Happy New Year and my very first failed print!

40 hour print failed because my 1 year + PLA printed Z-Axiz coupler decided to fail on me.

Drillz of the prehistoric human child skull a client ask me to print... A real waste.

I met a guy selling that epoxy coating set for RM 90 during Comic Fiesta. I will send you his contact via PM if I can find his business card.

Got pic of the brass connector? If it was my case, I would 3D print a smooth rod holder instead .

OK, so the LCD is working now?

BTW, very nice steel frame, I would have painted it...

The frame did not come warped?

This post has been edited by altan: Jan 12 2016, 11:47 AM

Hey everyone, I am stocking and selling spare parts for RepRap printers.

You can check it out at [WTS] 3D Printer & Reprap Parts / Accessories / Spare / Replacement Parts.

Anyone interested can PM me and COD available around PJ area.

This post has been edited by altan: Jan 19 2016, 11:46 PM


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I have both DRV8825 and A4988. I will PM you the price.

This post has been edited by altan: Jan 24 2016, 01:54 AM

Should put a picture of your print bed so we get a better idea of your setup.

Did you clamp down the glass sheet with binder clips? Is it a heated print bed and was the heater running?

When you level the 4 corners , was the nozzle touching the bed without gap or small gap?

This post has been edited by altan: Jan 26 2016, 12:49 PM

Alright, that is good. Since the difference is about 0.1mm I have a suggestion, you can set your first layer thickness to at least 0.2mm or more depending on nozzle size. By doing that there will be some squishing but that is fine as long as the first layer sticks to the bed. If the centre drops in/curve inwards, then need to relevel the Nozzle into the bed corners by 0.1mm to prevent lifting in the centre.

Did you mean G clamps? Other solution is to 3D print ABS clips that will give just the right pressure.

Finally my setup for ABS is a success but the prints are delaminating when bent along the layers for thin structures. I wasn't expecting 3D printed ABS to be inferior to PLA. Drillz included.

The most budge friendly RepRap is still the Prusa i3. There are not many RepRap variants sold in Malaysia other than the Mendel, Rostock/kossel, and Prusa. On the other hand, if you have the budget for anything more than 2.5k then I would recommend getting a consumer 3D printer that's fully assemble (if you are not the adventurous type). Just note that a lot of these desktop 3D printer vary in price and the price absolutely does not guarantee reliablility. Even an expensive Makerbot can get jams and print issues compared to cheaper clones like the Flashforge for the same specs.

My advice is to read up about 3D printers first or ask about other people experience before deciding on getting a 3D printer.

If you just want to print a few things, then I would recommend using a 3D printing service as seen in my signature below.

This post has been edited by altan: Feb 13 2016, 02:44 AM

A RepRap can achieve consumer grade prints by sourcing quality hardware (linear rods, lead screws, frame, electronics, design, etc) and optimising the settings for the electronics and firmware. In other words, RepRap aren't consumer grade printers unless you intentionally put in the time, money, and effort to redesign and build a consumer grade RepRap printer. RepRap gives you the basic framework to barely print something but a lot of development is needed to make it a great 3D printer.

I always have second thought about buying a kit from any seller because theses kits may have parts that aren't up to standard.

Also, hihi recently built a Prusa i3 steel and he might be able to share some insights on his printer. If he is still active.

Refer to page 72 in this topic for the steel frames. https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/2249129/+1420

Sourcing for the chrome plated linear bearings locally is expensive, so I suggest try taobao or eBay. Same for electronics as well.

You can get the hotend set from me. See my sig below.

Wow nice.

How did the x-axis motor mount break? Was the plastic part printed with ABS or PLA?

Aluminium would be expensive and probably some machine shops may not make it for you considering the design of the part. I don't think any company would stock Prusa i3 printable parts in aluminum.

I also really hate it when the hotend crashes into the build plate. I think better if the part breaks or else if it keeps going without stopping, the aluminum couplers will deform from continuous stretching.

Thread activity died down a while a go. Now picking up speed I think.

Me currently busy fulfilling 3D printing orders from clients.

A little overloaded right now and its almost time for me to buy a second 3D printer.

Thanks but for that to happen, I will need to invest in setting up a metal fab workshop and also do a proper survey on the number of 3D printer owners in Malaysia. I can keep supplies but if no one wants to buy them then I have a lot more than I can use for maintaining my current printer.

Nope but I have seen someone made a small 3D printer with that design. Why don't you buy a new set of linear rods and bearings instead of dismantling the Prusa i3. You can sell the assembled Prusa i3 to someone who wants to get into RepRap quickly.

Also, you might need to purchase really long GT2 timing belt since the corexy design utilizes long belt lengths. The belt follows along the 3 sides of the printer frame and loops on towards the centre so, the length depends on the perimeter of the printer size.

Good to know there a shop selling linear rails in KL for a reasonable price, provided if you want to spend that kind of money.

Nowadays you can get stuff delivered from ebay within 2 - 4 weeks even for economy shipping. Obviously there is still that randomness factor but my last batch of shipping all came within 2 weeks.

By the way, I have a 10 meter roll of GT2 timing belt.

PMed you for your Prusa i3.

Also, the rails are considered better than the linear rods since, they are usually made with hardened steel (very hard to bend and never flexes). I worked with one reprap printer using these rails and they are way better than linear rods and bearings since you only need one rail each to support a build platform or extruder in the 2 horizontal axis. You can use 2 rails for the z-axis, placed on two ends of one side of the printer against the wall.

ABS is very difficult to print for first time users. PLA is an easy alternative but trade off between s the material property.

For ABS printing, never use an external cooling fan at all even during bridging. The cooling fan causes severe warping and causes uneven temperature around the print. This will lead to uneven heights and even cracks.

I find that printing ABS requires no air flow and steady environment temperature.

A picture with a ruler will help a lot for us. I am assuming the gear is a nylon gear.