Should be Zbrush, I don't know how to use that but I heard it's something to do with sculpting.

Good that you are getting regulars 

It's a Printrbot Simple Metal and the heatbed is a large heat sink causing the heat from the heater plate to disperse everywhere. If the room fan is running, I would max out to about 75C but without it its about 90C. I have a dedicated solid state switch with its own dedicated power supply for the heater bed but the internal resistance is higher compared to the MK2B heter plate. It takes me about 15 min to reach 90C. I thought of covering up with cardboard but my table is too small even for the printer itself. 

The heatbed is an addon, comes with a thicker aluminum bed.

Just like me, go get Sketchup. 

That works too, asking for other file format or just ask for the .stl file directly. Sketchup can export to .stl format after downloading and installing the .stl exporter from their extension warehouse. I wonder why don't they just implement the exporter in Sketchup 

Finally my next printer is working and giving good result. I have to hack it quite a bit to get it working.

[attachmentid=6175421]

Going to post the rest of the pictures in Facebook around later in the afternoon. Still editing the pictures to look nice. 

Short description, its a clone version of a Makerbot replicator but I am not too happy with the laser cut wooden frames they sent me in the kit. 

I like the wood feel but the frames are badly warped on important pieces.

Whats your next 3D printer if you don't mind me asking 

[attachmentid=6180183]

Now onto the Z axis

anyone knows where to find lead screw?

I bought mine from aliexpress.

However if you want cheap L bracket you can go to Mr DIY and get it really cheap like 5-6 ringgit or something like that for 10.
Problem is some of them are not exactly 90 degree so you probably won't be able to use some of them , maybe 3-4 pcs out of 10.

Nope, you can try but you have to either source for 25mm linear rods or 25 mm aluminum tubes or conduits. 

Nope, didn't ask for the replacement parts but rather I gave them an honest feedback (no ranting, just pointing out stuff) and they gave me a $30 gift voucher. Can buy more stuff from them later. Considering getting another Cloner in Melamine and maybe an aluminum Kossel.

You can judge the print quality for yourself based on the attached pictures. I think its worth buying for the parts than the full printer itself.

I find the MK8 makerbot nozzle they provide is very good for bridging. The PLA doesn't sag at places unlike the J-Head nozzles.

[attachmentid=6196776][attachmentid=6196777][attachmentid=6196778]

I don't know what that is called 

What I understand is that there is a slight under extrusion at certain layers, so they look like there are some minor voids making the layers discolored.

It is probably caused by the retraction parameters if turned on. I notice if the retraction distance or speed is set too high, it will pull in too much air into the melt chamber and mix with the melted plastic. Then when it extrudes, the air bubbles will cause voids in the layers. If the voids are seen on prints without any gap crossing, then its due to the moisture absorbed into the filament (happens for both PLA and ABS). You have to optimize the retraction setting by printing two cubes spaced apart so there is little stringing but doesn't pull too much air into the melt chamber.

Whether its normal or not, if it is little or not noticeable, then its fine but if there are a tons of voids, then that is not normal.

Its good to find fault with the printer since it helps improve the prints. 

You should do some test to see if it is caused by anything. Probably extruder of hotend related.

Its called banding. A z-axis artifact. I've encountered it alot. In my case it was Z axis wobble from lead screw not being perfectly aligned to its centre of rotation. Try printing a tall cube and see if it bands at regular intervals. If it does its caused by Z wobble.

Or it could be caused by your slicer rounding over the microstepping intervals like here http://www.soliforum.com/topic/1465/taxono...axis-artifacts/

Guys! I need help. My extruder arent able to extrude a constant flow of PLA. what seems to the problem here? thanks in advance.

Glad you solved it. What was the issue causing it and how did u fix it?

That is definitely caused by z-axis wobble. Mine on the other hand you highlighted is not caused by z-axis wobble rather it is cause by over retraction from the retraction parameters.
Time to clean out your nozzle.

the banding is caused by wobbles. Idk how to simplify this. Its all related to trigonometry. A shaft that is not vertical is shorter than a perfectly vertical shaft. When the z axis wobbles, ie the lead screw rotates out of align, it creates an angled line (not vertical). Hence the position of the gantry doesnt move up as high as the slicer think it has. The banding is also periodical, because the lead screw is always out of alignment the same way every rotation!

FYI you can also have Banding on the X/Y axis, you can see wavy lines periodically.
It's obvious when running direct drive at high speed.

Eg:-
http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=7605&start=75

Does anyone know how much would a custom CNC/lasercut Acrylic cost for 3d printer casing ? maybe a 3-4mm thickness will do since it is just a cover.

So, was thinking on how to make my casing cheaper and then the ikea sale ad was on radio, then it struck me , anyone here made a casing out of ikea cabinet?

Thinking of using this
http://www.ikea.com/my/en/catalog/products...0246/#/20280245
and this as the glass door
http://www.ikea.com/my/en/catalog/products...3937/#/10273938

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