Thanks for the recommendation Prosperer

Other than Taulman Tech G filament, I can pay a visit to my filament supplier in Singapore for PETG filaments. They are selling 1 kg spools of PETG for SGD 80. Refer here: http://web.qwikfab.com/3D-Printer-Filament/Q-PETG-Filament . You could order from them directly but I recently they are busy with some projects so there will be some delay in shipping. If you order from them, let them know altan recommended them. Since I am making a trip to SG tonight, I could purchase a spool for you when I am there but I will charge an inconvenience fee. Let me know ASAP.

Looks like it is printable, just need someone to design it and someone to 3D print it in ABS.

Actually I have a 3D scanner, its an Intel Realsense camera but it's only good for head scan. It can do object scans but if the object is small then a lot of fine features are missing. It's good for getting the general shape but any 3D scans will still require some form of editing. Currently not opening the scanning service to public yet.

I don't mind duplicating the part for you but there will be a long delay since currently my printer is heavily utilized and I am on a short business trip for the entire week.

having to design in 3D is one thing but have to consider designing the model for a 3D printing.

Stuff like this I would use solid modelling software like openscad or solidworks.

You might want to find some .scad files for gears at Thingiverse. It will really help speed things up when making gear parts.

That is fast

As for your question, see post #10 in https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1403940/all

I tried BBcode for IMG resize buy don't seem to work.

Hi everyone, I just bought a few reels of PETG filament (black and white color) and if anyone wants to try a small sample you can PM me for it.

I am selling them for RM 15 per 50g, can request for larger amount.

COD at Tropicana City Mall or Poslaju for additional RM 6.

I will show you guys some PETG prints once I optimized my 3D printer for it.

This post has been edited by altan: Mar 11 2016, 02:41 PM

PETG has higher working temp than PLA and does not warp compared to ABS. Apparently, it is claimed that it takes the best properties of both PLA and ABS while having high strength and flexibility.

You can read more about it by searching about Taulman Tech-G PETG filaments. There are some blogs and 3d news saying good things about it.
http://3d-printizer.com/blog/?p=268
http://3dprintingindustry.com/2015/10/30/t...ilament-tech-g/

I heard it is easier to print like PLA as compared to nylon and ABS but I have not tried them yet since I just got the filaments yesterday. So, I can't comment further on a material I just got but I have seen really impressive samples made with PETG.

Only cons is the difficult support removal.

Using HIPS or PVA for soluble support?

I have ideas of trying out dissolvable filaments but could not find a local supplier for both materials.

I don't know about printing in PVA but it is said PVA is really difficult to store due to the hygroscopic property, especially in our humid environment. Since support material not need to be nice but I wonder what the humidity can do to the material. Maybe it will cause the PVA to spit water vapour during prints.

It would be great support with PLA and Flexible filaments since they droop during prints. ABS bridging seems good without fan for me so I doubt it needs dissolvable support.

About storing filaments, I had issues with storing black ABS as it forms pores on the print surface due to water vapour. Apparently the black pigment is the cause as the pigment is hygroscopic. I have to bake the black ABS in an oven for a few hours just to improve the print quality.

Good suggestion, now need to clear some space and find one cheap one. I thought of making a dry box using an array of thirsty hippo.

Definitely will put a short review about PETG. Currently can't find the time to experiment with it now.

I have tried using vacuum bags and its quite effective for long term storage. Though it requires vacuuming every few months just to maintain the vacuum but the plastic material is very fragile. It easily gets punctured after vacuum due to poor handling and sharp edges in the bag. That's why the vacuum bags are designed for clothes and soft material. I have to be very careful with the bags and breaking vacuum several times just to get one spool out of half a dozen isn't very convenient.

I have not tried thirsty hippo in vacuum but would be great if I can find a large vacuum seal box for it.

I think the moisture would be pulled out of the drying agent in vacuum.

Really nice print there! Is that a scanned model or hand modeled?

Your heated bed must have been set really high to minimize the warping. Does not appear to have used brim which I have to use in all my ABS print to prevent warping.

Your 3D printer is enclosed in a box or was it printed in the open?

This post has been edited by altan: Mar 15 2016, 04:22 PM

That uncle must be a pro at modeling or he got someone to design it for him.

Lucky you can manage 110C unlike mine which maxes out to 90C in a really hot and unventilated room.

I would have also thought of using cardboard as cover and heat insulator...

Should be Zbrush, I don't know how to use that but I heard it's something to do with sculpting.

Good that you are getting regulars

It's a Printrbot Simple Metal and the heatbed is a large heat sink causing the heat from the heater plate to disperse everywhere. If the room fan is running, I would max out to about 75C but without it its about 90C. I have a dedicated solid state switch with its own dedicated power supply for the heater bed but the internal resistance is higher compared to the MK2B heter plate. It takes me about 15 min to reach 90C. I thought of covering up with cardboard but my table is too small even for the printer itself.

The heatbed is an addon, comes with a thicker aluminum bed.

Just like me, go get Sketchup.

This post has been edited by altan: Mar 16 2016, 12:43 AM

That works too, asking for other file format or just ask for the .stl file directly. Sketchup can export to .stl format after downloading and installing the .stl exporter from their extension warehouse. I wonder why don't they just implement the exporter in Sketchup

Finally my next printer is working and giving good result. I have to hack it quite a bit to get it working.

Seems to make sense now but all this time never really notice the difference when I work with Blender and exporting to .stl.

That is why is always good practice to check the slicer simulation/layer by layer view to make sure prints turn out accordingly.

Going to post the rest of the pictures in Facebook around later in the afternoon. Still editing the pictures to look nice.

Short description, its a clone version of a Makerbot replicator but I am not too happy with the laser cut wooden frames they sent me in the kit.

I like the wood feel but the frames are badly warped on important pieces.

Whats your next 3D printer if you don't mind me asking

Yea, I do expect warping but not to a severe extend. I guess I wasn't lucky enough to get a nice piece. I have seen a wooden flash forge printer and those guys who maintain it was able to print in PC and the frames were not warped.

I am thinking of getting the melamine version which is actually particle board used in making low cost shelves. They claim it has no warpage but I think the strength is questionable.


I just check and yes anyone can view my Facebook, just click on the link in my signature below.


I would have gone for the aluminium extrusion/sheet or steel sheet if it was available but for a 450 dollars including shipping and tax, I just can't pass off this deal.

3D printed plastics isn't weak, rather its just flexible compared to metal which makes them not ideal frame/ joints. Acrylic flexes too, that's why I would avoid them for frames if possible. I have printed some U bars with PLA at 80% fill and 8 mm thickness, and these thing doesn't flex much but does twist radially by a lot. I think there must be a design that minimize the twisting effect. They are hard to break because the layers are on the longest length.

Yes I printed flexible fan mounts using FlexPLA and it keeps fan running smooth and quiet. I wouldn't use them on stepper motor since the footing would be loose. I wouldn't recommend Ninjaflex becasue it is very soft and stretchy, it's great for making flexible robot joints or grippy surfaces. FlexPLA is also flexible but much stiffer like rubberized phone cases. I would use that for generally anything and is slightly cheaper and more available than Ninjaflex.

On a side note, the printer I just built is producing wonderful results. I will post some pictures here once I get my spool holder done.

Nope, you can try but you have to either source for 25mm linear rods or 25 mm aluminum tubes or conduits.