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 Repraps and DIY 3D Printing!, Open source hardware~

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KLKS
post Jan 30 2015, 01:32 PM

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i do it by agak2, hasn't failed me so far smile.gif. Normally check the bed after every 5-7 prints.
KLKS
post Feb 2 2015, 02:38 PM

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abs juice looks abit thick no?
KLKS
post Feb 3 2015, 03:20 PM

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QUOTE(eehtsitna @ Feb 3 2015, 02:49 PM)
Eh? The nozzle is part of the heating block? I thought i read somewhere that its actually separate part. Anyway, thanks for pointing out that it is most likely too much trouble trying to switch the hotend/nozzle around all the time. I might as well get a second printer with a different nozzle size. tongue.gif

Have been looking high and low for a housing. Will try to look for it again tonight. biggrin.gif
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Nozzle is a separate part, if ur not in a hurry, just order one online. as for housing, search thingiverse or design your own smile.gif
KLKS
post Feb 4 2015, 09:16 AM

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http://www.yumeprinter.com/product-category/filament/

I've been seeing these guys post in some fb groups i'm in, not sure about quality but price is def cheap smile.gif
KLKS
post Feb 4 2015, 10:18 AM

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QUOTE(DarkTenno @ Feb 4 2015, 09:55 AM)
converted my mendelmax 1.5 to something diffrent, still need to recalibrate Z and bed leveling my inductive sensor decide to fail on me so have to manually level the bed now  vmad.gif, changed the heated to aluminum heatbed but I can't get the dam thing to heat up too 110c, I only able to heat it up to 80c never go beyond that I'm using 12v 30A power supply and only heating the bed my extruder have no problem getting to 230c smile.gif seem the printer does not want to print ABS just yet  cry.gif

plus last week the green ramps connector melted on me, I always see warning about the connector melting and I see it first hand smile.gif, and any idea on the heat bed, don't really want to install back my mk2a heat bed to test lol
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I like your workbench, as messy as mine biggrin.gif
Also check the transistor that heats the heatbed and see if its overheating, if it is, could be why it cant reach 110, the thermal protection may have kicked in.
http://forum.felixprinters.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=595

This post has been edited by KLKS: Feb 4 2015, 10:23 AM
KLKS
post Feb 4 2015, 12:31 PM

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ship them with tracking number.
KLKS
post Feb 4 2015, 12:40 PM

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QUOTE(DarkTenno @ Feb 4 2015, 12:35 PM)
problem with those ebay sellers when I asked to ship with tracking they always say it expensive even thought I already said I willing to pay the shipping cost and yet normally they will just ignore my request and end up getting 2 star for my feedback tongue.gif
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Time to switch to aliexpress smile.gif
KLKS
post Feb 5 2015, 08:19 AM

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I'm using repetier host with cura/slic3r
KLKS
post Feb 5 2015, 02:01 PM

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QUOTE(altan @ Feb 4 2015, 10:59 PM)
The proper term for G-code generator is slicer. I am using Cura 14 as the slicer and the host software is Octoprint on the Raspberry Pi.

IMO, easiest slicer and host to use is Cura and Pronterface (now called Printrun for the GUI version).

Other known slicers out there: Slic3r (Tons of parameters to play with) and KisSlicer.

Other host: Repetier Host and Makerware (works for makerbots only)

Firmware is a bit difficult to determine for my printer but as far as I know, it should be a heavily modified Marlin for the Printrboard Rev D.
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Have you dumped the eeprom settings using M503 and comparing it to stock? I know the repetier-firmware has alot of setting that is saved in eeprom
http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M503:_Print_settings


This post has been edited by KLKS: Feb 5 2015, 02:03 PM
KLKS
post Feb 12 2015, 03:47 PM

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QUOTE(DarkTenno @ Feb 12 2015, 12:35 PM)
manage to get my aluminum heatbed to heat up to 100c but it will never pass 105c, I have to bump up my power supply to 14v in order for it to get to 100c if the bed only getting 12v it will never able to reach 100c as claim by 3dprinter.my

Did contacting via email but never got any reply calling them always said need to check with technician not sure when but never got any reply ever since, adding no so good review on their product pages obviously wont get approved by them

to prove my point I connected the heated bed to a power supply directly and monitor the temp via my IR thermometer with 12v max it can go only to 90c, when I bumped the voltage 14v (equal to supplying more power to it) it able to ge to 105c and stop there

heated bed work fine if you printing PLA but if you guys plan to print ABS be aware that those aluminum heated bed sold by 3dprinter.my will not heat up too 100c with 12v power supply I guessing you will need at least 15v or probably 24v to the heated bed
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Did you try measuring how many Amps the bed was pulling vs total amps pushable by the power supply?
KLKS
post Feb 19 2015, 10:51 AM

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QUOTE(eehtsitna @ Feb 18 2015, 08:12 AM)
Howdy guys!

Just wondering does everyone lubricate their outer side of their bearing from time to time? Mine seems to be rusting. sad.gif
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Yeah i put oil from time to time, mines starting to rust abit, you could try sourcing stainless steal bearings. the bearings from china are just normal steel ones.

QUOTE(ishe7ata @ Feb 19 2015, 10:43 AM)
Guys,
Has anybody paied taxes on their Prusa i3 Full DIY kit Shipped from China?
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My friend did, paid around RM150, it depends on how much the declared value the seller puts.

QUOTE(sooyewguan @ Feb 19 2015, 09:01 AM)
Happny CNY to all.

Tried to first print ABS with my printer yesterday, the print was ok, but the smell jst horrible compred to P
LA. I read that ABS fume is toxic.

Does anyone printed with ABS before? How you guys deal with the fume and smell?
*
Ventilation helps smile.gif

This post has been edited by KLKS: Feb 19 2015, 10:53 AM
KLKS
post Feb 22 2015, 03:15 PM

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2nd Prusa i3 up and running, this time using ramps 1.4 and 400w PSU. I did abit of power measurements, the hotend pulled about 3 amps and the heatbed about 7.
Also noticed that the PSU couldnt regulate the 12v properly, after a while it dipped to about 11.5. Must be one of em cheap PSU's

Attached Image

Made a custom holder for the ramps,fan and mosfet heatsink, moved the mosfets onto a heatsink.

Attached Image

This post has been edited by KLKS: Feb 22 2015, 03:19 PM
KLKS
post Feb 22 2015, 03:43 PM

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QUOTE(ishe7ata @ Feb 22 2015, 03:36 PM)
Hey man,
Where did you buy the kit?? Or did you assemble things yourself?
I plan on buying a kit I want to get most of things locally.
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My first i3 was a kit (from aliexpress), 2nd i3 (the one pictured above) is assembled from parts, 90% of which is from aliexpress. Things which i bought locally were the smooth rods, afew bearings, and screws and bolts.
KLKS
post Feb 22 2015, 09:12 PM

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This is the store i bought from on aliexpress
http://www.aliexpress.com/store/319147
Paid about 440USD shipped incl 2 rolls of fillament, was lucky didn't kena tax.

This post has been edited by KLKS: Feb 22 2015, 09:16 PM
KLKS
post Feb 22 2015, 09:19 PM

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I just chanced upon this while browsing aliexpress, looks pretty good

http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Ho...2026704108.html
KLKS
post Feb 23 2015, 10:58 AM

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Have you tried printing at 190-195, i've had to up the temp of some PLA prints to 210 just so there's layer adhesion. Sometimes it can be a clogged nozzle because of poor quality fillament. Maybe post some pictures?
KLKS
post Feb 23 2015, 01:08 PM

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QUOTE(DarkTenno @ Feb 23 2015, 01:05 PM)
I was not planning to print ABS at all actually, Just heating the hotend to get it melt my PLA smile.gif, the arrow show where some plastic leaked out, I haven't really got the chance to dissemble it yet from my printer, from the picture also you can see the thermistor location is badly placed from my point of view smile.gif

I'll sent you PM smile.gif

[attachmentid=4349139]
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Isnt that where the grub screws go in? If the grubscrew fits snugly, there shouldnt be any leakage.
KLKS
post Feb 25 2015, 11:02 AM

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If its not broken, don't break it smile.gif
KLKS
post Feb 25 2015, 11:41 AM

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If you are using repetier host, u can do that from within the software, doesn't require messing with the firmware.
KLKS
post Mar 2 2015, 11:02 AM

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QUOTE(eehtsitna @ Mar 2 2015, 10:58 AM)
Sounds like a similar issue with mine and i have yet to figure out a solution for that. I tried swapping a new RAMPS and yet the mosfet in the new RAMPS seems to be over heating too.

That aside, does any one have a good spool holder which you would recommend? Printed out one over the weekend but it does not function that well.
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If your comfortable with a soldering iron, you could move the mosfets over to a heatsink block and put a fan over it. That's what i did (see the pic afew posts ago)


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