Hi Tom, wonder do you have experience in doing a concrete fish pond? especially a koi pond.

Read from page 1 and some tips is really good advice. Any chance of sharing the formula anymore?

Currently managing 3-4 types of contractor and from experience, you have to really firm and not let them 'climb all over' you... most of them will take the  easiest way out to do things and give their own 'justifications'...

Hi Tomjason,

Could you please help to advice whether my contractor is doing it right? Or anything wrong? I don't mean to doubt him but it is better to be safe than sorry since it is going to be a double storey back extension.

The extension area is 18 x 8 feet. He said the steels are 12mm thick, and the depth of the 3 beams are 4 feet each (has to be slightly deeper than the lower back lane).

He said that the floor steels (not sure the proper phrase) will be laid and hooked on to the delibrately exposed beams of the house. Is that correct?

Thank you.

Congrat on the new baby! Upgraded to fatherhood 

Thank you so much for the valuable advice. 

Thanks again Tomjason. Unfortunately, the contractor already pour cement on them; anyway, he assures me they are stable and won't collapse. I told him if the roof collapse and crushed me to death, I will become a ghost and sit on his shoulder like the Thai movie Shutter..LOL (evil laugh).

Hi tomjason,

My bathroom is divided into 2 areas, wet (shower place) and dry. In between is a wall and window to separate the 2 areas. I ask the contractor to remove all the fixed glass louvre panels because they look old-fashion and hard to clean (need to clean 1 glass piece at a time), and replace with a flat piece of tempered glass instead. But didn't realize that after removing the original glass panels and glass frame holders, the screw holes in the main aluminium frame will be so obvious. Any idea how to cover them up? Need it to be water proof, so that when wash the bathroom, the water won't seep in the holes...and also won't come out when scrub/wash with the green colour scrubber (the type that use to clean the sink). Contractor said to cement up the holes and paint, worried that it may end up looking even uglier and paint may come out when scrub with the green colour scrubber    Any idea what to do? Please advice... Others are also welcomed to comment. Thanks!

tomjason, can I use the grout filler for some small holes ..just want to use what is already in the house...should be ok right since its for tiles should be able to withstand some moisture

Hi tomjason,

Thanks so much for your advice. That's why I was a bit skeptical when he said to cement up... I searched online, does the 'pop rivet' looks like this? Also, which type should I go for...seems like got flat head, round head type, how big/long, material (stainless steel?), etc...     


How to use the pop rivet? Can I just hammer it in using normal hammer or need to buy this type of special tool (found online also):


After the pop rivet is inside the hole, will it be water proof and cover the hole completely, or still need to cover up with sealant or something? Also, will it be flat against the aluminium frame, or will have the head sticking out like sticks/little pins (based on the 1st picture above)? Please advice... Thanks!

Hi Tomjason, I have pm you with some questions, hope you can help to advice.

What troubling me is the progressive payments to contractor. So far I have paid him 60% but the works done (from my point of view) is not near 50%.

My colleague told me I should NOT pay the contractor in 'advance' after the initial advance deposit of 30%, instead I should only pay the contractor AFTER the agreed completed works. But if I don't pay my contractor in 'advance' for works to be done, he threatens not to start work, and every week he will call me and chase for payment like Ah Long.

The contractor is doing his work, but just that the progress (from my point of view) is slow in comparison to the amount of $$ that I have been giving him, and it is only 1 and 1/2 months since the work started.

Can anyone please advice?

Hey hey Tomjason

My wooden floor strips are a little damaged.. Coz no protection from the hot sun and weathering.. Any suggestion how to make it look better..

WHY??

Condolence to you n yr family. How old is he

Sorry to hear that. Condolences to you and your family. be strong, he's in a better place

im so sorry to hear tht
p/s: im feel a bit sad, after reading from 1st page & wanna ask for advice 
any1 kindly enough to share the formula tht tomjason gave u & plaster ceiling squence, pls PM me 

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hi, very infomative/tips thread and i spent a midnight to read...

When i read until page 38......

Very sad and sorry to hear for your loss, condolence to your family...be strong and may god strengthen you...

Hi Tomjason.

My condolences to you n your family.

It is very informative knowledge you had shared with us.

I am also in the middle renovating my house.

I have a few question.

1) Do you think it is adequate to use Y16 bar to extend the car porch as in the picture below. My contractor use Y16 and we have remove the center column so we can get wide span free column to my car porch.


2) What shoould i do for the discharge sewage pipe which is close to the manhole wall (the very left pipe). I did ask the contractor to hack more to the wall so that the flow of the sewage are not block by the wall. What say u.


3) In addition, when the contractor lay the sewage pipe, at the bend/corner they not construct a manhole due to reason that my perimeter drain will cross at the junction. they use the 45degree bend. as shown below (the bend has been covered with earth).



4) What do you think about this plaster ceiling support. is it adequate i mean in term of spacing?


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

1. Question 1)

For this, Y16 is sufficient if you do not want to have centre column, ip possible use Y16 (BS). Secondly , since you don’t have centre pillar,it is very important the size of the beam to carry the weight. Min is more than 1 feet..1 ½ feet for centre column is sufficient. The bigger the better. From the picture, I can say pass. Pls ensure the new beam is connect to the existing beam properly.

My suggestion is to have the angle beam is the best as my picture below red color (hope you understand)

Yes sir, the new rebar are extended 2 feet inside the original beam. Further the original beam are also deepen (add additional 2 bottom bar

Attached Image

2. Second Question

For normal sewage man hole is 18x24 inches, this because normal ready man steel cover is 18x24…that why ur contractor do not want to make the main hole bigger……your contractor has made mistake cause the 2 pairs were too much a part. From the picture, I don’t give pass to the second pair of the pipe..sure sangkut…
Since it is already nearly completed, what you can do is, to place angle / corner clay drain (clay drain have corner and straight). Below is my suggestion:

Attached Image

Meaning ask the contractor to install 45 degree bend at the tip of the pipe?
3. 3rd question:
Your contractor has made mistake, as my previous post, corner advisable to have main hole. It become worst if the pipe share with sink waste…if clog at the corner/bend, how are you going to clear the clog. Normally clog happened at the bend or corner of the pipe. If you can answer my question then, I will give you pass mark.

Agree with u. luckily there is no sink wast pass thru this waste pipe. Only afraid if in future the sh*t inside stuck at the bend, then it will be my major headache. any idea how to do control damage?
4. Question:

As in my previous post , advisable the gap is about 18 inches, the less is the better, cause plaster ceiling is heavy.

Plaster ceiling completed. too bad i nt find ur post earlier. huhu..
Thank you for ur guidance.

Bro Tomjason, this is the end result for the manhole


Reason why the contractor not built the manhole due to this perimeter drain (which i think they can built it up furhter. Hope that the new manhole near the bend could help me if the bend get clog in the future..

(THIS NEW MANHOLE WILL BE CONNECTED TO THE EXISTING MANHOLE)