QUOTE(wnyeen @ Jun 3 2015, 10:24 PM)
Got the filament in... Now the hotend temperature stays at 30.x... I suppose it never got heated before... How to check what when wrong?
double check your wiring again, maybe something looseRepraps and DIY 3D Printing!, Open source hardware~
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Jun 3 2015, 11:16 PM
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#41
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Jun 4 2015, 11:18 AM
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#42
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Jul 12 2015, 07:19 PM
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#43
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where can i buy abs filament here in malaysia?
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Jul 14 2015, 09:12 PM
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#44
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QUOTE(altan @ Jul 14 2015, 02:45 PM) any other suggestion bro? i open to other member suggestion, from the day i received my printer i not yet successful finish 1kg of abs since the bad experience with abs that i received with my printer, so i think i want to try printing with abs are rm90 include shipping to sarawak is best price for abs 1kg? This post has been edited by Prosperer: Jul 14 2015, 09:12 PM |
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Jul 15 2015, 09:57 AM
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#45
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QUOTE(izzudinhafiz @ Jul 15 2015, 01:52 AM) you can try PLA. they are easier to print and i assure you its less headache. my abs that i got with the printer is really bad, you can find the pictures i post here couple page back, my problem is not adhesion, it cloging my nozzle even on 260C, from there i just print with pla until now, so i think i want to try abs again how are you unable to print ABS? I;ve just started my first roll of ABS and as far as that goes my experience is print on Kapton tape at 110C and 240C on the hotend. the 110C bed temp helps adhesion, and if you still fail, turning on brim can help really well against lifting on the edges. 240C on the hotend is so i get better bonding between layers of ABS. I tried 220 and 230, but layer strength isnt so good. RM90 is about okay, Blomker sells for 90 as well not including shipping, i think its 10 bucks for shipping to semenanjung. I suggest Blomker because he is trusted and his materials are okay. Customer support also top notch and he's local. (helps alot when we have local suppliers so i try my best to support him!) @altan , the reduction in stepper temp is probably on the reduce heat from the mosfet. When mounted on the printer, the Mosfets are below the stepper so convection probably bring the heat up to the stepper drivers. since the Mosfets were at 100C-ish before, that is alot of heat. (btw how do you reply to multiple people in a single post?) Btw anyone know any reason as to why my hotend jams mid print? Both PLA and ABS. tried increasing Temp, didnt work. The motor didnt seem to skip and there wasnt any filament grinding. I let off pressure from the idler bearing and let go again and it continued printing like nothing happened (except now im missing a layer or two). Happens on long prints only.. |
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Jul 15 2015, 02:50 PM
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#46
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QUOTE(altan @ Jul 15 2015, 11:24 AM) For replying to multiple quote, just click on the quote button (bottom right and can select more than one) of each post then click on add reply button at the end of the page. Its really strange to see the extruder motor not skipping and not grinding the filament at the same time. Usually if it grinds, its means the stepper drivers are still doing its job and its likely caused by the hotend or the filament. As for skipping, this happens when the stepper driver are overheated or the pot adjustment is too low. Since it is long term, most probable answer for skipping is the stepper drivers are overheating. Another thing I suspect for those symptoms is the extruder motor cables could have come loose during prints (on the motor end). I had a faulty extruder motor that sort of fidgets (not turn properly and doesn't cause grinding) early or halfway through the print and it was caused by the repetitive loosening of the cable on the motor side. I push and press the cable end into the stepper and it magically works and this means one of the wire in one of the four is probably damaged. I think since we normally don't tie down the motor cable end to the motor/platform and we leave it hanging free, the movement in the Y or X axis causes the cable to wear internally and causes the wires to disconnect from the stepper. Anyway long story short, try to change your stepper motor for the extruder and also cable tie the cable to the motor. Make sure to leave some slack on the cable motor end. My advice for you is to get an all-metal hot end and not use the PEEK barrel J-Heads which are not actually spec for ABS printing. Some all-metal have a teflon tubing inside and it will still work for ABS but you might have to buy the teflon sleeve replacements. I suspect the J-Head PEEK barrel doesn't form a proper thermal barrier between the hotend and the filament input end and causes the whole ABS filament to soften and jam up mid barrel. Another solution to try is to add a small fan pointing towards the barrel so it will assist in dissipating the heat and forms a good heat gradient profile. |
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Jul 23 2015, 03:59 PM
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#47
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QUOTE(dadudeneverabides @ Jul 23 2015, 01:52 AM) Purchase a diy kit bro, or you can follow bill of material of which 3d printer you want and find it locally. And dont forget to do research and youtube for 3d printer, Prusa i3 is easy to buildIm start by buying a kit from aliexpress prusa i3 but i dont recommended it cause you will stuck their firmware only, better find something that you can tweak around with so that you will know about your 3d printer from the mechanical, electronic and firmware. with little browse maybe this is ok? prusa i3 it also come with 2kg of filament or maybe other otai here can suggest you better printer |
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Nov 16 2015, 08:13 PM
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#48
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Guys any new source where to get filament here in msia beside yume and lelong?
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Mar 3 2016, 10:42 PM
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#49
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Anyone know where i can get aluminum profile 20x20 here in malaysia? i'm contact misumi malaysia but they only accept order from company.
I still need 10pcs more to complete my list for corexy |
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Mar 5 2016, 01:39 PM
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#50
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Journey to build second 3d printer start
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Mar 6 2016, 03:03 PM
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#51
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Nice, share your build also
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Mar 6 2016, 07:37 PM
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#52
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QUOTE(kalkamel @ Mar 6 2016, 06:25 PM) Does anyone offer service for assembling a Prusa i3 kit plus calibration? I may be able to get my hands on one but I just don't have the time to put it together. Check out @altan salepage here https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=3843739# i think he offer services for assembling and calibration for rm500 fee. If you from kuching then i can help |
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Mar 9 2016, 03:51 PM
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#53
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QUOTE(altan @ Mar 8 2016, 12:21 PM) Thanks for the recommendation Prosperer No problem bro.And here rough design i made for the gear, ![]() ![]() ![]() and how do you made the attach pic small here |
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Mar 10 2016, 12:05 AM
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#54
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Thanks for the link, it seems that i must resize the pictures on the hosting site before post the links here.
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Mar 10 2016, 12:16 AM
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#55
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The gear was design in freecad, i also still learn how to use freecad and if it basic design i got no problem with it, yesterday my friend ask me to design for him tattoo machine frame with provided dimension and i think i did a good job with the 3d drawing and charging him for small fee also
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Mar 10 2016, 01:34 AM
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#56
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the pressure angle of the gear teeth is 20 i think, and the gear teeth is 42. thanks for the info for the parametric drawing i'll sure do find tutorial about it, i didnt has any knowledge on 3d design before and after i bought 3d printer i really into 3d designing and fail alot also
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Mar 14 2016, 06:16 PM
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#57
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Mar 15 2016, 01:26 PM
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#58
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14hrs printing with abs without bottom wrapping
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Mar 15 2016, 05:16 PM
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#59
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QUOTE(altan @ Mar 15 2016, 04:20 PM) Really nice print there! That is my customer uncle that he design i dont know with what program, he even show me the picture, and i glad it look the same Your heated bed must have been set really high to minimize the warping. Does not appear to have used brim which I have to use in all my ABS print to prevent warping. Your 3D printer is enclosed in a box or was it printed in the open? i set my heated bed 110C usually i print abs around 100-110C for longer print i choose 110C my printer is open and i just block the back, upper and side with cardbox This post has been edited by Prosperer: Mar 15 2016, 05:17 PM |
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Mar 15 2016, 06:33 PM
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QUOTE(altan @ Mar 15 2016, 06:04 PM) That uncle must be a pro at modeling or he got someone to design it for him. hahaha, i meant that the guy create the model is using zbrush( or something brush) if im not mistaken and he create his uncle 3d model for me to print Lucky you can manage 110C unlike mine which maxes out to 90C in a really hot and unventilated room. I already print 2 design for him and he said there more for me to print what printer do you use and why limit at 90C only? not enough amp? edit: and my heat bed setting is cardboard that i wrap with aluminum foil below the heatbed itself in the middle and aluminum or glass platform above i can reach 100C in 5min if i cover all side of my printer except front side This post has been edited by Prosperer: Mar 15 2016, 06:38 PM |
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