Its the funnel bent not efficient, as a result huge volume of petrol flowing in, the angle will reject fuel, as a result the nozzle thought the petrol tank ady full that causes the stop. I was wondering how come the nozzle stop supplying so fast, so I tilt the nozzle to 45' to the right, and there it continue fueling up. I used to have the same problem with my old MAZDA 808.

Dude you got bad record la. I'm worried. From what I heard, you use a tree to make up your car rite? Thats why until today your car still blue black in hospital.

Uah! You gam lan geng 1 ar? Mind to share some story? Like that car definitely not going to borrow you de, but interested to hear your stories though