I have a Makerbot Replicator Mini for sale. Usual price is RM4999 but I might consider letting it go for the cheap although might still be above your budget. But being a fully built system, it would be easier for a beginner to use than to get a Reprap

I only have a budget of around 2k for my next printer. Where did you get the mini if you didn't intend on using it?

I have a Makerbot Replicator Mini for sale. Usual price is RM4999 but I might consider letting it go for the cheap although might still be above your budget. But being a fully built system, it would be easier for a beginner to use than to get a Reprap

whats the difference between that and a reprap? 

A reprap is a modular 3D printer that comes mainly in kit form and has to be assembled. It is the cheapest way to enter into 3D printing , but it involves a lot of patience and skill to build it correctly before you can start getting good prints.

Ah I helped my company win it during a competition and they gave it to me instead but now I think it might be too underutilised if I were to use it so I prefer to exchange it for something more useful.

oh cool....so your unit is PNP?

Then you must be the guy who won first prize in the company category. I was the second place guy in the individual category. 

Yup it's PNP, minimal setup
Yup! Grats to you! small world =D

Yup it's PNP, minimal setup
Yup! Grats to you! small world =D

Guys!

I have bought a PEEK J-head extruder recently but to my surprise the area where the j-head touches the heat cube started to melt when i fire up the  heat cartridge. When I took the extruder apart, i found that not only the contact area around the j-head and heat cube have melted but the thread inside the j-head also seems to have melted by the heat transmitted by the barrel. Is this suppose to be normal or did i bought a faulty extruder?

Thanks in advance.

I guess you got yourself a faulty thermistor in the J-head hotend.

I had that happen to me before and it was really funny. The hotend was working like normal for a few months and suddenly one day I sense a funny plastic smell and the next thing I realize was the heating block melting the PEEK barrel and fell off the barrel. I was lucky to have noticed it and identified the problem as faulty thermistor because the host could not reach the set point temperature and continuously heat the hotend till it fell off.

You might want to get a replacement for that.

Hey,

Im having trouble getting my hotend plus heatbed getting up to temperature for printing ABS. Target temp is 230 for hotend and 110 for heatbed. but only either one can get to the targeted temp.

Alreaedy tried insulating the hotend. Temp is accurate, so the thermistor is no issue. Any ideas? Had some google posts suggesting i shud change my MOSFETS.

Yes, try changing the MOSFET for the heated bed as suggested or get a SSR switch rated for 12v DC and high current (15Amps and above) as a switch for the heated bed.

The heated bed is normally difficult to be maintained at the setpoint temperature due to the high heat loss vs input power.

My prob was due to faulty power adapter...got my replacement from blomker.my and it's printing now.

Now got another issue , it freeze while printing halfway. Read some forum and seem motor driver over heated.  Is this common? Manage to finish printing on 2nd attempt with a mini fan blowing the ramp.

Also, what is the latest version of marlin/slic3r/pronterface for kossel? Only manage to run on software from blomker.my and not the latest version

The stepper drivers can be adjusted without measuring voltages, by observing motor performance. Use a nonmetal screwdriver (plastic or ceramic) to avoid short circuits. Either run a print (preferably one that's been causing motor issues) or set up manual control using an LCD Controller, or Repetier Host, or Pronterface. CAREFULLY turn the pot fully CW (minimum current) then back CCW about 1/4 turn, or enough to make the motor run smoothly. From that point, if you are able to adjust while the motor is moving (either in a print or under manual control) turn the trimpot CW until the motor starts to stall or stutter, then turn CCW until steady performance resumes. Otherwise, alternate adjusting the pot slightly and then running the motor, with the same results in mind. The general idea is to find a low current setting that results in stalling or stuttering, and then boost the current a bit to get reliable motion without going too far CCW.

if i went with the SSR method i need to change my marlin config for bang-bang for the heatbed right? no way the SSR can keep up with the PID switching frequency

My prob was due to faulty power adapter...got my replacement from blomker.my and it's printing now.

Now got another issue , it freeze while printing halfway. Read some forum and seem motor driver over heated.  Is this common? Manage to finish printing on 2nd attempt with a mini fan blowing the ramp.

Also, what is the latest version of marlin/slic3r/pronterface for kossel? Only manage to run on software from blomker.my and not the latest version