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 Repraps and DIY 3D Printing!, Open source hardware~

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Prosperer
post Mar 24 2016, 04:36 PM

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QUOTE(izzudinhafiz @ Mar 23 2016, 11:30 PM)
owh movable bed design. Yeah alot higher mass and ur X axis is a bowden setup. It should be fine.
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yea movable bed, prusa i3

i think i already fix my banding issue or atleast 90% of it, by tighten the extruder screw it seem fix my problem doh.gif lol i didnt remember how long i didnt tighten my extruder and i didnt use spring with the screw also

then now i will move to y axis, try to fix and find best vref for my setting
Prosperer
post Mar 24 2016, 04:38 PM

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QUOTE(caduser @ Mar 24 2016, 02:37 PM)
corexy box project, sudah lama stop sekarang masa untuk siapkan semua

[attachmentid=6230474]
[attachmentid=6230487]
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Cool, for me, i not yet figure out how i want my z axis for my new build
Prosperer
post Mar 24 2016, 04:48 PM

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QUOTE(izzudinhafiz @ Mar 24 2016, 04:40 PM)
I have a prusa too. I dont like this design tho. Its too wobbly. I cant go above 80mm/s without it shaking too much
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I never try 80mm/s on my printer, maybe i should try later doh.gif and see how it go.

what frame do you use for your prusa? mine is acrylic and thanks god i didnt have so much problem with my frame.
Prosperer
post Mar 26 2016, 09:33 AM

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QUOTE(izzudinhafiz @ Mar 26 2016, 04:27 AM)
aluminum. But without rear braces. like the original prusa i3.

much stronger but it lacks rigidity and the resonance frequency is quite low.
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you cnc your frame? im searching to cut aluminum for my next printer bed
Prosperer
post Mar 27 2016, 11:02 PM

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user posted image

user posted image

Currently my problem only leave that much right now and i think it because the lead screw maybe confused.gif
i noticed that other area didn't appeared any artifacts from any axis movement and i print 2 of these "neko" and both happened almost at the same area.

So im still in bruce.gif moods to find the source for the problem

edit
im printing with 60mm/s

This post has been edited by Prosperer: Mar 27 2016, 11:04 PM
Prosperer
post Mar 28 2016, 12:17 AM

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QUOTE(izzudinhafiz @ Mar 27 2016, 11:47 PM)
can upload a higher res image? cant see the problem. so pixelated biggrin.gif
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user posted image
user posted image

i hope this will do it biggrin.gif
Prosperer
post Mar 28 2016, 01:01 AM

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QUOTE(izzudinhafiz @ Mar 28 2016, 12:38 AM)
vertical banding(ringing) or the horizontal banding one?
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the horizontal one
edit
and i think the vertical one is cause by slicer maybe confused.gif cause it didnt make smooth round around the outer shell, it more like zigzag (sorry i dont know how to describe it)

This post has been edited by Prosperer: Mar 28 2016, 01:05 AM
Prosperer
post Mar 28 2016, 10:33 AM

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QUOTE(izzudinhafiz @ Mar 28 2016, 02:14 AM)
last fix u can do to reduce the vertical banding is to remove the spring beneath the heated bed. replace it with nuts and washers so that its stiff. It improved my prints dramatically. CAUTION: head crash can be devastating!

As for the horizontal banding. Err. I dont know how else to improve print quality. one test you can do is to increase/decrease your step/mm for the z-axis slightly. 1 - 2 % and see if the banding moves or reduce. If it does you can confirm that there is inaccuracy in the Z-axis height. Caused by: Backlash (unlikely), vibration and wobble (more likely) or simply wrong step/mm for the z axis.

If changing step/mm doesnt affect the banding at all. Its safe to conclude that the problem DOES NOT lie in the Z-axis and may come from elsewhere. Inconsistent pressure in the hotend, slicer error or too high of a printing speed.
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I didnt use any spring on my bed, is this too high for z axis 5086 s/mm before it only at 2579s/mm and after i change my stepstick the s/mm also change.


Prosperer
post Mar 28 2016, 10:58 AM

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QUOTE(izzudinhafiz @ Mar 28 2016, 10:53 AM)
isnt 5086 too low? im assuming u're using a 8mm leadscrew. That and the DRV8825 driver can do 1/32 microstepping. Should give you 5120 step/mm.

unlike the other belt driven axis, leadscrew arent suppose to be affected by hysteresis. so using the mathematical value of 5120 should be prefered. Then if the z-axis fail to move by the desired amount, you should troubleshoot the cause for it. Mainly backlash is the cause.
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I dont know, i just adjust it cause when i print 10mm height cube it gave me 10.4mm so i adjust it and now i i can get 10mm if i ask for 10mm on all side.
Should i adjust it?
Prosperer
post Mar 28 2016, 11:22 AM

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QUOTE(Drian @ Mar 28 2016, 11:00 AM)
What is your Z resolution without microstep?

It looks like your layer height is not in multiples of your Z resolution without microstep. Do you know your lead screw specs?
Don't rely on microsteps for your resolution, the stepper will likely skip because the torque in microstep mode is way lower than the normal mode. At 1/16 microstep the torque is only 10% of your motors rated torque.

http://www.micromo.com/microstepping-myths-and-realities

The consequence is that if the load torque plus the motor’s friction and detent torque is greater than the incremental torque of a microstep successive microsteps will have to be realized until the accumulated torque exceeds the load torque plus the motor’s friction and detent torque.

Simply stated, taking a microstep does not mean the motor will actually move!  And if reversing direction is desired a whopping number of microsteps may be needed before movement occurs.  That’s because the motor shaft torque must be decremented from whatever positive value it has to a negative value that will have sufficient torque to cause motion in the negative direction.

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im printing in 0.2 layer height and according to prusa calculator i can print between 0.19375, 0.2 and 0.20625000000000002
i think my lead screw got 1mm pitch
Prosperer
post Mar 28 2016, 12:05 PM

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QUOTE(Drian @ Mar 28 2016, 12:02 PM)
Your steps/mm seems off.

if your using 2mm lead, 1.8 degree stepper

it should be

1/16 ustep, 1600s/mm
1/32 ustep, 3200s/mm
1/8  ustep,  800s/mm
even if you are using 1mm lead , the 5086 steps/mm seems a little bit off.
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thank you, i'll try the number that you and izzudinhafiz give me and check it from there, and sorry it my mistake actually i using threaded rods on my prusa not lead screw
Prosperer
post Mar 28 2016, 12:32 PM

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So i use izzudinhafiz value and get 9.8 when i print 15x15x10 cube and i adjust it and get actually 10mm on the z height with this is my current value 5278s/mm

can anyone explain why my value before i change just now and my value after i change right now is still gave the same z height?
Prosperer
post Mar 28 2016, 12:41 PM

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my mount seem ok because it acrylic and if it crack i can see it clearly, and i just allign the stepper motor lead and threaded rods last week and it seem fix a little of my banding problem and after i tighten my extruder screw the banding almost gone and right now i still figure out why it only happened on the area that i show on the pictures that i attach on few post back.

Is it consider to be banding or something else, i think i didnt has wobble problem on my printer cause i dont know how many calibration cube i print these past days and didnt see any wobble on any of them
Prosperer
post Mar 28 2016, 06:44 PM

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QUOTE(izzudinhafiz @ Mar 28 2016, 03:23 PM)
can you print a shape that has multiple height step? Like a staircase. Check the height for each level.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wAVXLAcqFQA/UaGH...00/DSCN2810.JPG

We're looking for systematic error to fix. random error caused by poor tolerance is out of our hand. thumbsup.gif
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So here is my final value after printing this 5mm calibration step 5113.49s/mm

first step = 5mm
second step = 10mm
third step =15.1mm
forth step = 20mm
fifth step 25mm

the way i measure is like this, press the caliper hard enough again the model and release to check the measurement so all the measurement is like above result
Prosperer
post Mar 28 2016, 06:50 PM

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This is what im using for anti z wobble and backlash

user posted image
Prosperer
post Mar 28 2016, 07:53 PM

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QUOTE(altan @ Mar 28 2016, 07:47 PM)
That's is a lot of nuts to change sweat.gif

If not mistaken, I bought mine for about RM 25 per 30cm leads so to me it's quite reasonably priced. I got them through another person who ordered from china.
Looks like the Z-axis bracket is quite thin. Have you observe any flexing on the bracket each time there is a change in height?
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which bracket do you mean hmm.gif
Prosperer
post Mar 29 2016, 02:08 PM

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QUOTE(izzudinhafiz @ Mar 29 2016, 01:58 PM)
hmm. your printer is printing correctly for 4/5 heights. 2 on the lowest one and 2 of the highest ones. nothing much wrong with z-axis.  hmm.gif

altan is referring to your motor mounts for the z-axis.

the anti backlash system is similar to mine  biggrin.gif
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Oh ok, it 8mm thick acrylic and i didnt see any movement on it when z axis go high or low.

So i ask similar question on reprap forum and someone answer maybe it cause by slicer setting
Prosperer
post Mar 29 2016, 02:11 PM

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QUOTE(altan @ Mar 29 2016, 02:05 PM)
Sorry for the late reply, it's the top part that the anti backlash nuts are pressed against. Also, check the motor mounts for flexing too...
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doh.gif i didnt noticed any flex on the mount, maybe i should design new one
Prosperer
post Mar 29 2016, 02:45 PM

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QUOTE(izzudinhafiz @ Mar 29 2016, 02:24 PM)
where do you get the springs? i've been trying to find spring shops
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sweat.gif i found the spring inside my tools box and can't remember where i got them and i sure i never buy a spring before biggrin.gif
Prosperer
post Mar 29 2016, 03:43 PM

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brows.gif just order more stuff that i need for my next build just now on aliexpress with the point i collect in this past week i got $8 discount blush.gif aliexpress got anniversary sale right now

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