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 Arowana Lovers V6, All about Arowana

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Mahathir Mohamed
post Mar 19 2012, 11:04 AM

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From: Cheras,Kuala lumpur


QUOTE(wmkr @ Mar 19 2012, 10:51 AM)
My Aro now living with these....

The Stud...

user posted image

The Female...

user posted image

The picture taken just after hour's release into the tank... will update once it is more stable
*
im interested to get a ray as well but how big is the tank suppose to be as i dont think my 4ft x 1.5 ft is big enough for the ray and the aro..and plus what type of filter are you using as i read somewhere that ray bio load is double then the aro so the filter system need to good enough to cover all of the fish..sorry im a noob so banyak tanya sikitla..hehe..
wmkr
post Mar 19 2012, 11:38 AM

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QUOTE(Mahathir Mohamed @ Mar 19 2012, 11:04 AM)
im interested to get a ray as well but how big is  the tank suppose to be as i dont think my 4ft x 1.5 ft is big enough for the ray and the aro..and plus what type of filter are you using as i read somewhere that ray bio load is double then the aro so the filter system need to good enough to cover all of the fish..sorry im a noob so banyak tanya sikitla..hehe..
*
a guide i borrow from other forum

So you're ready for for a stingray. here are a few things you need to know before buying one

Research
Well you are reading this so that is a start, but you also need to read up on them from other sources as well. there are a few good books. "Freshwater Stingrays A Complete Pet Owner's Manual" by Richard Ross is one, and aqualog has another. Don't just stop at these two as there are more out there. Also the internet is a great place to gather information but verifying this info to be the correct info is that hard part. As some will be conflicting with each other. One of the best sources of information is your fellow ray keepers. Don't be afraid to ask questions as most of us are more than willing to help out to see if a ray is right for you.

Tank Requirements
Now that you have done some research and know a little bit about the ray lets talk about the tanks they need. Stingrays get very big and require a tank with a large foot print. Even the smaller breeds need a large tank, and remember on these a tank with more length and width is more important to height. the smaller breeds (scobina, reticulata, hystrix) require at least a 2'x5' and larger tanks. As they will grow anywhere from
12"-20"

While your mid size breeds (motoro,orbignyi, humerosa, leopoldi, henlei, yepezi) will require a slightly larger tank as they can grow up to 20"-30". So you are going to need a tank with a minimum of 3'x6' to house one for life and a gain the bigger the better.

Now its time to talk about the larger breeds (castexi, Schroederi, Menchacai). these require a very large footprint as they have a bigger disc. They can reach a size of 30"-40" so need at least 4'x8' footprint and like always the bigger the better.

This is just a guide line for the ray housing requirements and their are more species than i listed and also size variations within these. some will get bigger than i stated while others will stay smaller. Males in general stay smaller than the females, so if size is an issue buy a male instead. A rule of thumb i like to follow is if the rays disc and tail can touch both front and back of the tank, its time to upgrade.

Water Quality and Filtration
This is very important when owning a fish of any kind. The number one killer of all fish is ammonia and bad water. As you have read rays get big and they produce a lot of waste. Even when they are pups rays produce a lot of waste you can tell by looking at their poo alone. Much bigger than most other types of fish. So great filtration is a must!

To start out with this a cycled tank is very important. please don't go out and buy a tank and ray the same day. A month or two to have a good cycled tank is a great way to keep a ray alive.

Stingrays are very sensitive to water changes so your filtration needs a lot of bio media and mechanical media to keep the ammonia levels down. Plenty of water changes are also very important in helping your filtration out and providing a good living environment for your ray.

This can be accomplished by multiple cannisters, sumps, HOB's, or OHF's. and even a combination of them all. a good flow rate usually of 6-10x per hour is important to make sure the water is coming into contact with all of the bio media to remove the toxins.

Water volume is also key. A larger water volume you have the better it is for the ray. This helps as having more water it is more forgiving as it also dilutes ammonia and other toxins so this is a must. One of the easiest way to achieve this is by use of a sump. this acts as a great filter and doesn't take up any floor space and it fits under your tank. when buying a sump get the biggest your able to fit under the tank as a rule of thumb.

As far as Ph is concerned i feel that keeping your fish into as close to range as your water you do your water changes with is very important. As rays are sensitive to PH changes and temperature changes. so keeping them both close to your water change water is a good practice.

Also all heaters in the tank need heater guards as rays can burn their disc very easily! sometimes they will burn so bad that it will scar. these can be made or bought and you will be very happy you did it.

Buying A Ray
Now that you know more about rays its time to decide what type and where to buy. So what size tank you have comes into effect here so you want to research the type of ray that can live in your tank for life. Now is another good time to ask your fellow ray keeper's where they purchased their rays at so you have an idea of where to start looking. Be patient and find the ray that you like the most not because someone else said it looked good, but because you think it looks good. Remember this is your ray and your future love

Make sure you are buying from a good source. Most places will allow you to watch the ray eat before buying. So please ask to see this as a healthy ray will eat almost at all times of the day. If the ray does not eat and they say it has just been fed then go back tomorrow and ask to watch again.

Examine the ray closely to make sure it does not have any external parasites or redness. If you see any make sure the owner is aware of this. Most cases they will be aware even if they say they are not. If this is your first ray i would go to the next vendor even if offered a good deal.

Size is important again. Small rays are cheaper in most cases and seem the way to go, but smaller rays are more sensitive to change than the larger rays and sometimes are picky eaters and might not eat at all. So sometimes its best to spend a little extra money and buy a 6" or larger ray as they have lived this long and are eating great. Also ask what the seller feeds the ray and buy some if you don't already have.

Acclimating The Ray
Now that you have purchased your new ray its time to get it in the tank. There are a few methods for this: Now if you bought close to where you live or a few hours away a good method is the "drip method". What you do is put your ray in a bucket if its not already in one. Then you take an airline and create a siphon between your main tank its going in and the bucket. this slowly fills up the bucket and lets the ray get use to your tank water slowly. after your bucket is filled you want to drain it out as much as you can to make it easier to handle. then slowly dump the ray into your tank.

Another way of doing this is taking a cup and you take a cup of water out of the bucket and then you add a cup of your tank water every 5 mins for a half hour to an hour or so.

The other method is best used for when you have your ray shipped and it has been in a bag for 12 hours or more. This is called the squirt and drop method. Since the ray has been in the bag water for so long and is making it slowly toxic you will want to have your chems ready (i use AmQuel). You want something that removes ammonia, chloramines, and chlorine. and as soon as you open the bag you squirt some of this in and then put the ray into your water. while keeping as much of the bag water out.

This keeps the toxic water out of the tank and gets the ray out of the water fast. as floating the bag or raising the temp and opening the bag is actually making it more toxic for the fish so this removes those toxins fast.

Its best to have a quarantine tank for your ray this way you can watch the ray and make sure it doesn't have any parasites or eating problems. Introducing new fish its always better to quarantine for a few weeks so you don't introduce parasites into your main tank

Feeding The Ray
Alright now that your new ray is in your tank its time to feed. A healthy ray will usually eat right out of the bag. Sometimes they are a little stressed and it takes longer though. I usually keep lights off for the ray to settle down for a few days and this helps when feeding.

Hopefully the seller told you what the ray was eating before you bought it so now use that information. Try to stay away from live feeders as they can carry parasites. Feeding a variety of things is good for a healthy ray as it replicates their natural diet. mp, tilapia, pellets, fish fillets, blood worms, black worms, and earth worms are some of the things to start out feeding. see what they take to and feed them what they will eat worry about transferring them onto other foods later. Feed the ray until it stops eating and has a big hump on the back. Then net out the remaining food so it doesn't rot in your tank.

Some rays take time to start eating so don't stress out. Sometimes it even takes up to a week or longer. Just make sure you are doing water changes for pristine water conditions. Also keep the lights off as the ray might be stressed out. and lastly make sure you are offering a variety of foods.

Other Things You Need To Know
Now if you are thinking about adding tank mates to your stingray remember: stingrays are an effective predator. this means whatever will fit into its mouth will end up there in most cases. Also you need to know some tank mates will bite at the rays disc, tail, and eyes. this can stress and even kill your ray. And just because the tank mate worked with someone else's ray doesn't mean its ray safe or that it will work out. So be careful when buying your rays tank mates.

Also medicating a ray. Please make sure you identify before you medicate. Rays are very sensitive to medications so using the wrong type or too much can kill your ray. So make sure you identify the problem if its parasite, fungus, or bacterial. then purchase the ray safe meds to fix the problem.

Asking questions and posting pictures will make this easy to do. So if your unsure ask.

Thank you for taking the time and reading this. hopefully it will help in your future purchase and keeping of these magnificent creatures as they will bring joy to your life and quickly become your favorites. And remember the more you research and know before you buy, the better prepared you will be.

Happy keeping,
Jeffers
Mahathir Mohamed
post Mar 19 2012, 12:20 PM

New Member
*
Newbie
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Joined: Feb 2012
From: Cheras,Kuala lumpur


QUOTE(wmkr @ Mar 19 2012, 11:38 AM)
a guide i borrow from other forum

So you're ready for for a stingray. here are a few things you need to know before buying one

Research
Well you are reading this so that is a start, but you also need to read up on them from other sources as well. there are a few good books. "Freshwater Stingrays A Complete Pet Owner's Manual" by Richard Ross is one, and aqualog has another. Don't just stop at these two as there are more out there. Also the internet is a great place to gather information but verifying this info to be the correct info is that hard part. As some will be conflicting with each other. One of the best sources of information is your fellow ray keepers. Don't be afraid to ask questions as most of us are more than willing to help out to see if a ray is right for you.

Tank Requirements
Now that you have done some research and know a little bit about the ray lets talk about the tanks they need. Stingrays get very big and require a tank with a large foot print. Even the smaller breeds need a large tank, and remember on these a tank with more length and width is more important to height. the smaller breeds (scobina, reticulata, hystrix) require at least a 2'x5' and larger tanks. As they will grow anywhere from
12"-20"

While your mid size breeds (motoro,orbignyi, humerosa, leopoldi, henlei, yepezi) will require a slightly larger tank as they can grow up to 20"-30". So you are going to need a tank with a minimum of 3'x6' to house one for life and a gain the bigger the better.

Now its time to talk about the larger breeds (castexi, Schroederi, Menchacai). these require a very large footprint as they have a bigger disc. They can reach a size of 30"-40" so need at least 4'x8' footprint and like always the bigger the better.

This is just a guide line for the ray housing requirements and their are more species than i listed and also size variations within these. some will get bigger than i stated while others will stay smaller. Males in general stay smaller than the females, so if size is an issue buy a male instead. A rule of thumb i like to follow is if the rays disc and tail can touch both front and back of the tank, its time to upgrade.

Water Quality and Filtration
This is very important when owning a fish of any kind. The number one killer of all fish is ammonia and bad water. As you have read rays get big and they produce a lot of waste. Even when they are pups rays produce a lot of waste you can tell by looking at their poo alone. Much bigger than most other types of fish. So great filtration is a must!

To start out with this a cycled tank is very important. please don't go out and buy a tank and ray the same day. A month or two to have a good cycled tank is a great way to keep a ray alive.

Stingrays are very sensitive to water changes so your filtration needs a lot of bio media and mechanical media to keep the ammonia levels down. Plenty of water changes are also very important in helping your filtration out and providing a good living environment for your ray.

This can be accomplished by multiple cannisters, sumps, HOB's, or OHF's. and even a combination of them all. a good flow rate usually of 6-10x per hour is important to make sure the water is coming into contact with all of the bio media to remove the toxins.

Water volume is also key. A larger water volume you have the better it is for the ray. This helps as having more water it is more forgiving as it also dilutes ammonia and other toxins so this is a must. One of the easiest way to achieve this is by use of a sump. this acts as a great filter and doesn't take up any floor space and it fits under your tank. when buying a sump get the biggest your able to fit under the tank as a rule of thumb.

As far as Ph is concerned i feel that keeping your fish into as close to range as your water you do your water changes with is very important. As rays are sensitive to PH changes and temperature changes. so keeping them both close to your water change water is a good practice.

Also all heaters in the tank need heater guards as rays can burn their disc very easily! sometimes they will burn so bad that it will scar. these can be made or bought and you will be very happy you did it.

Buying A Ray
Now that you know more about rays its time to decide what type and where to buy. So what size tank you have comes into effect here so you want to research the type of ray that can live in your tank for life. Now is another good time to ask your fellow ray keeper's where they purchased their rays at so you have an idea of where to start looking. Be patient and find the ray that you like the most not because someone else said it looked good, but because you think it looks good. Remember this is your ray and your future love

Make sure you are buying from a good source. Most places will allow you to watch the ray eat before buying. So please ask to see this as a healthy ray will eat almost at all times of the day. If the ray does not eat and they say it has just been fed then go back tomorrow and ask to watch again.

Examine the ray closely to make sure it does not have any external parasites or redness. If you see any make sure the owner is aware of this. Most cases they will be aware even if they say they are not. If this is your first ray i would go to the next vendor even if offered a good deal.

Size is important again. Small rays are cheaper in most cases and seem the way to go, but smaller rays are more sensitive to change than the larger rays and sometimes are picky eaters and might not eat at all. So sometimes its best to spend a little extra money and buy a 6" or larger ray as they have lived this long and are eating great. Also ask what the seller feeds the ray and buy some if you don't already have.

Acclimating The Ray
Now that you have purchased your new ray its time to get it in the tank. There are a few methods for this: Now if you bought close to where you live or a few hours away a good method is the "drip method". What you do is put your ray in a bucket if its not already in one. Then you take an airline and create a siphon between your main tank its going in and the bucket. this slowly fills up the bucket and lets the ray get use to your tank water slowly. after your bucket is filled you want to drain it out as much as you can to make it easier to handle. then slowly dump the ray into your tank.

Another way of doing this is taking a cup and you take a cup of water out of the bucket and then you add a cup of your tank water every 5 mins for a half hour to an hour or so.

The other method is best used for when you have your ray shipped and it has been in a bag for 12 hours or more. This is called the squirt and drop method. Since the ray has been in the bag water for so long and is making it slowly toxic you will want to have your chems ready (i use AmQuel). You want something that removes ammonia, chloramines, and chlorine. and as soon as you open the bag you squirt some of this in and then put the ray into your water. while keeping as much of the bag water out.

This keeps the toxic water out of the tank and gets the ray out of the water fast. as floating the bag or raising the temp and opening the bag is actually making it more toxic for the fish so this removes those toxins fast.

Its best to have a quarantine tank for your ray this way you can watch the ray and make sure it doesn't have any parasites or eating problems. Introducing new fish its always better to quarantine for a few weeks so you don't introduce parasites into your main tank

Feeding The Ray
Alright now that your new ray is in your tank its time to feed. A healthy ray will usually eat right out of the bag. Sometimes they are a little stressed and it takes longer though. I usually keep lights off for the ray to settle down for a few days and this helps when feeding.

Hopefully the seller told you what the ray was eating before you bought it so now use that information. Try to stay away from live feeders as they can carry parasites. Feeding a variety of things is good for a healthy ray as it replicates their natural diet. mp, tilapia, pellets, fish fillets, blood worms, black worms, and earth worms are some of the things to start out feeding. see what they take to and feed them what they will eat worry about transferring them onto other foods later. Feed the ray until it stops eating and has a big hump on the back. Then net out the remaining food so it doesn't rot in your tank.

Some rays take time to start eating so don't stress out. Sometimes it even takes up to a week or longer. Just make sure you are doing water changes for pristine water conditions. Also keep the lights off as the ray might be stressed out. and lastly make sure you are offering a variety of foods.

Other Things You Need To Know
Now if you are thinking about adding tank mates to your stingray remember: stingrays are an effective predator. this means whatever will fit into its mouth will end up there in most cases. Also you need to know some tank mates will bite at the rays disc, tail, and eyes. this can stress and even kill your ray. And just because the tank mate worked with someone else's ray doesn't mean its ray safe or that it will work out. So be careful when buying your rays tank mates.

Also medicating a ray. Please make sure you identify before you medicate. Rays are very sensitive to medications so using the wrong type or too much can kill your ray. So make sure you identify the problem if its parasite, fungus, or bacterial. then purchase the ray safe meds to fix the problem.

Asking questions and posting pictures will make this easy to do. So if your unsure ask.

Thank you for taking the time and reading this. hopefully it will help in your future purchase and keeping of these magnificent creatures as they will bring joy to your life and quickly become your favorites. And remember the more you research and know before you buy, the better prepared you will be.

Happy keeping,
Jeffers
*
thanks for the infor bro..i guess i need to get a bigger tank and sump tank before even considering to get freshwateer ray..hmm..
Travies
post Mar 19 2012, 12:39 PM

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how much is the white dot ray u having? it is pretty nice. i think it wont be cheap to have it.
wmkr
post Mar 19 2012, 02:14 PM

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QUOTE(Travies @ Mar 19 2012, 12:39 PM)
how much is the white dot ray u having? it is pretty nice. i think it wont be cheap to have it.
*
price is rm1488 per pair.... but the one left behind is so so only...
byakuya8283
post Mar 19 2012, 02:28 PM

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Joined: Jun 2009
From: cheras kl


QUOTE(wmkr @ Mar 19 2012, 02:14 PM)
price is rm1488 per pair.... but the one left behind is so so only...
*
nice ray and familiar wit me d ray...nice selection.....and update my pets family red aro

This post has been edited by byakuya8283: Mar 19 2012, 02:32 PM


Attached thumbnail(s)
Attached Image Attached Image
hou
post Mar 20 2012, 08:20 AM

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bro byakuya8283, how much will cost for red aro now day?
sharing my only aro with all bro here.. smile.gif

user posted image

user posted image
wmkr
post Mar 20 2012, 08:31 AM

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QUOTE(hou @ Mar 20 2012, 08:20 AM)
bro byakuya8283, how much will cost for red aro now day?
sharing my only aro with all bro here.. smile.gif

user posted image

user posted image
*
nice piece u got there... got any picture on the Pearls/chu
hou
post Mar 20 2012, 08:50 AM

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this aro got no pearls..maybe this pic show clearer

user posted image
akuning
post Mar 20 2012, 09:30 AM

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Joined: Jul 2007


QUOTE(wmkr @ Mar 15 2012, 11:38 PM)
Hi just want to update my Kelisa Emas since I just manage to snap 2 picture of it...

size around 9-10 inch
diet mainly MP



enjoy n comment pls...
*
mind to share where u got this pcs? brows.gif
Mahathir Mohamed
post Mar 20 2012, 10:00 AM

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Joined: Feb 2012
From: Cheras,Kuala lumpur


QUOTE(wmkr @ Mar 20 2012, 08:31 AM)
nice piece u got there... got any picture on the Pearls/chu
*
sorry sifu's..need to ask because i am very confused with the term pearl and the term chu..i have done my research and from a newbie point of view chu is the brown/grey colouration on top of the aro but when i ask the shop the other day they say that chu is crossback and crossback is the back part of fin(the top part)gold ring that will grow towards front part of the aro..(huh?seriously im getting more confused)

i was then inform that pearl is located at the back of the body of the aro..near the fin..im not sure..anyone care to pass down some knowledge to me..on..

what is pearl..
what is crossback..
and what is chu..

thanking in advance on whoever that are willing to pass down some knowledge to me.. notworthy.gif
TSpigpig
post Mar 20 2012, 10:31 AM

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QUOTE(Mahathir Mohamed @ Mar 20 2012, 10:00 AM)
sorry sifu's..need to ask because i am very confused with the term pearl and the term chu..i have done my research and from a newbie point of view chu is the brown/grey colouration on top of the aro but when i ask the shop the other day they say that chu is crossback and crossback is the back part of fin(the top part)gold ring that will grow towards front part of the aro..(huh?seriously im getting more confused)

i was then inform that pearl is located at the back of the body of the aro..near the fin..im not sure..anyone care to pass down some knowledge to me..on..

what is pearl..
what is crossback..
and what is chu..
pearl ans chu is the same thing.. one in english, one in chinese.. as for crossback, the gold shine will cross over to the other side.. usually highgback top part are in dark green colour..
thanking in advance on whoever that are willing to pass down some knowledge to me.. notworthy.gif
*
This post has been edited by pigpig: Mar 20 2012, 10:34 AM
Mahathir Mohamed
post Mar 20 2012, 10:43 AM

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From: Cheras,Kuala lumpur


QUOTE(pigpig @ Mar 20 2012, 10:31 AM)

*
thanks pigpig..but what is pearl...

and crossback means the shining part on top will cross..so the dark part on top will be replaced with the shining part?
wmkr
post Mar 20 2012, 11:02 AM

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QUOTE(Mahathir Mohamed @ Mar 20 2012, 10:43 AM)
thanks pigpig..but what is pearl...

and crossback means the shining part on top will cross..so the dark part on top will be replaced with the shining part?
*
chu or pearl are the scale near to the dorsal fin... as for cross back is the 6th level shine scale (which is on top of the body) on an aro... this usually applies to Golden aro....

btw what type of aro did u purchase... if hb than it's really nice.. but if mg/xb then we need to know the chu got full or not


Added on March 20, 2012, 11:03 am
QUOTE(akuning @ Mar 20 2012, 09:30 AM)
mind to share where u got this pcs?  brows.gif
*
got it from a trader.... not lfs


Added on March 20, 2012, 11:05 am
QUOTE(hou @ Mar 20 2012, 08:50 AM)
this aro got no pearls..maybe this pic show clearer

user posted image
*
this aro look like cross breed between hb n low grade mg... some would call it quality hb/superhb last time... biggrin.gif

This post has been edited by wmkr: Mar 20 2012, 11:05 AM
Mahathir Mohamed
post Mar 20 2012, 11:07 AM

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From: Cheras,Kuala lumpur


QUOTE(wmkr @ Mar 20 2012, 11:02 AM)
chu or pearl are the scale near to the dorsal fin... as for cross back is the 6th level shine scale (which is on top of the body) on an aro... this usually applies to Golden aro....

btw what type of aro did u purchase... if hb than it's really nice.. but if mg/xb then we need to know the chu got full or not


Added on March 20, 2012, 11:03 am

got it from a trader.... not lfs
*
mine is a a mgbb..by the colour and the jaw broadness..i can wildly guess that its a female..

how to know whether chu is full or not?

the scale near the dorfal fin?which one..is it only one fin or more..seriously im confused now..sorry if im asking too much.. icon_question.gif
wmkr
post Mar 20 2012, 11:12 AM

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QUOTE(Mahathir Mohamed @ Mar 20 2012, 11:07 AM)
mine is a a mgbb..by the colour and the jaw broadness..i can wildly guess that its a female..

how to know whether chu is full or not?

the scale near the dorfal fin?which one..is it only one fin or more..seriously im confused  now..sorry if im asking too much.. icon_question.gif
*
well i guess it's a female also.. the chu i can see about 70% only...still really nice aro... biggrin.gif
hou
post Mar 20 2012, 11:24 AM

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Added on March 20, 2012, 11:05 am
this aro look like cross breed between hb n low grade mg... some would call it quality hb/superhb last time... biggrin.gif
*

[/quote]

i bought it as RTG from xlsa back 2 year ago.
can tell what is the gentle?

leggedy
post Mar 20 2012, 11:24 AM

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lets try not to make this more complicated..
Golden arowana split into few category :
Red Tail Golden (RTG)
HighBack (HB)
super highback (SHB)
crossback (XB)
gold head crossback (GHXB)

RTG and HB will not have any pearl (chu, pearlies)..will never cross in terms of shine..

SHB have chances of having little pearls..very low chances of showing shine on level 6 scale..

XB will have pearls but development of pearls depends on the genetic..and how much it is gonna cross also depend on the genetic itself..will not develop shine on forehead..

GHXB..same features as XB but with additional points on forehead where shine will also develop on it..how much shine it is gonna develop on forehead will depends on the genetic
Mahathir Mohamed
post Mar 20 2012, 11:33 AM

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[quote=wmkr,Mar 20 2012, 11:12 AM]well i guess it's a female also.. the chu i can see about 70% only...still really nice aro... biggrin.gif
*

[/quote]

thanks for checking my aro out..70%?how do you see it..i guess there are some things that are better learn face to face..hmm... rclxub.gif


Added on March 20, 2012, 1:45 pm[quote=hou,Mar 20 2012, 11:24 AM]

Added on March 20, 2012, 11:05 am
this aro look like cross breed between hb n low grade mg... some would call it quality hb/superhb last time... biggrin.gif
*

[/quote]

i bought it as RTG from xlsa back 2 year ago.
can tell what is the gentle?
*

[/quote]

gentle or gender?if gender the only way i know on how to see is male have much deeper colour and more attractive,the body and the jaw is broader..female have less vibrant colour and the jaw and the body are slimmer..

if im wrong please do correct me..im still learning myself..hehe

This post has been edited by Mahathir Mohamed: Mar 20 2012, 01:45 PM
wmkr
post Mar 20 2012, 04:07 PM

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Joined: Sep 2005
user posted image

this is my ex SHBrtg


Added on March 20, 2012, 4:13 pm
QUOTE(Mahathir Mohamed @ Mar 16 2012, 05:42 PM)
Looking forward to get another mgbb..leggedy cn advice wer to find a good 1?
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got 2 piece in my home size 4-5 inch kekeke.. but if u want the price is high as at came from a very nice brooder... biggrin.gif


Added on March 20, 2012, 4:19 pm
QUOTE(kent75 @ Mar 16 2012, 03:50 PM)
Here is my Goldy. Hoho...

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nice piece kent... any other update

This post has been edited by wmkr: Mar 20 2012, 04:19 PM

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